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Thread: Scrappy Frog - The Poison Dart

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Old 05-06-2011, 12:51 AM   #61
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My Chisel tires are by far the hardest tires to mount to a wheel. Perhaps the Proline guys made the rims and tires to be "that way."

However, mounting my Sedonas and Rovers onto other wheels (I have B.A.M. wheels and Mayhem double phatties) was super easy.

Casey

Last edited by KC_JoNeS; 05-06-2011 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:53 AM   #62
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Well...

In the last pic i noticed those Sedonas are narrower than mine. For the moment i will try to use what i have, no money left to buy new wheels. What wheels do you recommend ? (dont want some pro stuff though...)
The pic makes the tires look narrow, only because he has the tires mounted to super skinny wheels, thus pulling the sidewalls in.

First off, if you want new wheels, we can recommend tons of things. But first, try to give us a budget.

Casey
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:55 AM   #63
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Don't worry Jimmy, Calvin just likes to pump his ego when he gets the chance.
It is called "post padding" in an attempt to get more sales.


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Old 05-06-2011, 01:02 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS View Post
The pic makes the tires look narrow, only because he has the tires mounted to super skinny wheels, thus pulling the sidewalls in.

First off, if you want new wheels, we can recommend tons of things. But first, try to give us a budget.

Casey
In that photo I am running my .875" wide rims with *STOCK* foams... they are home-brews that Duuuuude is running on his Fastback. His are 1" per-request The tires in the rear are worn out, "sliced" Rovers also on stock foams on 1" rims...

As for rims, I made my own and really like them so they are all I can speak for and I will leave it at that... I have heard good results from VP rims but they maybe a little beyond your budget range.
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:11 AM   #65
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Difficult to estimate a budget. Very. For me Vanquish wheels is quite expensive, as an example. Comp level here is low -> 0, so there is no need to have pro-stuff. What i want to say....pointless to spend 100$/pair, if i run them on my backyard or in a God forsaken place, where only 2 persons would be: me and myself...:d

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-06-2011 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:15 AM   #66
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When Eritex Inc. Starts production again have a look at his Comp Heavies or Solids. at around $35 per pair plus postage they are a very reasonable high quality wheel. He is also willing to do extra machining to take some weight out of them.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:05 AM   #67
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Ordered Solids from Eritex. Hope i made a good choice. I noticed something today though....when using the Venom wheels, no matter the tyre and how strong the servo is, the steering is not as it should be. So, indeed, a narrow wheel will help in the steering issue.

I rewired Scrappy today, in a special manner: i made connection wires so that i can easily take out the RX and use it on the other 2 crawlers that i have (the Green Bitch - Ax10 Bender CHasis and stock XR10). And that's about it...needs just some drivin'
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Old 05-07-2011, 03:29 PM   #68
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New stressing test performed on o high traction surface (aka Cisnadie, i'll explain later) revealed that the titanium pins last until they brake In 3 f...ing pieces. W T F ? 3 pieces ?!

(Explaining note: Cisnadie is a well known carpet factory from my country; it's known for it's finest quality products, and for being a pin breaker )

So a few questions appear....

a) Am I the most unlucky guy around ?
b) The breakage occured using Venom wheels, Proline wheel weights (those that come with the Titus Proline 2.2) and HB Rover (white dot). Could the wheel weights be way to big for the Axial CVD's?
c) shall i quit performing tests of a high traction surface ?

The pins failed when using Dig unit, and steering left/right at full. Also noticed something...even the EPA is set to 50% (let's assume), when i move backwards or use the dig unit, that EPA set is completely ignored somehow. That bothers me when the tyre rubbs on the shock.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:51 PM   #69
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What titanium pins are you talking about?

My 3Racing CVDs hold up awesome with gunnar pins. You should pay gunnar a couple dollars to send you some Axial pins. They are beefy.

Casey
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:29 PM   #70
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Talking about those. The drill i used is Bosch Titanium 1.5mm.
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:15 AM   #71
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Talking about those. The drill i used is Bosch Titanium 1.5mm.
Sadly that isn't a titanium drill bit. It is more likely than not High Speed Steel {HSS} with a Titanium Nitride coating... hence the "titanium" name. Nothing wrong with HSS pins at all. You just got to be careful cutting material that tiny with a roto tool to keep the piece from getting hot and loosing temper. Sorry to burst your drill bit bubble
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:30 AM   #72
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Today i will roll on the rocks, will see what happens.

Later edit:

Just returned after 20 minutes of running Scrappy on the rocks....so:

a) Broken front drive shaft (JunFac). That would be the 3rd one.
b) The rocks where i test the model form an mega-extreme terrain

With all these, Scrappy is an excelent climber, but i'm afraid that if those failures keep repeating, i might shut down this project. Too expensive *. I have two driveshafts left from my scaler (SCX10), if those two fail, this thread will be closed.

LLE: * Too expensive is refered here as the amount of time and money spent to set it up compared to the amount of time spent on the rocks.

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-08-2011 at 06:46 AM.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:11 AM   #73
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Hey man Is it the pins that keep breaking. If so hit up gunnar for some super cheap super strong replacements.
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:21 PM   #74
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Paid Gunnar for a few pairs of pins, they wont be here in time for the contest. Doesn't matter anyway, not so thilled about it...just wanna have a good rig...
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:53 PM   #75
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Hey Jimmy,

I put Gunnars pins in my rig when I built the axles. Everything I have heard they are Awesome. I think those Titanium drill bits are too hard. I broke mine the other day on my "OG".
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:03 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by DRV KRAWLER View Post
Hey Jimmy,

I put Gunnars pins in my rig when I built the axles. Everything I have heard they are Awesome. I think those Titanium drill bits are too hard. I broke mine the other day on my "OG".

So, you tried my way, with the drill bits. If i got it right

LE: Just realising something...the stock pinion is 20T....i use 14T...so i got some extra torque....not good.....

Last edited by jimmyshor; 05-08-2011 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:39 PM   #77
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I did the same repair with the drill bit but, it was on a Junfac rear drive shaft. And it broke worse than the stock pin, almost shattered like glass. The Gunnars don't look like anything great but, the reputation is stellar. They have a great reputation nothing but great reviews.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:52 PM   #78
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So i've heard, i just wanna see them in action. Dont care about the aspect or commercial looks.
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:51 PM   #79
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I have gunnar pins in my axial CVDs and there are great!

I have run close to 30 3s packs into my pro-class rig with junfac shafts and have had zero issues.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:19 PM   #80
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'Till the pins arrive, i have a comp to go to...so, doing a little research, i used my Dremel and got this....



What i did today:

a) grinded (?) the stock Axial cups
b) reduced the steering amount ("hardware way")

Regarding a) it still needs a few adjustemens, but it works like a breeze...i can do a full turning (360 degrees) with the dig activated, on a carpet - nothing broken. Previous attempt - 2 pins broke. Please note that the surface is a high traction surface, and i used Venom wheels and Sedona Tyres with Proline wheel weights....i think that is a lot of stress.

Regarding b) i drilled the steering bar and fixed some spacers there (pictures to come soon). The steering is not reduced by much, though...

PS. There is a thread called Licorne Fatale.....before the hardware limitation, my steering was about the same. In my opinion...too much....
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