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Thread: Sixteen Horsepower's AX-8 Buggy

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Old 12-04-2010, 02:41 PM   #1
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Default Sixteen Horsepower's AX-8 Buggy

Update on page 3. Skip all this boring stuff.

The spirit of this build is just to see if i can stretch my Scorpion to a 16" WB and run a tall, skinny tire/wheel at low speed and still crawl worth half a damn. Maybe it's just a natural progression towards wanting to build a super. Main thing is that tinkering and this site are a lot of fun.

i'll throw up pics as i can, but wanted to start by saying thanks to RCCrawler, Axial, TCS, RPP, Vanquish, Traxxas, RCBros, McMaster-Carr, Proline, RC4WD, Wantasummit, Hobby Proz (Albuquerque) and others as i think of 'em.





i guess i'll start with the tires and wheels and then post up as i can. The more comments or ?'s the better. Thanks

i started with this.



Changed it to this.



And even messed around with some proline 17mm hubs for these 3.2's. It was fun for a day, but would snap stub axle pins.



Wanted to try these.









Low budget way to make a 24mm wheel fit a 23mm hub.







Gotta get back to work, will post some more later.

Last edited by 16hp; 09-29-2011 at 07:41 AM. Reason: update
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:43 PM   #2
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interesting. I really like that wheel tire comb it looks bad a$$
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:42 AM   #3
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The stock 12mm aluminum hexes are nice, but the raised part on the outside did not fit jamb-up inside the RC4WD adapters. i was going to just file them down, but found these at TCS. They are narrow, flat and serrated.



i was using the AS-2 servo for the VP dig, which worked just fine, but while it was apart, i put in a mini bracket,Hitec 225 and Losi 13t pinon. i have a Robinson 90t spur if i need it, but don't know if it even fits next to the drive shaft yoke.





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Old 12-05-2010, 09:02 AM   #4
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This is the material i got from McMaster-Carr and decided to try the 1/2" PVC rod for the lower links. i had'nt seen PVC used before and gave it a shot. It cut, tapped and bent just fine.















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Old 12-05-2010, 09:07 AM   #5
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After a lot of reading on this site, i used Revo ends and 8/32 set screws from RCbros. My chamfering job kind-a sucks. i just used a disc sander.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:08 AM   #6
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really cool, should be interesting, I can't wait to see it with those wheels and tires mounted, good work so far!
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Old 12-05-2010, 10:20 AM   #7
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Forgot to mention the upper links are 5/16 delrin from RCbros. i can already see a possible need for some Beef Toobs and AL c's.

i bought an RC4WD punisher shaft from TCS, but turned out it was just a stock length.

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/images/P/...ft_ax10_pi.jpg

i kind of wanted to do a maxx shaft conversion, but for now i just robbed the stock shafts of of my Honcho and made these. i can use the punisher shaft on the honcho. i need to use it to halfway justify the cost...jeez.







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Old 12-05-2010, 10:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fred0000 View Post
really cool, should be interesting, I can't wait to see it with those wheels and tires mounted, good work so far!
Thanks fred. i always spend too much time "contiplating" your avatar. i searched and read a lot on the superclass and large scale board and would love to try a cut and shut someday, but came across these Baja front wheels and Bowtie's. They are just the size i was looking for. They will probably need some modding, like remove the foams completely or star cut them like crazy. Or just leave'em, what the hay.

Last edited by 16hp; 12-05-2010 at 10:28 AM. Reason: sp
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:18 PM   #9
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You're going to destroy that driveshaft the first time you even think about putting it in a bind. At the very lease you should get some Traxxas shafts/Axial rings...personally I'd look into Maxx shafts. Easy to do and much stronger.
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #10
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If you put 8-32 all thread through the male part of the drive shaft it will resist twisting. Drive shaft rings are going to be a must.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
You're going to destroy that driveshaft the first time you even think about putting it in a bind. At the very lease you should get some Traxxas shafts/Axial rings...personally I'd look into Maxx shafts. Easy to do and much stronger.
Will the Traxxas shafts fit right onto the Axial steel yokes? i had read that they are the exact same. i will definately consider the max shafts, but am still working out the details like 1. will have to mill down the plastic yoke to clear the spur, and 2. reading up on if the maxx yokes are 5 or 6mm and how to center them on the input & output shafts.

Quote:
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If you put 8-32 all thread through the male part of the drive shaft it will resist twisting. Drive shaft rings are going to be a must.
Never thought of that. The hole in the male part looks just right for all-thread. It seems like when i was looking for the rings, everyone was out of stock, but will look again.

This is great, thanks for the feedback.

On to the dampers. i could more or less make the front dampers work with link mounts drilled out to fit onto a Revo end (i think it was like a 9/32 bit), but the rear needed a chassis extension.



i was kind of wanting a chassy forward and the skid angled down, like i had seen on the super board, and when i put it together, that's how it sat. i was suprised.











This is my fav. pic so far.

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Old 12-05-2010, 01:32 PM   #12
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Yes, the shafts fit on the Axial yokes. 1951 is the # IIRC...

The Maxx yokes just barely clear a 87t spur. Mine had a slight wobble and there was some interferance, but after several runs the spur cut a groove in the yoke and all was well.

Old style Tmaxx yokes were 5mm, all the new ones are 6mm. Either way it doesn't matter too much, you'll want to drill them out to hold the Axial yoke. If you haven't read the "maxx shafts made easy" thread, find it and do so.

Also, those rear extensions are going to fold over on the first good hit. I tried using similar material on my super...didn't work well.
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:08 PM   #13
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Oh i'm sure shits gonna break and bend. When it does, i'll read some more and make it MO'BETTA!
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:22 PM   #14
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:33 PM   #15
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That actually looks pretty badass.

If I were you, I'd be getting some aluminum C's and knuckles ASAP.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:38 PM   #16
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With original body.



i'm gonna use this body for now-electronics already inside.















i might remove the stinger and some of the front part of this body right above the servo and battery. Not sure yet. Still needs a shakedown run.

Thanks for look'in. i'll post some poser pics later.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
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That actually looks pretty badass.

If I were you, I'd be getting some aluminum C's and knuckles ASAP.

Thank you.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:49 PM   #18
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Picture flipped now.

Next to my Honcho.

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Old 12-05-2010, 08:50 PM   #19
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It'll be interesting to see how those low profile tires do. You've got the foams in them I assume...
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:53 PM   #20
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