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My 4 link conversion, other mods and progress report. Well I went out to my first outting with the PARC group from Phoenix area and learned at lot about the used AX10 I got on CL. I came home and added weights to the front wheels and convert the 3 link axles to four link. I used some Losi parts from my Speed T. For mounts I bolted on Losi rear A-Frame shock mounts. For ends I used some old Losi tierod ends shorten to the lenght I needed. The nuts on the bolts to mount the adapter to the servo mounts sucked up into the larger holds in the first picture. Chris http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0790.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0791.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0786.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0789.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0788.jpg |
Are they slightly offset? Looks like a simple quick mod"thumbsup". |
nice im about to head home and start my 4 link conversion;-) |
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I knocked a drive line off today at the tranny. I have collars at the axle end, but not at the tranny. What is the best upgraded drive lines?? Chris |
MIP's are the best drive shafts. Junfac also make some good shafts. |
I ordered the traxxis TRA1953 set of six center sections. MIP appears to have discontinued their standard drive line product. I order a lot of Losi Speed T parts from Losi Parts House in California and they now have a Traxxis section. Good price for the TRA1953 Long Truck Half-Shaft Pro Pack (6). Chris |
I am now working on a Dig setup. Pictures to follow in a few days. Also have 3.30 gears coming to install in the rear diff. So question, if I am not going to compete, which would be best? Dig or Rear Wheel steering? Dig would be cheaper to do! Chris |
If ya don't want to comp ever, I say 4ws. Go with a 4ws set-up with a remote like this. |
New drive-lines. Well my gears did not show up today, however the Traxxis TRA1953 set of six center sections did arrive from the Losi Parts House. So I did a dual female drive line on each end. I cut a little more that a quarter inch off each female to allow for suspension compression, cut the yoke off a male for the center section and divided another male section into four pieces and put one piece in the bottom of each female to keep the male centered in the two females. 10 or 15 minutes in the creek here in the RV park and the females are already scratched up a bit. However the center male will be much harder to scratch up! Chris http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/DSCF0798.jpg |
MIP driveshafts and Thundertech are spitting images of each other. You can get the Thundertech ones on TCS. Casey |
Gears Well I got the 3.30 gears installed in the rear and it seems to have reduced the turn radius quite a bit. I still seem to lift the right front wheel a lot! I put heavier oil in the left rear shock. I may try some heavier oil in the right front shock. Found a neat place to practice in our sister park next door. Got he get more of our paved oval guys to start crawling. My Speed T is probably getting pisted off with all the attention the AX10 has been getting. Chris |
Dig parts Well, I got the drive line part of a dig built and then turned around and ordered the Axial BTA kit. So I will have the SP Racing steering hubs that I can move to the rear axial. So I am ordering the axials and dogbones to go in the rear. So dig is on the back burner and 4ws is on the front burner. Will most likely try both out, but my DX3.0 radio will only allow one or the other. Chris http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0813.jpg |
sweet setup i need to get my 4 link done |
BTA Axial kit AXI303533 Today I received my BTA kit (AXI303533) from RC Planet and installed it. Attached are a few pictures. I installed a ball on the servo arm to increase the clearance over the tierod, as the end that pops on it is smaller than the normal end. I used the existing servo/battery tray cutting away the rear left side for the servo arm/drag link. Only issue I had was the the hub carriers were tight when I tighten the king pin screws, so I put a thin Losi shim in between the flange pipe and SP axle C's on the bottem which removed the bind. So I have most of the parts to do 4WS, however my DX3.0 is an issue, so I may move ahead with the rear dig setup. Chris http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0814.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0815.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0816.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0817.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0818.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0819.jpg |
Testing BTA |
Shocks Well I knocked the cap off a shock a couple times, so I looked at what I had. Plastic shocks in earlier pictures that where on the crawler when I bought it used. A set of Aluminum Axial shocks that came with it and seems to leak badly and I old set of Aluminum Losi Desert Truck shocks. So I cut the aluminum hoop mount off of the top of the Losi DT shocks and drilled and tapped 4-40 holes in the top. Locktited screws in the holes and then put Axial ball ends on the screws. The other end got the original ball ends. It lowered the crawler slightly and seems to be working well. http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0825.jpg http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...7/DSCF0827.jpg |
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http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...r+transmission |
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