RCCrawler Forums

JeremyH · 11-11-2011, 08:02 AM

Nice work so far Shane!

cagedcbr · 11-11-2011, 09:41 AM

I would make sure to CA glue the edges on the chassis plates, maybe even extra thick on the bottom portion unless you could cut a skid that would overlap the lower portion of the plates.

Szczerba · 11-11-2011, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Nice work so far Shane!

Thanks. XR10 chubs, knuckles, knuckle weights and universals are sitting on the bench just waiting for longer beef tubes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagedcbr

I would make sure to CA glue the edges on the chassis plates, maybe even extra thick on the bottom portion unless you could cut a skid that would overlap the lower portion of the plates.

I was going to make a thin lexan skid to cover the skid and motor side, since the rear part is exposed where the links mount and the motor sticks out.

Szczerba · 11-13-2011, 09:12 PM

Finished up the spur side plate. Might rework the other plate but probably not.

XR-10 chubs, knuckles weights and universals just waiting to go into the axial axles.

gunnar · 11-13-2011, 09:32 PM

If you feel like making a little more carbon dust sometime in the future:

helhedded · 11-14-2011, 07:49 AM

Nice collection of parts, man!

Szczerba · 11-14-2011, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunnar

If you feel like making a little more carbon dust sometime in the future:

Maybe one more round. CF is not fun to work with b/c of the dust. I was going to trim up that top area like you show but got lazy. I'll make another pass tonight. Cause right now that spur side plate weights just as much as the FF-4 aluminum plate. 5/8 oz.

Quote:

Originally Posted by helhedded

Nice collection of parts, man!

Yea, going to be a pretty fancy shafty, no-dig truck.
I put all the beefy axial trans parts in the plastic axial cases last night and put in a used but good Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster Pro HW 540 Brushed 35T. It's actually the old white label TM.

Szczerba · 11-15-2011, 09:27 PM

Chassis pretty much done. Not as much rake as I thought but it was fun trying!
Wheelbase is at 12 3/8" right now, not too bad for just tossing on some bent rear lowers and quickly made some front lowers. All this will change in the future. Just wanted to see where I was at.

Last two pictures show original FF-4 chassis comparison.

4" front shocks, check out that angle, ooohhhh ahhhh. 3.6" rear shocks.

Thanks to Duuuuuuuude for the rear D-Link mount.

Tips, comments, suggestions?

....

Duuuuuuuude · 11-15-2011, 10:09 PM

Why not put the long shocks in the rear? That'll give you a bit more rake.

I've been running a short shock up front for a couple years now, both on the old F4 and the new FBII.

4xFord · 11-15-2011, 11:05 PM

Is that fully sprung or is the belly "settling" into the travel a bit? In those pics it looks like it could use another 1/4" belly height. Glad to see it coming together though! Oh also you can use an axial offset rod end on the rear shock caps to get them to stand up a bit more. you could run them on the bottom of the shock as well to help even more.

Szczerba · 11-16-2011, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Why not put the long shocks in the rear? That'll give you a bit more rake.

I've been running a short shock up front for a couple years now, both on the old F4 and the new FBII.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4xFord

Oh also you can use an axial offset rod end on the rear shock caps to get them to stand up a bit more. you could run them on the bottom of the shock as well to help even more.

Thanks guys.

I will probably try a 4.25"-4.37" shock up front and a 4" out back. That was the first setup recommended to me by another FF-4 aficionado. (Mad Mike Manning...........!). I just didn't have any 4.25" shocks laying around. I was just grabbing shocks out of the parts bin. Should get some more rake with a longer shock out back and up front. I'll have to experiment with shocks and longer rod ends etc.

What do you guys think for link material? Titanium or delrin. Rear lowers will be bent in some fashion, fronts will be straight or slightly bent.
I was thinking about these for the rear lowers.
http://www.crawlerinnovations.com/in...mart&Itemid=63

ROLANDROCKSHOP · 11-16-2011, 06:42 AM

ti for links..i love mine.

well i guess ima gonna hafta build a sporty too now..

C*H*U*D · 11-16-2011, 09:00 AM

I say Ti too...I have sleeved stainless, but if I had the cash they would be Ti.

I just finished up my XR-10 mod last night. I used the stock plastic pieces I had left over, but will probably spring for some VP parts soon.

helhedded · 11-16-2011, 11:08 AM

more motivation to get my shafty built....

The build is looking like fun. You should bring it along this weekend to the Turkey Crawl so I can feel it up.

Szczerba · 11-16-2011, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLANDROCKSHOP

ti for links..i love mine.
well i guess ima gonna hafta build a sporty too now..

Ti will be in the near future, possibly. Build one up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I say Ti too...I have sleeved stainless, but if I had the cash they would be Ti.
I just finished up my XR-10 mod last night. I used the stock plastic pieces I had left over, but will probably spring for some VP parts soon.

XR goodies are here, just waiting on the fancy longer beef tubes. As I've said 25x already.

Quote:

Originally Posted by helhedded

more motivation to get my shafty built....
The build is looking like fun. You should bring it along this weekend to the Turkey Crawl so I can feel it up.

Will do.

Started reaching for parts out of the parts bin again. Here is what turned out tonight for this mock up session.
4.25" front shocks, 4" rear shocks. wb is at 12.25" right now.
I'll have to cut down a Junfac driveshaft to measure 55mm and then drill the 5mm outputs to 6mm. Maxx shaft won't work up front.

Pictures are at what I think will be ride height.

TSK · 11-17-2011, 03:58 PM

Looks much better without the extra fluff up top. I would also suggest Ti for the links. And ditch those metal driveshafts for some Maxx shafts

530xCrawler · 11-17-2011, 05:21 PM

Hey man rig looks savage, was just wondering what kind of 3 link mount that was on the front axle?

Szczerba · 11-18-2011, 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Looks much better without the extra fluff up top. I would also suggest Ti for the links. And ditch those metal driveshafts for some Maxx shafts

Thanks for the tips. I have the CI Maxx shaft kit, see first couple posts. The front driveshaft is going to be around 55mm with the 5mm adapter on the axle pinion and the longer trans output the maxx shafts can't get short enough. The big maxx yoke are the issue. So I am having to drill out a junfac and cut it down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 530xCrawler

Hey man rig looks savage, was just wondering what kind of 3 link mount that was on the front axle?

Think its a STRC 3 link, not sure, just pulled it from my parts bin. I will be running 4 link up front.

Stormin2u · 11-18-2011, 10:13 AM

Good looking rig Shane I love all these new Sporty trucks, I'm doing one myself. I think its great the USRCCA is looking at a Real Sportsman Class, I know we have a 1.9 Shafty class but it's nowhere near the 2.2 in performance IMO. Super job this rig looks like a performer.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-18-2011, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Super job this rig looks like a performer.

Agreed. For my sake I hope he can't drive it nearly as well as he can his moa.

11-13-2011, 09:12 PM	#24
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Finished up the spur side plate. Might rework the other plate but probably not. XR-10 chubs, knuckles weights and universals just waiting to go into the axial axles. Attached Images

11-15-2011, 09:27 PM	#28
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Chassis done. Chassis pretty much done. Not as much rake as I thought but it was fun trying! Wheelbase is at 12 3/8" right now, not too bad for just tossing on some bent rear lowers and quickly made some front lowers. All this will change in the future. Just wanted to see where I was at. Last two pictures show original FF-4 chassis comparison. 4" front shocks, check out that angle, ooohhhh ahhhh. 3.6" rear shocks. Thanks to Duuuuuuuude for the rear D-Link mount. Tips, comments, suggestions? .... Attached Images Last edited by Szczerba; 11-15-2011 at 09:45 PM.

11-17-2011, 05:21 PM	#37
530xCrawler Newbie Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Grass Valley Posts: 15	upper 3 link mount? Hey man rig looks savage, was just wondering what kind of 3 link mount that was on the front axle?

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11-11-2011, 08:02 AM	#21
JeremyH I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 16,952	Nice work so far Shane!

11-11-2011, 09:41 AM	#22
cagedcbr Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Posts: 445	I would make sure to CA glue the edges on the chassis plates, maybe even extra thick on the bottom portion unless you could cut a skid that would overlap the lower portion of the plates.

11-13-2011, 09:32 PM	#25
gunnar Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA. Posts: 2,242	If you feel like making a little more carbon dust sometime in the future:

11-14-2011, 07:49 AM	#26
helhedded I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis Posts: 4,786	Nice collection of parts, man!

11-15-2011, 10:09 PM	#29
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	Why not put the long shocks in the rear? That'll give you a bit more rake. I've been running a short shock up front for a couple years now, both on the old F4 and the new FBII.

11-15-2011, 11:05 PM	#30
4xFord I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Houston Posts: 3,761	Is that fully sprung or is the belly "settling" into the travel a bit? In those pics it looks like it could use another 1/4" belly height. Glad to see it coming together though! Oh also you can use an axial offset rod end on the rear shock caps to get them to stand up a bit more. you could run them on the bottom of the shock as well to help even more.

11-16-2011, 06:42 AM	#32
ROLANDROCKSHOP I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: roland,ar Posts: 5,981	ti for links..i love mine. well i guess ima gonna hafta build a sporty too now..

11-16-2011, 09:00 AM	#33
CHU*D No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO Posts: 4,529	I say Ti too...I have sleeved stainless, but if I had the cash they would be Ti. I just finished up my XR-10 mod last night. I used the stock plastic pieces I had left over, but will probably spring for some VP parts soon.

11-16-2011, 11:08 AM	#34
helhedded I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis Posts: 4,786	more motivation to get my shafty built.... The build is looking like fun. You should bring it along this weekend to the Turkey Crawl so I can feel it up.

11-17-2011, 03:58 PM	#36
TSK Shelf queen Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Internet Posts: 5,857	Looks much better without the extra fluff up top. I would also suggest Ti for the links. And ditch those metal driveshafts for some Maxx shafts

Sponsored Links

11-18-2011, 10:13 AM	#39
Stormin2u I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew. Posts: 7,843	Good looking rig Shane I love all these new Sporty trucks, I'm doing one myself. I think its great the USRCCA is looking at a Real Sportsman Class, I know we have a 1.9 Shafty class but it's nowhere near the 2.2 in performance IMO. Super job this rig looks like a performer.

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