RCCrawler Forums

DickyT · 12-02-2010, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shizzz

How did u meet her? That's another side of the planet

She went to college in Miami

shizzz · 12-02-2010, 02:14 PM

So that was she who did find the crawler addicted person on the other side, huh

))
BTW any ideas on get lost of that torque issue?

DickyT · 12-02-2010, 02:18 PM

Here was my torque twist solution, worked fantastic for me!

1) underdrive rear gears

2) thicker oil in left rear shock, I used 60wt in left rear, 45 or 40 wt in right rear.

3) upper rear links equal length to lowers, mounted to the top of plate using the servo mount holes (before D mount)

My fastback had zero visible twist unless in a very hard bind.

shizzz · 12-02-2010, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DickyT

....1) underdrive rear gears...

What exactly does that mean? Probably a pretty stupid Q lol

Thnx

PS Oh, i probably got the idea, but how many teeth should i use on those sprockets or spurs or whatever u call them in the rear axle to go underdrive?
Thnx

JeremyH · 12-02-2010, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shizzz

What exactly does that mean? Probably a pretty stupid Q lol

Thnx

PS Oh, i probably got the idea, but how many teeth should i use on those sprockets or spurs or whatever u call them in the rear axle to go underdrive?
Thnx

Dicky is referring to these gears:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWTE4&P=7

JustinThyme · 12-02-2010, 06:37 PM

I think it's typically only a one tooth difference between front and rear.

You made a great choice in getting a Fastback!

- Lose the battery on the back axel, it's offsetting your CG too far aft.
- Add weight to front wheels if you haven't already.
- Move all electronics as far forward as you can.
- Get a battery/servo tray for the front, and use small airplane receiver LiPo battery packs which will fit on the tray.
- You already 4 linked the rear. Search here for ways to 4 link the front.

Here's my setup for front 4 link:

Custom plastic mount using a mounting hole drilled into the battery/servo tray.

Tanis · 12-02-2010, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH

He said:
DRIVE SHAFT ANGLE U NEED TO MAKE THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT AS STRAIGHT AS POSS IF NOT IT WILL CAUSE THE TWIST YOUR FIGHTING.

Weird, I didn't know driveshaft angle affected TT, I'm such a newb

Shizzz, 4link the truck and keep the links closer at the chassis than axle, lower center of gravity, get as much weight off the chassis as possible, add weight to front tires. This will be a start.

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 02:17 AM

Thnx DT and everybody for advices

I think, i'm the only in that country who has that kind of truck

except of my fren, with the same ax10 and anothe fren waiting for his Losi.
Working on 4linking right now. Will probably make smth similar to Juan's D-mounts. I plan to keep the upper links as close as possible to the lowers. How the rig will react on that? Can't try it yet - the wheels are under construction. Not sure for the front yet, coz i install axial bta soon, probably will have to figure out a new front plate

Back to undergear. Will it be ok to use stock in front and 43/13 in rear? I dunno how that'll help to eliminate torque, but i guess it will help climbing without wheelling on a very steep climbs. am i right?

DickyT · 12-03-2010, 06:08 AM

43/13 in rear and stock up front is what I ran all year

When you say you plan to keep the uppers as close as possible to the lowers, what do you mean? In length or chassis connection angle?

The fronts do not need to be equal length. They will usually be shorter depending on front plate design. The rears are good to have equal length.

You do not want the at the same angle as the lowers though. you want the lowers closer at the chassis, wide on the axle and the uppers wide on the chassis and closer at the axle so you get good link triangulation.

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 07:14 AM

Ok, here we are again.
Today i was making rear 4link. As i mentionned above i would like to make a d-mount, but, unfortunately i found out i couldn't coz of materials.

So, what do we have here for now:
1. Removed and rewired that big fat annoying disaster called NIMH batt

2. Relocated the batt plate in front and put the zhonguo servo.

3. Upper links assembled

4. 4-link plate done and mounted
5. Everything is put together for the look up.

And here is the glitch

the shocks are clinging onto the links,
so measures were taken. The plate was also trimmed a bit

Looks, like even that castor thing is more or less okie

Have to be completed: plates to be painted, steering links to be assembled, notes from u guys heard and changes according to that to be made.
DT, guys, comments, pls

JeremyH · 12-03-2010, 07:23 AM

If you can, inboard your lower links at the chassis.....like Dicky shows above.

DickyT · 12-03-2010, 07:24 AM

Shocks hitting links? can you provide a picture please?

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 09:18 AM

In fact, that was link hitting the spring.
As u can see from the pic below, with the current setup (marked with green circle) it was hitting the spring at the place marked with red one.
So i moved the shock outside of the mounts to avoid this hits in future

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH

If you can, inboard your lower links at the chassis.....like Dicky shows above.

I did think on it. I have three things stopping me right now

I have a new alu skidplate on the way with inboard mounts. I have one more thing on the way thank's to Juan

And i want to keep stock details unchainged, coz, as i said earlier, we don't have too much choice here. So, just in case i need it i'll have the stock one.

DickyT · 12-03-2010, 09:33 AM

I was not seeing the pictures, darn work firewall was not letting them show, now I see them all

. I thought you had mimicked the Fastback more, not just the topper on a stock chassis.

Most of what I mentioned was thinking you had a narrower chassis that had proper triangulation designed into it. With the stock chassis you are on the right track

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 09:49 AM

The only thing i could do wa the top of FB.
Have no enough instruments and equipment in my workshop. So, i use, the stuff i can get without any pain.

Just finished making steer links, looks much better than stock

shizzz · 12-03-2010, 01:29 PM

btw, i wonder what kind of oil in the shock?
can i use, for example, a fork oil?

shizzz · 12-07-2010, 07:14 AM

Some updates

found out the way to install shocks so that they don't rub the links. Just put them outside.

Upgraded the front 3-link using the axial kit

Finished the steering things, changed the horn to aluminium one.

And now we look like that:

Now the questions

I will continue using my stock shocks unless they say the last goodbye. I have a possibility to get the oil for them next week and get inside to look around.
The choice of visc rate i have: 60, 40, 20.
What should i choose, regarding that i use TOTALLY stock shocks?
Thnx

DickyT · 12-07-2010, 07:20 AM

60 in the left rear, 40 in the rest with the choices you have available is what I would run depending on how much weight do you have in the wheels.

20 will give you a very floppy rig.

shizzz · 12-07-2010, 09:26 AM

Another dumb question
will rooster crawler esc help somehow to improve the performance? Will it work with stock transmitters receivers?
Thnaks

12-03-2010, 06:08 AM	#29
DickyT I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh Posts: 5,181	43/13 in rear and stock up front is what I ran all year When you say you plan to keep the uppers as close as possible to the lowers, what do you mean? In length or chassis connection angle? The fronts do not need to be equal length. They will usually be shorter depending on front plate design. The rears are good to have equal length. You do not want the at the same angle as the lowers though. you want the lowers closer at the chassis, wide on the axle and the uppers wide on the chassis and closer at the axle so you get good link triangulation. Last edited by DickyT; 12-03-2010 at 07:56 AM.

12-02-2010, 02:14 PM	#22
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	So that was she who did find the crawler addicted person on the other side, huh )) BTW any ideas on get lost of that torque issue?

12-02-2010, 02:18 PM	#23
DickyT I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh Posts: 5,181	Here was my torque twist solution, worked fantastic for me! 1) underdrive rear gears 2) thicker oil in left rear shock, I used 60wt in left rear, 45 or 40 wt in right rear. 3) upper rear links equal length to lowers, mounted to the top of plate using the servo mount holes (before D mount) My fastback had zero visible twist unless in a very hard bind.

12-02-2010, 06:37 PM	#26
JustinThyme Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney Posts: 344	I think it's typically only a one tooth difference between front and rear. You made a great choice in getting a Fastback! - Lose the battery on the back axel, it's offsetting your CG too far aft. - Add weight to front wheels if you haven't already. - Move all electronics as far forward as you can. - Get a battery/servo tray for the front, and use small airplane receiver LiPo battery packs which will fit on the tray. - You already 4 linked the rear. Search here for ways to 4 link the front. Here's my setup for front 4 link: Custom plastic mount using a mounting hole drilled into the battery/servo tray.

12-03-2010, 02:17 AM	#28
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	Thnx DT and everybody for advices I think, i'm the only in that country who has that kind of truck except of my fren, with the same ax10 and anothe fren waiting for his Losi. Working on 4linking right now. Will probably make smth similar to Juan's D-mounts. I plan to keep the upper links as close as possible to the lowers. How the rig will react on that? Can't try it yet - the wheels are under construction. Not sure for the front yet, coz i install axial bta soon, probably will have to figure out a new front plate Back to undergear. Will it be ok to use stock in front and 43/13 in rear? I dunno how that'll help to eliminate torque, but i guess it will help climbing without wheelling on a very steep climbs. am i right?

12-03-2010, 07:14 AM	#30
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	Ok, here we are again. Today i was making rear 4link. As i mentionned above i would like to make a d-mount, but, unfortunately i found out i couldn't coz of materials. So, what do we have here for now: 1. Removed and rewired that big fat annoying disaster called NIMH batt 2. Relocated the batt plate in front and put the zhonguo servo. 3. Upper links assembled 4. 4-link plate done and mounted 5. Everything is put together for the look up. And here is the glitch the shocks are clinging onto the links, so measures were taken. The plate was also trimmed a bit Looks, like even that castor thing is more or less okie Have to be completed: plates to be painted, steering links to be assembled, notes from u guys heard and changes according to that to be made. DT, guys, comments, pls

12-03-2010, 07:23 AM	#31
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	If you can, inboard your lower links at the chassis.....like Dicky shows above.

12-03-2010, 07:24 AM	#32
DickyT I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh Posts: 5,181	Shocks hitting links? can you provide a picture please?

12-03-2010, 09:18 AM	#33
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	In fact, that was link hitting the spring. As u can see from the pic below, with the current setup (marked with green circle) it was hitting the spring at the place marked with red one. So i moved the shock outside of the mounts to avoid this hits in future

12-03-2010, 09:33 AM	#35
DickyT I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh Posts: 5,181	I was not seeing the pictures, darn work firewall was not letting them show, now I see them all . I thought you had mimicked the Fastback more, not just the topper on a stock chassis. Most of what I mentioned was thinking you had a narrower chassis that had proper triangulation designed into it. With the stock chassis you are on the right track

12-03-2010, 09:49 AM	#36
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	The only thing i could do wa the top of FB. Have no enough instruments and equipment in my workshop. So, i use, the stuff i can get without any pain. Just finished making steer links, looks much better than stock

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12-03-2010, 01:29 PM	#37
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	btw, i wonder what kind of oil in the shock? can i use, for example, a fork oil?

12-07-2010, 07:14 AM	#38
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	Some updates found out the way to install shocks so that they don't rub the links. Just put them outside. Upgraded the front 3-link using the axial kit Finished the steering things, changed the horn to aluminium one. And now we look like that: Now the questions I will continue using my stock shocks unless they say the last goodbye. I have a possibility to get the oil for them next week and get inside to look around. The choice of visc rate i have: 60, 40, 20. What should i choose, regarding that i use TOTALLY stock shocks? Thnx

12-07-2010, 07:20 AM	#39
DickyT I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh Posts: 5,181	60 in the left rear, 40 in the rest with the choices you have available is what I would run depending on how much weight do you have in the wheels. 20 will give you a very floppy rig.

12-07-2010, 09:26 AM	#40
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	Another dumb question will rooster crawler esc help somehow to improve the performance? Will it work with stock transmitters receivers? Thnaks

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