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Thread: another ax10 build, it's a 2.2 esse

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Old 09-30-2011, 10:45 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Tanis View Post
Nah, he's good. My front driveshaft has more angle, but the opposite way...pointing at the ground with no issues
Thomas did that on his Fastback and it survived and I got his axles and the universals were still good

I never noticed your "D-link style" rear mount, good thinking man! That must help a lot with suspension cycles

Im anxious for some VIDEOS {sorry im impatient and I need to run my rig }
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:03 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by opek View Post
The universal does not bind. The rear struts are almost 100% sprung, so the pinion angle only improves as the suspension cycles.
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Nah, he's good. My front driveshaft has more angle, but the opposite way...pointing at the ground with no issues
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Thomas did that on his Fastback and it survived and I got his axles and the universals were still good
Oh, okay. I was just remembering tidbits from my 1:1 training where the reccomendation was to have the pinion as parallel as possible to the trans output shaft. Now that I think of it, that might have related to CV joints, not a simple U joint, and may have been for NVH concerns. But with these things not designed for taking passengers, I would guess noise-vibration-and harshness aren't much to worry about.

Very well, then. Carry on.

Did I see that right? There's going to be a video up on here pretty soon?
(j/k......... though if you did want to put up a video, that'd be cool, too.)
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:53 PM   #43
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Oh, okay. I was just remembering tidbits from my 1:1 training where the reccomendation was to have the pinion as parallel as possible to the trans output shaft. Now that I think of it, that might have related to CV joints, not a simple U joint, and may have been for NVH concerns. But with these things not designed for taking passengers, I would guess noise-vibration-and harshness aren't much to worry about.

Very well, then. Carry on.

Did I see that right? There's going to be a video up on here pretty soon?
(j/k......... though if you did want to put up a video, that'd be cool, too.)
Ya, the straighter the angle the less strain on parts and smoother it will be, but like you say, we're not riding in it
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:25 PM   #44
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So I have the steering mostly figured out. I was only able to achieve the ackerman I desired at lock with a bit of toe out at rest. I still need to rock the knuckles back for some more caster, which should help reduce the toe. I wanted toe in, but my head hurts a bit too much from thinking about all this ackerman. I'll let it sit for a bit while all that info percolates in the back of my head.

The upper rear links were bending really badly in binds and would cause the universal in the axle to approach 90*. Not too good for torque twist. After a few packs it was twisting up under heavy throttle and on simple climbs. I've replaced them with allthread links. The fronts are going to be (already are) the same story, and I will have to remake them soon.

New skid and whatnot coming in the near future, but as lopsided as it sits climbing over some hilarious shit is not too much of a problem. It's a real pleasure to drive.

Thanks again to everyone that has helped, offered criticism, and guided me through this process. I appreciate it greatly. The first comp should be coming up at the end of the month and I am super excited to see what properly built rigs will do!


Edit: I am running beg offset on the front. I will either need to figure out some wideners for the front or pick up another pair of wheels. I am not feeling dremeling the stock ones. :( That should let me widen the front shocks and hopefully take the SDS cv's to their limit. BTA may be in the future if I end up super bored, I can not figure out how to achieve what I want with what I have and the knuckles facing forward.

Oh and a wider front would get my tire off of my battery!
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Last edited by opek; 10-03-2011 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:26 AM   #45
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you are probably running a bit much toe out and over thinking alot in the steering dept.

If you haven't clocked your axle C's then you should do that before the comp

I'd also run a straight steering link, you don't want that bending from a tumble

I wouldn't run the berg offset wheels, they will kill side hilling, use the stock ones, or borrow some that will work.

Last edited by nappahdog; 10-03-2011 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:36 PM   #46
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you are probably running a bit much toe out and over thinking alot in the steering dept.

If you haven't clocked your axle C's then you should do that before the comp

I'd also run a straight steering link, you don't want that bending from a tumble

I wouldn't run the berg offset wheels, they will kill side hilling, use the stock ones, or borrow some that will work.

I have to agree with just about everything you've posted. I have a set of stock wheels I swap out to the front, but the tire behaves a bit differently since it's a 1.25" wheel. As far as a straight steering link goes, there is no way I will be able to approach lock and use something straight. More caster is definitely in the near future!

As of yet steering on the rocks has not been an issue at all, the truck tracks exactly where I tell it so long as there is traction and the damn thing hasn't toppled over.

I siped the front tires this morning, and I'm hoping that will help me get up a few lines where the front has been washing out. I'm not sure if I want to stiffen the back up even more in an attempt to keep the front planted.

Le sigh. It tends to lift the upper front tire when climbing up an off camber section. It is especially difficult to keep traction on the front tires when climbing up and to the left. Sup torque twist?

What would cause me to be browning out? I probably fight a brown out 3-5 times per pack. It only happens when the front tires are all bound up, but I will suddenly lose all steering. The only way to fix it is to move the truck with the throttle, then steering comes back online. My servo gets hot as all ****ing hell, just about as hot as something can get which I can comfortably touch. I have a HH BRXL and the servo has not been upvolted.

Last edited by opek; 10-03-2011 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #47
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Looking good.
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:32 PM   #48
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Thanks! It's feeling pretty good too

Here are a few videos from today. You asked for them so I shot them. My camera is older than youtube and probably makes your cell phone look like a pentax. The angles sucked and I'm sure a few people who have been there will recognize these as easy lines, but this was just so impressive for me!

My favorite poser shot is included.

I have never had a problem embedding videos until now! Click this link to see them! http://www.youtube.com/user/polyshane#p/u

This particular video shows a line that I was only able to make once out of 30 or so attempts yesterday. After siping the front tires it was almost impossible not to make. This is my roommate driving. Before it would slide down where the truck slides, but it wouldn't catch. If you are a bit smoother driving up it you wont slide nearly as much if at all. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJnu_...el_video_title
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Last edited by opek; 10-03-2011 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:05 PM   #49
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I noticed the embed issue here too. Y HTML code is turned off in the AX sub-forum so a link is all you can do.

The vid quality doesn't look THAT bad. And do you alway crawl with your hood open?
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:44 AM   #50
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did that do what I thought it did its fun to finally see someone elses rig do stuff I used to do a lot. I remember pulling lines like that before and my ONLY limitation was a lack of wheel speed, and traction.

I do think you may have me considering S300's now for my rig, your steering is absolutely insane, something I am lacking considerably

Oh and Rovers + siping is amazing. Cleaning with a little simple green and water + a scrub brush is even better
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:53 PM   #51
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Of course I always crawl with my hood open. I need a place for all the air to go after it passes through the radiator. I suppose I could take it off, but that would just look silly.

Ok I have given up a bit of my bind free steering and widened the front shocks on the axle and narrowed them a bit at the chassis. Hopefully I can reduce the spring rate at rest and increase the effecting rate of the lower shock when sidehilling. I have stiffened them up a hair from pink + pen springs to just the reds and I reduced the oil weight a bit. I have some narrower offset wheels coming and with a small change to the front plate I should be able to max out the axles. I have just about destroyed my front axle housing. I need to buy a new one. I hope I'm not the only one!

I threw a green on the passenger rear to replace the silver, but I think it will work better with silver and a pen spring. Time will tell!



Here are a few videos from today, before I made these changes, and a few pics from after. There are a 5 total, but they aren't the coolest things ever

More crawling at Canyonside 4 - YouTube

More crawling at Canyonside 5 - YouTube
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:42 PM   #52
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There are a 5 total, but they aren't the coolest things ever
Still appreciate you taking the time to put them up, thanks.
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:57 AM   #53
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I had good luck with mine set up like this, didn't want to mess with BTA

a long servo arm is key for lots of throw, get an aluminum double ended and cut one side off

do it straight link or it will bend in a comp and you will DNF

Last edited by nappahdog; 10-10-2011 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:51 PM   #54
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OK OK OK. I'll figure it out!

Thanks for the pic, I like how you took out the forward mount for the axle plate. Can I call it a wing? A longer servo arm will let me take the CV's to their limit, there is no binding with the axle housing or wing and the tie rod from lock to lock.

I went back to pinks up front, this time without the pen springs. I think the truck was a bit more stable with the pen springs, but it's definitely more predictable with the softer front. The reds were just way too stiff, even with 15wt Losi oil. I've noticed the softer the front is the less torque twist I face, so it's kind of a double win. I've lost some straight line uphill traction since switching to the pinks, I'm not quite sure why the softer front would give me less traction - even when the front passenger tire is still planted. It would 3 wheel up my anti-squat test incline a bit easier with the reds up front.

Back to silver/green in the rear, both are 55wt Losi oil I believe.

Got some axial offset wheels, unfortunately they are .75" wide so my rovers aren't going to be as tall or have the performance of a 1" wheel. Maybe I will get a chance to see, but so far the truck is awesome. Running with some Leopards on the rear for now, why not I said!

I moved the front shocks out a little bit more, swapping them with the links. I am very happy with how the truck handles right now, but I have lost a bit of effective steering since going to 0 ackerman at lock. I will have to try and work out a bit of reverse, hopefully while keeping the tie rod up front.

I really liked this pic, so I had to take a few of my own!



On to the show!


















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Old 10-18-2011, 08:53 PM   #55
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Well... I was politely informed my car is ugly as sin and I owe it to the plastic from which it was molded to make it prettier and newer. I don't entirely disagree, so with a laugh and small pang I sent off to the thinking pot. How can I keep the sabi intact while vanquishing the ugly, I asked myself. After some careful deliberation I concluded I wasn't going to figure it out. So I decided to cut up the old body and zip tie it on, hood up of course!

I added a tiny bit more steering, just a little bit more is still left to be gained. Thanks again to Calvin West for the sweet ass parts!

Sorry for the barroom quality photos.
















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Old 10-18-2011, 09:39 PM   #56
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Wow caster/sweet topper! Now I've got no excuse not to get Hobbes going how are the super 300's holding up!?!
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:47 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by opek View Post

Got some axial offset wheels, unfortunately they are .75" wide so my rovers aren't going to be as tall or have the performance of a 1" wheel. Maybe I will get a chance to see, but so far the truck is awesome. Running with some Leopards on the rear for now, why not I said!

I moved the front shocks out a little bit more, swapping them with the links. I am very happy with how the truck handles right now, but I have lost a bit of effective steering since going to zero ackerman at lock. I will have to try and work out a bit of reverse, hopefully while keeping the tie rod up front.



With the 0.75" wheels your tyres will actually be taller than with the 1". A narrower wheel squeezes the side walls in more and makes the tyre taller.


The Loss of steering should not be because of the new knuckles but because you have moved you shocks out one space. Try to mount your front shocks and links as narrow as possible
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:48 PM   #58
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With the 0.75" wheels your tyres will actually be taller than with the 1". A narrower wheel squeezes the side walls in more and makes the tyre taller.


The Loss of steering should not be because of the new knuckles but because you have moved you shocks out one space. Try to mount your front shocks and links as narrow as possible
I'm sorry I was not very clear at all about my steering setup! Adjusting the tie rod length to achieve 0 ackerman at full lock - despite increasing the average travel of the two wheels - has reduced the trucks ability to track on the rocks. It responded better when the tie rod length was such that there was reverse ackerman at full lock.

I will not be able to achieve reverse ackerman at full lock without changing something, like my servo plate yet again, or running one of those fancy metal horns that sticks out a bunch, putting a small bend in the tie rod, or maybe flipping the servo so the horn is on the outside (but then so will the wires - right at the corner where the tire rubs).

At full lock the rod swings towards the plate/axle housing and contacts the two center screws which attach the plate to the housing. This wouldn't limit me by very much if I wanted parallel tires or ackerman at lock, but it is quite a problem when trying to dial in some reverse ackerman.

As far as the tires go, my rovers seem to be taller on 1" wheels than on .75" wheels. Maybe I didn't look very carefully, but I will have to check again. I assumed the foam would hold the contact patch in a similar width, but with the .75" wheel having the tire sit in a more trapezoidal shape.

The truck wheels like a champion with the .75" wheels. I wish I had a 1" wide axial offset wheel to compare with.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:51 PM   #59
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Wow caster/sweet topper! Now I've got no excuse not to get Hobbes going how are the super 300's holding up!?!
I'm sorry! But you didn't want that on here anyway! The super 300's are awesome as sin and will work in berg axles. I can only think of about 130 reasons not to buy them.

Get your rig going!
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:03 PM   #60
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nice rig how do u like the 55t?
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