$500 for upgrades on my first crawler

[coke]

A couple months ago I got a deadbolt. It's been a lot of fun, but I can't keep up with some of the modified crawlers my friends own. I'm willing to spend around $500 to improve the deadbolt. I'd like to do this once, and do it right, so I'd appreciate any help I can get. I've learned from my other RCs that it's best to just go ahead and get quality parts up front rather than starting cheap and working your way to the good stuff. If someone took the time to give me a parts list, it would be greatly appreciated.


Here's some basic info:
-I need an all around build that will work on rocks, leaves, mud, and shallow water. Some places we drive are solid rock, and others are trails though the woods.
-One of our trails has some tough climbs and decents next to a shallow creek, so falling in the creek happens from time to time.
- I have a several 5000mah 2S lipo batteries. I could buy different if recommended though.
- I spend a lot of time working on my racing RCs and want crawling to be more enjoyable and require less work. Durability and lack of required maintenance is a high priority.

Current deadbolt configuration:
-I've switched the electronics around so the battery is in the front
-Flipped the lower shock mounts to lower the ride height.
-I've modified the tires with the dremel
-Stock pinion was replaced with a 15T. This speed seems about right to me.

The biggest issues I see with the deadbolt as I have it now:
-Servo isn't strong enough
-It's too light, and the weight needs to be further forward
-Center of gravity is too high
-The tires are severly lacking behind my friend's Rovers.
-Suspension seems a little stiff
-The plastic components used for steering seem to flex too much.
-Tires rub on the plastic, even though I've trimmed it some.
-Turning radius is too large

Thanks in advance for the help.

Here's a pic of what I did to the stock tires. It made a huge difference.

[meatmonkey]

Nice siping. Looks comp cut.

The stock dogbone axles limit your maximum steering angle. The Axial universals are durable enough for most all but the most insanely abusive driving. I've worn out a set in a year, but never broken one. They will allow for almost 15* more steering.

Your best off spending big money on a steering servo that will last. I'm running a Hitec 7980 in my Wraith (same axles) and while it wasn't exactly bolt in, it was the best thing I ever did to the truck after breaking many cheaper servos. If you must have a bolt-in servo then the Hitec 7950 is as good as it gets in a standard 1/10 servo (the 7980 is slightly oversized a few mm in every direction).

You'll need a good clamping aluminum servo horn, I prefer Robitronics, and metal steering links to go with your new hercules strength servo.

I'm running R2J stainless links and tie rod in my Wraith and for what they cost I couldn't justify making my own. They use the larger 4mm rod ends that tolerate much more abuse than the stock rod ends/links.

The stock driveshafts will twist slightly after some abuse and not slip easily, which quickly kills the transmission output shaft and axle pinion bearings from all the extra push/pull stress. The only shafts worth upgrading to are MIP's.

But once you take the plastic shafts out, which absorb most of the shock-loading by twisting torsionally, you quickly kill the plastic trans idler and lower output gear. Robinson racing makes hardened steel idler and lower gear. If your paronoid (like I am) about the three puny 2mm bolts holding the output shafts together, then Robinson makes a one-piece output. It's kinda heavy, but pretty bombproof.

Once you've bomb-proofed upstream, you'll eventually either strip the sintered ring/pinion or break/round out the mini-spool. I suggest you get back to us then as you'll likely be surprised at what the stock gears and mini-spool will tolerate as long as you JB-Weld the mini-spool to the plastic diff housing.

And most importantly, replace all the marginal Axial bearings and use 5x7x.1 and 10x12x.1 shims to set the ring/pinion gears for minimal slop. If you check it before you take it all apart you'll likely find in/out slop in the axle pinion shafts and side-to-side slop between the diff carrier and the bearing seats in the axle housing.


If your not going fast with it then a quality set of aluminum wheels will add extra weight down low and make it impossible to strip a wheel hex. I'm kinda partial to Motoworx. Awesome quality at fair prices. I have four sets of his wheels and they are all bomb-proof and perfectly machine with thought and detail.

Got pics of your plastic rubbage? My Wraith rubbed the front lower links at full steering lock, and the sides of the rear tub when flexed out until I got slightly wider offset wheels.

If your stock shocks hold oil then you can try running softer springs or moving the upper mounts in on the chassis.

[Dezertdirt]

Great list but the only thing I'd add is get a VP or STRC steering linkage but first you'll need a new servo. I highly recommend the hitec 7950 with a bec. You need a bec for any servo you get. Also try shaving the sidewalls on those tires you should get more grip. Goodluck.

[Jesse XR10]

Here is what I've done to my Ridgecrest that has really improved it's crawling capabilities.

-Blue Monkey Ti high clearance links
-Blue Monkey Ti steering rods
-Traxxas Revo rod ends
-Solar D772 servo
-Castle Creations BEC
-Vanquish C-hubs, knuckles
-Axial front universal shafts
-Axial XR10 plastic wheels with bullet weights
-Proline Chisel tires
-Axial 55t motor
-43/13 underdrive gears in rear diff
-Axial soft springs all around

The solar servo works great, and it's less than $18. It puts out 417 oz/in @ 7.4v. If it burns out or breaks, I'll buy another, and another, and another. I can buy 10 D772 servos for the price of most high price servos. The BEC allows you to set the output voltage to the servo.

The high clearance links allow a lower ride height while keeping the links off the rocks. Try your best to keep the COG low with out killing your ground clearance. Weight in the front wheels helps a ton with this. XR10 wheels are an easy solution, or some nice Vanquish wheels if it's in your budget.

Tires make or break a crawler. Axial stock tires are terrible, even when cut.

A motor that puts out more torque than the 27t is a good upgrade, especially if you plan to crawl. I got the 55t for $12. Also, under driving the rear end helps a lot. It allows the front wheels to spin faster than the rear, helping to climb without lifting the front end as much.

[coke]

Thanks everyone! I'll do some research on everything that's been suggested. Didn't expect to get quality responses this quick.

[coke]

I did a quick search and looks like I may need to spend closer to $750 to get what I need lol. This always seems to happen with anything RC related. I started with vanquish because I had trouble finding websites for some of the parts mentioned above. If someone could link cheaper alternatives, it would be greatly appreciated.



Servo - Hitec 7950 (Are there any waterproof alternatives?)

Servo Horn - Axial

Steering Links - Vanquish or something cheaper.

Links - Vanquish or something cheaper

Stage 1 (chub, knuckles, lockout) - Vanquish (is there anything else I need for compatibility with the deadbolt?)

Wheels - Something with adjustable weights

Universals - Axial

Other wheel parts if needed such as rings, weights, or hubs

Tires - Rovers

Body - Proline Bug

Springs - Axial black

Driveshafts - MIP

BEC- Castle

Motor - HH Trailmaster

Pinions

Is there any other hardware I'm missing?


Thanks again for all the help

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by coke

I did a quick search and looks like I may need to spend closer to $750 to get what I need lol. This always seems to happen with anything RC related. I started with vanquish because I had trouble finding websites for some of the parts mentioned above. If someone could link cheaper alternatives, it would be greatly appreciated.



Servo - Hitec 7950 (Are there any waterproof alternatives?)

Servo Horn - Axial

Steering Links - Vanquish or something cheaper.

Links - Vanquish or something cheaper

Stage 1 (chub, knuckles, lockout) - Vanquish (is there anything else I need for compatibility with the deadbolt?)

Wheels - Something with adjustable weights

Universals - Axial

Other wheel parts if needed such as rings, weights, or hubs

Tires - Rovers

Body - Proline Bug

Springs - Axial black

Driveshafts - MIP

BEC- Castle

Motor - HH Trailmaster

Pinions

Is there any other hardware I'm missing?


Thanks again for all the help

That's a good list you have started. I'm a big fan of the previously mentioned solar D772 servo. I've had several servo's that were supposed to be far better but they all died and left me putting a solar servo back in while the "better" servo was warrantied. I have 3 of them, one running 8.4 volts as a stress test for the last year with no issues the other 2 run at 8 volts whenever I have them in a rig.


As for the links and steering bits do a search here for making your own out of brake line and all thread with traxxas revo or jato ends. For the cost of buying a link kit you can pay for some 3s batteries to power that turn HH motor properly and go spank some stank on the trails.

I don't hate rover tires, I have a set that work well but for all around I like pro line tsl's and lately I've been happy with my krawlers too.

If you want to run weight in the tires to help with stability I'd simply grab a spool of 1/4" lead from wal mart and wrap it around your wheels then run a layer or two of tape over it.

[coke]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

That's a good list you have started. I'm a big fan of the previously mentioned solar D772 servo. I've had several servo's that were supposed to be far better but they all died and left me putting a solar servo back in while the "better" servo was warrantied. I have 3 of them, one running 8.4 volts as a stress test for the last year with no issues the other 2 run at 8 volts whenever I have them in a rig.


As for the links and steering bits do a search here for making your own out of brake line and all thread with traxxas revo or jato ends. For the cost of buying a link kit you can pay for some 3s batteries to power that turn HH motor properly and go spank some stank on the trails.

I don't hate rover tires, I have a set that work well but for all around I like pro line tsl's and lately I've been happy with my krawlers too.

If you want to run weight in the tires to help with stability I'd simply grab a spool of 1/4" lead from wal mart and wrap it around your wheels then run a layer or two of tape over it.

Thanks. That servo would save a lot over the hitec.

I'll take a look at the all thread and 3s batteries.

One of the places we drive has very steep hills that get damp and basically coat your tires in a thin layer of slick mud. Would the TSLs do better than the rovers in this terrain?

Thanks again.

[WHITE-TRASH]

I should mention my 3s recommendation comes because as the saying goes "Volt up, gear down" and because your ae2 esc will be fine since I see a CC bec is already in the cards.

I honestly think my 2xs or whatever sticky compound rc4wd iroks did a bit better in the wet rocks but not nearly as good in the mud or moist dirt as the G8 compound tsl's unless really flogging it to keep them cleaned out. Everyone speaks of the pitbullII's very highly as a all around tire but I have yet to get a set to try personally so take that with a grain of salt.

You should also pick up a castle link or field card so you can program your esc and bec. You open up more features with the software than with stick programming.



EDIT:


I should also mention something I don't remember seeing in this thread yet. Get a decent supply of 3mm hardware so when you start replacing C hubs, knuckles etc you can replace the craptastic factory hardware.

[Flash178]

Here is my Ridecrest, It's pretty capable crawler.
It has no trouble keeping up with wraiths.
Here are my list of important things.
Servo,
Tires,
Wheels/weights
Higher turn motor.

Basically all the other stuff is gravy
but to get crawling that is the most important stuff.

The original links and things are pretty strong.
The only parts I see that above that I would
defiantly stay away from is VAnquish front steering link and tie bar.
Nothing but problems, and they wont work with stock wheels
or most other axial wheels.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Flash178

defiantly stay away from is VAnquish front steering link and tie bar.
Nothing but problems, and they wont work with stock wheels
or most other axial wheels.

I have the VP steering parts and they work perfectly with stock wraith, exo and ax10 wheels. Not sure what issue you had unless you mounted the links stacked on top of the steering arm. XR wheels rub the drag link a bit but a simple swap of the hex's to the offset traxxas version solved that issue.

[cboggs]

Axial universals, Hitec 7950 servo, better steering links like the VP, VP lockers, and Axial HD under and over drive gears should get you turning good and add strength. The under/over gears will also help you climb better. That battery is pretty big and heavy so if you want to still use it I would find a way to mount it as low as possible, otherwise go down to a smaller/lighter battery like a 850mAh 3 cell. Throw some lead stick on car wheel weight in the wheels for some extra weight up front. The Rovers should work just about anywhere you go with some CrawlerInnovations DD foams.

[benster]

only other thing I'd add is get purple springs. I got them and you get complete travel from your shocks without them hindering crawling ability. You'll be able to ride faster with less body roll on the off-camber. The rest looks pretty good(gonna have to look at mine cause i think i put the 43/13 gears in the front...lol). good luck with your build and keep us posted.

[Flash178]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

. XR wheels rub the drag link a bit but a simple swap of the hex's to the offset traxxas version solved that issue.

Well that would fix the problem yes. Unfortunately there is nothing on Vanquish site and from there help desk that could tell me that.
DO you have a part number of the off set hexes?
Cause there are a few wraiths' and a deadbolts having the same problem.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Tra3654

[redsawacs]

Skip the driveshaft, trans gears, spur gear, and shock replacement bullcrap. Get a 6mm bolt, about 70mm long from Lowes, cut the threads off and shove it in the male end of your driveshaft - no more issues.

Saves the tranny gears and "upstream" spur gear. All for about 6$ BOOM! That just happened!!!! Shocks, dont buy proline - PLEASE! rework your stock shocks as I do and get some "black code" springs from axial - DONE!

Steering links - Vanquish products in my opinion are the only way to go
NO NEED for aluminum knuckles!! Stock works just fine when you replace the upper and lower screw with 3mm machine screws.
C-Hubs - if you want to replace them - Use Vanquish Products or Axial...no one else comes close to their quality control
Servo - NOT HITEC....there are PLENTY out there that will get the J.O.B. done at a fraction of the price! "White-Trash" named one already
Yes, get a BEC and an Aluminum servo horn - any one will work as long as it fits over the servo output - don't need a clamping horn

If you want lockers, look at the Locked Up RC "FI" spool but the stock lockers serve me just fine....even on my crawler.
Check out Team Brood motors as well. Great motor at a great price. Machine wound motor work just fine....if you buy a good one!
Consider Beadlock wheels for a larger offset and added stability
Tires - sky is the limit - you choose the ones that work for your terrian. Sorry, thats just the nature of the beast with tires.

Plenty more upgrades if you want to toss the cash - heck look at "Norton", he build a complete rig from aftermarket parts. But, What do I know - I'm just trying to keep money in your pocket and you out on the rocks...

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by redsawacs

Skip the driveshaft, trans gears, spur gear, and shock replacement bullcrap. Get a 6mm bolt, about 70mm long from Lowes, cut the threads off and shove it in the male end of your driveshaft - no more issues.

Saves the tranny gears and "upstream" spur gear. All for about 6$ BOOM! That just happened!!!! Shocks, dont buy proline - PLEASE! rework your stock shocks as I do and get some "black code" springs from axial - DONE!

Steering links - Vanquish products in my opinion are the only way to go
NO NEED for aluminum knuckles!! Stock works just fine when you replace the upper and lower screw with 3mm machine screws.
C-Hubs - if you want to replace them - Use Vanquish Products or Axial...no one else comes close to their quality control
Servo - NOT HITEC....there are PLENTY out there that will get the J.O.B. done at a fraction of the price! "White-Trash" named one already
Yes, get a BEC and an Aluminum servo horn - any one will work as long as it fits over the servo output - don't need a clamping horn
Check out Team Brood motors as well. Great motor at a great price. Machine wound motor work just fine....if you buy a good one!
Consider Beadlock wheels for a larger offset and added stability
Tires - sky is the limit - you choose the ones that work for your terrian. Sorry, thats just the nature of the beast with tires.

Good advice but I'll always disagree with the bold statement. Most any alloy C hub will do but Vanquish XR/Wraith knuckles are the best option available. They don't have a worthless built in steering arm and you can mount bolt on steering arms on either side. Couple that with several vendors making different length, ackerman or non ackerman etc you have a very adaptable setup that is strong.

[coke]

Thanks everyone.

I've bought the folllowing so far
7950th servo
Metal servo horn
Steering links
Beadlocks
Rovers
Castle BEC
Front overdrive
Axial Universals
Wheel weights
Axial Purple springs
M3 Screws

[Flash178]

I may switch up from the black 1.04 lb springs to the Purple, I want something a little stiffer.
But less then stock. Let me know how your setup works.

[coke]

Very happy with it. The purple springs seem about right to me. If anything I'd prefer Springs slightly stiffer than the purple. I'm running a 5500mah battery though so it's fairly heavy