Please tell me why

[Tanis]

You'll have to charge the packs individually.

[TheRockguy]

I was reading on some guys talking about how it can be done just no one saying how. Itll be something for me to work out and see if it is a possibiity.

[BLKXJ 96]

Ok, a 850mAh LiPo is pretty small. I would just run them all one at a time and not try to wire two togather. On one pack on a stock truck you will probably get about a half hour+ run time. Mount the battery on the front upper links to keep the unsprung weight out of the chassis. All you will need to mount these is velcro nothing fancy and you should get a Lexan plate that zipties to the links with your truck kit.

[TheRockguy]

nice, 30 min. a pack, crawlers are reallly great on batteries , I will do just that and run one pack at a time to start, heck IVe got 6 of em.
thanks for the input.

[prof_fate]

Originally Posted by TheRockguy

that just what I was hoping to hear,
and I have no doubt that I will want to upgrade in the future ( have already started picking out esc...) and probally shocks and cheap tips right off the bat.

I just need to keep the pocket books safe for a while as Im starting a job with the railroad as a conductor trainee jan. 29 and wont get paid for a month

this is a great forumn, and im glad I signed up with it. i know Im gonna be addicted just hoping it can wait for my paycheck

Yeah, but once you do start getting paid you'll have plenty of upgrade money! That's a great job.

I made a few of the free mods bender suggests on the axial site and my RTC was great fun. The only upgrades I wanted was the ESC (for a drag brake but many run without it) and to replace the plastic steering draglink (went with the axial BTA kit online I found it for $44). A big improvement is to get the batter off the backbone of the chassis and onto the front axle and the BTA kit includes the mountplate for htat - all you need is a lipo which can be had online for $10-20.

I added lots of weight to my wheels and am going to 3S lipo so I'll be stressing the driveshafts a lot more than you will if you keep say, 3oz of weight in eachfron wheel and none in the rear (and it will climb great just like that). So I changed driveshafts before I broke anything and bought integy (which from what all here say was a bad buy brand wise).

I plan to compete with mine - and usually the racer with the deepest pockets has the biggest advantage. I added $250-300 worth of mods to the stock RTC to get a competitive rig (may still need a motor or gearing...) but now I must learn to drive what I've built. I just have the confidence to know I can't blame the ride for any failures to win.