AX10 Class 3 scaler Bronco build, cont'd

[Josh_Br]

Put brake line over the all thread of the suspension links tonight. While I was at it, I shortened them ever so slightly (1/16" maybe, or maybe 1/8"). This gives a little more room between the panhard bar and the axle mount of the upper control arm. I think it's ready for the comp Saturday now.

One thing that bums me out is that the servo horn hits the axle and limits travel. I may try to shave it down a little (the horn). Both my rigs now have CMS. The other truck is a hand brothers kit. It's cool, but it still limits the travel, compared to an axle mounted servo.

[felixg]

Looking really good Dirt makes it realistic

[Josh_Br]

I reversed the servo, so the horn is against the frame on the driver's side instead of more towards the center of the truck. Not sure why I didn't do this initially. It seems to have given the front of the rig a little more of that lost shock compression back. I'd also like to move it forward slightly. Before this CMS mod, I had plenty of steering to stuff the steering knuckle arms into the c-hubs. Now, they *almost* touch. This slight loss of steering bothers me. I think I has to do with the location of the servo horn being behind the steering knuckle ends, if you looked at it from above. I think if I move it forward a little it will fix this. Will let you know!

Also, I found out the dimensions of the Wraith Bronco body. It's about an inch shorter and an inch more narrow in the center than the HPI body. I ordered one. I think it will do nicely on this rig; it should suit what I have been wanting in a body. This being a class 3 truck, I have been wanting it to look more modified than it does.

[Josh_Br]

Tonight I moved the servo forward and down slightly. I initally moved it forward, and then the end of the horn was hitting the end of the frame when it rotated, so I had to move it down about 1/8". As I mentioned above, I also reversed the servo compared to how I had it installed. I did gain the shock compression range I was looking for, as the where the horn bolts to the servo no longer hits the axle. The limiting factor now is the panhard bar; it is what hits the axle now and limits compression. It's not much though; the shocks can compress close to the entire stroke, which should be enough. Here are a few photos:







Moving the servo forward also helped me gain back nearly all of that steering travel I lost when I went from axle-mounted servo to my homemade CMS, so I'm a happy camper in this regard too:





I wanted to test the articulation now that the CMS setup is finished, front axle stretched forward, etc. It's the same as it was prior to these mods:

[Tin Soldier]

move that panhard out a little further on the axle so it doesn't hit the driveshaft if that's where your issue. Mine mounts near those two holes on top of the axles. ALthough I am positive you will figure it out. Your builds are simply amazing and well though out.

[Josh_Br]

Thanks for the nice words guys! You are very kind. Yeah, the issue with the panhard bar is that it hits the top of the pumpkin. Ryan, doesn't yours (on your Tundra) have a bend in it to help alleviate that problem? Although, my truck still articulates fine, it just limits compression about a 1/4" when the front end is pushed down evenly. It would probably only be an issue if I drove off the roof or something...

So with the Wraith Bronco body on the way, which has an open top, I've been thinking about one word: cage. I'll need to come up with a cage to cover the driver/passenger area, then hopefully taper back and provide an area to mount or store the spare tire and toolbox. I've been enjoying working with brake line lately; it's forgiving and pretty easy to use. I've never brazed it, so that may be a new adventure on the horizon. Right now, I am thinking that the cage will attach to the frame rails at six points, and would basically be permanent. I was thinking I would swap the locations of the battery and of the electronics in the truck, so the battery is between the tranny and front axle (it should probably be up there anyhow for weight purposes). Then the new body can be removed to expose the battery when needed.

This new body will be about an inch more narrow in the center, so new sliders will be needed; I don't think I'll like stock SCX10 sliders sticking out 3/4" or so on each side.

Thoughts / ideas welcome!

[avanord]

I like the direction that you are headed. i dont think that the panhard is a problem. If the only way that it limits travel is when the suspension moves straight up and down. If you still get full articulation you should be good. My bug currently hits on my servo and limits verticle articulation, but I still have full travel if only 1 side is traveling. It works great for me like that. As for brazing I am sure that you will pick it up quickly it is really quite easy.

[Josh_Br]

Thanks Adam. So you guys who are experienced brazers -- What is the * cheapest * solder and flux I should use? I already have a MAPP gas torch. Thanks

[Tin Soldier]

Originally Posted by Josh_Br

Thanks Adam. So you guys who are experienced brazers -- What is the * cheapest * solder and flux I should use? I already have a MAPP gas torch. Thanks

Get the safety silv kit from home depot online. Its worth the money. Then buy extra silver later. O will get you a link when I get home. Do metal boat sides instead of sliders. They'll work better

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[Josh_Br]

Thanks Boat sides are a good idea.

[avanord]

I use bronze brazing rod. It was like 10 bucks at my local hardware store. It is super strong I have never broken anything yet. I know that everyone uses safety silv, but this would be a cheaper option and it works!!! I have a picture of it in my bug build thread if you want to check it out and look into it.

[Tin Soldier]

I bought this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100672835 then when I ran out of wire, I just bought a generic brand 45% silver. I like it because it makes nice clean braze and it's easy to clean up. What I like is, where you put the flux, that's where the silver goes. The kit has enough flux to last you the rest of your life and it cleans up with water. :-) I tried cheap stuff and it didn't work at all.

[Josh_Br]

Thanks guys! My budget is running low, but I do already have flux (plumbing flux - I would think it would work the same). I think I will try to stop by Home Depot tonight and see what's available without breaking the bank.

[Tin Soldier]

Plumbing flux is different I think and they don't carry safety silv at home depot only online. And its $48 for the same kit at Goss Gas.

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[Tin Soldier]

I have some home depot cheap crap that I bought and it doesn't work at all.

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[avanord]

I did the same thing. It works great for plumbing. But definitely not for brazing brake line. It just runs off.

[Josh_Br]

Ok, thanks guys. Adam, what flux do you use?

[Tin Soldier]

Originally Posted by Josh_Br

Ok, thanks guys. Adam, what flux do you use?

He uses the rods that have it built in, I think.

[Josh_Br]

Thanks Ryan. Just trying to figure out how to do it good but at the lowest price.

Tonight I messed with welding brake line with my mig welder. I thought it would burn through but it did not.

[avanord]

Tin is correct. I use the rods that have the flux coating on them.