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Old 05-20-2011, 01:41 AM   #101
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So I went to Tammies today and got a VP Case and motor plate to butcher up. Tired of nuking bearings, and I am past the proto stage. Concept works, now time to stop d!cking around.






I also needed to make a new shaft. Had these links that were a RCH too large. So they went in the drill press and some sand paper on high speed brought em down nice and tight




Then I drilled and punched in the pin. The pin needed to be punched in because the bit was the same diameter.



Grove cut on the shaft and flat spots grinded for the yolks







Motor plate cut. Forgot to grab pics of drilling the hole through the housing.





I chose red and I am glad. Looks like a heart.




Lastly, I took and bent some front links. Should help break overs a little
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:56 AM   #102
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Dang, the vp case looks awesome as a tranny. Nice job on the new install. I love seeing people use tools and actually make stuff in aBUILD thread. Im so tired of seeing all the "I spent more money than you and bolted on a huge pile of shit out of plastic bags" builds that seem to be the norm nowadays



EDIT: whats the deal with the 2 bolts on the upper part of the tranny and the little plate they are holding?
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:59 AM   #103
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Did you put a bearing in the case side as well or are you just letting the shaft ride on the case? Do you have room to drill out large enough for a flanged bearing on the case side? I hope you don't mind me duplicating the FSJ and tweaking it a bit for my purposes. I intend on pushing the shafts out further and having holes for T-maxx outputs. Actually, I'm just using an output shaft from a T-maxx transmission...we'll see how it works. Great idea on the FSJ by the way, pure genius.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:21 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highlandcrawler View Post
Dang, the vp case looks awesome as a tranny. Nice job on the new install. I love seeing people use tools and actually make stuff in aBUILD thread. Im so tired of seeing all the "I spent more money than you and bolted on a huge pile of shit out of plastic bags" builds that seem to be the norm nowadays



EDIT: whats the deal with the 2 bolts on the upper part of the tranny and the little plate they are holding?
Thanks dood. I fully agree with ya. Tired of these "Build Threads" that really should only be considered a part of an AX-10 pic gallery lol.

That bracket was the old cross brace in this pic. But now I don't need it, since the case is aluminum, and doesnt flex.



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Did you put a bearing in the case side as well or are you just letting the shaft ride on the case? Do you have room to drill out large enough for a flanged bearing on the case side? I hope you don't mind me duplicating the FSJ and tweaking it a bit for my purposes. I intend on pushing the shafts out further and having holes for T-maxx outputs. Actually, I'm just using an output shaft from a T-maxx transmission...we'll see how it works. Great idea on the FSJ by the way, pure genius.

I just drilled a hole big enough for the shaft to punch through, and kept the bearing in it's place.
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:50 PM   #105
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What locker are you using in the front?
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:35 PM   #106
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Just an axial iron cross steel one. Using one in the rear also
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Old 05-21-2011, 01:04 PM   #107
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Got a chance to sneak out and drive a couple packs before dark. This is the only pic I got of it. And yes it's that vertical, and yes, I made it I named the climb Woodys Crack. Locals pry know what thats about


Every time I drive her, she impresses me. I was sticking lines yesterday that I have always had to work hard at with an MOA and dig. Simply a blast to drive

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Old 05-21-2011, 01:26 PM   #108
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Hello,

I have a AX10 with a very similar configuration, with the engine in front of tranny. But I use R2 (with dig). I put myself a question since one moment by reading your post very interesting. Which is the interest (or the advantages) to use elements of one XR-10 instead of R2? The weight? Volume?

Sorry if the question with already posted

Thanks

Last edited by TotoRax; 05-21-2011 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:46 PM   #109
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I used it for 2 reasons. 1: I just wanted to do something unique and different. Plus axial parts are easy to get. 2: I don't trust rc4wd's quality. Those trannys are noise too!
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:57 PM   #110
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Did you make a plate for the open bottom of the gearbox like you did on the plastic case? It sure is nice to get rid of the big Axial spur gear.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:23 AM   #111
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Hello,

They is two excellent reasons

It is true that the R2 is very very noisy

Thanks

Last edited by TotoRax; 05-22-2011 at 05:32 AM.
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Old 05-22-2011, 01:59 PM   #112
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Did you make a plate for the open bottom of the gearbox like you did on the plastic case? It sure is nice to get rid of the big Axial spur gear.
No, I just bolted it in. Didn't need to with the aluminum case. Plus, it dropped the trans an RCH too, so that's good
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #113
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this is probably the coolest thing I've ever seen. I want to do this to an axle so bad, but I want to keep the XR axle's width to get a wider overall end result. Do you think this would be do-able given your experiences with the XR parts?

Also LOVEEE the frontside jones tranny too. Such a good idea!
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Old 05-23-2011, 01:40 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by yjdavid View Post
this is probably the coolest thing I've ever seen. I want to do this to an axle so bad, but I want to keep the XR axle's width to get a wider overall end result. Do you think this would be do-able given your experiences with the XR parts?

Are you asking if it's possible to make an AX10 as wide as an XR? Probably, but you would need to either use a widener, or make some custom tubes to put it out where it should be.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:42 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjdavid View Post

this is probably the coolest thing I've ever seen. I want to do this to an axle so bad, but I want to keep the XR axle's width to get a wider overall end result. Do you think this would be do-able given your experiences with the XR parts?

Also LOVEEE the frontside jones tranny too. Such a good idea!
Hey man, check out the longer beef toob thread in the general crawlers section. These should help you acheive your goal once they become available.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:42 PM   #116
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I am truly inspired by your build. I'm going to be starting an narrow OG Frogger build and thankfully got to see, due to your build that I can in fact use the XR10 stuff up front. I love the trans. just awesome, don't think I'll be building one but it's great to see another low CG option. To the OP talking about the R2, I just picked up a used rig with the R2d and it's noisy and slow as hell. I still got to try some different pinions, it's got a 10t and it doesn't even come close to the wheel speed of my GC3A with a 14t and crappy integy 55turn.

On another note you can't knock people for building stuff from off the shelf parts, you've more than likely been at this for awhile and some folks just don't have the tinkering gene installed. Mind you at some time you have to start modding stuff off the shelf not only to be different but with so many options (pinion angle, castor clocking, ride hieght, link placement and so on) you really shouldn't just bolt stuff together. I started building my first crawler about 6-7 months ago and I'm already on the 4th rig which I will start a build thread on hopefully by the end of the week, I only hope it works as good as the "la licorne fatale"
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:02 PM   #117
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For R2, it is necessary to use +12t. Less than 12t, they is true snails
With 3S liPo, 40T motor and 14T pinions, It is a good compromise between speed and torque

Your steering angle is incredible
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:40 PM   #118
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Chris how come you are using glued rims instead of bead locks?
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:55 PM   #119
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Chris how come you are using glued rims instead of bead locks?
Well originally it was because I didn't want to spend a bunch of extra money to prove the concept(trans). Figured some rovers with dual stage foams would drive well enough to test with. But the project has snowballed lol. Now its more so for weight savings. I may pony up on some slw's. But money is thin these days for toys. I would rather spend it on the new lady friend than toys



So I drove it some more tonight and found some changes that definitely need to be made. The shocks are uber lame. A buddy is running scx10 shocks with mini t springs and they're sooooooo nice. So I am going to put some of those on, and she should handle much mo betta. She might get some slw's and super softly foamed cut boss claws too.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:00 PM   #120
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Fair enough, function over form is always the best policy. That said though you killed the pig at the qualifier, so it does not matter. Its just a shame that function and form is so expensive.

Have you considered big bores with mini T's. They are very, very smooth with a small canister diametre
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