another ax10 build, it's a 2.2 esse

[opek]

Here she lies, an AX10 RTC:
Spektrum Dx3C
55t Torquemaster Sport (thanks)
Hitec 7950th
Holmes BRXL (thanks)
3s
CCBEC

Rocker Chassis (thanks)
2" wide skidplate
My beautiful links.
VP high steer knuckles (double thanks!)
metal C's

Axial underdrive rear gears
--front UD coming someday
Robinson output and idler
SDS Super 300s (thanks)
JFab wide 300 hexes

Boss Claws, snipped and sanded.
stick on weights - balance point is where the links meet the rodends.
DNA Thrashers (thanks)

Big Bores all around
Super sweet Losi shock oil 15wt up front 40 wt rear passenger and 55wt rear driver
1 hole pistons up front and 2 holes in the rear
Mini T pink springs up front
Losi Black 2.75" springs in the rear



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Begin original post
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The front shocks are around 50% droop. The rears are at 0.
Super soft axial springs all around.

Check the end of the thread for pics of the most updated setup.




I was messing around with the triangulation in the lower links. I need to make a longer set to get back to a 12.5" wheelbase. Just a bit too much antisquat in the rear for me with the shorter wheelbase, so I'll have to see how it all ends up once I make new lowers. If it's not satisfactory I'll set up the uppers in the rear. I'm building some sort of servo mount, but it's a big pain in the ass with the gigantic novak rooster. Oh well. A skidplate is in the works, as mine is about to fall apart. Other than that it's just another stock rtc! Still trying to figure out what kind of foams to use with the EX's and if I want to bring the wheels down from their stock width, 1.25" wide, bead to bead. Thanks for looking

And check out my roommate's RS10! My roommate's RS10

[opek]

Some more pics for you all. Sorry my camera is at least 10 years old. I don't think it can take a picture too big to be uploaded here. haha :( Gotta get that front axle plate worked out so I can set up my caster. I am thinking of running the knuckles backwards and doing a front axle bar. Seems like the easiest way to avoid binding and keep everything tight.

[opek]

I ordered up one of the last Rocker chassis and was very happy to have it in my mailbox last week. I didn't get a chance to do much of anything besides work until yesterday. I am pleased with the result, but still have a few things to sort out.


I am very satisfied with the geometry in my steering links, but there are a bunch of issues driving me crazy. Most importantly I need to re drill the C's so I can grab some positive caster. I am almost constantly frustrated by it's refusal to drive against the direction of the terrain. Too much steering doesn't seem like it's ever a bad thing so I will need to make new front lower links to take advantage of ground down axle cups, but that will have to wait until later this week.

As far as axle steer, going from the A arm up top to the lightly triangulated uppers almost completely eliminated my torque twist but made my axle steer more intense. It was almost nonexistent with the lower links mounted next to each other on the axle and the stock upper control arm. I am guessing if I space out my lowers so they are more similar to the uppers that will reduce the axle steer? Moving them inward to the center of the chassis from the outer 1/3 of the chassis gave me no visible improvements in controlling torque twist. Any guidance here?

The car is pretty stable, but I seem to have lost a bit of sidehill capability. Any tips for shock tuning and placement to benefit the sidehill? I am thinking if I outboard the shocks I will be a little more stable since they were farther out when it was it was more stable, but these are complex machines and that is why I'm here! The ground clearance is 2.75" at the highest. The rear links could probably have a more aggressive bend, but I will have to wheel on these for a bit.

Your feedback is greatly appreciated! Thanks for looking.

[poncho_ponch]

I noticed a big difference when I out boarded my shocks. Alot more stable on sidehilling. Also if you ever decide to change your body give the Parma Xciter a try. The body is alot more narrow and the slight curve the body has makes a big difference.

[jimmyjet92@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by poncho_ponch

I noticed a big difference when I out boarded my shocks. Alot more stable on sidehilling. Also if you ever decide to change your body give the Parma Xciter a try. The body is alot more narrow and the slight curve the body has makes a big difference.

What do you mean outboarding your shocks? iv never heard of this before

[poncho_ponch]

I run my shocks on the outside tab of the axel towards the tire. Check out the fourth picture. JoNeS'N Frogger V2.1 "The Poison Dart" Im still running the ax10 frame.

[Devil Inc]

I'm diggin the urban crawler course, lol. Looks pretty capable, man.

[Tanis]

I checked out your post in the other thread and decided to click on the link in your sig.
One thing I'm noticing right away is you have the lower links as close together as possible at the chassis. I would suggest spacing them about 1/2" apart to reduce the triangulation some.
As Poncho said, outboard the rear shocks to the outside of the link-mounts and run a spacer to take up the space between the link-mounts and run a longer screw. This will help with stability and effectively bump up the spring rate without having to run a stiffer spring in the left rear to help combat torque-twist.

[opek]

Thanks so much for the input, everyone, it is all very much appreciated. I have reduced my axle steer significantly and controlled my torque steer as much as I think I'm willing to with my links. I will be tuning my shocks and springs along with foams next, so we will see if I need to revisit my links as I progress.

Ignore the tires as I know they are not what is ideal. Just like everyone locally I will be running a more standard style white rover. I will be ordering up a set sometime soon. Until then I get to cut these up as much as I think might help me wheel on a couch! I have a BRXL and the cheapest holmes 55t headed my way along with a 3s.

I am a little scared of burning out the servo and since messing with the sidewalls I am constantly in need of more steering power. I broke a cheap m3 bolt with the center of the drag link eye mounted 9mm above the knuckle. I have lowered it as much as is possible without reducing the steering torque. I hope it will hold up. I have also corrected my caster. The car drives a million times better. New front lowers will be great because I am stalling at full lock.

And most important of all: I really encourage feedback. I really have no idea what I'm doing and as much guidance as possible would be great!

Thanks again to all those who have helped me get so far!

Here are some pictures of it as it sits.

[Crawling Calvin]

Oh cool my Rocker

I'll get pix of my setup in a little bit, looking good though. I got a (non comp legal) bodiless upper if you want it

[Crawling Calvin]

Photos...
Old setup... it worked tho!

That one was good but the electronics plate bound it up a little. I am running a narrower skid FYI by .7"


My favorite {current} setup

I am running 4" shocks all around {the fronts have a home made cap mod and those were LIMITED to 4"} the car likes the current setup. if you want any diagrams let me know

Teaser with my friends band, bear with the camera audio quality and 1 handed driving, it helps to rope a poor person to freeze to death on a windy hill
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqcokZW2AP8

[opek]

That looks super awesome. I will be straightening up the rear shocks a bit in the near future. When this skidplate starts to give way I will smash this thing down as narrow as I can. Until then I will wheel it as it sits.

Here are some pictures of the suspension doing it's thing. I have some pics of my 'freestyle' comp inspired course on another computer. I will post those up in a few minutes.

[Crawling Calvin]

Whatever works

If I have enough Delrin I'll see about making a smaller skid for you. If not oh well

Oh feel free to post pix of the topper

[opek]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Whatever works

If I have enough Delrin I'll see about making a smaller skid for you. If not oh well

Oh feel free to post pix of the topper

Haha, that would be awesome. The dremel is not my favorite tool for cutting delrin. Anyway, thanks again for the absolutely kick ass topper. Here is a sweet pic of it and my truck down to the legal wheelbase. Up to 2.25" and 2.5" at the front and back of the skidplate. 2.5" all around when fully extended. Total articulation is limited to about 4.5"

edit: Here are some pics of the course!

[Crawling Calvin]

Nice course, looks a lil urban

Thanks for the complement, its not easy ill say that much, but it should work Hm tempted to update mine... nah ill wait till I get the Rocker 2.0 finished

Ok here we go! Minus me not getting any more sleep and completely re-doing it, here we go!

[opek]

That new design looks stronger and cooler! I am super excited.

The holmes stuff arrived yesterday, this morning was spend soldering up the ESC and motor. Now I can run a 3s and not cry every time I bind, haha. I can't wait to see how strong the servo is with a nice BEC. The final step will be a castle link and some mega volts. This ****ing 3s battery is gigantic. I wish I would have gone 850 over 1100. Damn my desire for run time.

I need to head down to the hobby shop and grab some shock oil, I would hate to put it all back together just to take it apart again (like that never happens).


I was going to angle the servo a little bit so the drag link is perpendicular to the knuckle halfway through it's rotation, rather than with the wheels pointed straight. I may have to raise the servo up and try and fit the battery on the front axle. I don't want to make a standard servo/battery tray, so I will see how I can maneuver this hunk of bent axial into a better position. I was thinking I'd give up some axle steer to move the whole tray backwards.

Oh well, work is never wasted if you learned something.

Maybe I will go stare at it for a few hours, haha.

[opek]

Pictures time! With a thinner skid I could place my front shocks farther out. More front plate business to come. I wouldn't mind getting the battery down there and off the links. For now the anti squat is dialed in perfectly and there is minimal axle steer. I have the left rear shock with a stiffer spring and stiffer oil. The front right shock is a bit higher viscosity oil and the front left has a bit more preload. Not sure on the weight as I just mixed up some oils I had laying around. I will go get some proper oil sometime soon. Until then I will keep wheeling. So far it's just about as good as it's ever been.

It is definitely time for some beefier front axles/universals.

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by opek

Having that long tail end of the srew right next to the servo case doesn't (severely) limit travel?

[opek]

Originally Posted by Trubble

Having that long tail end of the srew right next to the servo case doesn't (severely) limit travel?

The inside tire will hit the lower link before the servo case will limit travel. I plan to flip my steering back to the front so the outside tire turns more than the inside. I also need to decide on how I want to tackle the universals to take advantage of the increased turning.




Anyway, the motor has been great for 1/3 pack I've put on it. I need to reverse the timing on the can before I burn this sucker up. I know it's not a handwound or a puller, but it combined with the brxl it makes for some great crawling. The beeping of that esc thing is so friendly inviting, like a BMW or Mercedes when you open the door.

Should I be worried that my battery arc when I plug it into the esc? Sometimes I don't get a clean insert and it will arc a few times.

[Crawling Calvin]

Looks a ton better on shocks angle

Mine have done that and they still work. It's just a fact to deal with I guess

So how long till it's rolling!

Ps: granted all goes good Monday out goes the upper/spacers