SCREAMER's IFS Bomber "Qwiksilver"

[maslin]

I saw your post in another thread about the onetoomanyrcs LED bars. Did you pick one up? I have one on the way for the Bomber, wondering how it worked.

[calcagno45]

Which did you get?

[maslin]

Originally Posted by calcagno45

Which did you get?

Black beauty version 2, the full size one. Mounting above the roof won't really work for me, I'll have to put it inside the cab or down the front bars a few mm.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by maslin

I saw your post in another thread about the onetoomanyrcs LED bars. Did you pick one up? I have one on the way for the Bomber, wondering how it worked.

I didn't have time to get one in order before heading to Crawlapalooza 10. While I was there I did get to see three or four guys running that new V2 and it only made me want one more. Those light bars are too bright which obviously, is just right You'll be glad you ordered one Mazz, can't wait to get mine.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Such a sick build. Lots of good ingenuity and engineering in this build.

What made you choose the JEC trailing arms over VP?

Do you mind sharing your MMX settings? I'm trying to get mine to run more smoothly on startup and at low speeds.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Thank you! VP TAs are 6061 aluminum so, IMHO, too soft and grabby for rock crawling. There's also too many other good choices out there like BMRC and DLux who make both of theirs out of 7075. Much harder and slicker. I also don't like VP's hollow ball mounting method and would rather use replaceable Revo ends. JEC TAs are beautifully machined stainless and I wanted some more good weight down low for stability and love how he recesses the rod ends into the arms. Very strong design and slide like snot off rocks so it was an easy choice to make.

Let me get a look at my MMX settings then I'll post back up, need to get home to have access to a computer.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Thank you! VP TAs are 6061 aluminum so, IMHO, too soft and grabby for rock crawling. There's also too many other good choices out there like BMRC and DLux who make both of theirs out of 7075. Much harder and slicker. I also don't like VP's hollow ball mounting method and would rather use replaceable Revo ends. JEC TAs are beautifully machined stainless and I wanted some more good weight down low for stability and love how he recesses the rod ends into the arms. Very strong design and slide like snot off rocks so it was an easy choice to make.

Let me get a look at my MMX settings then I'll post back up, need to get home to have access to a computer.

Great points about the trailing arms! Thanks for that info. I didn't realize other companies made them out of harder aluminum. I do like the one-piece design of the VP though so I'll have to weight my options when the time comes to replace my links.

Thank you! I would greatly appreciate the MMX setting.

[bilinvic]

One other con about the VP TAs....the length cannot be altered whereas the other types can use a combination of Revo and Jato link ends.

[SCREAMER]

Excellent point Bil!

[maslin]

VP trailing arms are pretty much the only RC purchase I regret. The end design is miserable and the material is like glue on the rocks. All of my ends have developed a bit of play and the adjustment screws are all frozen.

I'll wear through the front ends at some point and upgrade. Something with Revo ends, the supershaty TAs are sweeeeeet.

[SCREAMER]

The SuperShafty TAs are J.E.C.'s TAs and they are indeed sweeeeeet.

[Deckard]

Maslin, you won't regret the J.E.C.'s. Mine are solid as the day I got them and I have been abusing the hell out of them. The Bomber did great at Crawlapolooza. The TA's slid on the rocks like a hot knife through butter. Breakage on the TAs was the last thing on my mind. I didn't break anything, which was shocking because I was trying my hardest.

[Deckard]

Screamer, how are the Dlux axle shafts holding up? I broke a Vanquish VVD today just doing some easy driving testing out some shock adjustments. It snapped right at the base of the ball on the dog bone. Vanquish recommends not using a locked front diff with the VVDs according to their web site (never noticed that before) so I'm not sure how much warranty support I'll have.

I'm thinking the Dlux axle shafts are going to be the best replacement based on how I drive. I was just testing today so I was running easy. Any update is appreciated.

[SCREAMER]

I didn't know that warning was added to VP's website. That's pretty disappointing. Don't fix the problem just add warnings.

The DLux shafts have withstood literally everything I could put them through and have been issue free even with 4s Holmes brushless power. I've bent rear shafts, broken a wheel hub, broken a driveshaft, stripped a locker, broke another locker completely, and those front driveshafts are just completely unscathed. I don't drive any of my trucks like I drove Qwiksilver and after the complete rebuild I'll try and take better care of her. She's been the tester for many parts in addition to the front shafts and I was really hard on her during that time. I can promise you'll be more than happy with your set of DLux shafts. The best part about ordering from Erik is, if you ever have any issues, he will always take care of you. I can't say enough good things about all DLux products. I've been running one set of his modified AR60 housings for over a year and no problems with bearings at all. Qwiksilver runs modified housings front and rear and have stood up to 4s with zero issues. DLux FTW!

[Deckard]

Thanks for the update. I haven't received a reply from Vanquish yet regarding the VVDs. I may just go ahead and order the Dlux axles. No way am I running open diffs in the front.

I took the rear F9 off my B1B and put the stock AR60 back on with a Dlux truss. So far I'm really happy with the setup. The F9 hung up too much on rocks and always seemed really heavy. I'm trying to lighten the rig and keep as durable as possible. Not sure if the AR60 with beeftubes and Dlux truss is much lighter but it doesn't hang as much. I also put the Dlux Yeti bulkhead in after I blew a bearing in the stock. I've been really impressed with everything Dlux.

[SCREAMER]

That really just blows my mind. Axial sells quality universals and a very nice locker for the front of a yeti with no warnings or stipulations about possible parts failure from running a locked front. VP wants to sell you an "upgraded" part for $65, almost twice the price of Axial universals, and tell you that their "superior" parts can't handle a locker. Are you f@€king kidding me? This warning didn't exist when VP first released their VVDs for the Yeti which means they had enough returns and failures that they had two choices. 1. Fix the issue by reengineering the part to be stronger, like they claim it is anyway or 2. Add a caution telling people they suggest not using a locker. That's shameless and absurd. I honestly don't know what's going on at VP lately. I got two bad SCX10 II Curries from them, a set of Method wheels with the laser etching off center, I've recently seen several other obvious quality control issues posted in the last few months here and on FB. I think I'm just about done supporting them. Too many disappointments in a row and there's just too many other options out there from companies that act like they care. Rant over.

[84yoda]

Seems like there QC has gone down hill. Probably hiring new people and they don't care and just package it up anyways.

I wish those Dlux shafts were available when I was shopping for front shafts.

[Lanky]

Last Night while cleaning up some RC bits to get more organized, I realized I have a bomber cage/ Skid, as well as a Yeti kit. While I don't hate my yeti, the cool factor of a B1B just seems to hard to pass by. Needles to say I had to shoot Jerry a PM about getting one of these kits in hand!

Screamer, I know you were let down by your yeti. My question to you is....... At speed, over rough terrain, would you consider the B1b to handle better then the yeti, in your experiences? Or do you consider it Better overall.

My build will be solely for use in my woods as a trail thrasher.

[SCREAMER]

Better at speed, better at crawling, better in the air, better overall in every way possible. More durable, took less money and tuning to get it to handle well, doesn't get high centered everywhere, I can't say enough good things about the truck and Jerry's design. Love my IFS Bomber. I would highly suggest going with DLux front driveshafts whether you go with a locker in front or not but especially if you go with a locked front. Good luck and post up your build progress. I love to see new DMG B1B builds.

[Lanky]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Better at speed, better at crawling, better in the air, better overall in every way possible. More durable, took less money and tuning to get it to handle well, doesn't get high centered everywhere, I can't say enough good things about the truck and Jerry's design. Love my IFS Bomber. I would highly suggest going with DLux front driveshafts whether you go with a locker in front or not but especially if you go with a locked front. Good luck and post up your build progress. I love to see new DMG B1B builds.

Seems conculsive It's official Im #28! I'm hoping to get it with the New Skid that will allow use of the bomber/ yeti trans!!! if not looking like I'll need to find a trans to hold up to power on a budget.

[SCREAMER]

Congrats! Honestly I would make the switch to a Wraith trans unless you just really love the Yeti trans. The Wraith trans is simpler, smaller, lighter, stronger when built with good internals, and will allow you to run a centered rear if you ever so choose. JMHO