SCREAMER's IFS Bomber "Qwiksilver"

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

What? VP is not overnighting them to you for their product failure? That's just wrong.

They sure are beefy suckers though and hope the Uni's work out.

I'm not even sure they got my message yet. I sent it last night. I know they'll take care of me, they have in the past more than once, even when the fault was mine. all hope is not vested in the Axial unis, that's only temporary. My BMRC 300M spool has shipped and so have the Traxxas CVDs. I'm really hoping I can get those to work.

Maslin, what CV shaft is that?

[cmbscx10]

Hopefully not off topic. When i had my Yeti i almost bought Dlux's Yeti Knuckles Dlux Fab. Now that's bombproof (Sorry Super Shafty) but not in Orange.

[maslin]

TVR RC, they only list like 3 traxxas applications, but they have a lifetime warranty.

[SCREAMER]

I really wanted to go with DLux's shafts and knuckles but for $200, I had to try building my own setup first. It's more fun that way, at least that's what I keep telling myself.

[the DMG]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

Hopefully not off topic. When i had my Yeti i almost bought Dlux's Yeti Knuckles - Now that's bombproof (Sorry Super Shafty) but not in Orange.

yes they are nice - kind-da,
they have good & bad things about them !

make sure to use the B/M 6mm 300M locker with these.
i destroyed a B/M 5mm locker version all ready !

[bilinvic]

I think I would rather have the axle be the weakest link...easy to replace and not overly expensive. If I do break the Axial Uni, I may try the Incision version first.

[SCREAMER]

Bil, I definitely had that same thought when I went to swap both shafts out.

[maslin]

Maybe someone has something like this for the axial universals?

[SCREAMER]

I have just a couple quick updates to share. Erik at DLux Fab has sent me a new modified bulkhead and it fixed my problem with the ring gear only going in one way. With these big bearing bulkheads, you should have perfect mesh regardless of what side you choose to install the ring gear. I'll keep running the setup I have now as a parts durability test and replace everything with the new bulkhead, BMRC spool, and CVDs if/when the current front driveline fails.

VP is taking care of me with the VVD pin issue.

I think I have settled on a rear suspension setup so here's the final setup for the rear only. Traxxas big bore 2662 4 inch long shocks with 37.5wt oil and axial 14x70mm 3.55lbs/in springs. With the DMG HD bumper, DMG spare mount and spare wheel and tire, and DMG crossbrace/radiator mount, the rear is a lot heavier than It was in Qwiksilver's previous form and therefore, needed a much heavier spring. I also shortened the wheelbase again with DLux Wraith length trailing arms. I tried but I just can't stand the Yeti length/stock Bomber length arms. In every scenario I've tested they've either hindered performance or, at best, made no difference. I lost no stability, climbing ability, or suspension travel but I did gain a much tighter turning radius and better ground clearance and break over angle. IMHO, I feel the only way the longer arms benefit is if you spend most of your time driving over 15mph. I also had significant torque twist after removing the ProLine XTs so I mounted my DLux sway bar and that helped tremendously.

I'm still trying to figure out the front suspension. Jerry, would you mind posting up what you and Jasper are running as far as shocks, oil, and spring weights? This will keep info a bit more consolidated for myself and others.

That's it for now. No new problems and I think I'm really close to getting her dialed in. This rig is so much fun to drive. I'm being really picky with the front shock oil but even at the current setup, the front is so plush. I'd like to try and get a bit more travel and ride height out of the front and just a bit firmer ride without getting bouncy.

[SCREAMER]

I just got a nice surprise in the mail from the DMG. Thanks Jerry!

[bilinvic]

Hey SCREAMER...may I ask you post a photo of the front end looking straight on with the front shocks fully compressed? I am curious as to what the angle of the A-Arms is on your build. TIA

[SCREAMER]

Here you go Bil. At full stuff, the skid is about a half of an inch from touching. There is actually much more up travel to be had from the suspension without binding but not much more down travel. I need to figure out a way to mount longer shocks about 1/4 inch higher than the top eye is mounted now. That would give me more up travel while still preventing chassis slap. If you plan to run dual stage foams, I would stick with a half inch of clearance because the tires will compress quite a bit more than mine do with CI deuces wild foams.

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Here you go Bil. At full stuff, the skid is about a half of an inch from touching. There is actually much more up travel to be had from the suspension without binding but not much more down travel. I need to figure out a way to mount longer shocks about 1/4 inch higher than the top eye is mounted now. That would give me more up travel while still preventing chassis slap. If you plan to run dual stage foams, I would stick with a half inch of clearance because the tires will compress quite a bit more than mine do with CI deuces wild foams.

Dang. Looks so insane at those shot angles. Pic 1=Rottweiler and Pic 2 =Pitbull.

I haven't read up on them but will these Vanquish Products Yeti Front Shock Adjuster Clear Anodized help?

Nice tip on the Foams. They are apart of the suspension one way or another. I went with DD's to combat some of the extra weight i have, i mean my chassis.

[bilinvic]

Thanxs SCREAMER. I wanted to get a reference point for when I get mine underway. I'm playing around with the SC rear Powerstrokes and the Axial Icon shocks to see what I like better with the front end mocked up.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by cmbscx10

I haven't read up on them but will these Vanquish Products Yeti Front Shock Adjuster Clear Anodized help?

Yes, and it's hard to see but if you zoom in you can see I have the black one mounted back on post #42 and you can kind of see it a little in the above post once you know what to look at. It's at the very top of the orange shock tower. The black makes it blend in to the chassis a lot more than the silver one. This did help with spring rate but reduced travel and pushed the shock down forcing me to use a shorter shock to keep the suspension from binding. The shocks that were on there before were trying to push passed the limit of travel for the links and arms. I want the shock to be the limiter not the links and arms binding. That's how parts break prematurely. I have good travel here, I just want a bit more up travel.

[SCREAMER]

Originally Posted by bilinvic

Thanxs SCREAMER. I wanted to get a reference point for when I get mine underway. I'm playing around with the SC rear Powerstrokes and the Axial Icon shocks to see what I like better with the front end mocked up.

Im very curious to see what you come up with Bil. I know on mine, there's no way I could fit Powerstroke rears without pre compressing them quite a bit and causing damage to the front suspension. Here's another way to explain what I mean. Remove the shocks from the front of my IFS now and the arms will only drop a tiny bit. My shocks are stopping the suspension from moving right before they stop on their own. Try cramming a longer shock in there, now your pushing into and passed the limits of available travel.

[bilinvic]

I know exactly what you mean, with the PL Powerstrokes on, the steering is very limited in full droop position. I'm hoping that my IFS kit is going to ship with the new DMG shock tower. I really like the feel of the axial Icon shocks so far on the bench, I may get some addition 14mm springs to try using these.

[nfcrockett]

The best setup I have found for my yeti and exo are powerstroke front slash's with blue axial ax30230 springs and the rpm a-arms flipped upside down. I have plenty of ground clearance and the springs keep the front end up and absorb anything I put it through. I also ditched the shock adjuster. Awesome build screamer. My yeti will be getting parted out and all the upgrades will be going towards an ifs bomber! Really looking forward to the conversion.

[the DMG]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I'm still trying to figure out the front suspension. Jerry, would you mind posting up what you and Jasper are running as far as shocks, oil, and spring weights? This will keep info a bit more consolidated for myself and others.

on jaspers B1B short power strokes up front - Vp shock bracket
25 W oil - 3 hole piston - red / red proline springs

about the same on the B2B short power strokes up front - Vp shock bracket
25 W oil - 3 hole piston - red / yellow proline springs

hopefully this new tower will allow us to use the longer shocks up front !
it will be around 1/4" taller over stock - ill be finding out today !

I've been running 3300 MAH or lower MAH batteries in mine to help reduce front end weight
this has made a "big difference" in the way it handles.

no need for a big 5000 MAH bat !
i still get a good 20 mins or more run time with the 3300 MAH & my set up (Tekin pro4 HD 2500Kv)
& if your racing U4 - heat races are normally only 6 mins long.
keep your batteries as small in MAH as you can - save the weight !!

[Wes S.]

This rig looks amazing Screamer! One question (you don't have to answer it if u like), how much did it cost to make the Bomber have IFS in the front?