RCCrawler Forums

TSK · 11-18-2011, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Thanks for the tips. I have the CI Maxx shaft kit, see first couple posts. The front driveshaft is going to be around 55mm with the 5mm adapter on the axle pinion and the longer trans output the maxx shafts can't get short enough. The big maxx yoke are the issue. So I am having to drill out a junfac and cut it down.

Try using a t-naaxx TRANS yoke. you won't need to use the CI adapter for those. You just need to drill out the flat spots in them. Otherwise their ID diameter is a perfect fit for the axial pinion shaft.

That should open up a ton of space to run the maxx shaft

Manning · 11-20-2011, 02:57 PM

.....and then?

I haven't got any PM's lately so I'm guessing it's done and on the rocks.

Stormin2u · 11-20-2011, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Agreed. For my sake I hope he can't drive it nearly as well as he can his moa.

Sounds like trouble ahead Dude.

Duuuuuuuude · 11-20-2011, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Sounds like trouble ahead Dude.

There usually is.

Szczerba · 11-20-2011, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Try using a t-naaxx TRANS yoke. you won't need to use the CI adapter for those. You just need to drill out the flat spots in them. Otherwise their ID diameter is a perfect fit for the axial pinion shaft.

That should open up a ton of space to run the maxx shaft

I am running the CI kit to be able to run a 90t spur gear. Things are too tight if you don't have a longer front output. I have drilled the 5mm junfac shafts to accept the bigger outputs. And then I will just cut down the shaft.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manning

.....and then?

I haven't got any PM's lately so I'm guessing it's done and on the rocks.

Just got back from a 1,270 mile round trip run to the Turkey crawl. The longer beef tubes shipped on friday so this should be getting going soon. Probably going to recut the chassis in 1/16th carbon fiber.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

Sounds like trouble ahead Dude.

I don't wanna get anything started with Duuuuuuuude. Yet,

Szczerba · 11-21-2011, 12:40 PM

Thinking about making the plates from 1/16" Carbon fiber.
Would the 1/16 be too thin?
1/16 is ~1.5mm thick, what is on there now is ~3mm thick.

And I just ordered Lunsford Racing Titanium Rock Grinder links for the whole truck.

...

ROCKEDUP RICKY · 11-21-2011, 01:14 PM

Looking forward to seeing this one run, do you think Mike gave you all his secrets.

Szczerba · 11-21-2011, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROCKEDUP RICKY

Looking forward to seeing this one run, do you think Mike gave you all his secrets.

Pretty darn close. I just asked for a rough lower link measurement and he gave me that, plus upper link lengths, shock lengths, shock hole placement, spring rates for each corner, shock limiter lengths and electronic placement.

He must have had a cup of coffee or something right before I pm'd him. But really, thanks for the info Mike

.

ROCKEDUP RICKY · 11-21-2011, 01:27 PM

Still got to drive it.

Szczerba · 11-21-2011, 09:43 PM

Longer beef tubes on rear axle. Didn't have any c-clips to hold the rear axle shaft in, so I just added some barrel spacers to do the job. Wheely King straight axles.

Right about 8.5" hex to hex. 10.5" wide with SLW's and 225 hubs.

Front axle next.

Stormin2u · 11-22-2011, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Thinking about making the plates from 1/16" Carbon fiber.
Would the 1/16 be too thin?
1/16 is ~1.5mm thick, what is on there now is ~3mm thick.

And I just ordered Lunsford Racing Titanium Rock Grinder links for the whole truck.

...

1/16th should easily do the job.

Szczerba · 11-22-2011, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

1/16th should easily do the job.

Good to know! Cause I just ordered a few 3"x24" sheets of 1/16" this morning.

Stormin2u · 11-22-2011, 12:09 PM

You'll be happy with that I'm sure.

Szczerba · 11-22-2011, 09:03 PM

Front axle done up with longer beef tubes, XR10 >> chubs, knuckles, universals, knuckle weights. Clocked em back to whatever degrees and hopefully they are close to the same

. Just wanted a some and be able to get the steering link close to the axle housing.

475 hubs puts it right at 11". Plenty of wiggle room to jump down a hub size and still be able to get 3 rings on the knuckle weights.
Plenty-o-steering...

Duuuuuuuude · 11-22-2011, 09:19 PM

Cheater!

Szczerba · 11-22-2011, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Cheater!

Thanks!

Szczerba · 11-27-2011, 06:13 PM

Solved the front driveshaft issue. Drilled the ends out to just over 6mm. The "D" slot on the female end off the Junfac shaft doesn't run the full length of the shaft. Cut the "D" part of the female end and re-welded to the universal part. Driveshaft is about 55mm long. And use "pass through" pins.

Setup the Titanium links to get right at 12.35" wheelbase maxed out. Used Jato ends on the lower rears and then cut them down a few millimeters to get the right wheelbase.

Cut and countersunk a 3mm piece of carbon fiber for the servo/link mount. I was going to BTA the drag link with the servo turned the other way but gave up after an hour and various drag link bends.

1.5mm carbon fiber should be in soon, I'll re-cut the chassis this week. Electronics will go on a small CF plate that will be attached to the servo/link plate. Still figuring out battery placement but I have an idea.

....

Duuuuuuuude · 11-27-2011, 08:17 PM

What an amazingly clean workbench. I'm jealous.

ram_tough · 11-27-2011, 08:23 PM

Nice work on the build Shane. I may have missed it but what shafts are you using in the rear axle, XR10?

jeepsohigh · 11-27-2011, 08:57 PM

Wow Shane, I know I saw this in person at the Turkey crawl and was very impressed BUT after reading this build thread I just have to say WOW, You have definitely put in some impressive work and I can’t wait for more

IM starting a sporty build very soon but it wont be near the rig your is

11-21-2011, 12:40 PM	#46
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Thinking about making the plates from 1/16" Carbon fiber. Would the 1/16 be too thin? 1/16 is ~1.5mm thick, what is on there now is ~3mm thick. And I just ordered Lunsford Racing Titanium Rock Grinder links for the whole truck. ... Last edited by Szczerba; 11-21-2011 at 12:48 PM.

11-21-2011, 09:43 PM	#50
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Rear Axle Done Longer beef tubes on rear axle. Didn't have any c-clips to hold the rear axle shaft in, so I just added some barrel spacers to do the job. Wheely King straight axles. Right about 8.5" hex to hex. 10.5" wide with SLW's and 225 hubs. Front axle next. Attached Images Last edited by Szczerba; 05-25-2012 at 07:31 AM.

11-22-2011, 09:03 PM	#54
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Front axle done up with longer beef tubes, XR10 >> chubs, knuckles, universals, knuckle weights. Clocked em back to whatever degrees and hopefully they are close to the same . Just wanted a some and be able to get the steering link close to the axle housing. 475 hubs puts it right at 11". Plenty of wiggle room to jump down a hub size and still be able to get 3 rings on the knuckle weights. Plenty-o-steering... Attached Images

11-27-2011, 06:13 PM	#57
Szczerba I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA Posts: 8,785	Solved the front driveshaft issue. Drilled the ends out to just over 6mm. The "D" slot on the female end off the Junfac shaft doesn't run the full length of the shaft. Cut the "D" part of the female end and re-welded to the universal part. Driveshaft is about 55mm long. And use "pass through" pins. Setup the Titanium links to get right at 12.35" wheelbase maxed out. Used Jato ends on the lower rears and then cut them down a few millimeters to get the right wheelbase. Cut and countersunk a 3mm piece of carbon fiber for the servo/link mount. I was going to BTA the drag link with the servo turned the other way but gave up after an hour and various drag link bends. 1.5mm carbon fiber should be in soon, I'll re-cut the chassis this week. Electronics will go on a small CF plate that will be attached to the servo/link plate. Still figuring out battery placement but I have an idea. .... Attached Images

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11-20-2011, 02:57 PM	#42
Manning RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lowell, Arkansas Posts: 1,307	.....and then? I haven't got any PM's lately so I'm guessing it's done and on the rocks.

11-21-2011, 01:14 PM	#47
ROCKEDUP RICKY Old guy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Northwest Arkie-saw and we got ROCKS! Posts: 7,548	Looking forward to seeing this one run, do you think Mike gave you all his secrets.

11-21-2011, 01:27 PM	#49
ROCKEDUP RICKY Old guy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Northwest Arkie-saw and we got ROCKS! Posts: 7,548	Still got to drive it.

11-22-2011, 12:09 PM	#53
Stormin2u I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew. Posts: 7,843	You'll be happy with that I'm sure.

11-22-2011, 09:19 PM	#55
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	Cheater!

11-27-2011, 08:17 PM	#58
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	What an amazingly clean workbench. I'm jealous.

11-27-2011, 08:23 PM	#59
ram_tough Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Jersey Strong! Posts: 564	Nice work on the build Shane. I may have missed it but what shafts are you using in the rear axle, XR10?

11-27-2011, 08:57 PM	#60
jeepsohigh Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Saint Charles Posts: 732	Wow Shane, I know I saw this in person at the Turkey crawl and was very impressed BUT after reading this build thread I just have to say WOW, You have definitely put in some impressive work and I can’t wait for more IM starting a sporty build very soon but it wont be near the rig your is

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