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Thread: turning radius sucks.... now what?

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Old 01-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #21
Quarry Creeper
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
It'll solve your problem immediately and completely.
...Until the "dogbone" binds up and snaps the axle shaft. It's pretty much maxed out when the knuckle hits the screw. Mine have nice wear marks where the axle shaft is hitting the inside of the stub shaft.

So, you'll want to invest in some "CVDs" if you go more than stock.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:32 PM   #22
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Here's a photo:



Bone stock steering and axle parts. The red area is rubbing the blue at full lock. I've heard of people grinding some material from inside the stub shaft(red area) to prevent this.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:46 AM   #23
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I have plastic knuckles and plastic C hubs and have enough turning throw to partly bind my stock dog bones. My claim to fame is the C hub screw mod where you use a tapered head screw and you counter sink the hole in the c hub to get the screw flush... AND most of all. I run a better servo and a Spektrum 3.0 radio which allows me to set my servo end points to 125%.

I use a Delrin steering link and it actually binds and bends on the diff housing at full steering lock.

at 100% it only turns like my buddies stock servo setup with stock radio. At 125% I have bound the dog bones and snapped C Hubs when useing the Dig because it oversteered that much.
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edge0877 View Post
Narrow chassis, bta steering, cvd's, over&under drive i think that's it but there's probably more
Well.... I can see the narrow chassis helping me out in a few ways, all I need is a narrow skidplate... just don't know where to buy? or which one... it would also help me with my shock location which needs to be changed

Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinThyme View Post
I had the same problem with upgrade aluminum c-hubs (STRC) and knuckles (Venom).....knuckles hitting the screw on the c-hub.

My cure was to go with a BTA kit. The one I used was from HR, and took a little custom tweaking to work right with my front 4-link mount.

If you have a limiting factor like this, rather than going the new c-hub and knuckles route, get a BTA kit (an c-hubs if they aren't included in the kit). It'll solve your problem immediately and completely.

As mentioned, some pix would help.
I just installed aluminum knuckles (Freebie), and I know they won't help me with steering throw, but i keep breaking them so they will help with that... I'll look into the BTA kit
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:26 AM   #25
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One thing you could check is if the dog bones are pushed all the way in to the locker. It could be just the picture, but it looks like the dog bone is to far in the stub shaft.
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:28 AM   #26
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what servo are you running w/ what horn
also sounds like you can benifit from some cvd's.

and as stated in earlier posts, wee need pics of your entire setup
top side and front views
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:46 AM   #27
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its easy cvds and alloy hubs and hi clearance or behind axle steering my friend its time to upgrade from plastic
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabbill View Post
One thing you could check is if the dog bones are pushed all the way in to the locker. It could be just the picture, but it looks like the dog bone is to far in the stub shaft.
It's just the angle of the photo. They're in all the way. ;)
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