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Thread: My AX10 build: Stock to Fastback II

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Old 07-16-2011, 06:05 AM   #1
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Default My AX10 build: Stock to Fastback II

Updated many posts with new pictures and info aug 7/2011.

This thread will document my experience from stock AX to custom. Hopefully it will help new people starting out.I will add info that I have learned along the way.


Stock(2nd pic is right out of the box)


I will document and put my opinions out there to answer the questions I had starting this journey a few months ago. I am no expert and still have much to learn.

I researched a lot before buying an AX 10. Initially I wanted a inexpensive crawler, but wanted hobby quality with good aftermarket upgrades . I took advice from many here and Bought the Ax 10 Axial. I still try to do this on a budget but I have splurged when I thought it was worth it. To date I have upgraded quite a few parts but no stock part has ever broke! Pretty impressive for Axial. I am really glad i chose the Axial. One strong reason I bought this over Losi was extended runtime with driveshaft vs screw drive.


Stock and having fun !

Leaning to make links. One of the first and best upgrades is steering servo and aluminum links for the steering. Trying to get as good as possible but being economical I bought Savox servo for $39 way better than stock. It steers much more accuratly with these changes. The rear upper links are 6/32 allthread with bic pen bodies covering up the all thread.

One of the other best upgrade was tires. I picked up a slightly used set of white dot rovers. They are larger than the stock proline hammers and look very cool. They work much better on new England rocks! The compound is much softer and it grips the rocks.I am using stock foams with 1 1/8 hole drilled in all rims. I might like to try some memory foams in the front.

I also picked up a castle link cord to program stock ESC AE2. That helped quite s bit to set drag brake and braking power. Braking is set at 80 percent Drag At 100 percent. I really like castel creations ECS and ability to program them on a computer.

I bought some delrin off Amazon and made links. Not really necessary until I changed frames. I think the stock links are very good. I have four linked the rear,I read that it articulates smoother , but making my own links with 6/32 allthread from lowes at 98 cents works great and allows me to set up pinion angle properly and overall seems to make the whle rig seem more solid feeling. The 6/32 fits the stock plastic ends.
For the lower rods I use 8/32 and jato ends from traxxes.

The stock driveshafts have not broke. I've run them four months. I will be upgrading to MIPs soon. Only because I changed to Fastback II and can use a longer rear driveshaft.I switched to the fastbackII becuse it looked great and has a good reputation for crawling and I hated the stock body,I was always losing cotter pins and it was hard to see what thr suspension was doing. Now there is no body to obscure the view.

I also am running the stock shocks with lighter springs in the rear,it is working great.front is still stock,and works well,I might change them to a bit softer.Stock oil is still used ,no problems with shocks. Front springs are Axial 1.71 lbs/in. I will be testing 8/8/11.


FastbackII kit






Making permanent lower links. I tried by hand and worked ok. I have a friend with a lathe,they came out perfectly centered!


Temporary sheet metal panels for testing. I think they look cool for now.I am going to attemp some body panels from Lexan(abbout 2 buck at lowes)


The front is also 4 link and I have switched to Lipo. very nice improvement.I am using blue lipos 20c 1300Mah I am getting over an hour of crawl time.Each battery was $6.95.I picked up a venom charger balencer for 5 bucks on the used boards.Works great.Much lighter than my 3800mah stick pack.Again I am trying to keep costs down.

Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-08-2011 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:04 PM   #2
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Lookin good

While you're at it, you might wanna look into mirroring your tranny. Since you're going MIP, be sure to get the shafts for ax10 w/ dig, and use the short shaft for the front.
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:43 PM   #3
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What length lower links and shocks are you fasty runners runnin?

Just got mine and need a ballpark number to start with.
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:05 PM   #4
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I'm not sure of the exact length at the moment, but DickeyT's build thread give dimensions that will get you the comp legal wheelbase needed.
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:33 PM   #5
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Mr Crawl

I took Dickys advice and am running 4 1/4 front,5 1/16 rear. It is working great. Crawled a lot today and was very impressed. I used5/16 delrin lowers. This allowed me to use stock shafts until my MIPs arrive.

Shocks are stock 4 inch IIRC.They are working well.No complaints

Last edited by paul6ppca; 07-18-2011 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by version_three View Post
Lookin good

While you're at it, you might wanna look into mirroring your tranny. Since you're going MIP, be sure to get the shafts for ax10 w/ dig, and use the short shaft for the front.
What is the advantage of mirroring tranny?

I added more pics and text to the 1st post.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul6ppca View Post
What is the advantage of mirroring tranny?
This should help: Mirror Imaged Transmission

Of course your tranny config options are more limited if you plan on running dig...
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:34 PM   #8
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Looks great so far

Swapping your transmission gets the weight of the motor on the right hand side. This helps with the effects of torque twist. Also if you ever plan to run dig, you will be all set since they are all designed to run on the left hand side.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:07 PM   #9
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Coming along nicely! What is your shock eye to eye length? They look a little on the long side. 4" is ideal for the chassis.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:21 PM   #10
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Thanks for the encouragement guys.

The shocks are stock,I thought they were 4 inches but I will check.

Some photos from tonights with new homemade skins.

A few quick shots on the test track in the yard. It ran great tonight. Tomorrow the MIPS will be here

MIPS on
The mips are built like a tank! fit was great. My main reason for purchasing them was because I lenghtened the rear on the FBII frame. I was concerned that stock driveshaft would be too short and wear/break. Once aprt the stock driveshaft fit well, and would not have broke due to being longer,there was plenty of shaft overlap if you will. Still the plastic dogears would have failed eventually. Just another testimony to quality of the stock axial! Now with mips I dont see them failing.
I did some reading on the mips grease or not to grease.Many say grease attracts dirt like a magnet.So I used Remmington dry lube. seems to lubricate fine.
Still need to make side panels.

Testing the MIPS


They are great!

I got the standard lenghts from CKRC working length of 4” .350 & max. working length of 5”.350 from end to end. I measured mine 120mm (4.7 inches IIRC) I do not plan on putting in a dig at this point so i did not order the shorter MIPS.


MIP Drive Shafts for Axial AX10 Scorpion (2)



Technical information: The C-Drive has 5mm bore at each end & min. working length of 4” .350 & max. working length of 5”.350 from end to end.


Includes: 2 drivelines


Dicky ,you are right the shocks are 4 1/4 inch. What is the best way to shorten them or so I Need to buy new shocks.

Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-03-2011 at 07:53 AM. Reason: added tech info
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:38 AM   #11
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Progess this week is slow.
I did strip the green annodizing off the beadlocks ( I used purple power worked great, I poured PP in a old store plastic container and let them soak for 10 min agitate and repeat till all the annodizing is removed. It took me an hour till i was satisfied. Dont forget to rinse them well with water. I feel this is a safer way than draino or oven cleaner.My way had no fumes!) I am going to paint them.
Black with some metal flake! see below.My rig looks much more custom.

I sanded them with 600 grit ,then primed,them 2 coats metallic paint.Came out great. They seem to hold up well after a few practice crawls.If you wanted they could be clear coated for added protection.










Also going to lenghten upper links to get better angle on the MiPs, New links made!

Move the esc -Done moved under roof,rewired.

New links better smoother articulation.

New pics posted! I finished beadlocks .(Rust-Oleum 7250830 Metallic Spray, Black Night)

Plans for the upcoming weeks
Softer 1.71 lbs/in are on thier way! I think this will help articulation at slower speeds. Now that there is much less wieght w/o nicad 6 cell pack on the front end.
Also I am planning on mirroring the transmission when I get a 35T motor.

Make some side panels.

The roof and hood are lexan from lowes.I managed to crack the hood on the first trip!
I moved theESc to under the roof,front seems to move more smoothly.Need to get out and test.

Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-03-2011 at 12:24 PM. Reason: details on removing annodizing.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul6ppca View Post
Progess this week is slow, time is short. I did strip the green annodizing off the beadlocks ( I used purple power worked great, no fumes), I am going to paint them. Black with some metal flake!

Also going to lenghten upper links to get better angle on the MiPs, move the esc , I think it is too close to the shocks and restricting smooth articulation, possibly run some softer springs in front. Can anyone tell me the difference between 70 mmspring and 90 mm spring that are both axial red? Maybe I will look into a nice progressive spring.

Plans for the upcoming weeks;

I will post pics of the finished beadlock soon as they are done.(Rust-Oleum 7250830 Metallic Spray, Black Night)

Also I am planning on mirroring the transmission.

Make some side panels.

The roof and hood are lexan from lowes.I managed to crack the hood on the first trip!
Sounds like some good progress coming up.

The 70mm springs are shorter than the 90mm of coarse but both are the same spring rate stiffness.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:42 AM   #13
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you can limit your shocks by putting some fuel tubing over your shock shaft on the INSIDE of the shock body. That will limit how far they can extend.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:36 AM   #14
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Some progress the beadlocks are done. Two are mounted.
Also moved the ESC and reran all the wires. Now the front articulates better. Still going to try some softer springs.
1.71 lbs/inch Axial srings on the way. Without the plastic V shaped tray it articulates smoother throut its travel.

Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-03-2011 at 08:01 AM. Reason: progress update
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:22 AM   #15
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Good thread these are all things im looking to do to my stock ax10.. been pimping out my losi first, now thats done ax10 is my new project

Great build thread ( lots of pics)

Last edited by davidmcox; 07-31-2011 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:55 PM   #16
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Ride height before new springs. I plan to limit the fronts for better ride height.
Action shots
New changes,stripped and painted beadlock,but the real change is 2 more ounces of weightin rt front wheel,lengthened and adjusted upper links.This helped with driveshaft angle and squat.preloaded the back left shock.all this made it much more stable.





Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-05-2011 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 05:47 PM   #17
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New side panel and new softer 90mm 1.171lb/in Axial springs[IMG]http://tapatalk.com/mu/4409ec1c-7507-d525.jpg[/IMG
Last side panel made

King if the hill


Now if the rain would stop I could get some testing.

Front four link

Let me know what you think!

Last edited by paul6ppca; 08-16-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:19 PM   #18
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Build looks great Paul ! I hope the springs are going to work out the way you want. Looks to me we had about the same weight on our rigs and they worked great for my "OG Frogger" ! The reason I let them go is I went with Mini T springs.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:25 PM   #19
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Needs larger pictures man, can't see very well.

looks good.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:06 AM   #20
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I'm liking the look, man. I really need to sit down and start finding some goodies for my AX.
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