RR10 Bomber Stricktly crawling suspension upgrade question..

[CosmicBearings]

I am a noob, I have only been in the hobby for 1.5 years, and crawling about 7 months so I still dont know everything. I have been trying to find informaiton on this but I am having a hard time. What would be the absolute best changes to my suspension that I should make to my Bomber if i want to strictly crawl with it? Thanks in advance!

[Bmxreeves]

Now, this is just guessing. Get rid of trailing arms, if you have a sway bar get rid of that, Tires, suspension ect.


1.9 Ibex tuber

[CosmicBearings]

Originally Posted by Bmxreeves

Now, this is just guessing. Get rid of trailing arms, if you have a sway bar get rid of that, Tires, suspension ect.


1.9 Ibex tuber

So for crawling no sway bar? How do I address the torque twist without one? Also, what would I replace the trailing arms with? As far as suspension goes that is the main question. What shocks? How long?

[allanon1965]

Why get rid of the trailing arms? I have my bomber set up to crawl like my wraith with trailing arms. Works very well

[MD ENFORCER]

Originally Posted by Bmxreeves

Now, this is just guessing. Get rid of trailing arms, if you have a sway bar get rid of that, Tires, suspension ect.


1.9 Ibex tuber

I do not agree with any of this. The swap helps a lot on step hill climbs, and helps to keep both tires on the ground.

Trailing ARMs are fine. Tires, and shocks are the biggest help for crawling.

[Bmxreeves]

Originally Posted by MD ENFORCER

I do not agree with any of this. The swap helps a lot on step hill climbs, and helps to keep both tires on the ground.

Trailing ARMs are fine. Tires, and shocks are the biggest help for crawling.

Ohh ok. I'm not an expert but I'm guessing I thought trailing arms weren't good for crawling.

[zachandandy]

Shorter trailing arms help with breakover angle, turning radius, and even torque twist some. I am torn between wraith length or twin hammers length to really shorten up the wheelbase and help with belly dragging.

[CosmicBearings]

Originally Posted by zachandandy

Shorter trailing arms help with breakover angle, turning radius, and even torque twist some. I am torn between wraith length or twin hammers length to really shorten up the wheelbase and help with belly dragging.

So do you think I should loose the sway bar? Also what shocks is everyone recomending for crawling?

[powder4breakfast]

Cosmic,

I am even newer at this than you. The Bomber I picked up in February is my first real vehicle. I also have been using it strictly as a crawler and have been making changes and driving it all over Utah on a weekly basis since picking it up. Take my opinions as such since there are people on here with much more real knowledge than me.

That being said I have asked a ton of questions here and feel that my Bomber is a much more capable vehicle now than it was when I got it.

First, a sway bar will help tremendously if you are doing technical steep crawling. Without it, you will have a hard time keeping both front tires planted and lose traction on steeps. The Axial sway bar is really stiff... too stiff for crawling according to me. I just switched to the Vanquish Antirock bar last night and haven't had a chance to test it yet. The Dlux sway bar seems to be another popular one and may be even a little softer than the VP according to some. If you already had an Axial sway bar, notch the bar in a few spots with a grinder wheel. It helps a lot.

The Incision links are inexpensive and add low slung weight along with tightening up suspension by reducing the flex of the plastic. I am still waiting for VP to stock trailing arms again. My stock arms are getting soft.

I still don't know jack about shocks; but, I did decide to pick up the Pro-line Pro-Spec (rear) shocks. These are 100mm. I believe the stock shocks are 104mm. These shocks are much smoother and super easy to bleed correctly thanks to a bleeder screw up top. You would need to purchase a spring kit to adjust ride since the springs that come with are too stiff for the front and too soft for the back.

[powder4breakfast]

haha, I just re-read the original question and I went way out into left field. I will edit it down to just the suspension bit.

[Silver2011]

Originally Posted by powder4breakfast

Cosmic,

I am even newer at this than you. The Bomber I picked up in February is my first real vehicle. I also have been using it strictly as a crawler and have been making changes and driving it all over Utah on a weekly basis since picking it up. Take my opinions as such since there are people on here with much more real knowledge than me.

That being said I have asked a ton of questions here and feel that my Bomber is a much more capable vehicle now than it was when I got it.

First, a sway bar will help tremendously if you are doing technical steep crawling. Without it, you will have a hard time keeping both front tires planted and lose traction on steeps. The Axial sway bar is really stiff... too stiff for crawling according to me. I just switched to the Vanquish Antirock bar last night and haven't had a chance to test it yet. The Dlux sway bar seems to be another popular one and may be even a little softer than the VP according to some. If you already had an Axial sway bar, notch the bar in a few spots with a grinder wheel. It helps a lot.

The Incision links are inexpensive and add low slung weight along with tightening up suspension by reducing the flex of the plastic. I am still waiting for VP to stock trailing arms again. My stock arms are getting soft.

I still don't know jack about shocks; but, I did decide to pick up the Pro-line Pro-Spec (rear) shocks. These are 100mm. I believe the stock shocks are 104mm. These shocks are much smoother and super easy to bleed correctly thanks to a bleeder screw up top. You would need to purchase a spring kit to adjust ride since the springs that come with are too stiff for the front and too soft for the back.

these are 110 mom king shocks that are great.

[YeeP]

Originally Posted by Bmxreeves

Now, this is just guessing. Get rid of trailing arms, if you have a sway bar get rid of that, Tires, suspension ect.


1.9 Ibex tuber

Do you believe these answers or are you trying to troll? Get rid of tires and suspension?

[Bmxreeves]

Originally Posted by YeeP

Do you believe these answers or are you trying to troll? Get rid of tires and suspension?

First off, I was trying to say if you have a sway bar take that off.

2. Upgrade suspension and tires

And I do believe that no trailing arms crawl better in some situations

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Bmxreeves

First off, I was trying to say if you have a sway bar take that off.

2. Upgrade suspension and tires

And I do believe that no trailing arms crawl better in some situations

I have trailing arms on my wraith and the bombers are upgraded to ucfab ones. I would never go back to the links on my wraith, crawling ability increased tremendously with the trailing arms and the DMG TA stiffy kit... I will crawl anywhere I point it most of the time.

[theTman]

Switch the motor leads so the motor runs in reverse, then open up your front and rear diff covers and flip your ring gear (the big one) 180 degrees about the pinion ( you will need to rotate your diff cover 180 as well when putting it back on to accommodate the new ring gear location). Flipping your ring gear makes your crawler still move forward when the motor is technically spinning backward, and now the motor spins toward the center of the chassis when going forward rather than toward the left edge. This helps reign in the torque twist some, but FYI now the front right tire is the one getting lifted. Swapping to twin hammers length trailing arms and getting under drive gears in my rear axle combined with this trick practically eliminated the torque twist when using 3s lip with the stock 35t motor (I don't use a sway bar fyi). If you really "floor it" on high grip surfaces like carpet or sidewalks you can get the tire to still lift a little.

A stronger servo and some metal steering links also help a lot. I suggest the SSD titanium steering links for around 15$ from RPP Hobby. I would prioritize the steering linkages over the suspension links as they have a lot of flex, and if you get a beefy servo they will flex even more.

If you upgrade the servo you will want an external BEC to power it as though most esc's have a built in BEC, they are not the maximum voltage the servo can handle, and the amperage being pulled by a strong servo can fry the built in BEC and kill the ESC as well. You will also want a metal servo horn to handle the extra power. I would suggest a Savox SG1230 or SG1231 servo if you can afford a 70$ servo. SG1230 has more torque and is the same price as the 1231, but can be harder to find for sale.

[CosmicBearings]

Originally Posted by powder4breakfast

Cosmic,

I am even newer at this than you. The Bomber I picked up in February is my first real vehicle. I also have been using it strictly as a crawler and have been making changes and driving it all over Utah on a weekly basis since picking it up. Take my opinions as such since there are people on here with much more real knowledge than me.

That being said I have asked a ton of questions here and feel that my Bomber is a much more capable vehicle now than it was when I got it.

First, a sway bar will help tremendously if you are doing technical steep crawling. Without it, you will have a hard time keeping both front tires planted and lose traction on steeps. The Axial sway bar is really stiff... too stiff for crawling according to me. I just switched to the Vanquish Antirock bar last night and haven't had a chance to test it yet. The Dlux sway bar seems to be another popular one and may be even a little softer than the VP according to some. If you already had an Axial sway bar, notch the bar in a few spots with a grinder wheel. It helps a lot.

The Incision links are inexpensive and add low slung weight along with tightening up suspension by reducing the flex of the plastic. I am still waiting for VP to stock trailing arms again. My stock arms are getting soft.

I still don't know jack about shocks; but, I did decide to pick up the Pro-line Pro-Spec (rear) shocks. These are 100mm. I believe the stock shocks are 104mm. These shocks are much smoother and super easy to bleed correctly thanks to a bleeder screw up top. You would need to purchase a spring kit to adjust ride since the springs that come with are too stiff for the front and too soft for the back.

Thank you! I am also in Utah, I will try cutting the sway bar (axial) that I already have to see if that helps. Thank you for letting me know about the incision links as well!

[CosmicBearings]

Originally Posted by Silver2011

these are 110 mom king shocks that are great.

Are those on the rear only then?

[CosmicBearings]

Originally Posted by theTman

Switch the motor leads so the motor runs in reverse, then open up your front and rear diff covers and flip your ring gear (the big one) 180 degrees about the pinion ( you will need to rotate your diff cover 180 as well when putting it back on to accommodate the new ring gear location). Flipping your ring gear makes your crawler still move forward when the motor is technically spinning backward, and now the motor spins toward the center of the chassis when going forward rather than toward the left edge. This helps reign in the torque twist some, but FYI now the front right tire is the one getting lifted. Swapping to twin hammers length trailing arms and getting under drive gears in my rear axle combined with this trick practically eliminated the torque twist when using 3s lip with the stock 35t motor (I don't use a sway bar fyi). If you really "floor it" on high grip surfaces like carpet or sidewalks you can get the tire to still lift a little.

A stronger servo and some metal steering links also help a lot. I suggest the SSD titanium steering links for around 15$ from RPP Hobby. I would prioritize the steering linkages over the suspension links as they have a lot of flex, and if you get a beefy servo they will flex even more.

If you upgrade the servo you will want an external BEC to power it as though most esc's have a built in BEC, they are not the maximum voltage the servo can handle, and the amperage being pulled by a strong servo can fry the built in BEC and kill the ESC as well. You will also want a metal servo horn to handle the extra power. I would suggest a Savox SG1230 or SG1231 servo if you can afford a 70$ servo. SG1230 has more torque and is the same price as the 1231, but can be harder to find for sale.

Wow that is ingenious, DO you have pictures of your rig with the diffs reversed? Any place I can read more about doing that?

[powder4breakfast]

Originally Posted by CosmicBearings

Thank you! I am also in Utah, I will try cutting the sway bar (axial) that I already have to see if that helps. Thank you for letting me know about the incision links as well!

sloppy job but it worked. This is what my Axial bar looked like after placing 3 notches in it. It was perfect when my vehicle was stock; however, after adding more weight it has become too soft... thus the switch to the Currie Antirock last night. Just notch a little at a time and see how it works. You can always take more out; but, if you go to far, you can't fix it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

If you ever visit St. George you have to take your car and drive at Pioneer Park behind the "Dixie" rock. I can't imagine a better crawler spot anywhere. I live in Salt Lake; but, I look forward to every St. George visit. I am now going to have a hard time between biking or hiking and driving my car whenever I am there.

[Silver2011]

Originally Posted by CosmicBearings

Are those on the rear only then?

There all the way around.