bilinvic's DMG IFS B1B Bomber Build

[bilinvic]

I'm pretty sure a 4 inch shock will be too long and cause binding in full droop.

[the DMG]

i have mounted a 4" losi shock,
in the "top - inner most" shock mounting hole & theres no binding ! - so far.
just been so busy - haven't had time to take pic's

[84yoda]

Looks badass. Hopefully you will get some video footage for us. And tons of pictures, we all never get tired of looking at your rigs.

[bilinvic]

The majority of the "first time" mock-up is completed....and I'm very happy with how this is going.

One of my top priorities was to have the chassis easily removed from the skid and suspension. With what I have achieved, I only have to unplug the sensor cable and the three bullet connectors to the motor/ESC and the whole chassis with all the electronics comes off. This will make cleaning and maintenance extremely easy compared to a standard Bomber.

The MMP and electronics box are affixed to the sides of the chassis, similar to how DMG supplies the servo mount on the opposite side. Both the motor and servo are on one side and so I mounted the electronics on the other side to help even out the weight distribution.

I still need to add lighting, but that can happen later.

I used an Axial 40mm post, a Team KNK 3x3mm aluminum spacer and Traxxas mini link ends for the "drag link".

[bilinvic]

I tried quite a few different shocks combinations and I think the winner is going to be the Axial Yeti front shocks. The P-L SC Powerstroke fronts are shorter and obviously have less travel. The P-L SC Powerstroke rears are too long and in full droop, the Axial universals are clicking; this is with the shocks orientated in the mounts that would allow the shock to be at it's longest length (furthest out on the A-Arms and top inner mount on the DMG shocker tower).

The Axial Yeti front shocks are longer than the SC fronts, but shorter than the SC rears...perfect! I built the Axial shocks using Traxxas 2362 X-Rings so hopefully they won't be leaky. They are filled with Axial 30 wt fluid and I'm using the yellow springs; 14x54mm 4.33 lbs/in. I will likely order some Axial blue springs to try them out (4.95 lbs/in) too. If I stick with the Axial shocks, I'll order the aluminum caps and adjusting rings.

In these photos you can see I am using stock (modified) Bomber bumper behind the Yeti front bumper; I'm still undecided if I want to run the DMG aluminum hood or go with the stock Bomber panels, which I happen to love.

Setting the castor and toe has been a pain...hopefully I will have it dialed in soon after some initial testing.

[Di_Spencer]

Have you considered a bumper like the DMG did for the first B1B?

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

I used an Axial 40mm post, a Team KNK 3x3mm aluminum spacer and Traxxas mini link ends for the "tie-rod".

You mean drag link? it's looking really good Bil. I got my DMG shock tower in today and the longest I could cram in there was a 3.75 long shock. The geometry is also better than the VP tower with VP upper shock relocation plate. I ended up getting another 3/4 inch uptravel which is more than I thought I could get so I'm really happy. What front driveline are you using?

[bilinvic]

...a "chassis cam view"!

The whole front assembly feels extremely strong, no chassis flex at all...you did your homework on this aspect Mr. DMG.

And a little peak at my award winning 1/12 Mclaren MP4/6 (TamiyaCon 2003 Master Modeler)

[bilinvic]

Originally Posted by Di_Spencer

Have you considered a bumper like the DMG did for the first B1B?

Not yet...I'll see how this one works out first! The front end is heavy enough.

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

You mean drag link? it's looking really good Bil. I got my DMG shock tower in today and the longest I could cram in there was a 3.75 long shock. The geometry is also better than the VP tower with VP upper shock relocation plate. I ended up getting another 3/4 inch uptravel which is more than I thought I could get so I'm really happy. What front driveline are you using?

Thank you, I corrected my terminology! The DMG shock tower is a very nice piece...I polished mine with to a decent shine! I used Team KNK aluminum spacers on the shock bolts so I can utilize all the holes without the shock cap touching and these spacers tilt the shock just enough to add more clearance for the drive axles.

For the front driveshaft, I tried MIP and Junfac and they would work, but without the spur cover. I dislike running without a spur cover so I tried the stock Yeti front driveshaft and it worked beautifully with the cover in place. It should be plenty strong since it's fixed in place and doesn't move with suspension travel (fingers crossed).

[the DMG]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

...a "chassis cam view"!

The whole front assembly feels extremely strong, no chassis flex at all...you did your homework on this aspect Mr. DMG.

thanks bill - kooks killer !!
thats manly why i made the main chassis brace from steel - instead of alum,
plus it should hold up great !

[bilinvic]

I still have dissemble the whole front end so I can grease the front locked diff and Loctite the appropriate hardware.

[bilinvic]

Notice the rear metal tube bumper...thanxs DMG!

As it sits now, I'm using the P-L SC rear Powerstroke shocks and the Axial Yeti rear shocks without springs. The rear suspension feels really good and I will not be using the Vanquish Currie AntiRock sway bar during initial testing so I can see how it performs (baseline). Yeti length Blue Monkey RC trailing arms and Yeti length MIP rear driveshaft.

[bilinvic]

Track width is exactly 13 inches (F & R) and wheelbase is just shy of 15 inches.

[SCREAMER]

You should be able to mount that drag link above the bellcrank. I did and it clears the chassis no problem. Not that it really matters I guess but it'll push and pull more level that way instead of at an angle.

[bilinvic]

Good observation, I will try that. Thanxs again SCREAMER. What front driveshaft did you go with?

[SCREAMER]

I ended up using a regular WB HD driveshaft cut as close to fully compressed as possible for maximum engagement while still allowing me to remove it without having to remove the trans. There was the slightest bit of rubbing on the spur cover but it self clearanced during the first run.

[bilinvic]

Five easy to reach screws/nuts and the whole front end is detached...this is a maintenance dream machine!

[84yoda]

Post #45, 3rd picture, top shock bolts makes it look like it has little eyes! Lol. Impressive work as always. Keep the pictures coming!

[bilinvic]

Demon eyes with the angled chassis bars!!!

[bilinvic]

As per SCREAMER's recommendation, I'm sealing the bottom of the diff housing to the IFS chassis plate, except I used butyl rubber; there's no chance of anything getting past this stuff!