Reinventing my AX10...(again) Sucker Punch Chassis time.

[Crawllife]

56/10 seems to be the gear ratio that works well for me and a few others. Yes, trimming those front uppers is the ticket. I've never seen torque twist in the front. Only the rear. Mirroring the trans or turning the trans around to put the motor on the other side is the best defense against torque twist. Not pinion angle bud.


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[Master Basher]

^ drive it in reverse if you wanna see front axle tt. 56/10 wont work with the stock trans will it?

[ROWDY RACING]

Do the same with your rear pinion angle, it DOES affect tt.

[JeremyH]

It might just be me not seeing the pics correctly on my phone, but it looks like you have your rear uppers bolted directly into the posts of the housing. If that is the case, you'll need to brace that area. A cross brace (between the two posts) at minimum...would be best to have something that bolted to the inner face of the housing as well.

Nice looking rig!

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

It might just be me not seeing the pics correctly on my phone, but it looks like you have your rear uppers bolted directly into the posts of the housing. If that is the case, you'll need to brace that area. A cross brace (between the two posts) at minimum...would be best to have something that bolted to the inner face of the housing as well.

Nice looking rig!

Hey thanks. Yeah thats the case. I wanted to mock it up and the links just happened to work right there. Im waiting on some g10 parts from turbofest to link up the back correctly. I need a die to thread some links too.

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

Do the same with your rear pinion angle, it DOES affect tt.

U mean run the rear flat with the ground too?

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

U mean run the rear flat with the ground too?

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

U mean run the rear flat with the ground too?

I am going to have to disagree with Rowdy. The reason you want driveline angles equal and opposite is for phasing. With a CVD driveline you should be OK. Plus because your not driving at highway speeds you would not notice it. I set up my shafty with the joint up and out of the way.


I had a Jeep with about 600 hp small block that kept shitting u joints. 2.5 degrees in axle pinion change was all it took to correct what had been thousands of dollars in damage from multiple destroyed drivelines from u joint failure. Once I was schooled ( NHRA Pro Stock driver who is local to me helped me with set up and ended my issues) I never had another problem.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by The Violator

I am going to have to disagree with Rowdy. The reason you want driveline angles equal and opposite is for phasing. With a CVD driveline you should be OK. Plus because your not driving at highway speeds you would not notice it. I set up my shafty with the joint up and out of the way.


I had a Jeep with about 600 hp small block that kept shitting u joints. 2.5 degrees in axle pinion change was all it took to correct what had been thousands of dollars in damage from multiple destroyed drivelines from u joint failure. Once I was schooled ( NHRA Pro Stock driver who is local to me helped me with set up and ended my issues) I never had another problem.

For high powered 1:1 rigs I totally agree with you. On 1:10 scale crawlers flat pinion angles keep things more stable IMO. Either way you will only find out what works for you by trial and error.

[Dostradamas]

This makes me very curious, this pinion angle thang.
I tucked my universals up above the links so they would be out of harms way, smoother underside, and a more in line angle for the transfer of energy from the tranny.
Torque twist for me is within an acceptable range (less would be better.)
I am doing a chassis upgrade soon on the sporty & maybe a pinion angled parallel to the ground setup is in order to see for my self.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

For high powered 1:1 rigs I totally agree with you. On 1:10 scale crawlers flat pinion angles keep things more stable IMO. Either way you will only find out what works for you by trial and error.

Only reason it would keep things stable is the elimination of the out of phase acceleration/deceleration that might make the car jumpy with a true universal and not a cvd like he is using ( And at the speeds these are turning you would be hard pressed to notice it). Otherwise I would say its all in your mind, because it cannot be proven on paper.


The benefits of keeping the driveline out of the way far outweigh any perceived notion of stability.

[TSK]

I guess I'm doing it all wrong then cause I normally try to keep the front flat and the rear clocked up so that the driveshaft and rear yoke are inline.

The build looks like it's coming along great. Keep in mind there is no "wrong" way to build it. Just do what you want with it and if it doesn't work, try something else. Keep at it

Oh and by 56/10 he is referring to 32p gears.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

I guess I'm doing it all wrong then cause I normally try to keep the front flat and the rear clocked up so that the driveshaft and rear yoke are inline.

The build looks like it's coming along great. Keep in mind there is no "wrong" way to build it. Just do what you want with it and if it doesn't work, try something else. Keep at it

Oh and by 56/10 he is referring to 32p gears.

The rear up and out of the way is best. It would be great on the front also, but it makes the throw of the servo really funky because of the clocked back knuckles and the forward leaning servo. Also many people keep the rear clocked up because if you have a slanted skid ( unless you machine the skid to straighten the tranny angle) , you have to in order to keep the transmission joint from binding

[cboggs]

I also run the front flat and the rear clocked up a bit. I have noticed there is a limit to how far you can go on the clocking where it will make the car unstable if you go to far. A sway bar will also help control torque twist to some degree, but that's not why we run them.

[ROWDY RACING]

I was just giving setup advise from the winningest chassis ever, designed by a multi time national champion, enough evidence for me. Good luck and have fun.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by cboggs

I also run the front flat and the rear clocked up a bit. I have noticed there is a limit to how far you can go on the clocking where it will make the car unstable if you go to far. A sway bar will also help control torque twist to some degree, but that's not why we run them.

Yeah up slightly isn't bad mine is very slightly tilted to break the angle of the outer bearing housing from slamming directly into rocks, but pointed directly at the trans makes things wonky.

Front flat NO doubt about it, and SLIGHT tilt of the rear axle is my advice, take it for what it's worth and see what works for you.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

I was just giving setup advise from the winningest chassis ever, designed by a multi time national champion, enough evidence for me. Good luck and have fun.

So are you running a gatekeeper? If not, why. Is your chassis and links AL? If not why? Are you running stock width AX-10 axles? If not why not. They were all designed by what you call the most winning chassis ever. And OH my I hope your car is 8 pounds, like the gatekeepers were. I hope you toss your bully axles in the trash and go back to stock width ax10 axles with a mechanical dig. Because gatekeeper says so.



Or you could step out of 2008. Just like Gatekeeper did, and run a Ytown car.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by The Violator

So are you running a gatekeeper? If not, why. Is your chassis and links AL? If not why? Are you running stock width AX-10 axles? If not why not. They were all designed by what you call the most winning chassis ever. And OH my I hope your car is 8 pounds, like the gatekeepers were. I hope you toss your bully axles in the trash and go back to stock width ax10 axles with a mechanical dig. Because gatekeeper says so.



Or you could step out of 2008. Just like Gatekeeper did, and run a Ytown car.

You know I run Y-town cars, I just use the og geo principles, works for me (my rigs more like a GC3 than you know).
I was just giving advise, no need to start an argument.

Love you Ted.

[Master Basher]

Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING

I was just giving setup advise from the winningest chassis ever, designed by a multi time national champion, enough evidence for me. Good luck and have fun.

your opinion and advice are appreciated.

[ROWDY RACING]

Originally Posted by Master Basher

your opinion and advice are appreciated.

Sorry to clutter your thread, lets move on.