Gatekeeper gc3a (noob)

[GMtech1]

This is my first post, so much great info around here. Just got my first crawler, a RTC AX10. Only upgrades so far are aluminum steering, trimmed body and weighted front tires. I really want to swap all my suspension over to the aluminum links, but by the time I buy the links for around $40, the hardware kit for around $18 and a new skid plate/trans mount so I can mount my lower links inboard I would be spending about the same if I just went ahead and bought the gatekeeper gc3a for $62+shipping. I have no plans to compete with this, just beat around the property at home. I know the gc3a is more then I need, but for the money I dont see where I could go wrong, anyone have any input on this???

Also, has anyone put a proline tuber body on the gc3a chassis?

I'm sure I will have more (stupid) questions shortly, but this will do for now. Thanks in advance.

Scott

[jeepster73]

The Keeper is an iconic chassis....you will like it

[GMtech1]

Also, will I have room on this chassis to mount my electronics and battery?

[jeepster73]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

Also, will I have room on this chassis to mount my electronics and battery?

There are alot of build threads here and Im sure you would find all the info
You need....

Search button!!


And yes you will be able to fit your electronics.......

[CmdrZod]

Originally Posted by jeepster73

The Keeper is an iconic chassis....you will like it

X2... That is the chassis I will be upgrading to for this coming spring comp series.

I'm sure I will have more (stupid) questions shortly, but this will do for now. Thanks in advance.

There are no stupid questions.

But like what jeepster said... Use the search button... and if you still can't find an answer fell free to ask away!

And WELCOME!!!!

[dunebuggy79]

buy the gatekeeper and never look back!!

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

Only upgrades so far are aluminum steering, trimmed body and weighted front tires. I really want to swap all my suspension over to the aluminum links, but by the time I buy the links for around $40, the hardware kit for around $18 and a new skid plate/trans mount so I can mount my lower links inboard I would be spending about the same if I just went ahead and bought the gatekeeper gc3a for $62+shipping.

I was in exactly the same spot earlier this year, save for the weighted wheels. I can't say I'm the least bit dissatisfied with sticking with the stock chassis at this point, but now that I've spent money on all the links you're looking at, I can't really justify essentially throwing away (like you said) $60 or so in links. This one's gonna kinda hafta be your call, as it's personal preference. I kinda think if I was starting over, I think I'd look at a Monnbuggy chassis, or see if Jones'N still has one last chassis still in stock. But the Gatekeeper you're mulling over looks really sweet, too.

Also keep in mind, if you want to go 4-link, the Gatekeeper looks like it comes with the plates for doing so. I you just buy links for your stock chassis, you'll hafta make/buy your own plates to do that. My vote'd be, skip the links, go Gatekeeper.

[Stormin2u]

Ran a GC-2 for several years it's a outstanding chassis, your stock shocks you'll need to limit them to 4" max, thats what the GC will like. Lots of builds out there to look at. Have fun

[GMtech1]

Thanks for all the input guys. Looks like I will get the GC once I get my truck to actually work. CANNOT get the remote linked to the reciever.

Also, I have the latest RTC which has 103mm shocks so I already have 4'' shocks.

[WAM]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

Also, has anyone put a proline tuber body on the gc3a chassis?

Actually, I have. Didn't own a scaler and wanted to try one of their events so I dropped that body on my gatekeeper. Didn't mount directly like to the stock chassis. I think I had to hog it out to get it to drop over and then secured it with cable ties. Got the job done and I had a good time. And of course walked over everything that was giving real scalers fits. But that was hardly fair.




BTW: to get them linked follow the directions on AxialRacing.com on calibrating the AE2 esc. And while the GC3a can be run on 4" shocks, it prefers 3.5's.

[roadstr6]

Hey, GMTech. Are you in Albemarle, NC? I'm in Weddington. Ever go out to URE? Some cool crawling spots out there. I just took my son out there a couple of weeks ago in our 1:1 Rubicon and he crawled all over the Kodak Rock area with his AX-10 RTR. I love that place!

[GMtech1]

Originally Posted by roadstr6

Hey, GMTech. Are you in Albemarle, NC? I'm in Weddington. Ever go out to URE? Some cool crawling spots out there. I just took my son out there a couple of weeks ago in our 1:1 Rubicon and he crawled all over the Kodak Rock area with his AX-10 RTR. I love that place!

I am. Yes Have been to URE a few times and love it. Have not been in a couple years thought.

[GMtech1]

Originally Posted by WAM

Actually, I have. Didn't own a scaler and wanted to try one of their events so I dropped that body on my gatekeeper. Didn't mount directly like to the stock chassis. I think I had to hog it out to get it to drop over and then secured it with cable ties. Got the job done and I had a good time. And of course walked over everything that was giving real scalers fits. But that was hardly fair.




BTW: to get them linked follow the directions on AxialRacing.com on calibrating the AE2 esc. And while the GC3a can be run on 4" shocks, it prefers 3.5's.

Looks pretty good with the tuber on there. I'm not having trouble calibrating the esc, just linking the controller to the reciever. Pretty sure my reciever is dead. Pretty irritated as I just got this thing and I'm impatient lol

[WAM]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

Looks pretty good with the tuber on there. I'm not having trouble calibrating the esc, just linking the controller to the reciever. Pretty sure my reciever is dead. Pretty irritated as I just got this thing and I'm impatient lol

Could be.

Step 1: http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...ransmitter.pdf

Step 2: http://docs.axialracing.com/instruct...01-ae2-esc.pdf

Step 3: Call Scott at Axial: 949 600 8642

[muddinscx]

I have the swx chassis but I have some spare axles, trans and what not so I'm gonna give the gc-3a a try. You can't beat $63 for a whole chassis kit . I've heard more possative feed back off of the gc-3a then the swx sooo I thought, why not have both.

[GMtech1]

I guess my biggest concern at this point is going to be battery placement. I'm currently running nimh 6 cell and am not that the point where I need to go to anything else and I really dislike the look of a big 6 cell battery strapped on top of the steering servo. I'm like a kid in a candy store, I cant make up my darn mind lol Anyone have any pics of one of these with a 6 cell nimh onboard?

[muddinscx]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

I guess my biggest concern at this point is going to be battery placement. I'm currently running nimh 6 cell and am not that the point where I need to go to anything else and I really dislike the look of a big 6 cell battery strapped on top of the steering servo. I'm like a kid in a candy store, I cant make up my darn mind lol Anyone have any pics of one of these with a 6 cell nimh onboard?

Go lipo. If you want power in a small size, go lipo. That's the only logical way. Then you can get a servo/ battery plate and run a 1300mah 3s lipo and your servo on the front axle . You can get a decent charger for $65 and go to cheapbatterypacks.com and get a battery for less then $20.

[GMtech1]

So on a lipo, what do you do with the balance plug?? Does that plug into the reciever??? My stock electronics are only good with 2s lipo, what MAH should I be looking at and what kind of run time should I expect?? My head already hurts from my mass confusion....lol

[airdreams1]

no the balance plug is to balance charge the battery....

dont go too big or it wont fit.... most use 850 or smaller...

[muddinscx]

Originally Posted by GMtech1

So on a lipo, what do you do with the balance plug?? Does that plug into the reciever??? My stock electronics are only good with 2s lipo, what MAH should I be looking at and what kind of run time should I expect?? My head already hurts from my mass confusion....lol

Balance plug is for the charging process (so each pack in the battery gets an equal charge). 2s will be perfect for now. Don't go over 1300mah. Get a high C rating (there will be a constint and burst rate, stay with about 30c and up). 1300mah on my rig gives me about 45min to an hour depending on how much I'm "on it". I do run 3s though. Go to the electronic part of the forum and look up lipos. They people there will be able to help you out a lot more. Trust me, when you go lipo, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner . A couple.things to remeber: they are more "fragile" then nickle metal batteries and NEVER use a charger that isn't for lipo. It'll make your lipo have a violent explosion .