AR60 FF4 Experiment

[kmnss]

I was going to use the FF4 chassis with the AXR10 axles that I built for it, but ended up using an Un-Stuck because I wanted to give AR60's a shot under one of my most favorite chassis' ever.... the FF4. I miss my Fastback from back in the day and picked up a new FF4 from Juan about a year ago.

Well, I manged to find a decent deal on a starter set of AR60 axles, which included the VP lockouts, two perfect axle cases, universals, gears, etc. Picked them up for about 60 bucks on ebay.

So far, I've added OD/UD gears, lockers, DLUX sporty trusses, and some other goodies. Coming from AX10 axles, I had no idea just how wide these axles were. These are wider than Kyosho Rock Force axles, and we all remember how little cred those things got. Yes, I've also built a Rock Force, and I wish I still had the axles. Anyways....

With the FF4 chassis, I've milled out the skid for weight savings and removed the "ribs" from the bottom of the skid. I have plans to cut chassis sides out of carbon fiber, but in the mean time I'm going to toss the aluminum sides on the mill and cut some meat out of them.





Mocking up some link lengths:



And, finally getting a little closer after ordering some Lunsford Rock Grinders for cheap:

Front- Getting the lenths right with different length aluminum spacers and tube, I'll order the right length to bend after I get everything dialed in correctly. I'm shooting for a 12.3 static 12.5 squat wheelbase.











Going to see where I need to be with driveshafts so that the links can be bent accordingly. Plenty of driveshafts to test:

[C*H*U*D]

Pics not working

[kmnss]

Lemme know if that fixed the pics. Apparently Google Photo's doesn't like to share nicely with vbb bulletin boards.

[calcagno45]

Looks good now.

[kmnss]

Driveshaft time. I'm completely anti-MIP because of the weight, but they are all I had for driveshafts that are complete. Novas Ark sent over an extended output made from 7075 that is absolutely outstanding. With my driving style, it should last well too.



Rear:



Front:



We will see how long these stay on there, I used a Kyosho MP9 universal with a Vorza cup, but it bound up something fierce when under full flex. I will probably end up using WB8 HD's like I did with my Un-Stuck build.

[rob5059]

Looks good. Are your lower links binding?

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by rob5059

Looks good. Are your lower links binding?

As a matter of fact they are. I'm out of MAPP gas to heat these up and bend them, so that will probably happen next weekend. Also, she measures out to 12 and 3/4" which I will take up when I finally bend the links.

[kmnss]

Also looks like I'll be ordering some Dravtech goodies....

Battery/electronic tray for Dlux Truss – DravTech



Will be mounting the battery to this, probably a small one at that. Electronics will be mounted near the transmission, much like on my Un-Stuck build. Gonna be Holmes mini-br, and a Br00d motor that I have to rebuild. Gotta break out the lathe....

[kmnss]

Got a few things done this weekend, namely steering and bent links.

[kmnss]

I like old school. The Peeenchy crab is back.

[C*H*U*D]

I'm interested to see how that skid mod works. The very first F-4 and FF-4 used a totally smooth skid, and was later modified with the grooves to keep from sliding off obstacles sideways.

Was your Fastback modified the same way?

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I'm interested to see how that skid mod works. The very first F-4 and FF-4 used a totally smooth skid, and was later modified with the grooves to keep from sliding off obstacles sideways.

Was your Fastback modified the same way?

Nope, the Fastback was stock skid that was just pocketed for weight reduction. I'm interested to see how it works as well, I left the ribs under the chassis sides, so it'll have some sideways resistance.

[kmnss]

Too wide.

[WHITE-TRASH]

If it's too wide you did something wrong.

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

If it's too wide you did something wrong.

First time she's had kicks on. Clearly going to need different wheel hubs and wheels. Flat faced is a must. Sitting at a foot wide, with 475 hubs and some DCW wheels.

Going to pickup some new wheels, probably glue on that are flat faced.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Definitely need different wheels. The hubs aren't terrible but you might end up with the tires eating links and shocks if you get too narrow.


I'm running dlux .450 hubs with a .220" shift spacer and dlux flat face wheels and I'm barely over 12" with fat jconcepts tires. This much offset keeps the tires from eating the li ks and shocks too bad but they still hit rather bad. The rear is barely over 11" with slw's and narrow shift hubs. Flat face wheels out back would easily bring it in under 11".

[kmnss]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Definitely need different wheels. The hubs aren't terrible but you might end up with the tires eating links and shocks if you get too narrow.


I'm running dlux .450 hubs with a .220" shift spacer and dlux flat face wheels and I'm barely over 12" with fat jconcepts tires. This much offset keeps the tires from eating the li ks and shocks too bad but they still hit rather bad. The rear is barely over 11" with slw's and narrow shift hubs. Flat face wheels out back would easily bring it in under 11".

Just ordered a set of DLUX beadlocks, .225 and .350 VP hubs. We'll see how it fits after that. I'm used to my AXR10 modded Un-Stuck, so this was shockingly wide. I run DCW wheels with .450's on that thing.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by kmnss

Just ordered a set of DLUX beadlocks, .225 and .350 VP hubs. We'll see how it fits after that. I'm used to my AXR10 modded Un-Stuck, so this was shockingly wide. I run DCW wheels with .450's on that thing.

That will narrow you up a lot. I remeasured last night and running a few degrees of toe out in right at 12" up front and the rear is 11 1/4" the right combination of the gs makes all the difference.

[kmnss]

.225 is a no-go for the DLUX wheels on the front. .350 on the rear with the DLUX wheels is a go. .225 on the DCW's up front is a go, but leaves little room for anything else, like weight.

Ordered .725 for the front so that the DLUX wheel's will fit properly.

With .350's on the rear, with 1" DLUX beadlocks and the RC3wd pin tires, I'm at 10-3/4". Just a Mediterranean CH over 11-1/8" out front with same tires and DCW wheels.

[WHITE-TRASH]

What was the interference, steering arms? I guess the way dlux steering arms (on his knuckles) are shaped keeps things in check when running his wheels.

After assembling a set of dlux brass knuckles for a friend last week I think his 8mm stub axle stuff also is wider than typical ar60/xr from the "u-joint" to the pin in the stub axle. That alone would make my measurements different than those you're dealing with.

Maybe the answer it to throw money at it in the form of dlux knuckles and loaded dice.