another ax10 build, it's a 2.2 esse

[tomer]

try adding some caster to the front end it well help with the turning.

[sourdojack]

It looks like he's already laying those tires over with about 20-25 degrees of caster....

[opek]

Originally Posted by sourdojack

It looks like he's already laying those tires over with about 20-25 degrees of caster....

Oh but he said add caster! You can see the steering centered, full lock left and right, ride height, and full extension. I widened the skid plate enough to raise the front upper links one hole on the chassis which got rid of the squat in the front end. It's now very neutral, just like the rear. That should be enough for some extra traction on the front tires.

I added a ton of caster. I can bring it down by lengthening the uppers as I see necessary.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Needs more caster.

[opek]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Needs more caster.

I might have agreed with you an hour ago, but after wheeling it I am just blown away. First thing I noticed was the better rollover recovery. This thing just seemed to always land on a tire as it tumbled down the rocks. After rolling a million times I started to get a bit more technical with it and noticed some big changes.

The inside tire just tucks and the truck drives on over, but now the outside tire feels very heavily sprung! I can barely imagine why this is happening...

I can't make it up a few of the lines I used to because of the excessive caster, but I can certainly do a bunch of hilarious shit. It's even more stable on a sidehill now, and the downhill to sidehill transition is a pleasure. It hooks much harder on ledges with the sidewall so exposed at lock, but it takes some benefit away from the tweel using the sidewall like that.

I think I'll try it set around 30 degrees, somewhere in the middle of where it was and where it is now, and see how that works out.

Thanks tomer!

Ps - I moved my battery to the back and I'm not sure if yuck. It's still front biased, balanced on the front rod ends. I dunno, we will see how it works with the caster set to something more reasonable.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by opek

I might have agreed with you an hour ago, but after wheeling it I am just blown away.

Its ok, I was joking.

[TSK]

Bump the caster up to 90* and rely on wind to turn.

[tomer]

ok now make the uppers a little longer and you should be good. i like 20 to 25* of caster on all of my rigs.

[opek]

No spamming for posts in my thread! Tech or comedy, damnit!

[TSK]

OOps




eidt: Oops I did it again.

[opek]

So it seems like antisquat DOES use the weight of the axles, particularly whichever axle is held off the ground. During a steep climb the nose will lift. As soon as the front end lifts and it's weight becomes supported by chassis, it's weight needs to be included in the center of gravity height. In the old setup from page 1, the rig essentially could not flip backwards on a climb. I think this is because it would switch from a bit of squat to a bit of antisquat as the rig lifted the front end and the normal line lowered itself.

Back to the drawing board and hopefully I can get a decent book about this stuff soon.

[opek]

New uppers and a really, really ugly rear mount. Everything is pretty close to square .

All brand new and ready for the comp tomorrow, in theory it should wheel pretty well. Light and dark green represent normal lines for when the front end is suspended and when it is not. You can ignore the pink lines! The upper links are just about parallel with the ground at max extension, which should keep the roll axis under control. More triangulation at the axle on the uppers will keep the roll axis from moving around so much during articulation.

[opek]

It's the way of the future! In the last picture you can't see the esc on the lower tongue piece, but you can see the reciever mounted under the upper tongue and the BEC stuck in front. The battery is going back to it's old spot on the axle. I am going to try the 1" DH's on the rear and the 3/4" channeled thrashers up front, so that may keep the weight nice. If I end up with the DH's in the front again I might stick the battery or the esc in the back a la Dude. Front upper link mount will be a TLT bracket spaced 3-6mm above the plate (thanks Nabil, I didn't forget about those things!).

I didn't snag a pic of just the chassis, but the CoG of the thing is very freakin high. Much higher than I had anticipated. The upper most link mount on my chassis is 1mm above the CoG when the body is attached. I will be building the axle side upper link mounts to be the same height as the CG of the chassis while at ride height (again, I'm straying from the high antisquat values and trying to get this thing to suck down while it drives). Having my uppers parallel to the ground and at the CG height should make it easier to get a nice flat roll axis and a high roll center. Triangulating the uppers will keep the roll axis more consistent throughout travel.

I still don't understand jack diddly squat about torque twist, so this will be fun to see what the triangulation does. The only thing I know that directly affects it is my antisquat value.

It's the way of the future!

[opek]

Picking up old, used, loved chassis hardly seems like anything but a great idea! Maybe I'll learn something and create, or maybe I'll end up looking like a chump. Does the RT have shorter lowers than the original?

[Hacksaw707]

That servo set up will make for some interesting upper and lower link placement

[opek]

Originally Posted by Hacksaw707

That servo set up will make for some interesting upper and lower link placement

It'll never work.

There is tons of room, shocks are a little tricky. A big point of it is to get my front link geometry to look like the rear.

[TSK]

I'm really liking that steering setup. EXCEPT i hate the amount of torsional load on the knuckle caused by that long spacer. looking like you might have enough room to run the drag link under the servo horn. and just curve it to clear the servo when at full left lock?

[opek]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

I'm really liking that steering setup. EXCEPT i hate the amount of torsional load on the knuckle caused by that long spacer. looking like you might have enough room to run the drag link under the servo horn. and just curve it to clear the servo when at full left lock?

That's exactly what I did a few days ago! But I don't see a spacer?

[opek]

This is a pretty high class problem... to scale or to comp with these things? They are ~10.7 inches from beadlock ring to beadlock ring.

[Erin]

Did you narrow them? Comp with them, I've been waiting for someone to pave the way.