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Thread: AX-10 RC-Solutions chassis

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Old 12-26-2010, 05:59 PM   #1
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Default AX-10 RC-Solutions chassis

Anyone run this or know anything about it? I like the way it looks and it's a lot cheaper then most I seen.



I've done a search but didn't really come up with anything.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:14 PM   #2
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Uhhhh.....Did you look at the post right above yours?

RC-Solutions chassis & 60/40 droop
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:19 PM   #3
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Uhhh.. Did you see I posted and bump that thread with no results and besides no where in that thread does he say it does great IN THE ROCKS.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:25 PM   #4
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It was only 6 hours ago.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:25 PM   #5
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Take it easy bro. You asked for any info about it. That's any info. I was not trying to piss you off.
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Old 12-26-2010, 06:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic101 View Post
It was only 6 hours ago.
I know it's the impatience in me.. I didn't want to still his thread, although it has been dead for almost a year..lol
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:42 PM   #7
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Default Chassis

I just picked one up and Really like it. It's a good looking chassis and it's light!
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skibum173 View Post
I just picked one up and Really like it. It's a good looking chassis and it's light!

When you get a chance to take it out let me know how it does.. I'm guessing it should be an improvement over the stock chassis.
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:24 AM   #9
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I haven't used it, but I can make a couple observations based on the pic.

- It's technically a standard AX-10 sideplate set turned into a bodiless chassis. This means that you aren't going to get any adjustability increases over stock (maybe the shock links). Good side of this is I think it should work as a direct bolt on replacement to the stock chassis, not requiring custom links.

- Being bodiless, you'll get a nice narrow profile between the tires, no body post crap, and maybe a bit lower CG. Might helps some with rollovers.

- Beyond that, use all the "standard" stock AX-10 tips (mount everything as low as possible, electronics on trays on upper links, make it 4-link, etc).
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:39 AM   #10
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Thanks for the input. I got everything a little lower and have 4 link but it is still top heavy with this big ol' body. From the pictures it looks like it sits way lower then what I have.

As it sits now..



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Old 12-27-2010, 06:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 505tj View Post
Thanks for the input. I got everything a little lower and have 4 link but it is still top heavy with this big ol' body. From the pictures it looks like it sits way lower then what I have.

As it sits now..



Umm. Thats not the same chassis.
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian3323 View Post
Umm. Thats not the same chassis.
I believe he is making an observation of what he has compared to what he thinks he wants.

Casey
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Old 12-27-2010, 08:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS View Post
I believe he is making an observation of what he has compared to what he thinks he wants.

Casey

Yep..
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:48 PM   #14
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Ah, you are considering options then.....

If you are up to making custom links, I think you'd get the best performance out of a T1E Moonbuggy, an UGC Fastback (if you can find one used), or something that lowers the profile more than the stock setup.

That first body you showed would be an improvement over what you are currently running.

Make lexan plates and zip tie them to the upper links and mount electronics there....much better CG, standard tip. Use small batteries. Replace tires with HB Rovers or Sedona's, or Losi Boss Claws (my personal fave). Not sure if your wheels are beadlocks or not, so you may have to upgrade them too. Proline Titus wheels are plastic, but have an available weight set that is simple to use, they work well, and are relatively cheap.

Most of these tips are pretty general and are worth while whether you want to compete or bash.

When you want the comp config, come back with your checkbook and we'll do some serious talking!
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:38 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the info!! I have plates on the upper arms for the batteries and the tires are proline, flat iron (not inpressed) and they are beed locked, with BBs for weights..
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:45 PM   #16
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I reckon it is ugly as and will offer ver little improvement from what you have now. It will also have very poor roll over recovery.
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:38 PM   #17
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Well I ordered it. I appreciate everyones response but no one has any real experience with one so I figured I'd give it a shot.

I'll post up if it really sucks or not..
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:07 PM   #18
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Got the new chassis for the crawler, it's from RC solutions and it's all aluminum.
I extended the wheel base about an inch.
Took both axles apart, cleaned and re greased them.
Flipped the shocks upside down for center of gravity reasons.

The kit came with everything I needed to put it together.

It sits an inch lower then my last body and is way lighter.

Finished!!





I didn't have time to take it out tonight, I'll do it tomorrow and let you guys know how it does. I totally LOVE the way it looks!!!

Last edited by 505tj; 01-03-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:07 PM   #19
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Well over all I'm happy with it, for the money though I could of got something a little better. I moved the shocks inward to lower the COG and put better tires (http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/67772-ho...ft-p-1323.html) and that seemed to help! I have 2.5" of clearance and it's about 7" tall. Does that sound about right?





New tires next to old.

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Old 01-17-2011, 09:09 PM   #20
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With these tires do you mount them with the little white dot out or in?
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