AX10 Scorpion electronics options/opinions needed

[FOXX]

So I acquired an AX10 Scorpion through a trade and it came with a tuber style buggy body, a bunch of aluminum upgrades etc...It's pretty much modded to the max. Bent links, Proline weighted wheels, etc...

The electronics I should run have me stumped. I'm used to running my Losi mini rock crawler and 1/16 Traxxas so I'm not as schooled on the heavier 1/10 scale power delivery systems.

Here's the issue I had after getting this rig. I ran about 3 packs through it before the battery went up in smoke. I haven't used it since. I'm not sure what went wrong either. The battery looked a bit older but wasn't swelled up or anything. I don't remember if it was 2s or 3s.

It came with a Novak Fifty Five with a 14T pinion and an 87T spur, new SV2 ESC, HR tires (can't remember the style). I had to buy a new Futaba S3305 steering servo and I put a CCBEC on it. Is there something wrong with how this was set up? Wrong gearing? etc... It seemed to have good wheel speed so I'm not sure if the slower crawling I did with it stressed something out. Basically I want a bulletproof setup that I don't have to worry about temps as much. I check temps regularly anyways just by habit.

I'm not opposed to getting a different motor, esc or gearing changes. I just need some advise as to a proper setup and also things to avoid. I almost got rid of this thing after it blew up but the platform is good and the more I think about it, the more I want to keep it. I don't want to shell out the money to get a G1 or a Wraith since I have a proven rig to begin with. Not to mention, one that's already modded...I'd like to do some crawling with it but more towards a faster rock racer. Maybe even get a 2 speed tranny at some point.

Any ideas on gearing, motor, speed control?? Or are the ones I have already good enough? And lets not forget the all important batteries! Shoud I run 2S, 3S or?? Is it advisable to run lipo with brushed?

Thanks in advance!

[heinz357]

....did you disconnect the middle wire on your ESC before you added the CCBEC??

Theres some good posts on here about adapting your wiring when adding BEC, have a peek in the electronics section!

[FOXX]

Originally Posted by heinz357

....did you disconnect the middle wire on your ESC before you added the CCBEC??

Theres some good posts on here about adapting your wiring when adding BEC, have a peek in the electronics section!

I forgot to mention that. YES I did disconnect the center wire. I followed the CC manual to the letter.

[Trubble]

Originally Posted by FOXX

The battery looked a bit older but wasn't swelled up or anything. I don't remember if it was 2s or 3s. ..... It came with a Novak Fifty Five with a 14T pinion and an 87T spur, new SV2 ESC, HR tires (can't remember the style). I had to buy a new Futaba S3305 steering servo and I put a CCBEC on it........ It seemed to have good wheel speed so I'm not sure if the slower crawling I did with it stressed something out.

Electronics choices seem solid enough.
14/87 is stock gearing for that vehicle, and what I run, so that shouldn't be a problem.
The Novak 55 turn is just a direct replacement for the stock silver-can 55 turn, so should be fine there.
If you had 'good wheel speed' with a 55 turn geared that low, I'd strongly suspect you were running a 3S. I ran a 3S with my old AE-1 esc (w/ CC BEC) and it worked fine.
I would think if your wiring wasn't up to snuff, you wouldn't have gotten through the first 2 packs.
Only way I could see 'low speed crawling' as being harmful is if you got your rig into a complete bind (unable to move at all), and you just kept the throttle pinned until something blew. The way you write, I just don't get the feeling you're the type to do that. (and I'm talking more than just a momentary stab, I'm talking holding the throttle. I've tried powering out of getting stuck cross-wise in a tunnel and batts/ESCs/motors can take a little bit of strain, just not prolonged abuse)

My guesses as to why the battery smoked would be battery age/condition, or perhaps your LVC was turned off, and the truck kept right on going when the voltage got too low. I'd personally get a hold of a CastleLink or field programming card, and check that LVC. I run mine in 'Auto-Lipo' mode with a cutoff of 3.5 volts per cell. Unfortunately, the voltage of a fully charged 7 cell NiMh is extremely close to a spent 3S Lipo, so if I try to run a 7 cell, my LVC kicks in, and the ESC never even arms. (6 cells registers as a 2S, and runs fine, but tends to get cut short).

Let us know if you find out anything else.

[FOXX]

Thanks for the reply Trubble and heinz!

I never gave it any thought to check the LVC. The guy I bought the setup from said the speed control was new which I believe was true since it was spotless and fresh looking but never gave it any though to look into the adjustment of the parameters over default. He may have had it set up for nimh but then went lipo...? Who knows. Later today I'll plug it into my link card and check it out. I've never actually used the thing since I've installed the software on my computer or even the card itself. It came with my MMP.

Anyways, I never hold it down when in a bind. I've seen guys do that and I thank that it's not mine. My guess is when it blew, the speed control seemed fine (no smoke) but I haven't tested it since so who knows. All I know is the lipo is toast since it sprayed it's acid(?) all over the place including my hands.

I will report back when I get more info on this. In the mean time, is there a certain battery I should try to find for it? I'm liking the speed and power of 3s.

[Trubble]

I use THESE and THESE, (good prices on LiPo sacks, too). Even with stepping up to a 35 turn Brood motor, they still give well in excess of a 1/2 hour run time. I'm sure my motor would love more mAh and C, but what I got is what I got.