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Thread: UGC F4/fastback now with longer BEEF TOOBS, any fast back tops still out there???

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Old 07-08-2011, 09:03 AM   #21
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We need some sides for it and dont know what to use. Aluminum is the top and hood but dont want that on the sides I think it will not slide well at all.
If you wanted to stick with the metal theme, but want something that slides better than aluminum, you should check out what Highlucks did. His is a UGC Viper, but you get the idea. His stainless panels look great
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:03 PM   #22
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That rig looks pretty sick. That is a good way to go Ill have to hunt some down.
thanks for that link.

We had a comp this weekend and he spun the last piece of plastic in the transmission DOH! We got it fixed with another plastic but he needs run a an all metal geared trans.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:14 PM   #23
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http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...d=30&top_cat=1
There's some and it's a great deal!
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:34 PM   #24
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Love your tubes, nice job job on the build.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:58 AM   #25
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Those tubes are nice. What size brass tubing is that? Or do you turn them down?
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:17 PM   #26
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Those tubes are nice. What size brass tubing is that? Or do you turn them down?
I had them turned down, but I am sure you could use 7/16" round bar and be good to go. In order to get a straight hole through the center a lathe would be the only way to get it. I had them made so there is max material left on for max weight. If the hole was not perfect it would bind.

It started as solid brass rod, dont know if they make tube with a thick enough wall to make it work. That would be nice if there was tube out there that works.
Check this one there is more info on the pipes.
East End Machine SNG Droop
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:55 PM   #27
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I got some VP stuff for it. I dont know if it helps or not, kinda makes the rig feel top heavy.

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Old 08-07-2011, 02:01 AM   #28
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No one thought the vanquish asprin was funny?



Got a new toy.




Also I have a VP dig that is going in soon.
It is set up so well right now that I wish I could install it with out changing the CG.

It can honestly can pull off a line (ill work on a video clip) with no dig that so far 3 other rigs either cant get it or have to use dig.
one is a shafty the other 2 are XRs. nothing ground breaking but that line always impresses the hell out of me.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:01 AM   #29
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I get the joke now

Wow a comm lathe! Nice job, should keep the motors running a good long time!

Sounds like my rig, it's all in the setup and driving execution, not the DIG and weights!
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:22 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by durrty View Post
I got some VP stuff for it. I dont know if it helps or not, kinda makes the rig feel top heavy.


I needed this after realizing how much I sent them for my XR-10
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:38 AM   #31
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Got tired of breaking axles everytime out. The 16t HH crawlmaster has plenty of power to go around...

going to install XR10 axles and some of KC jones LONGer beef toobs



originally I cut and welded a XR shaft to see if I could do and I did and it worked out but the wider width is going to help out so I left the shafts alone.



The toobs are nice right out of the box, all they need is holes drilled and tapped to secure them to the axle. They make this mod so easy.






Fit up check...



I have a set of berg offset mayhem wheels and some CW crawler wheels with adjustable offset if I want it narrower. Starting with stock AX10 offset wheels.
more to come.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:52 PM   #32
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I'm thinking of doing the longer beef tubes n my SSS-R. I need more servo/battery clearance. I'm concerned with the huge offset difference front to rear though. I typically run a narrower rear track, but eh...

Can you post up some top down pics showing the track width difference while running the same wheels from to back?
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:46 PM   #33
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I can do that.. very soon too
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:50 PM   #34
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FYI, the toobs are 11mm wider each side wich is just short of a 1/2".

with stock ax10 wheel offset that makes it about an inch wider. I thought it was going to be too wide and drag the diff a lot, but it worked out. Ill get some pictures up soon so you can see.

Since you have Calvin's wheels you can make it whatever width you want too.
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:52 PM   #35
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I only have Calvin's wheel on my XR right now. I run some JunFac wideners on my SSS-R right now to get a little extra width.. Right now, my tires stuff the battery & servo due to the high clock ping I run. I figure going to the longer tubes will give me more clearance, and allow me to run the same size battery in both my rigs. But yeah, pics will help
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:24 PM   #36
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here are a couple, more to come.






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Old 09-05-2011, 08:25 PM   #37
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miles of room for the tires to turn and not hit the shocks or links and room for whatever is on top of the axle.


EDIT! I just saw there is no support under that servo/battery plate. ooops. He ran like that for a couple batteries too.

Last edited by durrty; 09-05-2011 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:13 PM   #38
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After chatting to you, when I get the gear, I'm going to totally do this to my rig cheaper than s300 and God forbid anything goes wrong it's an easy fix

I run my battery/servo tray without spacers and "yet" to have issues
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:42 PM   #39
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THat doesn't look too bad.

I don't have spacers under my plate either, but the rx kinda supposrts the servo side. Which IMO is tha more imporatant side to support.
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:43 AM   #40
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zero ackerman would give me more!!

home made steer arm. ended up not using the drag link this way. Just going through options. It fits perfect under the axle






grind out the chub a little





I bolted the housing together as much as I could before I drilled the toobs out.
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