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Thread: Why is my steering so lousy

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Old 10-30-2010, 04:26 PM   #1
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Default Why is my steering so lousy

If I turn the tires by hand the servo moves and the tires turn until the knuckes hit the axle screws and the tires hit the shocks. if I let the servo do the work it only goes about 2/3 of the way to lock.
Everything on the axles is stock.

Is this a sign of a nearly dead servo, or is the stock servo just that junky?
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Old 10-30-2010, 04:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
If I turn the tires by hand the servo moves and the tires turn until the knuckes hit the axle screws and the tires hit the shocks. if I let the servo do the work it only goes about 2/3 of the way to lock.
Everything on the axles is stock.

Is this a sign of a nearly dead servo, or is the stock servo just that junky?

A little of both. Do yourself a favor and upgrade to a hitec 7950 If you can afford it. Those 645's don't last very long or have enough nuts to handle the 2.2 tires for long. I even wore out a 645 on my MRC with 1.9 tires on it. They are good and cheap, but a 7950 is a more permanant fix.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:19 PM   #3
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Just as a side note, controllers nowadays are programmable. I have my crawler's preset set to 120* steering throw, and this can also increase the throw you get with an existing servo.

But PHILLBILLY is right, and that extra throw does you no good if your existing servo is going out or a lower quality. Get the new server, then check your controller settings and see if you can get more.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:34 PM   #4
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I have the stock am radio gear and esc. I don't think it has any adjustability.

Last edited by Mud Puppy; 10-30-2010 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 10-30-2010, 07:39 PM   #5
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Ahhh. You should probably put a nice 2.4ghz system high on your to get list. First of all, as you gathered, they are more flexable and programmable, and most work with a minimum of 10 different receivers/vehicles. That way, if you bought 3 RTR trucks, you don't have to sort out what goes with what, and you have poorer reception, even if it's an FM system. You just buy a new receiver to put in each new vehicle, and it works with the radio (needs to be synched...it's not just majic, but it's no big deal).

I bought mine used a couple years ago, so not sure what the current hot thing is or their price/availability used. Get recommendations from others here, as mine I think is relatively rare these days, a JR R-1.

Seriously, DON'T SKIMP ON THE RADIO! Do your research to make sure it has the features you need/want. You'll use the radio for several years so a $200 controller system doesn't sound so bad that way.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:33 PM   #6
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I can't agree more on a 2.4 radio. Besides the lack of crystals "ANYONE ON CHANNEL 3" and all that mess that can happen [to anyone] is the much faster response times. I remember crawling AM and it was very laggy using the same equipment vs. 2.4. Plus the lack of antenna's on both the RX and the TX is a huge benefit.

I picked up a Futaba 2PL (2-channel) for $100 or so on Tower, they also make one I think for crawling with 3 channels. I am a fan of Futaba only because I have one of their OLD radios (analog meter) for my airplanes and at who knows how old its still rock solid and steady
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:08 PM   #7
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If you have a pure stock RTC, which is what it sounds like, I would start by upgrading some of the axle components. Get some good knuckles like VP's, some good aluminum C hubs, and ditch the stock plastic steering tie rod and drag link. You probably have the plastic servo saver as well. Get a real servo horn like a racer's edge. That will improve your steering quite a bit. Then once you have upgraded these components you will be more ready for something like a 7950. That servo would probably rip your plastic drag link right off the knuckles if you got into even a slight bind.

Once you start to spend money on something like a Hiteck 7950 ($150 servo) it gets real expensive real fast. In order to program your servo you will need to up grade the radio for sure. But you will want to get a new speed controller, lipo batteries, battery charger, bec, and some CVD's. Before you know it you will have spend $600 or $700.

Welcome to your new Addiction
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:09 PM   #8
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trying to keep the crawler relatively cheap, so spending a lot of $$ on electronics is not in the cards right now.
I've got a traxxas speed controler that will go in just because it is waterproof, and if I need a servo it has to be under $75.

I do need to do something with the steering, since there is a lot of slop even beyond what the plastic tie-rod creates.

I don't think I have a servo-saver come to think of it. I bought the truck used, so I'm still in the process of figuring out what minor things have been changed.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
If I turn the tires by hand the servo moves and the tires turn until the knuckes hit the axle screws and the tires hit the shocks. if I let the servo do the work it only goes about 2/3 of the way to lock.
Everything on the axles is stock.

Is this a sign of a nearly dead servo, or is the stock servo just that junky?
New radio, play, break servo, get new servo, play again, & have fun!

By that time the addiction will be full blown.
I bought a hitec7955tg. My first cool servo, & man is it nice, you can hear it thinking... How much weight wraps do ya have in your front wheels?
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:07 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by cornsnake View Post
How much weight wraps do ya have in your front wheels?
Not much. I knew the truck was "well used" when I got it, so I only put six of the stick-on wheel weights in each front wheel and three in each rear. Didn't want to stress the motor and servo.

I think everything is original except the body, tires, and springs.



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Old 10-31-2010, 08:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
Not much. I knew the truck was "well used" when I got it, so I only put six of the stick-on wheel weights in each front wheel and three in each rear. Didn't want to stress the motor and servo.

I think everything is original except the body, tires, and springs.



The body looks very cool11
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:57 AM   #12
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The body looks very cool11
Thanks. I hate having a rig that looks like every other truck out there so I chopped up that HPI body to fit.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:22 AM   #13
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If you are on a tight budget, look into a Hitec 645MG servo. It's only about $40. Not the best servo of choice, but I think it's the best balance of performance to price for those on a real tight budget.

Then spend about $8 more for a Losi (or comparable) aluminum servo horn to replace your existing servo saver or plastic horn.

Whenever looking to make improvements, try to remember to post the budget you have to work with. And again, finding a good used 2.4 system I would still recommend as an important item to start researching now, even if you can't afford it now.

Best 'o luck!
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:53 AM   #14
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If you're looking for more steering throw it won't happen with the stock radio. That radio doesn't allow full steering no matter what servo you use. If your on a budget a new radio will give you full steering. Then you can upgrade your servo ( don't forget to use an external bec to get full power to the servo).
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:00 PM   #15
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You gotta get rid of the plastic parts on that front axle first. If you don't get some decent knuckels, C hubs and steering links your $ will be wasted on a better servo.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:19 PM   #16
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I run dual 7954 servos on my 4 steer rig. They have a ton of torque, and are greatly priced. They are, IMHO, one of the best value servos out there.

Check out this thread for my steering setups.....

Frogger's BAD COP twin!
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:50 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by brian3323 View Post
You gotta get rid of the plastic parts on that front axle first. If you don't get some decent knuckels, C hubs and steering links your $ will be wasted on a better servo.
I noticed that I have a ton of slop, and it seems to be more at the wheels than in the plastic link. Won't the flex of the plastic link help reduce servo damage?
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
I noticed that I have a ton of slop, and it seems to be more at the wheels than in the plastic link. Won't the flex of the plastic link help reduce servo damage?
It might help save your servo, but if you want to build a competitive rig you need to get a better servo anyways. In my opinion if you go out and get a high torque servo now with plastic steering components and the stock radio, you wont get much out of the new servo. I would get these cheaper upgrades out of the way first. Get some aluminum knuckles (I like vanquish), then some aluminum c hubs (axial workable c's are probably the most popular. Then I would get some cvd axles. Once you do all that and get a new radio then it will be time to start throwing some $ at electronics. And you will see quite a bit of improvement in your steering once you get rid of all the plastic. If you don't upgrade that stuff you will be replacing it pretty quick after it all breaks anyways.
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:41 PM   #19
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Thanks guys.

My plan:
saddle pack batteries
carbon fiber chassis
aluminum hubs and knuckles
aluminum links with traxxas ends
aluminum steering
better radio gear
gunner beef toobes
high torque motor
high torque servo

Didn't I say I was keeping this as a simple build?
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
Thanks guys.

My plan:
saddle pack batteries
carbon fiber chassis
aluminum hubs and knuckles
aluminum links with traxxas ends
aluminum steering
better radio gear
gunner beef toobes
high torque motor
high torque servo

Didn't I say I was keeping this as a simple build?
What chassis?

plus don't waist your money on aluminum links. Get some delrin and make your own.
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