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Thread: what's the best order to do mods?

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Old 12-15-2010, 06:18 AM   #1
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Default what's the best order to do mods?

Some changes cost a little, some a lot. Some make big improvements, some just give you just a little edge.

I've got an RTC and plan to do a lot, but can't afford to dump $300 or more into it all at one time.

Done: weight in tires, breather holes in tires, tekin fxr esc.

things under consideration - what makes the biggest improvement?

3S lipo on the front axle
re-gearing (undecided on how far to go)
stronger driveshafts (lots of options -what's best for the money?) - see edit - ordered integy
move links inboard on chassis
Tires -which ones? (still got stock ones on there)
raise steering bar and change to a metal tie rod since the RTC has a plastic one - see edit -ordered axial BTA kit
hitec servo and alum arm
dig/rear disconnect and 3Ch radio (this will be last as it's most costly)

Some Quesitons..
4 link and less articulation?? Why?
Over-driving the front axle - Just for comp rigs or any downsides to this?

Anything you think I should do that I missed?

edit to add: ordered axial BTA kit - solves a couple of issues all at once and the price from RCPLanet was hard to beat, also got hi clearance links and integy axles (look good, not expensive).

Last edited by prof_fate; 12-15-2010 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:57 AM   #2
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The best advice I can give you is to read the stickies at the top of this section and look at lots of build threads. Almost universally, you will find that tires are the best bang for the buck for a stock/near stock rig.

Beyond that, look at how your crawler handles and mod to address the weaknesses/problems as you see them.

Your list looks pretty good in any order, but if you wanna upgrade your driveshafts and get a dig, you might want to do them at the same time because you may need a different length shaft depending on the dig you get.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:34 AM   #3
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Thanks for your reply but it doesn't help much...i've read the stickies and such and that's how I compiled the list, and will likely do it all at some point, but without an unlimited budget it becomes a do something now, then in a few weeks and then a few weeks after that, etc.

Some changes are much more expensive than others - a dig for example means a new radio with a 3rd channel. If I do this after I upgrade the steering servo I can use the current one for the disconnect - so this mod, if I do it (changes the class I can run in) it's gonna be a $150-200 mod. Also, if you have a dig is there much point to overdriving the front axle gear?

As to the front axle gearing - i've had full size 4x4s and if the ratios don't match you can get binding and axle hop. Granted, an RC truck is different but as one adds weight to the tires, stickier tires, you begin to stress components. Any change 'for the better' will also have side effects and perhaps a downside.

For example, from what I've read the stock driveshafts aren't the most robust things out there and with my plan to run a 3S lipo I'm betting the stock one's won't last long. So to upgrade the power before the shafts would be counter productive.

I'm holding off on tires at the moment - until I see what others are running locally for the most part, plus mine are new and I've not had a chance to really test them out and there are soooo many choices and soem advice is to see what works at your local course...

The 'real' kit has alum tie rods and suspension links. I don't think alum suspension links will make much difference, but I know the fron tie bar/rod link on the RTC is a flexible plastic and i've already broken the stock servo saver. An upgrade the steering is must.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:51 AM   #4
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Tires will make the biggest difference. Rovers are a good all around tire and can be had cheaply.

Driveshafts will blow easily. Replace them with Traxxas #1951 and some Axial driveshaft rings.

After that, better electronics, be it a stronger servo or esc. Both are needed. Get a bec while you're at it.

Then work on the suspension. Better shocks, proper springs, and proper link geometry will do wonders.

You can go far with the stock chassis, so don't rush into that.

Don't rush into getting dig either. Its very easy to forget about proper driving and gain a dependence on it. Spend a year driving in Sportsman class (dig is illegal) to get your chops up.

OD/UD gears help quite a bit. Unless you want to drive really fast, there is no downside.

Less articulation because too much will just get you bound up or you'll flop all over the place.

Aluminum links suck because as they get scratched and gouged, they stick to the rocks more. Delrin or titanium is your best bet.



Forget your 1:1 experience, it doesn't apply here.

Most importantly, buy from those who support our hobby and this site! There are many vendors here with great prices and actively support rc crawling.

Also, don't buy Integy!

Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 12-15-2010 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof_fate View Post
Also, if you have a dig is there much point to overdriving the front axle gear?

As to the front axle gearing - i've had full size 4x4s and if the ratios don't match you can get binding and axle hop. Granted, an RC truck is different
Overdriving the front (or underdriving the rear) is a big improvement with or without dig. Like you said, RCs are different than 1:1 and it has no adverse effect on your AX-10. It's a very good "bang for your buck" mod.

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Originally Posted by prof_fate View Post
I'm holding off on tires at the moment - until I see what others are running locally for the most part, plus mine are new and I've not had a chance to really test them out
Run your truck until you wear out your tires. By the time you need new rubber, the mods you have listed will make more sense, and it will be much clearer to you as to which one to do next. One thing I would add to your list is aluminum C's. The stock plastic units break very easily. Since you have the BTA coming, swap out the C's too.

Good luck, and welcome to RCC

Last edited by C*H*U*D; 12-15-2010 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:21 AM   #6
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You said you read through all the stickies, but you might want to give this one a read too. I like this thread because he takes a step by step approach to his changes....much like it sounds you are planning to do. He also gives the price breakdown as he goes.

K.O.M's Newbie Comp Build
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post

Driveshafts will blow easily. Replace them with Traxxas #1951 and some Axial driveshaft rings.
I have heard of the traxxas upgrade. still plastic though?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
After that, better electronics, be it a stronger servo or esc. Both are needed. Get a bec while you're at it.
OK, here I see you mention BEC. I'm confused. Back in my previos RC life a BEC allowed one to eliminate the reciver batt and use the main pack to run the receiver. Today that's built in to the receiver via the ESC. So what does a 'modern' bec do for me? (I assume power the servo...I had a 7.2v pack and had issues with binding at full turn lock but with 8.4v pack it's not an issue anymore -going to 11.1v I don't foresee any issues...instruct me please!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
Don't rush into getting dig either. Its very easy to forget about proper driving and gain a dependence on it. Spend a year driving in Sportsman class (dig is illegal) to get your chops up.

OD/UD gears help quite a bit. Unless you want to drive really fast, there is no downside.
Yeah, dig is a ways off for that reason. My son (age 10) does drive it a bit with a very different style - i'll creep and he'll blast - i'll wreck but he gets to the top...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
Less articulation because too much will just get you bound up or you'll flop all over the place.

Aluminum links suck because as they get scratched and gouged, they stick to the rocks more. Delrin or titanium is your best bet.
How do you limit the travel? The RTC includes longer/better shocks and has plastic (delrin?) links already.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude View Post
Most importantly, buy from those who support our hobby and this site! There are many vendors here with great prices and actively support rc crawling.

Also, don't buy Integy!
Why not? Is their stuff crap or do they employ child labor or something? This is what I have coming...http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...39&p_catid=124

There are ton of online place to buy and some get recommended, some I've used, some look a bit cheesy and perhaps untrustworthy and then there's always china/hongkong. LHS is a my first choice - but it's 30+ minutes to get to one and 90% of the time they don't have what I need in stock (assuming the counter jock has a clue to begin with)
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
You said you read through all the stickies, but you might want to give this one a read too. I like this thread because he takes a step by step approach to his changes....much like it sounds you are planning to do. He also gives the price breakdown as he goes.

K.O.M's Newbie Comp Build
I can blame you for me not getting any work done today, OK?
Great read!
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Old 12-15-2010, 02:21 PM   #9
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the first upgrade i made was tire went with panthers then shocks, mtx mammoth fit build and budget ialso installed integy soild front axel love it good luck
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