Haastnooit's AXR10 2.2s NCD SuDu1 / SuDu1 FL

[joshsmith512]

i run a wb8 in the back with aluminum reinforcment, but i could not get one to hold up in the front using a 13t crawlmaster on 3s. they kept looking like a candy cane, besides mip up front is weight in the right place. keep up the super clean work

[Haastnooit]

OK ... OK ... I tried to be lazy and not have to do the drive shaft mod

Your opinions got me back on track ... no slacking I just finished reinforcing the driveshafts with epoxy and a 5mm CF rod I will let it cure overnight and report back later with a weight update.

Now it is time to scavenge my ole BJ4 for the servo and focus on finalizing the steering setup and electronics layout ...

[Haastnooit]

I got a bit to easy regarding the driveshafts, guess it is caused by almost nearing the end of the build and wanting to finish this up. Proper update of the driveshafts below, a bit quicker then I said above … I got new epoxy and what do you know …. it cures in 1 hour ! Nice

Driveshafts

Axial WB8 Driveshaft set
CF rod 5mm

Mods:
- driveshaft (reinforcement) mod

I needed new shafts for this build and decided to go for the WB8 shafts. I knew the reinforcements were necessary and therefore I had allready ordered CF 5mm rod in advance. Almost cut the corner by skipping it … oops



Inner diameter off the driveshaft is 5.85mm, so the 5mm rod will fit easy. I made the piece a bit longer so I could easily hold it and move up and down, and twist while inserting. When the epoxy was cured, I cut it to the right size.

Weights:

The driveshaft mod added 4 grams to the driveshafts …

[FesterUK]

Hi how long are your upper links? this is my first time building a crawler, so I'm not sure where to start.


Thanks

[Haastnooit]

Originally Posted by Haastnooit

Jan, I send you a PM ...

I will put the info down here also .... mock-up upperlinks as shown in the previous post are 110mm in front and 128mm in rear e2e length.

No problem Fester ... you can ask away here You got me thinking if I did mention the measurements .... but I did

I will probably try some shorter (108mm) front upperlinks to get a little bit more caster

[FesterUK]

Ah must of missed it thanks is e2e including the rod ends? sorry for the newbie questions used to my scalers.

[Haastnooit]

Yes e2e (eye to eye) measurements are taken from center rodball to center rodball, so they include the rodends

If you are using revo rodends the distance of the center rodball to the base of the rodends is 17 mm

[FesterUK]

Thanks you have been a huge help with my SuDu build

[Haastnooit]

Progress is very slow lately … we have had some nice weather finally, so I did a lot of work in the garden … and not so much on the SuDu. But I got back at it yesterday and finalized the steering setup .



I added the C-hub mod to the front axle to obtain more castor, it also eliminated the revo balls below the tierod as seen in previous posts. I ended up simply attaching the draglink below the knuckle arm and the tierod on top. No spacers, a perfect fit and and max steering is limited by the revo end of the draglink or the nut hitting the C-hub.

The draglink is made of 4mm CF rod, offcourse I used “The TotoRax way” to do it. Real curious to see if it will hold up ...





I think the steering angle is pretty descent for using stock XR10 knuckles, totally happy with the result. As for the electronics setup, I am going to run the lipo next to the servo and get the electronics (ESC, BEC and RX) shrinked up and place the package on the E-tray ...

[vovo]

Looks Great Ronald,i see you later to day

[Haastnooit]

Thanks Jan ... yeah I see you later today, make sure you don't forget anything

[EverettY]

That looks amazing!

So are you going to the German SuperCrawl?

[Haastnooit]

Thanks Everett

Sadly I am not going to the Supercrawl .... this year .... I hope I will be able to next year though

[63comet]

Nice work! Whats your width front and rear currently?

[Haastnooit]

Thanks 63comet I just measured the width front and rear ... outside tire to outside tire.

front: 275 mm
rear: 270 mm

[63comet]

Originally Posted by Haastnooit

Thanks 63comet I just measured the width front and rear ... outside tire to outside tire.

front: 275 mm
rear: 270 mm

Thanks. With the voodoo's mounted i think im right at 11 inches f/r.

[Hardline]

Originally Posted by Haastnooit

The draglink is made of 4mm CF rod, offcourse I used “The TotoRax way” to do it. Real curious to see if it will hold up

Could you explain that? I've seen 4mm CF rods epoxied into Revo rod ends, but are there tricks people have come up with? I think JeremyH mentioned using small fixing pins, but I'm reluctant to drill holes due to weakening.

[Haastnooit]

Post 60 in this thread explains the method developed by TotoRax.

Post 72 shows pics of them tested to failure and has some autopsy pics as well

[WAM]

Originally Posted by Haastnooit

Post 60 in this thread explains the method developed by TotoRax.

Post 72 shows pics of them tested to failure and has some autopsy pics as well

I suppose the reason for threading the rod end while fitting an unthreaded CF rod is just for anchoring the epoxy. I have only drilled Revo r/e's to 4mm, applied epoxy and pressed things together. No adhesive failures to date...the weak link seems to be minor buckling of the 4mm CF rod on the longer rear links. Still they never failed...just got a little wavy and ugly. Shorter front links still look like new.

I like your idea of using them for steering links, although I'd miss the adjustability. I seldom get those links perfect first try.

[Haastnooit]

Yes, you are right. The adhesive strength of the epoxy to CF tube/rod is greater as to the plastic rodends. The thread will add strength to the weakest joint by providing anchoring and also enlarges the adhesive surface somewhat.

The pics TotoRax made showing the failed rodend imo got to convince anyone this is a very good way of going about CF links. The material of the rodend is proven the weakest part not the epoxy joints. Makes you feel safe ....

I think the amount of work involved is minor so why not