08-27-2007, 08:29 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sioux Falls
Posts: 22
| AX10 Driveshaft Failure
Someone on here mentioned they had a drive shaft fail and they replaced it with a Traxxas shaft. I know it could not have been a Stampede/Rultler shaft because they are to short. Anyone know which Traxxas shaft will get me going again?? When I put the shafts together, three of the four ends "Snapped" in place and the fourth kind of "Mushed" in place and that is the one that comes apart under any kind of load. Thanks, ElectronJunk |
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08-27-2007, 08:47 AM | #2 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Colorado
Posts: 70
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Try the e-savage ones
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08-27-2007, 02:06 PM | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sioux Falls
Posts: 22
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Found a temporary fix at the LHS. I used Traxxas Jato half shafts #5550 Not a perfect fit, but it will work until the correct spares are in. Can a guy even pre order these things anywhere? ElectronJunk |
08-27-2007, 05:04 PM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dogpatch
Posts: 811
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I had one of the holes crack for the universal pins.I pulled an outer shaft off of my Nitro Stampede and it did'nt fit.Meaning the Axial inner shaft would not go in to the Stampede outer shaft.I have some Stampede shafts on order.They are the same diameter & length you just cant mix & match between the Axial shafts & Traxxas shafts! |
08-27-2007, 11:13 PM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: The Haunted Forest
Posts: 3,586
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That's what we found, however the metal yokes from traxxas will work with the axial sliders, and the traxxas yokes with the axial sliders.
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08-28-2007, 09:30 AM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sioux Falls
Posts: 22
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I put the Traxxas Jato sliders on the Axial yokes. The Jato smaller diameter "inside" slider is not as long as the stock Axial slider however during a pretty harsh rock test last night the Traxxas shafts held up fine. ElectronJunk |
08-29-2007, 06:20 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Isanti, MN
Posts: 289
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you could just get a complete new set of driveshafts. i would recommend t-maxx shafts. if you get them i recommend drilling a hole in the pinion shaft on the axles, and the shaft on the tranny. you may need to grind the end of the t-maxx yokes down and round the inside out. and also to prevent weakening the plastic, soak the yokes and the ends of the driveshafts in hot water to soften them up before putting them together and that will help prevent popping drive shafts. i see no reason not to get new shafts. i use t-maxx shafts on my tlt and have never twisted, snapped, or popped a driveshaft.
Last edited by theTman; 08-29-2007 at 06:22 PM. |
08-29-2007, 06:23 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: in rc crawler land
Posts: 141
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i think these would work http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP55&P=M |
08-30-2007, 06:29 AM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dogpatch
Posts: 811
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I bought the six-pack of shafts for the Stampede. |
08-30-2007, 12:24 PM | #10 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Isanti, MN
Posts: 289
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08-30-2007, 09:00 PM | #11 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hopewell
Posts: 663
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I lost the male side of my front shaft today, but not the yoke. Bound it up pretty hard and somehow it popped out, and fell deep into the rock abyss. Anyway, I found another shaft sitting around which I believe came from a rustler, it is more narrow than the 'Traxxas Half Shafts Long T-Maxx' listed above which I use on my WK. I tried those from the WK first, no dice, wouldn't fit. However, the skinnier one I found fits perfect but it is 1/4" shorter than the stock when comparing to the rear. The stock female shaft is 2 3/4", the stampede ones are 2 1/2". That 1/4" will cause problems on certain angles. I believe that these are the ones I used for now, but they are not the same length as the stock axial. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJH85&P=7 . Once someone confirms the correct shafts to get to replace, I'll be ordering them too. Maybe I just have to wait for Axial's replacement parts. |
08-31-2007, 03:23 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
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Interesting. I've had good luck with the T-Maxx sliders on my WK, I'm probly going to hook a set of those up for the AX-10. I was out today and bound up the front end, and it popped the shaft off at the yolk - it was easy enough to put back, but I strongly suspect that the part in question will continue to get easier and easier to pop off.
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08-31-2007, 04:25 PM | #13 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Dogpatch
Posts: 811
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These are the shafts i ordered.I received them today.The inner shaft is a little shorter(1/4").I just replaced the front only on my AX10-took it for a short run and it did not disconnect from the outer shaft.Time will tell-i still have 5 more sets! | |
09-03-2007, 09:20 PM | #14 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hopewell
Posts: 663
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Anyone know of a beefier shaft that will fit the stock Axial yokes AND is the right length? Thanks. | |
09-04-2007, 02:00 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: NOR*CAL
Posts: 476
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you guys are hard on your rigs.. i've been wheeling everyday on fairly demanding terrain and only broke one rear knuckle..(fixable i might add) not once have my drivelines even been a consideration.. what are you guys doin..are course is pretty savage and i cant break this thing.. ive twisted up and binded to the point where the motor wanted to stall and its still feels way solid.. i checked every stress point closley and see no signs of bad at all, just obvious stuff like the hollow balls on the uppers getting loose.. how bout some pix of your wheelin spots, i'm curious.. |
09-04-2007, 07:04 AM | #16 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
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Pics: http://cotharyus.net/e107_plugins/au...ion-2007-09-02 | |
09-04-2007, 07:10 AM | #17 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Detroit
Posts: 3,583
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Have you tried using a zip tie or metal band (gonna find the right ones tonight at the plumbing store) to help support the yoke area of the shafts? If you put something tight there that will limit the flex which in turn will help with the yoke from expanding enough to pop off. Have you lowered the ride height? This will change the angle of the driveshaft. A straight line will help in lowering the chance of popping the yokes. I'm with crawls2thewalls, lots of motor stalls but thats just when I know it might be time to use reverse and not break things. | |
09-04-2007, 12:25 PM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hopewell
Posts: 663
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I've not broken anything either. Just lost halfshafts. It seems to be a problem mostly on an extreme downhill bind. When the front locks up and can't spin the wheels, the shaft can't take it and pops off the yoke. I'm running a 65T motor and have not stalled it. After the initial shaft poppage, it only became easier and easier for it to come off the yoke. I am going to have to try the metal band to help with keeping the shafts tight on the yokes. What size motors are you guys stalling out? |
09-04-2007, 12:59 PM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mid TN
Posts: 411
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Read again - nothing actually broke - the sliders are just popping off. That said, with a 3S lipo and a brushless outrunner, anyone would be able to do that if they bound things up. I personally feel like you *should* have enough power to break things, but enough sense not to use it if it's going to break something (which doesn't apply to me since I still manage to break a lot) - point being, you *have* to be in a jam to be stuck - you never have to say "if it only had a little more power". My point is this. I've never had the T-maxx sliders pop off of my WK. Why should these pop off? |
09-04-2007, 01:09 PM | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Hopewell
Posts: 663
| Here are a few. The one where it's doing a nose dive, that is where the stock shaft popped out, and fell into the rocks. Don't have any other pics of the exact location and position of the Jeep when they came out. Besides, the replacments are shorter, so I expected them to come out. The stocks shafts really aren't bad. Haven't lost the rear yet. I'm sure that the stock shafts will do fine back up front, once I can get a hold of some. Just have to watch the extreme incline binds.
Last edited by '04 Rubicon; 10-11-2007 at 01:45 PM. |
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