SCREAMER's IFS Bomber "Qwiksilver"

[bilinvic]

Kool...thanxs for the pics. Will you be fitting a anti-sway bar?

[SCREAMER]

My pleasure man. I could post pics of this thing all day. I will be running my DLux sway bar that was on before the conversion. I noticed in Jerry's build that he ran a conventional sway (Same as mine IIRC) so other than adjusting link length it shouldn't be an issue. I'm hoping the "spring rate" of the torsion bar is still within the correct spectrum. If not, Axial still makes an Exo rear sway bar kit that should work fine but I've got my fingers crossed, my super sweet DLux bar works.

[Alexander_0_1]

This bomber shares quite a bit with my BMRC if/ir suspension wraith, only i didn't go with open diffs, it's fully locked.

What bell crank does this kit use?

I agree with bill. Thanks for all the photos.

I like the trans/motor/esc set up you have.

[SCREAMER]

The biggest difference is the steering which is a significant improvement over the blue monkey design. BMRC uses Slash parts for the rack and belcranks and a somewhat convoluted jigsaw puzzle assembly. The problem with that is they weren't integrated very well into the rest of the chassis design and this results in the outside tire steering 12 degrees and the inside tire steering 20 degrees at full lock! I had to stop building my blue monkey setup halfway through the build because the steering was so horrible. I tried every adjustment I could but as soon as you put tires on and go lock to lock you have an awful "Aha" moment. I knew there was nothing I could do and moved on.

Jerry's design integrates the Yeti steering rack with much better execution and gives you the ability to actually control this truck at low and high speeds. It's no XR10 with 70 degrees of steering but it performs so well that you don't mind losing a bit of throw. At least both front tires point in the same direction when you're trying to actually control the truck. Additionally, you have all of this housed on one simple plate. Assembly and disassembly are incredibly simple and straightforward. It's like 5 screws to completely remove the entire front clip off the B1B IFS conversion. I remember how hard it was to put that blue monkey kit together with zero instructions anywhere and 80 pieces of wildly varying hardware. Just installing the servo and horn was an exercise in finger contortion.

The difference is in the details big and small and the DMG kit is a pleasure to build, service, and drive. I couldn't even get past assembly with my BMRC kit and I'm a 20 year Aircraft mechanic.

[Alexander_0_1]

I completely agree with you on the "where the F are the instructions" bit. I had to ask what the cone washers were for, once I got my answer, I managed to put it together in two afternoons. I'm a backyard mechanic, with some experience in heavy equipment graders, dozers, backhoe, etc.

I really can't stand that my wheels don't point in the same exact direction when turn.

[SCREAMER]

The BMRC parts themselves were of excellent quality, it's just the design that needed a lot more work. I hated quitting on that build but it has to perform well first then look good. It's too bad I wasn't building a shelf queen with that one. I never gave up wanting an IFS/IRS truck; thank God for Jerry and the DMG!

[*Old*]

Looking great!!
Thanks for the progress pics and part #s, etc. Now I won't have to do a detailed write up and just build .

But anyway, I may be jumping the gun here, but I'm hearing the Exo rear A arms are longer than the fronts. Do you plan on running the fronts with wider hubs or rear A arms up front as well?

This thing looks awesome!!

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by *Old*

Looking great!!
Thanks for the progress pics and part #s, etc. Now I won't have to do a detailed write up and just build .

But anyway, I may be jumping the gun here, but I'm hearing the Exo rear A arms are longer than the fronts. Do you plan on running the fronts with wider hubs or rear A arms up front as well?

This thing looks awesome!!

I'm sure your build thread on a B2B would be appreciated by many, including myself.

The arms themselves are longer but I think that has to do with the fact that the rear just has hubs and the front has hubs and knuckles so that half inch difference or so may equal out because of the steering in front. Does that make sense?

Edit: What do ya know. It's like the Axial engineers knew what they were doing. Shorter arm on the top, hexes in the exact same spot, equal distance from the inner hinge pin/screw.

BTW, I'm pretty psyched that all the orange is matching up so well between three different companies. VP can't even match its own gray anodizing.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I'm sure your build thread on a B2B would be appreciated by many, including myself.

The arms themselves are longer but I think that has to do with the fact that the rear just has hubs and the front has hubs and knuckles so that half inch difference or so may equal out because of the steering in front. Does that make sense?

Edit: What do ya know. It's like the Axial engineers knew what they were doing. Shorter arm on the top, hexes in the exact same spot, equal distance from the inner hinge pin/screw.

BTW, I'm pretty psyched that all the orange is matching up so well between three different companies. VP can't even match its own gray anodizing.

Awesome bro. Make sense and thanks for posting the pic!
You saved me the trouble - I was about to order 2 pairs of fronts.

Really excited to log back on Monday and read your weekend progress report...so don't let me down

[SCREAMER]

I won't!

She's really starting to take shape now. Wheelbase is coming in at exactly 13 1/2 inches, perfect. Nothing new or changed in the front end from the B1B setup so I'll just do a quick recap.

Vanquish caster blocks, knuckles, VVDs, Ti upper links and steering links, and clamping hexes
RPM Yeti lower arms
GMade 93mm XDs with ProLine Powerstroke rear springs, red uppers and lowers
Stock Yeti Score open front diff, for now, until my DLux bulkheads come in

[dpcardoza]

Got a question and you guys seem to be in the know. Is blue monkey and axial the only lockers that work in the front?


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[the DMG]

Originally Posted by dpcardoza

Got a question and you guys seem to be in the know. Is blue monkey and axial the only lockers that work in the front?


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thats the only two i know of.

[dpcardoza]

Originally Posted by the DMG

thats the only two i know of.

Either one have an advantage over the other?



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[Lanky]

Originally Posted by dpcardoza

Got a question and you guys seem to be in the know. Is blue monkey and axial the only lockers that work in the front?


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Locked up RC's lunchbox style locker works as well... I have not ever held a BMRC locker... I've used the axial and the LURC, both work well. I do prefer the LURC. I had an issue with the ring gear screws in the Axial breaking. I think they backed a bit then snapped. the Luchbox fits in the cup, and you still use the c-clip's. The ring gear screws back into the plastic cup...


SCREAMER, On my B1b I run the Max drive shaft in the front, I did have to clearance it, it would rub the steering rack. I wonder if the B2b will have more space...

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by Lanky

SCREAMER, On my B1b I run the Max drive shaft in the front, I did have to clearance it, it would rub the steering rack. I wonder if the B2b will have more space...

After getting my steering rack and front bulkhead brace reinstalled, I tried to put the TMaxx shaft back in and it was a no go. There was too much interference on the steering rack like you mentioned so it was just quicker and easier to cut a new WBHD shaft and put it in. The Axial WBHD shafts really are plenty strong, there's a couple reasons why I choose to run Maxx shafts when there's room. They are easier to cut, 2 cuts as opposed to 4 with the Axial shafts. They are a simpler design with much fewer pieces to them, the shaft, the yoke, and the ball. They stay significantly quieter with no metal on metal contact. The only drawback is sometimes there's just not enough room.

So I did get the front steering and bulkhead brace assembly back in Qwiksilver and after doing this a couple times for bearing replacements or what not, I wanted to share something I learned. The entire assembly should be installed as one piece with all hardware tightened and red loctite applied to the upper and lower steering post screws. The bottom flush mount chassis plate screws that you see between the bell cranks with the nuts on top, should be the very last to get torqued down. The reason for this is because they come into the steering assembly at an angle and if you tighten them down first, they will pull the plate flat and cause fitment issues with the rest of the assembly. Install them with the aluminum spacers and just spin the top nuts on to hold them in place then install all four bulkhead brace screws at the front and fully tighten them down. Now go back and tighten those final two mount screws and everything should be solid. Check the steering rack for smooth steering throw before attaching the drag links.

Please don't forget to apply loctite to the upper and lower screws that go into the steering posts that the bell cranks ride on. I neglected this simple step and it bit me in the ass twice, once during a race.

[SCREAMER]

Everything was ready for me to drop the cage down onto its new chassis and check alignment and clearances. I could immediately see that my electronics shelf on top of the trans was no longer going to work. With the transmission reversed, the plate and ESC were trying to occupy the same space as the servo. Obviously the servo will not be moved so the shelf had to come off. Not a big deal at all and it's not something that should be a common problem for others because I haven't seen anyone else mount their ESC this way. It will actually end up being a benefit to performance because I will remount the ESC to the drivers side and much lower in the chassis so this will improve CG and weight distribution.

Speaking of CG, this conversion will be an improvement over the stock skid in a couple of ways. First, the plate is flat and flush with the bottom chassis rails so it will have a smoother and higher clearance profile than the stock skid. Secondly, the trans and motor are now mounted flat bringing them down lower in the chassis as opposed to being mounted higher on the stock skid and at an angle that held part of that significant weight up due to the angle in the skid mount.

After removing the ESC and plate off the top of the trans, the cage fell right into place.

[dpcardoza]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Everything was ready for me to drop the cage down onto its new chassis and check alignment and clearances. I could immediately see that my electronics shelf on top of the trans was no longer going to work. With the transmission reversed, the plate and ESC were trying to occupy the same space as the servo. Obviously the servo will not be moved so the shelf had to come off. Not a big deal at all and it's not something that should be a common problem for others because I haven't seen anyone else mount their ESC this way. It will actually end up being a benefit to performance because I will remount the ESC to the drivers side and much lower in the chassis so this will improve CG and weight distribution.



Speaking of CG, this conversion will be an improvement over the stock skid in a couple of ways. First, the plate is flat and flush with the bottom chassis rails so it will have a smoother and higher clearance profile than the stock skid. Secondly, the trans and motor are now mounted flat bringing them down lower in the chassis as opposed to being mounted higher on the stock skid and at an angle that held part of that significant weight up due to the angle in the skid mount.



After removing the ESC and plate off the top of the trans, the cage fell right into place.

Is that electrical tape on the center shaft of the wb?


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[the DMG]

Originally Posted by dpcardoza

Is that electrical tape on the center shaft of the wb?
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shrink wrap !

[dpcardoza]

Originally Posted by the DMG

shrink wrap !

Never saw that before. Pretty genius. I'm gonna steal that idea.


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[SCREAMER]

It keeps dirt and dust out of the splines and keeps the slider centered for equal engagement on both sides. It can still telescope slightly if it needs to because it's flexible.