RCCrawler Forums

Wicked Klown · 02-09-2011, 03:09 PM

Ok for some odd reason one on my knuckles the steering is real tight with just one screw. If I put the left side bottom screw in the steering gets tight, even if I just get the screw started. If I leave it out and just have the top one in the steering is real nice and smooth. The moment I start the bottom one it gets tight. Is there anything I can do to fix this.

PipeDreams · 02-09-2011, 03:30 PM

more detail about the rig... this is super common!

Axle? which c's which knuckles ect!

Wicked Klown · 02-09-2011, 03:33 PM

No idea what c-hubs or knuckles are on it, as I bought it used. I know it has the CKRC BTA so I'm guessing the knuckles are CKRC. Here is what my set up looks like.

PipeDreams · 02-09-2011, 03:40 PM

HR C's it looks like.

My guess is MIP cvd's?

I'm betting the axle or bearing isn't seated all the way, something is bent or the axle joint is binding... If you take the top screw out and just do the bottom then the top does it still get tight with the bottom screw or only once you try doing the top? If you have no screws in does the axle joint turn smooth?

Wicked Klown · 02-09-2011, 03:51 PM

If I put the bottom one in first and do it finger tight. The steering is tight, have to back it off a little bit. IF I do this and start the top the steering gets tight again. Yes they are MIP cvds.

Highlucks · 02-09-2011, 05:46 PM

The knuckles look like CKRC, make sure your cvds are pushed in as far as they go and the outer most bearing is seated properly. You may need to take the cvd's out and clean where they engage the locker with a piece of emery paper.

Wicked Klown · 02-09-2011, 06:10 PM

Seems I have it fixed for now. I took the c-hub off flipped it and put it back on. After that I was fine, it was on right to begin with. As it has scraps on the front now they are on the back and it works. I did however just order a set of VP Zero ackermann knuckles and a Jones'N BTA tie rod.

solomon7 · 02-14-2011, 12:29 PM

You have the flange pipe bushings that go in the "kingpin" holes, right?

Just checking the basics first.
I know some knuckles don't need them though.

Wicked Klown · 02-14-2011, 01:03 PM

Yep have those install. Just change over to VP zero ackermann knuckles and have the same problem. I have to install the screw then back it off just a tad to have it turn smoothly.

K.O.M. · 02-14-2011, 01:55 PM

This is a common problem, but relatively easy to solve. The answer lies with the flange pipe bushings--they are too short for 99% of the knuckles on the market. Add to that the different manufacturing variances, and you've got tight knuckles.

I ideal solution is to have flange pipe bushings that are just slightly (.01-.02") longer than the knuckle mounts are thick (good luck). Short of that, you can shave just a few hundreths of the top and bottom of the knuckles that way when you screw it on the c-hub, the screws tighten against the flange pipe bushings and not sandwich the knuckles and flange pipe so that they are immovable.

Wicked Klown · 02-14-2011, 02:10 PM

I might have to do that, seems weird it's only on the one side.

C*H*U*D · 02-14-2011, 02:12 PM

I have seen the VP High Clearance do this, and it's exactly what K.O.M is saying. I used a very thin washer between the bushing and C-hub. This gets the bushing to project a bit more out of the knuckle, so that the bolt hits the bushing and not the knuckle.

It's a pain in the ass to assemble but can be done

Wicked Klown · 02-14-2011, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I have seen the VP High Clearance do this, and it's exactly what K.O.M is saying. I used a very thin washer between the bushing and C-hub. This gets the bushing to project a bit more out of the knuckle, so that the bolt hits the bushing and not the knuckle.

It's a pain in the ass to assemble but can be done

By any chance do you have a photo of this set up?

C*H*U*D · 02-14-2011, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked Klown

By any chance do you have a photo of this set up?

I'll grab one tonight.

Wicked Klown · 02-14-2011, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I'll grab one tonight.

Thanks

guapotaco · 02-14-2011, 06:41 PM

i just fixed this problem yesterday, i had reused my axial flanges but had ordered more, i ended up with HPI flanges instead and not axial, they work so much better as they are a RCH(whats this?) longer so no washers or anything, i tried the washer fix but it only fixed one side, must have been worn more than i thought, all fixed and no bind at all with all new Hpi flanges, i will assume these wear as we drive and turn etc...the ones i had in were brass so i can imagine how soft they are, i think these new ones are aluminum

C*H*U*D · 02-14-2011, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked Klown

Thanks

Here is what I did. This is on my scaler, but these are stock Axial C's with Vanquish High Steer Knuckles. I have just one washer on the tops...this takes up the slop, and allows the bushing to support the knuckle. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Juan

KC_JoNeS · 02-14-2011, 07:41 PM

Hey Donald, I am curious...did you install the beef toobs in that axle?

Casey

GRIMGREG · 02-14-2011, 07:57 PM

One side of mine is tight, I figured out when I swapped to overdrive gears that it is the Axial aluminum C. One side flops around easily, the other is tight, flipped to opposite side it is just the same but opposite. If I loosen the C on the axel tube it loosens right up. My guess is that the screw hole is milled just a hair off on that one C. I ground the inside of the out drive axel a little and it loosened a bit, think I'll just grind a little more.

Wicked Klown · 02-14-2011, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS

Hey Donald, I am curious...did you install the beef toobs in that axle?

Casey

Yes I did.

02-09-2011, 03:09 PM	#1
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	knuckle tight on c-hub Ok for some odd reason one on my knuckles the steering is real tight with just one screw. If I put the left side bottom screw in the steering gets tight, even if I just get the screw started. If I leave it out and just have the top one in the steering is real nice and smooth. The moment I start the bottom one it gets tight. Is there anything I can do to fix this.

02-09-2011, 03:33 PM	#3
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	No idea what c-hubs or knuckles are on it, as I bought it used. I know it has the CKRC BTA so I'm guessing the knuckles are CKRC. Here is what my set up looks like. Last edited by Wicked Klown; 02-09-2011 at 03:37 PM.

02-09-2011, 03:30 PM	#2
PipeDreams RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg Posts: 1,296	more detail about the rig... this is super common! Axle? which c's which knuckles ect!

02-09-2011, 03:40 PM	#4
PipeDreams RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg Posts: 1,296	HR C's it looks like. My guess is MIP cvd's? I'm betting the axle or bearing isn't seated all the way, something is bent or the axle joint is binding... If you take the top screw out and just do the bottom then the top does it still get tight with the bottom screw or only once you try doing the top? If you have no screws in does the axle joint turn smooth?

02-09-2011, 03:51 PM	#5
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	If I put the bottom one in first and do it finger tight. The steering is tight, have to back it off a little bit. IF I do this and start the top the steering gets tight again. Yes they are MIP cvds.

02-09-2011, 05:46 PM	#6
Highlucks Try to Bend it Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Perth Australia Posts: 3,163	The knuckles look like CKRC, make sure your cvds are pushed in as far as they go and the outer most bearing is seated properly. You may need to take the cvd's out and clean where they engage the locker with a piece of emery paper.

02-09-2011, 06:10 PM	#7
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	Seems I have it fixed for now. I took the c-hub off flipped it and put it back on. After that I was fine, it was on right to begin with. As it has scraps on the front now they are on the back and it works. I did however just order a set of VP Zero ackermann knuckles and a Jones'N BTA tie rod.

02-14-2011, 12:29 PM	#8
solomon7 Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Portland,OR Posts: 888	You have the flange pipe bushings that go in the "kingpin" holes, right? Just checking the basics first. I know some knuckles don't need them though.

02-14-2011, 01:03 PM	#9
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	Yep have those install. Just change over to VP zero ackermann knuckles and have the same problem. I have to install the screw then back it off just a tad to have it turn smoothly.

02-14-2011, 01:55 PM	#10
K.O.M. Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SF East Bay Posts: 451	This is a common problem, but relatively easy to solve. The answer lies with the flange pipe bushings--they are too short for 99% of the knuckles on the market. Add to that the different manufacturing variances, and you've got tight knuckles. I ideal solution is to have flange pipe bushings that are just slightly (.01-.02") longer than the knuckle mounts are thick (good luck). Short of that, you can shave just a few hundreths of the top and bottom of the knuckles that way when you screw it on the c-hub, the screws tighten against the flange pipe bushings and not sandwich the knuckles and flange pipe so that they are immovable.

02-14-2011, 02:10 PM	#11
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	I might have to do that, seems weird it's only on the one side.

02-14-2011, 02:12 PM	#12
CHU*D No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO Posts: 4,529	I have seen the VP High Clearance do this, and it's exactly what K.O.M is saying. I used a very thin washer between the bushing and C-hub. This gets the bushing to project a bit more out of the knuckle, so that the bolt hits the bushing and not the knuckle. It's a pain in the ass to assemble but can be done

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02-14-2011, 06:41 PM	#16
guapotaco Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Carbondale Posts: 98	i just fixed this problem yesterday, i had reused my axial flanges but had ordered more, i ended up with HPI flanges instead and not axial, they work so much better as they are a RCH(whats this?) longer so no washers or anything, i tried the washer fix but it only fixed one side, must have been worn more than i thought, all fixed and no bind at all with all new Hpi flanges, i will assume these wear as we drive and turn etc...the ones i had in were brass so i can imagine how soft they are, i think these new ones are aluminum

02-14-2011, 07:41 PM	#18
KC_JoNeS Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma Posts: 1,826	Hey Donald, I am curious...did you install the beef toobs in that axle? Casey

02-14-2011, 07:57 PM	#19
GRIMGREG Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 496	One side of mine is tight, I figured out when I swapped to overdrive gears that it is the Axial aluminum C. One side flops around easily, the other is tight, flipped to opposite side it is just the same but opposite. If I loosen the C on the axel tube it loosens right up. My guess is that the screw hole is milled just a hair off on that one C. I ground the inside of the out drive axel a little and it loosened a bit, think I'll just grind a little more.

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Thread: knuckle tight on c-hub