Ax10 stub shaft slop!

[day215]

I have more lateral slop in my stub shafts than I care for, with the rig on all fours, I get a little play inward and outward if I jiggle the top of the tires. There is a very small gap between the outermost bearing and the hex pin, this seems to be the issue. I searched the boards for solutions, I found a Guy who placed a 5mm washer under the hex pin, this worked until I tightened up my wheels, with the wheels secured the drivetrain binds up, presumably from the pin being righted against the newly installed washer. I backed of the wheel nut and it freed things up, but now I'm concerned the nut is going to work itself loose.

I'm using the stock dog bones and drive cups, the slop doesn't effect the way the rig runs, but it seems like a potential weak point. Does anyone have any suggestion? How about a slightly wider bearing? Thanks for the input, Daniel

[GRIMGREG]

I've noticed the same slop on mine, but haven't noticed any adverse effects from it while running.

[cagedcbr]

I don't know if it's actually possible to get rid of the slop in the front end. I have HR clockable C's, VP high clearance knuckles on my AX10 and it took quite a bit of figuring out were to shim to get rid of slop, only to bolt the wheels on and find the same slop your finding. I have some shim washers between the hexes and the steering knuckles but find a very fine line between getting rid of that slop and actually binding up the wheel. Lastly I find the stub your talking about is not actually a nice tight fit in the bearings. I plan on getting some CVD's in the near future so I'm not to concerned right now but I know it's something I will have to address further.

[day215]

I agree with the slop not having an effect on drivability, I also agree that the slop isn't in the bearings themselves. The issue seems to lie within the hex pin to bearing surface, there is just enough of a gap between the two that it allows the entire stub shaft to slide in and out a mm or two. It just seems unusual to have all that play in the front and rear end. I'm wondering if a flanged bearing with the flange sitting right under the hex pin would help.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Somewhere I found some super thin washers that would fit behind the pin without binding up. It took some of the slop out, but not all.

The bearings will have some slop too, and there isn't much to do about that.

Then there's some slop between the knuckle and carriers.

And the carriers and axle housings.

Then the rod ends.

Driveshafts too.

Ring and pinion as well.

Don't forget about the gears in the transmission.

Steering servo? Eventually.

Its best not to get too uptight about loose tolerances. There are much more important things in life to worry about...

[day215]

Holy shit, I'm going to need a LOT of washers!!!!!!.

I'm going to tryvone more fix, I'll move the washer to the inside of the knuckle instead of under the hex pin. If that doesn't work then I'll live with it. I just can't help but feel for the poor chap I may someday sell this rig to, I mean who likes sloppy seconds right!.

[cagedcbr]

Much agreed Duuuuuuuude! I try to get rid of the majority of slop but there is always some there, the only thing I ever got nice and slop free was, or should I say is my NTC3.

[myth619]

I installed VP zero akerman knuckels on my AX-10 and found that there was alot of slop like you're talking about. I had some shims that came with the Axial rear lockout kit that allowed me to "tune" preload on the stub shafts. I put the shims between the pin and the outer bearing. Got rid of 95% of the slop. Just my .02.

[day215]

Originally Posted by myth619

I installed VP zero akerman knuckels on my AX-10 and found that there was alot of slop like you're talking about. I had some shims that came with the Axial rear lockout kit that allowed me to "tune" preload on the stub shafts. I put the shims between the pin and the outer bearing. Got rid of 95% of the slop. Just my .02.

Yes, that's what the washer act as in my case, a "pre load shim". I tried moving the. Washer to the inside of the knuckle, it was the same as not having anything at all. I moved the washer back under the hex pin, and then I tighten down the wheel nut until I have resistance shell turning the wheel, then I back the nut off slightly. Its a nylock nut so it should stay put, I'll just have to check them every so often