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Old 11-03-2010, 05:06 PM   #21
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the STRC axle lockouts finally got here, they is real nice them is... shafts are visibly thicker (bit like me)..couple pics of shafts...top one is a MIP

the STRC shaft

the MIP shaft

not a lot of differance, but like I say, it's visible.
my homemade BTA set-up...



had to cut off the outer mounting off the knuckles to get a bit more turn. the mounting hardware are made from rivets. just knocked the rivet head off the stem which left me with almost 50mm of stem to cut a 3mm thread on. crushed the head in the vice for a small spanner to get hold of and bob's your uncle. filed down the heads as much as possible so the knuckles get as much throw as possible.


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Old 11-03-2010, 05:19 PM   #22
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and finally out on the rock pile..




this thing is the duck's nut's, it not only brings home the bacon, it cooks it as well!!!
The only things I have left to bitch about is the servo, but i have HITEC 7950 on it's way and those wheel/tire set-ups. It's goes places where the old stock set-up would have been pooing in it's pants. It's is so much more planted, the suspension is so much more predictable and smooth. I know it may have a bit more articulation than what is considered "enough", but I'm yet to bind it up or use all the travel.
I'm so glad I took the time to read up on link lengths, researched what others are doing with link location, shock set-up etc ect. All that pre-build work has paid off big time. I still gotta do some tuning, but for me, it's pretty close. It's not like I'll be comping or anything.
next project is to get into cutting and shutting tires...damn this obsession, brewing beer was so much easier.
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowlearner View Post
...damn this obsession, brewing beer was so much easier.
Lol.....brewing beer has taken a bit of a back seat for me as well.

Glad to see this complete....or is it
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:47 PM   #24
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I keep seeing all these fast back builds and its making me think I may need one to keep the ff-4 company.
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:47 PM   #25
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All i have left from my Mr. Beer is some expired yeast
Your rig looks great, im diggin those cool bomb proof skins
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:42 PM   #26
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oh who am I kidding!!!! beer will always be my friend I love it and it loves me, we were meant to be, in a completely non weird sort of way. I just need to learn to manage my time better so I can fit in both crawling and brewing....something else may have to give....hmmm family? or work? yeah that'd be better, bye bye work.

it's ALMOST done Juan, just a couple side panels then them fancy UGC stickers (which will be scuffed in the fist 5 minutes) then she will be done i thi.....oh no hang on, I REEEEAAALY need some new wheels, tires, some felsenfest weights, a new HH motor, a CC bec, a.....oh godDAMMIT
you're not helping MR.UGC always making such nice gear that I just have to have.
good thing the Aussie dollar is at parity with the US dollar, finally.
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Old 11-14-2010, 02:45 PM   #27
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the new servo landed last week, HITEC 7950. Finally got around to fitting it, found out the hard way it's not a good idea to test the huge amount of torque by putting my finger between the servo horn and a upper link....my 4yr old boy now knows some new phrases when he goes back to pre-school this week.
this servo is like another veil has been lifted; I've always known a good servo would be good, but it's not until you get to actually use one that you realise how crap those mg996 things are. The speed, and more importantly, the torque the HITEC has is amazing. Being able to turn a wheel that is drooped and stuck in between two big rocks and move those rocks is a thing of wonder.

The next problem to overcome is the steering set-up. All that torque WILL break something somewhere. The way I've cut out the link and the servo placement on the plate means I'm not getting all the knuckle / steering travel. Also, the longer pins I made from rivet stems with brass tube spacers are flexing, which is only gunna get worse.
I've started to think more of a OTA set-up than the BTA, I played with a rough OTA on the stock chassis before the FB arrived with a bit of success, might start mocking some links up from the aluminium filler rod and do a steering link from the 5mm titanium left over from making links.
I know I could just get a BTA kit from LPP or get a link from KC_JONES, but the tial and error of DIY fabbing is something I really enjoy. PLus, I got plenty of 3mm aluminium plate here at work doing nothing if the titanium does not work out for me.
Wheels, tires and motor are on the back-burner for now. Damn XMAS and all of it's associated costs. Desn't help that I get stood down over the xmas period with no pay
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:28 PM   #28
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all done....for immediate future.
my version of an OTA, used 5mm titanium rod


showing extent of steering travel

had to change screw type at front of C to a counter sunk head, lets the knuckle arm travel that liiiitttle bit further.

also finished the panels. The motor side was tedious, 3 tries to get the right coverage with bending around the motor. Still not 100% happy using the aluminium sides, they do tend to stick on rocks at the skid a bit. May swap to plastic sides yet....



that's it for now....until funds become available AFTER xmas. As it is now, it's to the point of being strong enough for how I drive it, it functions beyond where I am at with my driving skill and tuning abilities.
Mods for the future will include:
-CC bec(the torque of the 7950 @ 6v is plenty for now)
-better wheels, thinking MAYHEM double phattys
-a few sets of better tires; rovers, sedonas, also gunna have a go at
doing some with a mini-pin type cut-n-glue section.
-some FELSENFEST zero slop spools.
-I've been trying to avoid it, but seriously considering a DIG, just trying to
get my driving skills to the point where I drive things too easily.
really can't think of tto much more that is required that is a genuinely quantifiable modification. As in, it will make a noticeable differance.
As mods are made, posts will follow.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:29 PM   #29
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Slowlearner. Very cool FB and all but I have a beef with you.

What kindof men are we that you think you need to post what movie that quote came from in your signature block. If you start posting quotes from Fletch and assume we need help figuring it out I will personally come through this computer and do some butt kicking!!! So while we are at it; "Just when I thought you couldn't possibly be any dumber you go and do something like this... and totally redeem youself.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:54 PM   #30
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what can i say, it made me laugh so I put it there. When it don't make me laugh I'll take it off. Until it does get taken off, I would like to whole-heartedly apologise for this most heinous transgression that has upset you so. I did not realise it would cause such offence, it being such a big deal and all.
And don't complain about the new quote, you put the idea in my head......

Last edited by slowlearner; 11-22-2010 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:39 PM   #31
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nice steering set up. look like you can make you own stuff i would suggest some type of servo guard to protect that new servo you have. the link i made was simple but it will smash into a rock before my servo will.
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:27 AM   #32
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You gotta get rid of those stock tires. TCS has their Rovers on sale for 13.99 a pair! Can't beat it.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:10 AM   #33
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Hey man nice build. I just got a xr10 for trail class and i have a ff-4 ax10 that has been converted back to limited class i have a spare set of mayhem engineering comp double phattys and a DNA dig if your keen let me know best thing is i live in australia too cheers mate
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:23 PM   #34
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BUBBASKYJACKER-the servo guard is next job, I've got heaps of scrap 4mm alu angle that will do nicely
BRIAN3323- yes the stock lizards have the same grip level as teflon, the prolines are better but still not great. They were the best on offer at the LHS which is 4.5hrs drive away. One of the things that sux living in a rural area...
MINT355- ah ALIC SPRINGS, I remember those few years of my youth well.....tell me, is it still hot from the 1st jan thru to 31st dec; all year round?
PM me what you're thinking with the wheels and dig and I'll see if it's a safe option to slip it past the ministry of war & finance....
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:09 PM   #35
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had it out on my rock pile on weekend, ripped a lower link out of a rod end....epoxy'd it back in, good to go...for now..
changed the springs over to HR golds to see what that'll do, fair bit softer. dunno if I like. It seems to allow the shocks to fully compress way too easily. Also a bit too prone to tipping sideways when pushed too far. The LOSI whites didn't seem to have so much of this problem. Looks like I gotta learn to tune now.
got some JCONCEPT rocx on their way plus some JCONCEPTS truggy tires to have a crack at cutting and gluing. I have read the rocx are a small tire, hoping I can get a bit more diameter stretching the sidewall when gluing. They were cheap for my first go at modding tires.
The side panels are going going gone. They tend to stick to the rocks too much. Got some thin ABS, PVC, DELRIN sheet at work that is begging to be cut up. For the side panels more interested in function than appearances.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:00 AM   #36
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been a while...
got the JCONCEPT tires, them is not too bad, compared to the PROLINE hammers...not much for a starting point i know... bit bigger diameter helps, better grip levels, better foam. makes me wonder what something good like rovers with good foams would do....one day.
also got the new wheels, decided to do the cheap thing...AGAIN
these are them

my advice to those considering these, DON'T. Be quicker and less frustrating to just wipe your bum with a $100 note. Looked good at first look, but on closer inspection when fitting, the machining not great, had to bore them out to get them on the hexes, the hexes themselves had to be modified, them the rodends were fouling on the inner ring bolts, new inner rings cut out of ABS plastic which was thinner, the holes countersunk to get the bolts away from the rodends, all good for now. Yet to give them go tho. they seem to work ok while rig sitting on a stand with throttle at full go, weights swing a bit then settle.
Also got some cheap 1000mah lipos, the 3200mah was good but too big and was a PITA to discharge after having fun for a while then heading home. Too much capacity was a waste. Re-did the servo / 4-link plate as well, the servo now on right side and plate trimmed in such a way as to allow full steering lock with no fouling.
Put the HR gold springs on, too soft for mine, gunna go back to the LOSI whites. seems to pretzle a bit quicker, the whites seemed to allow the rig side hill better too,
Would love to get some BAM wheels soon, but for now, this is it. maybe more when Xmas fund hurt is over, like june/july.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:11 PM   #37
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Hi, Useful thread for me this as I'm about to move my AX10 chassis away rom stock and trying to decide which way to go. Don't like the Axial Bender, Too much weight up top on an Edge (like it though), not enough room in an Eclipse, so the UGC is on a very short list!
I wondered how much room you found inside it. I'm running a stock tranny, Novak 55 and a DNA Dig with full size servo. Drives are 3Racing - uing std up front and their shortened one from the DNA. Electrics I have on the front upper links - Rooster Esc and Spektrum. I'l run the lipo up front.

Could you, or anyone else advise whether there' room inside for the DNA? I'd like to continue with the 3Racing shaft if possible.

Also, did you have to make up a full set of new links?

And finally, How do I buy one?!! - Is there a UGC website?

Thanks
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:41 PM   #38
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Dasher.
thanx mate, when i did (and still do)my research on what is next to do, threads with good pics and good descriptive "narrative" are what I look for to better inform me, so I thought it best to do the same in case someone else might able to use what I've posted to their benefit.
You're gunna hate this, but UGC closed up shop a while ago unfortunatly.
Juan did, and probably still does, some nice gear.
I was and still am amazed at what this chassis will do compared to the stock chassis set-up, it's a great little jigger. From what I can remember, the FROGGER sold by KC JONES thru the vendor section on this site is also a good comparable chassis. $$ looks good too, $35 usd ithink from memory. only down i cab see is no delrin skid, but no biggy, I'd still buy one if I was in the market for a new chassis.

room in the chassis was a bit of a thing for me, was used to more room with the stock set-up. Was more about where to locate electrics, ended up putting esc and rx on lexan plate above and behind tranny, stays hidden and out of the way. BEC went under front hood. Making sure all the wiring was neat and tidy was also a bit of a chore, but well worth it.
I'm starting to look into a dig myself, it's looking like the VP hurtz is gunna get the nod due to size and good reveiws from various sources. I searched and looked at what other Fastback owners are using, mostly due to space constraints.That'll mean re-locating the electrics to various points, but no biggy.
As I posted early on, the stock tranny / motor plate had to be cut back to minimize how much stuck out the side. Mirroring the tranny (running it around the other way so spur faces back) did reduce torque twist greatly, i still have some tuning to get rid of the rest.

I did make all my own links out of titanium rod I got in from Isreal for about $20 from memory. I'm guessing Australia Post pooped their pants when they saw the "arabic" writing on the package. Bet it went the xray machine a few times....
Can't remember what size it was exactly, you'd have to go thru the older posts to see. In hindsight, I should have cut the threads at 4mm the accomodate the bigger TRAXXAS rod-ends, I thought when I got mine they were the 4mm ones, but nooooo, the had to be 3mm. Already snapped a couple rod-ends. I still got more rod, so I may just do some more links one day.
I went with Ti for a few reasons, strength obviously in case I ever wanted to get a dig, and Ti being a harder metal then Aluminium I reasoned it would slide over the rocks better, which it does. The Al links being a softer metal doesn't slide as well, plus, even after having bashed the crap out of them, no rock-rash.
Lengths, you'd have to go back to earlier posts to check that. Link length will vary with which chassis you get, but do your research and make links once.


On a more general note, I'm getting set to do a re-build soon. Haven't done one since before the stock set-up became the FB. It's getting loose and tired in places. Should the tranny be twisting off the skid plate when under throttle?? Probably a sign that
Gunna try and coincide a few new goodies with the re-build, so it comes out a different rig. Hoping to order BAM wheels this week, and the VP dig next pay cycle. Got some VENOM 1/8th buggy tires on the weekend on sale at LHS $10 pair, they're small diameter, about the same as PROLINE Hammers. Gunna cut them into sections and try to get them out to 5.5 /5.75 inches using the PROLINE Hammers as donor beads I have sitting around doing nothing.
Been trying to work out what glue to use for this job. Would love to get some IC2000 rubberized CA that I see others using, but do you think I can get it in from the US? Finding a council worker with a good work ethic is easier than that. Also see others using LOCTITE 402, but also hard to get out here in the country.Gunna do some experimenting with the off-cuts of the Rock-Lizards, using thick 1) thick CA, 2)shoe specific rubber contact adhesive with latex swimming cap bits as a backing peice to hold the two pieces of rubber together. Thinking the latex on the inside of the tire will still be pliable but add strength and support to the joint. Will post reults as they happen.
That'll be it for new gear then for, oooh I don't know, the next 18years or so. 2nd kid due to be born in about 8weeks, so funds (and sleep) will be a distant fuzzy memory. I've been trting to build for strength first and performance a very close second ever since I got into this, so hopefully I can back off on the throttle and conserve it some.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:05 AM   #39
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Thanks for this -it's what I needed. Shame about UGC - just when I thought a decision had been made. I'll take a look at the Frogger with view to making up my own skid. Failing that it's an Edge which is a massive compromise, but in the UK I'm only competing with myself when it comes to Shaftys as nigh on everyone else is on MOA (I'm only competing with myself anyway)! - At least everything fits inside the Edge! I was thinking Delrin links with 4mm Traxxas ends, Bit more thinking to do now!

Good luck with the next few weeks!
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:35 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasher View Post
Hi, Useful thread for me this as I'm about to move my AX10 chassis away rom stock and trying to decide which way to go. Don't like the Axial Bender, Too much weight up top on an Edge (like it though), not enough room in an Eclipse, so the UGC is on a very short list!
I wondered how much room you found inside it. I'm running a stock tranny, Novak 55 and a DNA Dig with full size servo. Drives are 3Racing - uing std up front and their shortened one from the DNA. Electrics I have on the front upper links - Rooster Esc and Spektrum. I'l run the lipo up front.

Could you, or anyone else advise whether there' room inside for the DNA? I'd like to continue with the 3Racing shaft if possible.

Also, did you have to make up a full set of new links?

And finally, How do I buy one?!! - Is there a UGC website?


Thanks
Dasher,
If you keep an eye out in the classifieds, you might see a FB pop up every now and then. You'll need to get your post count up or buy a star before you can view them. I run a DNA dig in my FB, space is at a premium by design, its what allowed Juan to keep it ad narrow as it is. I had to take material off of the rear of the dig to clear the rear link, as well as a little off the rear left side to clear the chassis. There's tons of material to remove from, it doesn't effect the dig in any way. I have heard the VP dig fits with no mods, but what fun would that be?! I would suggest getting a mini servo to keep the weight and COG down low. Follow builds such as this one, and you'll learn all kinds of tricks.

Slowlearner,
Great build keep up the good work! Get the dig and you'll never look back, its opens up so many new lines. With the crap ass MG995 I have, the dig is often the saving grace.
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