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Old 12-16-2010, 09:29 PM   #1
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Default Ax-10 cvd?

I got the Axial CVD's but the pin in the joint is very small and weak point on it. Is their an other company the make one that are stronger than the axial one's?
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:31 PM   #2
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I know a guy, look in the vender section, or PM, Gunnar, for like a dollar or two you can get the best pins available, I broke 3 or 4 mip CVD pins, i'm going on 2-3 months with my first set of gunnar pins
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:36 PM   #3
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SDS super 300's
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:39 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by romulus22 View Post
SDS super 300's
Yep, buy these and you won't have to worry about contacting me.
Let me know if you need any help
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:52 PM   #5
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I know what your thinking. $150 for CVD's! Well if you go with cheaper you will spend that much eventually by replacing broken axles, then eventually you will break down and get the 300's. Bite the bullet I am fixin' to my self.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by brian3323 View Post
I know what your thinking. $150 for CVD's! Well if you go with cheaper you will spend that much eventually by replacing broken axles, then eventually you will break down and get the 300's. Bite the bullet I am fixin' to my self.

Let me clear something up.

I'm not against either gunnar or SDS, If your a newb looking for more reliability, a novice, or a pro crawler. There is absolutly nothing wrong with purchasing Gunnars pins for the Axial CVD's. I will say from experiance that the Axial brand is the best of out of the many that are out there, even better than MiP's. The combination of the pins and the Axial CVD's are a great deal and will help you very much.

On another note. If you feel compelled to purchase the SDS Customs Super 300's, you cant go wrong. They are strong, beefy, and will most likely outlast most drivers obsession with crawling. Yes they are expensive, but they come with a locker and everything you need, except the need to drill out your bevel gears and hex's. I would say that these are designed more for the serious competitor in mind and someone that desires a stronger drive shaft for a strong torque motor.

Either way is a good decision, but don't feel that Super 300's are the way to go just because. Im very confident that Gunnar's pins will hold up well, most likely longer than the CVD's.
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:43 PM   #7
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The pin am talking about is the one in the ball that lets the knuckle turn. Is this gunner pin the same? Also is ther a link for the SDS 300's?
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:45 PM   #8
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Even I would run Super 300's over Axials, but hey, I like 50 degrees of steering. I won't replace your CVD if you break the ball off or snap the cup, but I'll give you more pins, or refund your money-even both if you want. There have been some breakages, but at least they don't cost much (the pins I mean)
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:59 PM   #9
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Even I would run Super 300's over Axials, but hey, I like 50 degrees of steering. I won't replace your CVD if you break the ball off or snap the cup, but I'll give you more pins, or refund your money-even both if you want. There have been some breakages, but at least they don't cost much (the pins I mean)
Yeah the pin price is not the issue. Just the hassle of having some fun and then BAM it broke and have to stop and fix it. For me its just a reliability thing. If its a little more $$$ than the axial well its the price for that.
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by realmoto View Post
The pin am talking about is the one in the ball that lets the knuckle turn. Is this gunner pin the same? Also is ther a link for the SDS 300's?
Yep, the pins Gunnar sells are made from music wire and they are stronger than the damn axle! You can get the SDS Super 300's from TCS or direct from SDS via a PM. I sent him a PM yesterday and he said he is supposed to pick up parts after work today to get some assembled, or that TCS should have them in stock.




https://www.tcscrawlers.com/Super-30...0-p-18075.html
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:10 PM   #11
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Cool thanks for the info. I have some choices to make now.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:51 AM   #12
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Like many have said best bang for your buck is gunner pins and axial cvds. However if your really looking for the end all mod for cvds 300s are your only choice..

That being said I beat my rig pretty hard and I have destroyed 3 sets of mip cvds. I then got a set of axials damn pins broke and I met someone that had a extra set of gunners pins, I put them in and 3 months of crawling later I havent looked back. I feel that if I break them now I will have to get the 300s.

Just my 2pennies for your evaluation.. Either decision will result with happiness!




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Old 12-18-2010, 09:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by irok22s View Post
Like many have said best bang for your buck is gunner pins and axial cvds. However if your really looking for the end all mod for cvds 300s are your only choice..

That being said I beat my rig pretty hard and I have destroyed 3 sets of mip cvds. I then got a set of axials damn pins broke and I met someone that had a extra set of gunners pins, I put them in and 3 months of crawling later I havent looked back. I feel that if I break them now I will have to get the 300s.

Just my 2pennies for your evaluation.. Either decision will result with happiness!




.

DT didn't sell you his 300's with the chassis? I'd see if he still has his and what he is willing to part with them for.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:26 AM   #14
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i have had the axial CVD's since april 2008 in my 7.5 lb rig with one lb tire/wheel combo on each corner....i went a little over year without issue with them ....seen gunners pins and ordered some then i broke a stock pin....but the 3 times i had the axles apart the axial CVD's pins showed no signs of any wear ....plus i have EGRESSor's alum no slop lockers also, which i think helps with those pins not breaking so easy due to the forward/reverse banging the pins take with the slop from stock lockers and such....if/when my axial CVD's bust an axle shaft i might go 300's, but till then i'm not gonna fix what is not busted ........bob

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Old 12-19-2010, 07:22 PM   #15
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Just a FYI and this is not to bash Gunners pins, he makes great stuff and I replaced my Gunner pin that bent and did not break with a new Gunner pin, any way here is a pic of my Axial CVD that I was running with Gunner pins, but fist let me tell you I am not easy on my comp rig at all, I run a 35 turn motor and a 3 cell 11.1 volt lipo and my entire drive train is some short of aluminum or steel - the spur gear, I have blown up stock dog bone ends and drive cups as well as the ends of MIP's CVD's and stub axles, it just seems to be my weak link on my AX10, any way what seems to have happened was my Gunner pin bent and caused the Axial CVD to bind up and break.




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Old 12-19-2010, 08:10 PM   #16
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Although it certainly is not my intention to break expensive CVD's with some little $1 pins, I do admit sometimes it does put a smile on my face when I see something twice as thick break before the pin fails completely. Although the pin bending and binding up the joint is most certainly the cause(or at at least can start the process) I only want you get through a comp run, instead of sitting at gate 3 with 3 wheel drive. As I told Curtis, something has to give, but sometimes I wish it was the pin intead of a more expensive part.

I made some for Super 300's, but it might be best if I keep those for myself, I don't want you guys to start breaking those too

Last edited by gunnar; 12-19-2010 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:14 PM   #17
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I'm sorry, but I would tend to believe that your CVD was aimed at breaking no matter what. I am more inclined to believe that it was already stressed by a few too many hard landings or one good one on the edge of a rock. The pin is still rather straight enough to be able to seat in the hex. I run a 35T and a 3S in my scalers and had the same issue with stock pins. The Axial CVD's are much stronger than the MiP's or even the 3Racing's but they are bound to fail when stressed enough. Its one of those things that if you are that hard and it happen's that often, its time to move to the 300's.

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Originally Posted by abadk9420 View Post
Just a FYI and this is not to bash Gunners pins, he makes great stuff and I replaced my Gunner pin that bent and did not break with a new Gunner pin, any way here is a pic of my Axial CVD that I was running with Gunner pins, but fist let me tell you I am not easy on my comp rig at all, I run a 35 turn motor and a 3 cell 11.1 volt lipo and my entire drive train is some short of aluminum or steel - the spur gear, I have blown up stock dog bone ends and drive cups as well as the ends of MIP's CVD's and stub axles, it just seems to be my weak link on my AX10, any way what seems to have happened was my Gunner pin bent and caused the Axial CVD to bind up and break.




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Old 12-19-2010, 08:30 PM   #18
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I'd say a bent pin like that inside the CVD will sort of make the joint go "out of phase" if you know what I mean. Since the pin is contained by a ring, you would think only a massive failure of the ring and pin would actually cause the CVD joint to fail. Maybe the bent pin could cause it, maybe not, but failure occured at some point.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #19
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As much as I would like to go to 300's I just don't have $150+ dollars to shell out at one time for a set of axles, as for the pin not looking very bent it took a punch to get it out of the stub shaft, and those axles only had 2 comps on them.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:05 AM   #20
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One thing I not clear on, is do the super 300 cvd need a different axle lock or do I still use the OEM one?
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