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Old 10-01-2016, 07:58 PM   #21
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Default Re: Jato The Bomber

No weight.. heck I don't really use weight in my crawlers anymore
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:57 PM   #22
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No weight.. heck I don't really use weight in my crawlers anymore
How do you get the forward weight bias then?

Gear Head wheels and stock Axial BFG tires for my Bomber.


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Old 10-01-2016, 09:33 PM   #23
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Those Gear Head wheels are super nice!

You could always get Beef Tubes to add some more down low forward weight, or even some knuckle weights... althought I'm pretty sure you'd have to upgrade to something like VP knuckles where the steering arm is bolted to the top of the knuckle, as I think that's how the knuckle weight holders are secured.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:30 PM   #24
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How do you get the forward weight bias then?

Gear Head wheels and stock Axial BFG tires for my Bomber.


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The 3600mah 3s pack shoved under the hood
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:34 PM   #25
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Those Gear Head wheels are super nice!

You could always get Beef Tubes to add some more down low forward weight, or even some knuckle weights... althought I'm pretty sure you'd have to upgrade to something like VP knuckles where the steering arm is bolted to the top of the knuckle, as I think that's how the knuckle weight holders are secured.
Thanks! Gear Head wheels are my favorite by far.

Good idea on the Beef Tubes.

I bought these wheels used and the fronts were weighted so I'm going to try them like that to start. I'm pretty sure I'll be pulling the weights off and not having any weight on the wheels.
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The 3600mah 3s pack shoved under the hood
Turnigy brand?

I have the axles, transmission/transfer case, and links finished. I'm awaiting metal pivot balls and the electronics. Both should be here this week. I'm so impatiently waiting. It's going to be a long week.

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Old 10-01-2016, 10:37 PM   #26
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Thanks! Gear Head wheels are my favorite by far.

Good idea on the Beef Tubes.

I bought these wheels used and the fronts were weighted so I'm going to try them like that to start. I'm pretty sure I'll be pulling the weights off and not having any weight on the wheels.

Turnigy brand?

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Yep, i trimmed a bit for wire clearance but it fits nice. Weight on something you want to jump... actually rotating weight. Is scary, like major shock to your rotating parts scary.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:42 PM   #27
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Yep, i trimmed a bit for wire clearance but it fits nice. Weight on something you want to jump... actually rotating weight. Is scary, like major shock to your rotating parts scary.
Cool I'll check those batteries out. Thanks.

I know! That's why I'll take it easy on my first few runs. The weight alone will be enough to twist Axial driveshafts with the big power.

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Old 10-02-2016, 05:48 AM   #28
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Yep, i trimmed a bit for wire clearance but it fits nice. Weight on something you want to jump... actually rotating weight. Is scary, like major shock to your rotating parts scary.


Same 3s here, need to trim the wires a little shorter as well, just haven't had time.

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Old 10-02-2016, 10:44 AM   #29
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I currently have 2200mAh and 4000mAh 3S LiPos. The 2200's probably won't last long at all in the Bomber and I'm not sure if the 4000 will fit up front. Both sizes are soft packs from HobbyKing. I'll have to try to fit the 4000mAh.

I'm building the driveshafts. Like the CVDs I usually lube them with some sort of black RC grease. We all know that's a catch 22 since the grease attracts dirt. For this build I'm trying something different. I coated them with Ballistol which is what I use to clean and lube most of my guns.

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Old 10-02-2016, 10:48 AM   #30
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You might be surprised on how long a 2200 will last with brushless and conservative gearing, just make sure you have the c rating to handle the amp draw and you should be ok.

I've yet to finish a 3600 pack before breaking something
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:21 AM   #31
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You might be surprised on how long a 2200 will last with brushless and conservative gearing, just make sure you have the c rating to handle the amp draw and you should be ok.

I've yet to finish a 3600 pack before breaking something
That's a good point. The 2200 shocked me at how long it lasted out on the trails in my Sawback.

What's the minimum C Rating you'd recommend?

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Old 10-02-2016, 01:00 PM   #32
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I can get 15 minutes or so out of a 1300mAh 100c 3s. Well over an hour from a 5200.

I run though 15-20k mAh a week, not breaking anything lately
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #33
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The stock King shocks are damn sexy. I need to get the aluminum spring retainers to complete the look.

I used Noleen SF-3 (AKA Associated Green Slime) and Teflon tape so I hope these don't leak like every other Axial shock I've owned.



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Old 10-02-2016, 03:44 PM   #34
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I guess I should do a write up on the o rings I found that helps with that... both my bomber and my SMT-10 are leak free since
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Old 10-02-2016, 04:41 PM   #35
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I guess I should do a write up on the o rings I found that helps with that... both my bomber and my SMT-10 are leak free since
That would be great. O-rings or X-rings?

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Old 10-02-2016, 06:40 PM   #36
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I use Traxxas X rings that Bilinvic turned me onto. Super smooth and leak free. I can't remember the part number but it's one of traxxas' shock rebuild kits.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:20 PM   #37
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That would be great. O-rings or X-rings?

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X-rings I got from McMaster. The traxxas ones I tried had too small of an OD and still ended up leaking on me.
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Old 10-02-2016, 07:31 PM   #38
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X-rings I got from McMaster. The traxxas ones I tried had too small of an OD and still ended up leaking on me.
Would you mind sharing the part number?

I got the axles, transmission, transfer case, links and some of the cage built. I'm about as far as I can go before painting and receiving the electronics. It's going to be a long week to wait!

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Old 10-02-2016, 09:00 PM   #39
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I'm 90% sure these were them, judging by my previous orders. I'd have to get in the work shop to be sure.

I used the stock axial o-rings and put two of these in between them instead of the spacer.
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Old 10-02-2016, 09:24 PM   #40
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I'm 90% sure these were them, judging by my previous orders. I'd have to get in the work shop to be sure.

I used the stock axial o-rings and put two of these in between them instead of the spacer.
Thank you!

Do you do anything special to the top to prevent leaking there? I put a very thin coat of green slime on the bladder and then Teflon tape on the shock body threads.

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