Axial transmission steel spur?

[dhyde79]

I'm looking for a steel spur that'll mount up to the slipper clutch, or that comes with a slipper that'll mount up to the axial transmission.

Any help would be greatly appreciated....the slipper is an absolute must, as it's going to save the rest of my driveline....

[PowerCrazy]

I have an aluminum spur and its wearing out much faster than the plastic ones. I have heard that the metal ones wear faster than the plastic ones and the spur gear is the perfect "weak link" since they are so cheap. That being said I havnt stripped on out on 4s brushless yet but I did strip out a diff yesterday

[dhyde79]

Yeah, I can see an aluminum one wearing fast, that's why I want a steel one....as far as breaking other stuff, use a slipper and back it off about 1/4 turn and it'll let that be your slip point instead of something breaking

[cagedcbr]

I've never used an aluminum spur on a crawler but I do have Ti Ni coated aluminum gears on my 1/8 LST. I had plastic gears on the truck for nearly 3 years and never had a problem with them until I took out one side of the truck on a curb. I've had maybe 3 tanks through my truck (2 plus HP nitro motor) and the aluminum is showing more wear than the plastic after 3 years.

[PowerCrazy]

Yeah I have noticed the same thing. From what I have read the steel ones wear faster also just the teeth never strip off. The metal also makes it very loud. it will also raise your center of gravity. I'm sure there are some steel ones around though if you do a google search. I dont use a slipper as I want full power available at all times.

[cagedcbr]

I guess it all depends on preference but I bend spring steel cvd pins almost everyday but I'm still on the same spur gear I got with my OG AX10. It's been in 3 crawlers now. Has anyone tried how well a RRP machined while hold up, I think they are a little thinner than the Axial gear?

[kmnss]

If you set your mesh right, there's no need for a metal spur gear.

[dhyde79]

I've had spur gears give out too often, and the way my rig is built I would rather not have to mess with the spur and having to replace it...and the center of gravity isn't an issue, the motor sits higher than the spur, and is a much larger motor. Having the steel spur would actually add weight right above the skid since my transmission sits on it's side.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by dhyde79

I've had spur gears give out too often, and the way my rig is built I would rather not have to mess with the spur and having to replace it...and the center of gravity isn't an issue, the motor sits higher than the spur, and is a much larger motor. Having the steel spur would actually add weight right above the skid since my transmission sits on it's side.

If you're saying that you've blown plastic spur gears while using a slipper, you're going something way wrong.

I had two years on a stock spur, no slipper. Never broke anything other than an output and a couple of blown driveshafts. Fixed those, and now the only time I break something is if I really push too hard.

[MG200]

Switching to 32pitch could be a option.

[new2this]

I have never stripped one out either, check your motor spacing.

[dhyde79]

Not strip, break....this motor is a torque monster, when running on 6s in the savagexl it would break the spur gear itself, not the teeth but the gear. I was trying to prevent the same on this.....

[Super]

If you are running a slipper and it breaks it's obviously not loose enough. IMHO I think you've been doing something wrong. Check to see if your motor plate is flexing or something. I would think that the gear should strip before it would break. If you make that part stronger you are probably going to break input or out put shafts.

Good luck.

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by dhyde79

Not strip, break....this motor is a torque monster, when running on 6s in the savagexl it would break the spur gear itself, not the teeth but the gear. I was trying to prevent the same on this.....

Ahhhh thats the problem right there. If you are hooking a huge 1/8 scale system with 6s power to an axial tranny something is gonna give. Even a metal spur is not gonna fix the fact that you are plainly overpowering the trans with that size of motor. Best you can hope for is to build it with all metal gears and an alum. case and just hope for the best.

[dhyde79]

ahh but I'm NOT running 6S to it, I'm running 3S to it, I just want a steel spur as a safety precaution....the way I have the motor mounted is an utter pain in the tail to disassemble to try to change a spur, it's not like before when it was loosen the nut, pull it off, put the new one on, lock the nut back down....it's drop the skid and lower links, pull the motor off of its mount from the tranny then do the normal change and then reverse it all....what used to be a 5 minute job is about a 45 minute job...I haven't had any signs of breakage or chewing anything up (other than when the driveline siezed because of a stupid MIP CVD pin snapping...but that was the last MIP one to go now it's all the HD Axial ones so, hopefully we're in much better shape there.

I'd actually like to figure out a way to put a very stiff differential in the final gear on the transmission, so that if the front is bound the rear can still turn or vice versa....I'm not sure how much work would be involved there though....I have a hunch it'd be much harder to do than what it would be worth...and actually it'd have to be only on the front or it'd undermine the rear dig....