RCCrawler Forums

armycrawler101st · 11-29-2010, 04:09 PM

Anyone have any free to cheap mods I can do to lower my COG and fix my drive-shaft? My front drive-shaft hangs below the links and catches on stuff when I go over them. I have both the front and rear 4 linked too.

Over-all shot.

As you see on the left side, the drive-shaft hangs down under the links, it doesn't look so bad in the pic, but it makes a terrible difference!!!

GRIMGREG · 11-29-2010, 04:29 PM

Have you tried using the straight lower links in front? Maybe flipping the bent ones backwards would match the driveline angle better?

Could make a custom diff/pinion skid plate.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-29-2010, 04:37 PM

Read the stickies at the top of the page...there is lots to learn there.

Tanis · 11-29-2010, 04:44 PM

I wouldn't sweat it, I roll my front pinion down to gain caster, driveshaft rubs the rocks, never got stuck from it

Since the driveshaft is spinning, it's pretty tough to get hung up by it.

dickwart · 11-29-2010, 04:48 PM

X2 on straight links up front, and what Tanis said... That MIP is metal, BEAT ON IT!

armycrawler101st · 11-29-2010, 05:10 PM

What about my COG? I seem to roll over easily lol

dickwart · 11-29-2010, 05:11 PM

Out board your shocks on the chassis and the axle...

bob1961 · 11-29-2010, 05:32 PM

i run straight links on my tigress and never have troubles on the rocks.......bob

....

wurster · 11-29-2010, 05:55 PM

Move the bat down to the front ax.you will have to run sad packs or a lipo .I run a 2 or 3 s ont the frount axel and it helps

Highlucks · 11-29-2010, 05:55 PM

Looks like you are still running your battery on the stock battery plate. Get yourself a cheap saddle pack or lipo so that you can mount it on the front axle. Also limit your shock travel so that you only have around 5-6" of articulation with the other 3 tyres resting on the ground.
HTH.

Chris_The_Battery_Man · 11-29-2010, 05:57 PM

Your link geometry and shocks are probably alot to do with you rolling. The stock chassis, links, and shocks limit performance. I would recommend the GC3A chassis and Traxxas big bore shocks for ultimate performance. I know that is not "Cheap or Free" but worth the $$ for sure

What are you running for a battery, charger, and ESC?

armycrawler101st · 11-29-2010, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris_The_Battery_Man

Your link geometry and shocks are probably alot to do with you rolling. The stock chassis, links, and shocks limit performance. I would recommend the GC3A chassis and Traxxas big bore shocks for ultimate performance. I know that is not "Cheap or Free" but worth the $$ for sure

What are you running for a battery, charger, and ESC?

I'm still using a nimh but already plan to change, and i'm using a sidewinder 1/10th for esc

Chris_The_Battery_Man · 11-29-2010, 06:25 PM

I would consider using a small lipo then, and you will be much happier

Aggie01 · 11-29-2010, 09:08 PM

If you lengthen your front upper links, that will clock your axles and move your drive shaft up out of the way. You will want to get a better chassis some time, but that is a cheap - free fix for your problem for now. I would hold out for the T1E chassis coming out for the AX-10.

You can experiment with adding different sizes of spacers between your rod ends and the link rods. You want the pinion to point upwards towards the tranny. This also staightens out your drive shaft, which puts less strain on it.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-29-2010, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brian3323

If you lengthen your front upper links, that will clock your axles and move your drive shaft up out of the way. You will want to get a better chassis some time, but that is a cheap - free fix for your problem for now. I would hold out for the T1E chassis coming out for the AX-10.

You can experiment with adding different sizes of spacers between your rod ends and the link rods. You want the pinion to point upwards towards the tranny. This also staightens out your drive shaft, which puts less strain on it.

And if you do that without having clockable c's, it'll throw your caster way out of whack.

Tanis · 11-29-2010, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

And if you do that without having clockable c's, it'll throw your caster way out of whack.

Yep, and steering into the ground mostly

Cave Dave · 11-29-2010, 09:51 PM

If you have some soldering skills and some wire laying around reconfigure your battey like this.It makes a huge diferance, and can be free if you have the stuff to do it.

Aggie01 · 11-29-2010, 09:52 PM

They are right, but you asked for free to cheap. Clockable C's will run you about 30 bucks. Or you can get some beef toobs, which will allow you to clock your stock C's with a little dremel work on your axle housings.

GRIMGREG · 11-30-2010, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tanis

I wouldn't sweat it, I roll my front pinion down to gain caster, driveshaft rubs the rocks, never got stuck from it

Since the driveshaft is spinning, it's pretty tough to get hung up by it.

I don't know about RC that well as I'm new to it, but I know some 1:1 Crawlers have actually used the driveshaft spin to slide them sideways across the rocks until they can grab a tire if they are hung up on it.

shizzz · 11-30-2010, 08:10 AM

add some weight to the front.
relocate and reassemble ur batt or buy a lipo and place it in front. on the right side.

11-29-2010, 04:09 PM	#1
armycrawler101st Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: United States Posts: 159	Free to Cheap COG and Driveshaft mods Anyone have any free to cheap mods I can do to lower my COG and fix my drive-shaft? My front drive-shaft hangs below the links and catches on stuff when I go over them. I have both the front and rear 4 linked too. Over-all shot. As you see on the left side, the drive-shaft hangs down under the links, it doesn't look so bad in the pic, but it makes a terrible difference!!!

11-29-2010, 05:55 PM	#9
wurster Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: sweethome Posts: 452	cog Move the bat down to the front ax.you will have to run sad packs or a lipo .I run a 2 or 3 s ont the frount axel and it helps

11-29-2010, 04:29 PM	#2
GRIMGREG Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 496	Have you tried using the straight lower links in front? Maybe flipping the bent ones backwards would match the driveline angle better? Could make a custom diff/pinion skid plate.

11-29-2010, 04:37 PM	#3
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	Read the stickies at the top of the page...there is lots to learn there.

11-29-2010, 04:44 PM	#4
Tanis Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA Posts: 6,532	I wouldn't sweat it, I roll my front pinion down to gain caster, driveshaft rubs the rocks, never got stuck from it Since the driveshaft is spinning, it's pretty tough to get hung up by it.

11-29-2010, 04:48 PM	#5
dickwart Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Thorp WA, more sheep than men... Posts: 543	X2 on straight links up front, and what Tanis said... That MIP is metal, BEAT ON IT!

11-29-2010, 05:10 PM	#6
armycrawler101st Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: United States Posts: 159	What about my COG? I seem to roll over easily lol

11-29-2010, 05:11 PM	#7
dickwart Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Thorp WA, more sheep than men... Posts: 543	Out board your shocks on the chassis and the axle...

11-29-2010, 05:32 PM	#8
bob1961 I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Wayne county. PA Posts: 2,507	i run straight links on my tigress and never have troubles on the rocks.......bob ....

11-29-2010, 05:55 PM	#10
Highlucks Try to Bend it Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Perth Australia Posts: 3,163	Looks like you are still running your battery on the stock battery plate. Get yourself a cheap saddle pack or lipo so that you can mount it on the front axle. Also limit your shock travel so that you only have around 5-6" of articulation with the other 3 tyres resting on the ground. HTH.

11-29-2010, 05:57 PM	#11
Chris_The_Battery_Man I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Milwaukie OR Posts: 2,078	Your link geometry and shocks are probably alot to do with you rolling. The stock chassis, links, and shocks limit performance. I would recommend the GC3A chassis and Traxxas big bore shocks for ultimate performance. I know that is not "Cheap or Free" but worth the $$ for sure What are you running for a battery, charger, and ESC?

11-29-2010, 06:25 PM	#13
Chris_The_Battery_Man I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Milwaukie OR Posts: 2,078	I would consider using a small lipo then, and you will be much happier

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11-29-2010, 09:08 PM	#14
Aggie01 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: NTXRCC Posts: 488	If you lengthen your front upper links, that will clock your axles and move your drive shaft up out of the way. You will want to get a better chassis some time, but that is a cheap - free fix for your problem for now. I would hold out for the T1E chassis coming out for the AX-10. You can experiment with adding different sizes of spacers between your rod ends and the link rods. You want the pinion to point upwards towards the tranny. This also staightens out your drive shaft, which puts less strain on it.

11-29-2010, 09:51 PM	#17
Cave Dave RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kennewick, Washington Posts: 1,382	If you have some soldering skills and some wire laying around reconfigure your battey like this.It makes a huge diferance, and can be free if you have the stuff to do it.

11-29-2010, 09:52 PM	#18
Aggie01 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: NTXRCC Posts: 488	They are right, but you asked for free to cheap. Clockable C's will run you about 30 bucks. Or you can get some beef toobs, which will allow you to clock your stock C's with a little dremel work on your axle housings.

11-30-2010, 08:10 AM	#20
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	add some weight to the front. relocate and reassemble ur batt or buy a lipo and place it in front. on the right side.

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Thread: Free to Cheap COG and Driveshaft mods