Another UnStuck is born

[kmnss]

Decided that it's time to add another shafty to the herd. I'll be stealing most of the parts from my FF4 build because I want to use some AR60's on that one.

Craftmanship is excellent on this, thanks Krazed! Also, came with plenty of Starburst to get the build kicked off right!

Standard fare AX10 axles, VP, RCBros brass tubes front, XR universals, etc.... Krazed tossed in a set of ackermann arms that are made for the VP knuckles!







I need shorter shocks! Order some Traxxas 2660's which should be in sometime next week.

[kmnss]

Waiting on Amazon for some shocks. Also ordered a Parma Xciter, so she'll get a new shell. I plan on picking up the LURC slipper eliminator, this backwards "make it work" slipper eliminator is too long to fit the chassis braces properly.

[nerby149]

Truck looks great, you will not be at all disappointed with your unstuck, it is a great chassis, performs fantastic, and very easy to set up.

"GOD SPEED"

[barrybelvedere]

I've got one also I am working on....

[kmnss]

Pics to follow this evening, however moving to the 2660's on the front has given this thing a nice stance. Brought the front down where it needs to be and allowed the rear to have plenty of clearance. I'll be swapping out the rears to the shorter shocks, but I have a feeling I'll be using the longer 2662's on the rear, and 2660's on the front. Hopefully I can get some driving in tonight as well.

[Robbob]

Interested to see what the BB's look like on this ... Im happy with my SCX's but always looking for better things.

[kmnss]

I used the DLUX stainless shock bushings up top, DLUX spring retainers, and some bent rod ends on the bottom. Flex's well, but probably a little too much. I'll limit them if it does, but driving will tell. Right now, I've got 35wt Associated in the rears and whatever oil comes with the 2660's in the fronts. Lighter than the 35wt for sure.

[kmnss]

Shorter shocks are MUCH more beneficial! Perfect amount of flex now, and I can't wait to get it on the rocks. Gotta mess with the body mounts, get a LURC slipper eliminator, and get a few little things ironed out.





Stance is way shorter now, much better.

Also had to move the rear uppers inward on the axle. This help axle sway a lot, so I may move them to the outside of the chassis after some testing.



Flecks:



Time to get some wheeltime in and fine tune her.

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by salompas

Look great truck

Thanks!

Now, for crappy videos. Durability testing, HolmesSlowCrawl, and pirouettes. Maiden voyage right here, on the backyard rock pile. The skid scratches make me think I need softer springs in the rear with the same oil, and heavier springs in the front with thicker oil. Currently: Front - Pink Mini T springs, stock Traxxas oil. Rear - Associated RC18 Blue springs, 30WT Associated oil. Both front and rear are Traxxas 2660's with angled rod ends, DLUX spring cups and DLUX stainless upper mounts.

[kmnss]

[Robbob]

Ive always thought RC18T springs were too stiff on anything I tried. Right now Im running MRC Green rears on mine if that helps. Maybe try MRC Reds on the rear? Im just noticing it articulates smooth but doesnt seem like it wants to squat on climbs much.

BB's dampen different (in my mind) then SCX because the volume of oil is more inside. Even 30wt in them always feels heavier to me then 50 in a SCx shock. Maybe try 30 all the way around and if it seems too springy in the rear try going 35?

Glad to see you got her rolling though

[kmnss]

I'm thinking the same thing as far as the springs go. I used the 18T springs on a DNA SlingShot, and didn't like them then.

For this chassis I'm leaning towards:

Front - Orange Mini T with 30wt
Rear - Red or Pink Mini T with 35wt

I feel like the fronts need to be a bit stiffer on this chassis, when it's used in 60/40. The oil seems to make a minimal difference, but the spring rates are key. I am running a stiffer spring out back and feel like it wants to come over the front when dropping down, and pull over backwards when going up.

We shall see. I'll be testing and tuning all weekend. BTW! Thanks for the Ackermann arms.

[kmnss]

I made some changes. About a month ago.

I've swapped the "under the axle" steering to the front, used the Krazed ackermann arms, got new balls (TRX5355X aluminum), and tinkered and tweaked a bit. I swapped in a shorter top gear to get the braces where they are supposed to be, took a dremel to the universals, made a crappy server horn, replaced the MIP driveshafts with WB8 HD's, and made it drive more to my liking.

As for the chassis, I cannot say enough about the quality on a "budget" chassis. This ain't a budget chassis, it's a really badass chassis for cheap.





Also, finally got stability in the rear. It used to be unpredictable.... now it's strong. I used the offset balls and the spacer included in the 5355X kit to get everything triangulated correctly and secured.

[Robbob]

Nice idea on the servo horn

[kmnss]

Thanks! It doesn't look like it in the pics, but those wheels are probably turned 60 degrees. I can't bring myself to push them any further. They'll go, but I think it's the "safe" spot for the uni's. I've got my eye on Erik's FBA axles, but I've gotta break these first.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Most universals will only go 50* before binding. It's easy to take them apart to do it yourself. Bonus is if you take off too much they'll break sooner so you have an excuse to get FBA's.

[Stuck]

Rig is looking good You may want to try giving yourself more separation on the rear links. Move them to the outside of the chassis and to the outside of the rear link mount. I felt that it gave the rig a more stable feel in off camber situations and helps keep the rear end from lifting.

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Most universals will only go 50* before binding. It's easy to take them apart to do it yourself. Bonus is if you take off too much they'll break sooner so you have an excuse to get FBA's.

Yep! They were put through the dremel a few weeks ago, I'm hoping I took too much off....

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by Stuck

You may want to try giving yourself more separation on the rear links. Move them to the outside of the chassis and to the outside of the rear link mount.

Finally got around to doing this, and it's an excellent move. I initially had them on the outside, but I was running some Pitbull Xor's. With the narrow pins, I just left it alone. After moving it back to the outside, it is where I am going to be keeping this. Works considerably more stability into the mix. Also running some shaved sidewall Rovers in the front now, helps a bit too. The pins wear out too fast for me on the fronts.

Thanks!

[kmnss]

Also, shaving the tires down is a complete PITA!