List your AX10 suggestions and Improvements HERE
 

I think we need to start a thread to list all of the improvements that we would like to see in the AX10. I have spoken to Mike at Axial, and he was very interested in getting feedback on what could be done to help the kit.

My suggestions:

Beef up the beadlock hex (done)
Increase the size of the beadlock screws (not possible because of the mold)
Make a slipper clutch (already in the works)
Include the sticky compound rock lizards in the kit (forgot to ask)


What else would you like to see to improve or change the kit? From what I have seen locally there isn't a huge amount that needs changing, they really got it right and did research. What would you like to see?

They upgraded the wheel hex on the 'locks? When was this done?

Even though I do not have an AX10, I do have a set of their beadlocks, and I agree, they should try and get those screws a bit larger. Maybe even course thread so they won't strip so easily?

The upgrade on the locks was just done from my understanding. The next batch of kits will have beefier hexs. As far as changing the screws, the mold can't be changed in that fashion. They would basically have to make a whole new beadlock and design.

As far as I could tell, the holes in the wheel ring were not tapped out for the screws. They were only tapped after the first time you screwed in the screws. I'm just saying they could try a course threaded screw the same size that would thread to the same hole...would just not strip out as easily.

Or make the wheels from acetal so the threads hold truer. "thumbsup"

I would like to see a good way to eliminate the play in the upper links at the axle. I have also heard of them popping out.

The springs that come with the kit are way too stiff. The sticky tires should definitely be in the kit. It would also be nice to have the axle mounted battery tray in the kit but the hop up option is pretty good.

Hop ups, I know RCP is making all of these but I say the more the better.
Alloy knuckles
Alloy c's
Rear axle lockout

Overall though I am very impressed with the kit.

Alloy Knuckles for sure. Myself and someone else have already snapped those.


But I'm new to the whole Crawler Scene, as well as the AX-10, so I can really say much.

Any Idea when the aluminum Shock Bodies are coming out? (I'm thinking about trying other shocks out anyways)

Alloy knuckles are the most necessary thing I think. I've already broken two of the things and I wasn't even trying. I've straight tried to break my WK and haven't been able to.

Could you list the electronics you use and if you added weight? This can change the weight of the vehicle a lot. A small outrunner and lipo will make the springs too heavy, while a sub-C pack and brushed motor would make them too light IMO.

They are making softer springs, that i know.

The rear upper link ball pulling out is a problem. Granted it's fixed with a washer, but the slop gets pretty bad quickly.

4 more set screws for the driveshafts would be good. I kept losing the rear driveshaft until I put another set screw in the not flat side.

Well, now that I've looked closer, I see my upper link mount is cracked. So fix that too.

Otherwise, I'm having a good time with it.

A dig on the trans like R2.

Love my AX 10

Metal drive shafts
CN'd aluminum trans housing

see my suggestions here:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showp...78&postcount=1

BTW, I'm running a 55t with a rooster crawler, tons of torque and i really only see the flex when I push on plate with my hand but the other issues are a bit more worry-some (sp?)

How about some aluminum upper link mounts? The stock plastic ones feel pretty weak, Im sure Ill kill a lot of them.

Aluminum knuckles too, again the stock plastic version looks too weak.

Shocks
 

How about an aluminum shock cap. The plastic ones were the first thing to go wrong with mine, they keep popping off.

One would think they are coming out with that when they produce the Alum. Shock Bodies.

I'd think so too...but it's not listed in the book. Hopefully they come out w/ an entire shock kit for it...and maybe if we're lucky, they'll come out with an optional shorter aluminum shock kit as well, for those of us who don't need 16 miles of articulation and ground clearance.

That's interesting - wonder if those who buy the original non-beefed kit, will get a free replacement hexes?

That would be kick arse!! I almost waited on the kit for that very reason.. (the bugs in the initial release) but I could not help it. It will be interesting to see how it all holds up.. I'm not at all dis-pleased with the kit as is though"thumbsup"

maybe set screw that goes all the way through like traxxas does..
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...ro/AX30487.jpg
I suppose this could be done at home w/proper tools though

Some form of revised clearance on the tranny would be nice for people using outrunners. With the stock gearing and a 3014, I had to dremel down the plastic around the top screw next to the motor a few mm to get the mesh right without it rubbing.

It would also be real nice if the aluminum hexes included with the kit were flat on the outer face so that they'd work out of the box with, for instance Erickson beadlocks.

Apparently, the battery straps need to be a little longer. I haven't had any problem with them, but I've heard a couple of people say they couldn't strap down a 7.2 volt pack with them.

I'd like to see the front and back of the axle housings flat, rather than having rounded protrusions on them. This would allow people to stick weights to the axles if needed.

It would be really good if the servo horns included with the kit were a little beefier. It took about 10 minutes for me to strip the horn our around the servo on mine.

It might just be my setup right now but I still think they could be lighter. In any case I was originally running no wheel weight, a 50t integy motor and the sub c 6 cell pack up top and they were still too heavy.

I am now running a 2/3 sub a 6 cell pack in the front upper links and it really hasn't made a difference.

My guess would be that they included the stiffer springs so that when you have all of that weight up front the rig wasn't so floppy and stiffer springs limit torque twist without someone having to set up the rig right.