The unofficial official axial portal buggy.

[Joshs4x4toyz]

Did you get this figured out bud?

I have a 7px with lots of cars setup in 3 pos. Easiest way to do it....

In the menu where you select your function to operate the dig you have a "reverse" and "step" or "increment" column, change it to 100. so you will have a 3 pos switch 100-0-100. Turn endpoints all the way down or like 25. Make sure the function you chose to use as dig is at "0". get your dig in "freewheel" and bolt is up as close to centered then trim to centered as possible in freewheel (its tight). Then switch to 4wd ( I use it in forward position) slowly increase endpoints until your servo quits moving and back it off a click or two (basically engaged as much as possible without straining). Then switch to reverse or "full dig" and do the same.

Hope that helps your issue, feel free to PM me if you need anything else.

[Joshs4x4toyz]

I seen you were pretty fresh with the controller so maybe i started a little far in lol.

If I was home id just take pics but im not. You will need to locate the "function map" in the manual. You are looking dial or switch select (depending on which function. I use DT5 and DT6 for dig operations. That is where you will select the switch and where you will change the values

Then proceed with rest of instructions above.

[TheLetterJ]

I finally broke down and bought a set of 2.2 Jconcepts Ruptures for my Wraith, so it looks like the 2.2 Hyrax's are on the Capra to stay.

My smaller 1500mah 3s packs showed up today so at least it's a few oz lighter up top to help compensate a little, and I can actually put the hood on now.

While I'm content with the soft springs up front, they're softer than I like on the back. Running the firmer springs in the rear is much firmer than I like, even with the preload collar backed off as far as it will go. I tried some 14x70 springs I had, but they were also uber soft, so if I'm going to order something in between (1.8?) I was wondering if 12x70 springs fit okay without getting hung up on the shock body as they compress? The 14mm springs won't fall off or anything, but they are loose enough that you can tell they don't belong.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Del Monte

Have you had a chance to try another dig servo yet?

Won't be able to pick one up until tomorrow morning, if all goes as I'm hoping (have to leave for work tomorrow at 3:30pm, in order to get to client pick location 15min before pick time), so hoping to have an update before then, though I won't be done with tonight's clients until approx midnight, so tomorrow is "uncertain"). I will update.

Originally Posted by Joshs4x4toyz

Did you get this figured out bud?

I have a 7px with lots of cars setup in 3 pos. Easiest way to do it....

In the menu where you select your function to operate the dig you have a "reverse" and "step" or "increment" column, change it to 100. so you will have a 3 pos switch 100-0-100. Turn endpoints all the way down or like 25. Make sure the function you chose to use as dig is at "0". get your dig in "freewheel" and bolt is up as close to centered then trim to centered as possible in freewheel (its tight). Then switch to 4wd ( I use it in forward position) slowly increase endpoints until your servo quits moving and back it off a click or two (basically engaged as much as possible without straining). Then switch to reverse or "full dig" and do the same.



Hope that helps your issue, feel free to PM me if you need anything else.

Thanks for the info...and, thanks for the offer. Not 'fresh' with the 7PX...but, am 'fresh' with with vehicles operating on more than 2 channels (felt it was time to "branch out"). If I run into any problem, will PM you. Just curious, but did you use one of the PS switches, one of the DT switches, or the DL dial? Based on your description, I'm guessing one of the DT switches, it the DL dial, which would be an easier idea than what I was trying.

My idea was to use PS1, set to "Alt" (2-position switch, for 'on/off' control), which would allow me to switch between '4WD' ("off") & 'locked rear' ("on"). Then, using PS2, set to "Nor", and using 'Condition 1' (ie 'momentary'), when PS2s held (whether PS1 was 'on', or 'off'), it would move the horn to (somewhat) "center", aka 'freewheeling rear'.

I realize what I was planning on configuring is more complicated...but, at the same time, can it's because I never considered the idea, or possibility, of using the DL dial, or one of the DT switches.

[Almighty Malach]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Won't be able to pick one up until tomorrow morning, if all goes as I'm hoping (have to leave for work tomorrow at 3:30pm, in order to get to client pick location 15min before pick time), so hoping to have an update before then, though I won't be done with tonight's clients until approx midnight, so tomorrow is "uncertain"). I will update.



Thanks for the info...and, thanks for the offer. Not 'fresh' with the 7PX...but, am 'fresh' with with vehicles operating on more than 2 channels (felt it was time to "branch out"). If I run into any problem, will PM you. Just curious, but did you use one of the PS switches, one of the DT switches, or the DL dial? Based on your description, I'm guessing one of the DT switches, it the DL dial, which would be an easier idea than what I was trying.

My idea was to use PS1, set to "Alt" (2-position switch, for 'on/off' control), which would allow me to switch between '4WD' ("off") & 'locked rear' ("on"). Then, using PS2, set to "Nor", and using 'Condition 1' (ie 'momentary'), when PS2s held (whether PS1 was 'on', or 'off'), it would move the horn to (somewhat) "center", aka 'freewheeling rear'.

I realize what I was planning on configuring is more complicated...but, at the same time, can it's because I never considered the idea, or possibility, of using the DL dial, or one of the DT switches.

Way too complicated. Just use DT5 or DT6 set to 100% throw and go from there. If you decide you don't need freewheel you can bump it up to 200% and it will jump from end point to end point.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Almighty Malach

Way too complicated. Just use DT5 or DT6 set to 100% throw and go from there. If you decide you don't need freewheel you can bump it up to 200% and it will jump from end point to end point.

Cool beans. Good to know. Will give that a try...once I have the replacement servo. As "smart" as I am when it comes to computers, it's "funny", in a sad way, that I never thought of that.

Signed, "Too soon old, too late smart"

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[bbrigg]

I'm a fairly impatient type so if I was in your shoes I would probably just temporarily hook up the steering servo to whatever channel you use for your dig function just to test it and make sure it was working how I wanted. Put the steering servo back when done and when the new servo arrives just fiddle with the subtrim and endpoints to get it where it works properly.

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[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by bbrigg

I'm a fairly impatient type so if I was in your shoes I would probably just temporarily hook up the steering servo to whatever channel you use for your dig function just to test it and make sure it was working how I wanted. Put the steering servo back when done and when the new servo arrives just fiddle with the subtrim and endpoints to get it where it works properly.

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If I was going to order a replacement micro servo, and would have to wait for it to be delivered, that would be a smart, and very logical, way of going about it. But, as I said, I'll be picking up the servo tomorrow morning, after the LHS opens. I'll first try it as a "steering" servo, to make certain it's operating properly...then, if time allows (as I do have other things I need to get done before leaving for work), I will go shoot setting it up for operating the DIG.

'Household' things come before 'hobby' things...well, except for picking up the servo first thing after the shop opens, but that's primarily because the parking lot is used by multiple businesses, and I need to get there before any of the businesses get too busy (it's had to find parking for a minibus, especially if the parking lot is full.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[KulaHI]

Man I wish I could just drive up to the LHS and buy any needed parts. Amain has been my lifeline for this build but unfortunately it’s a week from order to delivery. Luckily shipping is under $4.


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[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by KulaHI

Man I wish I could just drive up to the LHS and buy any needed parts. Amain has been my lifeline for this build but unfortunately it’s a week from order to delivery. Luckily shipping is under $4.


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When I order online, AMain is my #1 go-to. While over got three shops in the corner I love in, plus a free more within slightly-further driving distance, all but one of them are fairly small, and don't necessarily carry a large assortment of parts. The smallest of them primarily exists to support the indoor clay off-road track. While I know they'll have a micro servo, it might not be the one I want...but, at least I'll have one.

As for AMain, if my LHSs don't have parts, them the AMain website is my next stop. If I'm getting a kit, I always go straight to AMain (primarily because I'm fairly certain none of the local shops will have it and/or because I know the LHSs wouldn't really be making any noticable profit (the real profit...where they make the majority of their money...is in parts, not kits, or RTRs).

Put another way, ALWAYS try to obtain 'parts' from your LHS, as that's what keeps them in business. LHSs & local tracks are "intertwined"...if the shops close, so do the tracks. In case you weren't aware a I'm just getting started in crawlers (Capra is my first)...but, I have several off-road race vehicles.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[bbrigg]

Originally Posted by KulaHI

Man I wish I could just drive up to the LHS and buy any needed parts. Amain has been my lifeline for this build but unfortunately it’s a week from order to delivery. Luckily shipping is under $4.


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Wow. My quickest sources are Asiatees and RCMart at 2 to 3 weeks. Amazon runs about 3 to 4 weeks while normal eBay is a month to six weeks.

US priority takes three weeks to a month at a pretty high cost both in shipping and import fees which local customs enforce even while letting me get larger orders from the Hong Kong sellers without that extra cost even for the same items such as HH motors and servos.

I'd be extremely happy to only wait a week.

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[punkindrublik]

Being that Amain is literally less than an hour's drive away, I can get parts from them in one to two days for $1.99 shipping. That's cheaper than the gas it would take to drive to the closest hobby shop which is about 20 minutes away. Life is rough sometimes...

[KulaHI]

Originally Posted by bbrigg

Wow. My quickest sources are Asiatees and RCMart at 2 to 3 weeks. Amazon runs about 3 to 4 weeks while normal eBay is a month to six weeks.

US priority takes three weeks to a month at a pretty high cost both in shipping and import fees which local customs enforce even while letting me get larger orders from the Hong Kong sellers without that extra cost even for the same items such as HH motors and servos.

I'd be extremely happy to only wait a week.

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Lol thanks for putting things into perspective. Whenever you think you have it bad chances are there’s someone who has our worse than you do. Hope things get better in your neck of the woods brother


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[KulaHI]

Sorry for the DP. I've noticed Tapatalk has a tendency to do that when there's poor reception.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by punkindrublik

Being that Amain is literally less than an hour's drive away, I can get parts from them in one to two days for $1.99 shipping. That's cheaper than the gas it would take to drive to the closest hobby shop which is about 20 minutes away. Life is rough sometimes...

First world problems right?


My local hobbytown asked me what they should be stocking for the local crawlers guys. The bashers and racers just aren't doing it for them and the comp & gayler scene has blown up around here. I support them when I can, I bought my capra from them so that's something.

I buy from amain a good bit but rpp is my go too for sure.

[KulaHI]

I’m getting ready to do my electronics this weekend. Saw somewhere someone had to shim the trans idler gear to keep it from wandering into the trans cover. Some of you have been running your builds for a while now. Is this an issue everyone’s dealing with? I don’t think I’m seeing it but wondering if it will come up later and would rather deal with it now than after I have everything done.


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[Panther6834]

Well, I've got an update on the DIG servo seeing problem I've been mentioning, and it's a "strange" one...VERY strange.

I picked up the new servo, plugged it in (leaving my previous configured settings the same), and even the new servo won't work. Here's where it gets strange - I unplugged the micro servo, and plugged in a standard servo (the same Hitec servo I was originally going to use for steering (which I also used when linking the Rx, as well as initial electronics testing), before I decided to swap it for a ProTek servo). When I turned everything back on...IT WORKED...the Hitec standard servo finding on Ch4, exactly as if operating the DIG. Not only did it work, but it worked exactly as I had wanted (using a DT switch, instead of a PS switch, a 3-position switch IS enabled).

So, I unplugged the standard servo, plugged the micro servo back in...and, once again, nothing. I REALLY can't explain this one. My settings were correct the entire time (tho, a huge "thank you" goes out to Jishs4x4yoys for mentioning the 3-position DT switch option, as opposed to using two PS switches as I was initially doing), but, for some really-strange, and unknown reason, it's almost as if the Tx and/or Rx is "refusing" to operate a micro servo.

EDIT:
a) It appears that it might be the micro servo, after all...but, at the same time, it's probably also a setting issue. I unplugged the steering servo from Ch1, plugged it into Ch4, and it functions like the DIG servo should. Plugged the Traxxas servo into Ch1, and it operated as a steering servo should. Unplugged the Traxxas servo from Ch1, plugged it's back into Ch4, and nothing...thus, a possible/probable setting problem. However, took the DIG servo, and plugged it into Ch1...and, nothing...thus, servo, itself, is possible/probably defective.

b) Despite the problems related to the DIG servo, I decided to take the Capra out for a short test (while my clients are enjoying their party). Granted, I'm in the parking lot of a winery that's in the mountains, don't don't exactly have any rocks, or trails, plus it was getting dark. I pressed the DIG am in, reattached the horn to the servo, unplugged the DIG servo (this locking the DIG in 4WD), and proceeded to drive it across the parking lot. Then, I attempted to drive it up the small hill to the upper parking lot...a hill consisting of loose dirt & pebbles. Well...I had to tack it up the hill (for those who understand sailing terms, you know what I'm talking about)...but, I made it. Finally, I drove it down the same hill, and across the parking lot back to me.

As short, and "boring", as my test run might sound to some reading this, knowing that this was my first-ever crawling experience, I enjoyed it...and a now, I REALLY can't wait to experience more (another darn "bug" bite...lol.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Panther6834]

Have another update on the DIG servo problem. There's a 99.9% probability that it is defective. I realize that the (analog) Traxxas 2065 also wouldn't work, but that's probably because it's analog, or because it's much lower in torque, or because it's not actually a micro servo (it's a sub-micro servo), or any number of other reasons (in other words, I don't know "why", but I do know it also wouldn't work).

On the 'plus' side, I finally found the SX107 I had purchased as a "backup" to the Hitec servo, if the Hitec didn't fit. Anyway, I first plugged it into Ch1, just to make sure it was operational...and, it is. Next, I plugged it into Ch4...and it's operation is 100% spot-on. Thus, I'm almost certain the problem with the Hitec 5070MH has been, from the beginning, that it's 'defective'. Someone from AMain called me a shower while ago, to let me know that the replacement has shipped, and should be received tomorrow.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Sneetches]

Well at least it lives, but good luck with electronic gremlins, they don't discriminate by build or person.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by Sneetches

Well at least it lives, but good luck with electronic gremlins, they don't discriminate by build or person.

Having been custom building computers for 25+ years, that's one thing I am extremely aware of. My mom has even said, "You know so much about computers, but it's funny that you end up with more computer problems than anyone I know." And, yes, at least it 'lives'. I'm gonna wait for the replacement Hitec servo to arrive before removing the defective one, as if prefer to "disassemble" only once (no disassemble Johnny-5).

If the replacement works, fantastic...and, if not, I've got the SX107 (but would be operating it at 7.4V) as a 'backup. Or I could order a different micro servo...if you have any recommendations on a non-Spektrum brand, 7.4V-capable, micro servo, preferably with metal gears, that's already known to fit (and work work) the Capra, I'm very open to suggestions.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place