Booyah my first real rc crawler
 

So finally something comes out that I can justify spending money on. Before I would look at prices and be like...um hell no that's x or x for my REAL truck.

The plan (I'm a total noob so help is appreciated):
Stretch the weelbase as far as I can as the kit allows. Run a toyota body preferably second gen if they exist...anyone? I'm gonna try to get it looking similar to mine...but don't know how that will go, we'll see....cause I need just a cab and then build a box. And then I'm gonna get adaptors eventually or make some and run the nylint rims and tires...they seem super squishy on the nylint so we'll see how that works.

As far as electronics go I'll be diggin out stuff from storage from like 8 years ago. I have an old rooster esc with reverse and futiba sp? remote and servo. I'll buy the lathe 55 motor..I think that's what you guys call it. And that's it, not spending money on anything else....yet


Should be here next week sometime....:-D:-D:-D STOKED!

I bought a nylint when they came out cause they were cheap....and then there were no other options untill now :lol:. This is my nylint thread http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/general-crawlers/23107-how-convert-your-jeep-tj-toyota-landcruiser.html with a video of it here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IyxrMZjkhVg..it has a tummy tuck now but the monster size of the diffs would get hung up all the time so I'm stoked for this thing.

This is my real ride:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...IC07/climb.jpg

Although this looks like a creek it's not. It's run off from snow melt and rain. It'a drainage route for the clearcut at the end of the trail and is dry in the summer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...h_meobover.jpg

Do you have anymore picturesd of you 1:1? it looks seriously cool and also please post anymore videos you have!

sounds like a fun project, if you want it to look like your 1:1, there are some people in the vendors section that make custom tubers, that might be the way you to go, and for the body, this one might work for you http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44565
good luck"thumbsup"

Hey thanks, I'll start searching for more options....I know someone on this site has built a scale first gen and it's popped up on probably every toyota 4x4 forum around. I'm gonna search for him and start askin questions lol.

Thanks for the warm welcome guys.....now could a mod put this back in the ax-10 section please.

Well that's gay.....japan needs to get on it and send some toy bodies over here...subscribed to this thread.

Guess I'll be going with the rockwerks extra cab "thumbsup"

have you tried ebay?

haha for $200, no thanks. This is a budget build.

Does anyone know if anyone else sells these? Looks like they are still waiting to be made? Edit..looks like everything on that site is "waiting for approval" may just have to email them. And will these work with the ax-10 axles? Are the ax-10 hex sizes the same as the clod and txt?

I want to run these tires bad...sweeet! From what I've read it sounds like the axles and gears are beef so I'm gonna run these if I can cause mine on my nylint are super soft all cut up...and they look wicked.

http://www.tracgear.com/product/nyli...aptor/g1/3.jpg

Thanks, Joe

And ordered "thumbsup"

http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.c...995servo02.jpg


Can anyone tell me if the hex size on axial difs are the same as the TLT and clod buster.

Put it together...luckily I didn't have any problems. Everything went together great except for making the rear lockouts....my fingers aren't strong enough to thread them so I used the plastic lockouts.....but it gives the rear wheels a tiny bit of toe out looking from the rear....toe in from the front.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/axial009.jpg

Put some washers in there just incase and after reading this stuff about the cup cracking I put them in the deep freeze to shrink them before I pressed them in just in case lol. Works for 1:1 why not on a smaller scale?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/axial010.jpg

And flexed. NOTE: O rings for shocks go inside the caps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/axial011.jpg

I got a rooster crawler esc and 5000nimh 7.2 battery...whatever that means lol but it was pricey.

I got a Tq3 off ebay that I'm waiting to recieve as well as a Tower Pro MG995 that should be here soon. I'm running an integy 55 turn lathe motor. So that's my setup from everything I've been reading. Can't wait to get the servo and remote so I can run this thing "thumbsup"

Nylint tires will not be going on cause this thing is tiny, a lot smaller than I thought and they would look lame and eat up my wheelbase.

The only thing that I don't like without driving it is that there is no uptravel. I'd like to find a shorter coil, maybe 1/2 or 3/4 inch shorter but with a similar spring rate. It sits with the battery and everything with shocks maxed out...= 0 downtravel :-( Maybe a new post for figuring that out unless someone has a recomendation on a coil that will fit with the shock body.

Thanks rccrawler for all the good info for us noobs to read up on :lol:.

Body will be a toyota body from rockwerks and am just gonna scab some paint on the betty....I just want to wheel this thing :lol:

one side of the rear lockout shaft is backwards threaded, i fought with it for an hour and then smacked my forehead when i realized it.. lol

bet thats the problem.."thumbsup"

Bwahahh never mind the springs are perfect...if you look closely I have the ruber bumpstops bellow the coil bucket.....I was wondering what the purpose of those were when building them haha..they're bump stops....sits way better now and feels nice and cushy :roll:

Hahaha two head slappers for me. Thanks I'm sure that was it. :roll: I thought I just hadn't developed the man fingers for it yet...I have blisters on both thumbs and index fingers from building it. 8)

links
 

What is the diameter of the green links (the tubes)? What about the thicker section (of the tube) in some of them? thanks!

Mä en tiedä....ehkä 5mm? Ja isompi on 7mm about. Did that make sense...been a while en ole puhunut pitkään aikaan enkä kirjoittanut lol ;-).

Took it out for it's virgin run today. The rooster crawler glitches...I'll have to search and read more on what people are doing as for as that goes, you can see it in the videos occasionally. And the first mod will be aluminum body shocks cause the caps would pull out when bound a bit or in a hard roll. Over all, 1.5 hours of good hard fun :lol: This is all with the battery mounted in stock location but biased forward. Tires hook up on this rock..stock foams.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../rccrawler.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS78HDmyTBw

Took me forever to get this line then I got it...but not on camera, then took a bunch more tries to get it and finally hit it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNbNwXaSqnU

And this one took a bunch of tries and more off camber than it looks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAxghp9Vp6s

This is a lot steeper than it looks...seems it can take a good beating "thumbsup". If you tilt your screen so the tree in the top right corner is pointing straight up you'll get a better idea of how steep it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiHD09Uc3AI


Just ordered the traxxas big bores from RCP "thumbsup"

Tonight I mounted the battery on the rear axle and put my reciever on my front axle as far away as possible from the esc to see if the glitching would stop but didn't help. Still get the occasional jerk.

Also tried to figure out how to get weight on the front axle and came accross pencil lead for fishing weight. I cut it up and made weight packs for the front axle. Can't wait to test it out tomorrow. I was also able to get the body down lower without the battery in the stock location and did a bunch of trimming....looks way better now, I hate the high up look. I'm all about as low as possible with the biggest tires possible.

No more super easy flops.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/axial003.jpg

It's hard to tell but the weight is biased to the front. I don't see too many people putting weight in the rear....but in 1:1 if you don't have weight in the rear you unload on decents so hopefully it'll be alot more capable than before :lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er/balance.jpg:lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...arbatmount.jpg

This is what I used for the front weight packs.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...er/weights.jpg

Mounted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rontweight.jpg

More pics and video tomorrow 8)

So my shock caps kept pulling out when bound up and no they werent over filled or build wrong. I ordered the traxxas big bores's from rcpcrawlers.com http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.p...&cat=14&page=1

I put in the stock scorpion shafts for extra length and left the traxxas springs in left the stock bump stops and put the traxxas coil buckets on so the springs sit nice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks013.jpg

Sits nice and low now, links are horizontal and now there is some down travel out of the shocks unlike the stockers "thumbsup"

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks007.jpg

For other noobs the fuel tubing looks like this and is fuel tubing for rc cars. You stip a bit off and run it through the traxxas shock caps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks006.jpg

This it set up:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks005.jpg

I also mounted the body lower and cut it up. I found that when I'd roll or lean into stuff the body would flop all over the place...ended up tearing my body post holes the way it was first mounted. So I have it velcro'd down to the battery tray and this helps the body be way more stable and helps support the boddy if you flop so you can drive out of it. A lot more realistic wheeling IMO.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks014.jpg

The finished product :-P, time to go test :) I love it like this, hides all the junk on the axles pretty well and doesn't look like a gay monster truck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks011.jpg

Nice job. looks great. as for the rooster, try and keep all the power wires (motor wires and battery wires) separate from the receiver wires and antenna wire.

I took one of the mounts from the top battery tray (I don't use it) and mounted it in place of the spacers on the front upper links and put the spacers in place of it on the top stand off bar. I mounted the rear servo tray on that and mounted the rooster on it. Then I mounted my receiver on the battery tray mount on the rear.

I run all my power wires along one side of the chassis and all reciever wires and the antenna along the other side. I have my battery mounted on top of the servo. Works great for me. I have some big bores and was thinking of mounting them up, but I didn't know how it would look or work. Thanks for showing me.

Very nice first build. You already implemented most of the tricks and little tweaks people are using with this kit. I kept my stock setup for about a month but now Im assembling a tuber setup with Axe this week. I love your 1:1. What an awesome rig! Im hoping to get an old Yota and make it a trail rig next summer. Budget didnt allow it this year....

Thanks for the compliments guys. I got a pic of my 1:1 rig in CRAWL magazine in the september/october issue in the "Island Cup" writeup "thumbsup". It was awesome.

Here's a video of tonight just took a quickie and I flop near the end and you can see how low the COG is. Also the tires walk up that steep stone in the wet, it had just finished raining. It has trouble when the tires have dirt on them and the rock is wet....which is the problem in the vid. A little skinny pedal and it made it though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ULbGKgqJC0

Love the mods. Will take more pics and video tomorrow. It's our thanksgiving up here 8)

Well the test run was dissapointing. I couldn't do the same lines I used to be able to stock. Lines like this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNbNwXaSqnU

Even getting onto the first rock was hard and climbing up the second step was hopeless. So I cleaned up the stock shocks, put the shafts back in made sure the orings were inside the caps and superglued them on.


One other mod that has made a huge difference is drilling a small hole into the rim to let air escape. The tires fold much better and with the stock foams there is still plenty of sidewall support.

So after some chat on the board (see this link http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/87670-traxxas-big-bore-problem-breakover-no-good.html) I thought I'd see if I could keep the truck low and have lots of down travel...the theory being that my axle would drop and pull me over the obstacle. I put my stock shock bodies back on with the big bore springs to keep it lower. This was the result, a bit better than straight up big bore shocks but still couldn't to this line no matter how hard I tried. If you're into a rediculous amount of uncontrolable flex/droop this is your set up. I find it super irritating and completely unrealistic. I had to add a bunch of spring spacers too to make it driveable. Withought them the body roll was a joke. You can see how bad it is in the first few seconds of the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EN8WuEkmcEY

For comparison this is the same obstacle with a completely stock setup with the battery mounted in the stock location and no added weight to the axles:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNbNwXaSqnU

This is how it looked at ride hight, stock shock bodies, big bore springs (without two thick spring spacers):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ks019Small.jpg

And full flex:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ks020Small.jpg

On the rocks:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ks024Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ks023Small.jpg

So the verdict, axial did a pretty good job out of the box. I'm putting back the stock springs and shocks. The next mods will be wheelspacers to make up for the height and high clearance links. And it's too late since my caps are glued on but a thinner shock oil would work a lot better I think.

Joe

wow. that did suck. Well I have to thank you for doing this test of the big bores. I have a set that I was ready to put in my ax10 but I won't be doing that now. Im just gonna limit my stock ones. Lower the truck a bit. thanks again man.

Having a huge battery pack on the rear axle is hurting you...thats weight that gravity gets free reign on to pull down while you are trying to go up...

I say re-configure the pack or strap it to the front axle and get rid of the lead weights. Worth a shot.

looks awesome and great mods...

i heard you wanted to make a replica of your 1:1 using hilux body? if i were you i would look at the 2.2 wheel and tire selection because the Nylint tires that you pointed out would be way to big and 1,18 nylint tires arent as good as 2.2 tires. IMEX makes awesome realistic tires..... a yota tuber would be awesome.

No prob I think a lot of people just get straight to changing things without running it stock and never know how capable it is out of the box.

The reason there is weight on the back is so that I don't go a$$ over end when going downhill. I can go down the same steepness as up. Also the weight on the rear axle pulls the rear tires down and closer to the face of the rock because of the leverage off the front tires...same as 1:1, no werock buggies are heavily biased to the front with no weight on the rear. With stock springs and my weight 40/60 to the front I can walk that line in the vid easy. I don't have to autin powers my way into the perfect line like I had to in the vid with a completely stock set up.

If I took the weight off the back I might be able to drag my self up....but that takes away some of my low COG although I do gain some by lowering it so they cancle eachother out....but then I'm not as stable going down hill so I don't gain anything from taking the weight off the back. Everything I have on this rc and don't have will be for a reason that is tested...just like scrapping the big bores.



Thanks a bunch. Yah if you read through the thread somewhere I realized that the tires were way too big. They also really suck compared to the rock lizards as far as traction goes. That was before I had the kit. I didn't realize it was so small.

I bought the rockworks toyota body but I don't like it. It's super floppy compared to the betty body so I'll be sticking with the betty untill someone comes out with a good toyota body. I think the axials kinds look a tiny bit like my IROKs so those will be staying.

Joe

Yes I know the IROKS are on backwards, in the pic they were thrown on to check for clearance on everything.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...b/tires003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../shocks003.jpg

Did some night crawlin tonight. Stock shocks are back in and went to go see if I could do that line...no problem :twisted:but I need rock lights :|. The video of it didn't turn out at all.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin009.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...crawlin013.jpg

Bent my stock links to match the drive shaft clearance...this should make it a ton more capable on the terrain I have.

Before:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ks018Small.jpg

After:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...celinks002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...celinks001.jpg

and should be the same belly height as stock.. 3.5 inches?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...celinks003.jpg

And gonna order up some wheel spacers this week "thumbsup"

Some of you guys booty fab your brand new rigs so bad?

Why? Zip ties? Zip ties are to hold wires in place, and tie things out of the way.

The battery on the rear axle... I tried it. It works ok, but not in competitions. It makes your rear tires get stuck in holes, and maked the truck wheelie climbing extreme angles. Its NOT GOOD for the super technical stuff escpecially in Competitions. It makes the rear ends way too heavy!

YOu want two 3 cell saddle packs on the front axle. 6 cells, divided in 3 and 3
that mount up front on each side of the servo. This is the desireable set up.
Holmes Hobbies has these ready to plug in. I would have bought these in the first place if I knew about them... but I spent $50 on two humongous 3000 sub C huge batteries. The front axle saddle is the key.

If you really have your heart set on putting the battery back on the rear axle...
THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT is to use the big battery tray from on top... take it off the top and put it across the rear axle. YOU need to drill 3 holes, and countersink the screw heads.
remove the rear small servo tray... use the 3 holes in the rear sevo tray
as a template to drill 3 new holes in the big battery tray. This is IMPORTANT so the 3 holes line up perfectly with the axle mount holes. Counter sink the heads screws in the big battery tray so they don't stick up. Use a bigger bit, lightly just enough to countersink the heads.

Mount the battery across the rear axle, with the big battery tray CENTERED, screwed down,
mounted with the 3 stock holes on the axle housing, with the 3 new holes drilled. Easy stuff.

Use a 3M strip of VELCRO TAPE that comes in a roll. Cut a strip on the battery tray, and a strip on the battery.
Then you don't stupid zip ties everywhere, and it looks nice. And the battery won't move at all.

Be careful not to LIMIT DOWNWARD DROOP with the battery wires.

It works, just not ideal. You want the weight on the front axle.
For play, it would be fine in the back.

I wasn't aware that the individual cells of batteries on the front axle looked that much better than one pack on the rear axle :roll:. As for it not being centered...if it were centered the leads from the battery would rub the tires so it needs to be offset a bit.

Everything that is on it is there for a reason. It's built for my crawling areas and everything on it makes it work better. If it worked better with just the battery on the front axle then that's how it would be set up...but it doesn't. I fall ass over end on steep decents with it set up like that.

And hopefully nobody pisses in your cornflakes again tomorrow morning.

I see you edited it to sound a bit more friendly...so take my rebuttal with a grain of salt ;)

whats wrong with zip ties??? it's the 1/10 equivalent to duct tape

Gonna be getting some rockstompers so I decided to stretch my wheelbase out to 15" so the new meats fit better and am playing with weight distribution. 8cell saddle pack will be going on the front axle...I'm hoping that the extra wheelbase will keep downhills manageable which was the point of the battery on the rear axle originally.

Started by drilling new holes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch001.jpg

Actually decided to use the stock front setup and just stretch the rear and extra 3".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch009.jpg

Wont look as long when the bigger tires go on. Still need to do the upper links but am waiting on rcp's wishbone eliminator mount plate..which will also be going on the front.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch008.jpg


Waiting for Christmas to come so I can finish it :lol:.

Well I couldnt wait so finished my uppers using the stock wishbone set up...my links should be fine to use with the 4link conversion since it's meant for the stock set up. I also tried to get a bit my triangulation on my lowers to fight axle steer. What would be ideal is to be able to get the lowers fully triangulated but it's hard to get the space...eventually that will be the next step.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch014.jpg

My links hit but when my 4link plate comes in I'll be able to bring my upper links more inboard and they shouldn't have any contact.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch012.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch015.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch016.jpg

And then made my template for my shock mounts. These will be 1/8 aluminum plate.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...stretch013.jpg

Just need to do some reading to find a driveshaft that will work...or get another scorpion on and make two into one that's long enough.