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Thread: Fastback and FF4, i owners need some assistance

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Old 01-08-2011, 09:39 PM   #21
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I think you are going to have a little bit of natural shift (TT) with a shafty, it just depends on how it effects the performance. I hate to ask but what shock oil are you running in the rears? This probably has already been address but I had to ask. I ran my rear of my fb and my ff4 pretty stiff compared to the front on spring tension and also foams and found it performed better.

On a final note, the underdrive rear is not only helpfull for TT but it is more helpful for turning. I highly suggest running the underdrive. You will improve two things at once.

Finally I stopped saying "last option" about a month after I got into this hobby. Easy for me to say seeing as how I just spent about 12 hours this week working on a berg that was shipped to me as a ARTR!

Just noticed something else. Try moving your shocks outboard of the axle tabs, and move your lower links to the outer most mounting postion inside the tabs (put a ball end on the inside for spacing). That might give the shock a better angle.

Last edited by RickM; 01-08-2011 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 01-09-2011, 03:24 PM   #22
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right now it has 70wt in the rears with the 3 hole plunger
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:21 AM   #23
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If you are running the same in both that might be part of it. I would run a think I was running something like 80 in one side and 50 in the other with the spring cranked up a bit on the firm side. Also how is your motor setup? Spur up front or in the rear?

Last edited by RickM; 01-10-2011 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:11 PM   #24
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I ran the FF4 for quite a while as my main comp rig. It's now a dedicated sportsman no dig rig.

Anyway, the best I found was to run the rear shocks fully extended at ride height, but just barely fully extended. As in if you add any weight to the chassis the shocks would compress a bit. Then preload the drivers rear about 1/2". I'm running Losi white springs.

Try raising the rear upper links on the chassis to put the instant center further forward, that will reduce TT by itself. I run the passenger upper one hole down from the top, and the drivers rear two holes down from the top. I do have my rear links under the plate on the rear axle.

I'd also recommend lowering the front upper links on the chassis to make the front more responsive to bumps.

My ride height is about 2 5/8" or so at the front of the skid.

Just something else to try. If it doesn't work, you can always change it back.
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manning View Post
I ran the FF4 for quite a while as my main comp rig. It's now a dedicated sportsman no dig rig.

Anyway, the best I found was to run the rear shocks fully extended at ride height, but just barely fully extended. As in if you add any weight to the chassis the shocks would compress a bit. Then preload the drivers rear about 1/2". I'm running Losi white springs.

Try raising the rear upper links on the chassis to put the instant center further forward, that will reduce TT by itself. I run the passenger upper one hole down from the top, and the drivers rear two holes down from the top. I do have my rear links under the plate on the rear axle.

I'd also recommend lowering the front upper links on the chassis to make the front more responsive to bumps.

My ride height is about 2 5/8" or so at the front of the skid.

Just something else to try. If it doesn't work, you can always change it back.

I think this is some solid advise...other than the different link mounts at the chassis...and thats only because I have never tried it.




How are coming along with this?


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