The "Just shut up and build it" thread...

[durok]

Months(!) ago, I bought the Axial RR10 Bomber kit.

(Yes, that's why I'm finally posting my first actual own thread - only responded to others before. So exciting! Please be merciful... some of you have heard bits of this before)

I live right by a public park that I used to just mountain-bike in, has perfect terrain for a rock-crawler. As I was an 81mm Mortarman (long ago) in the Marines, I crack up at the little bomb logo because to me it looks just like a mortar round dropping out of the sky. Had to get it, needed to have a second reason to go outside, sometimes the idea of carrying my bike down and then back up 3 flights of stairs bracketing a ride is more than I can motivate for.

It just has to turn into an actual build thread, hence the name - and so begins my tale of misadventure and woe, followed by my plan, and always (ALWAYS!) hoping for input from the most excellent and esteemed members here at RCC...

OK, I haven't run RC in ages and never had a crawler. That's what I wanted to get right before a minor tragedy (FIRE!) occurred and I lost all 12 or so of my mildly modded RCs of all kinds, tons of uninstalled hop-ups, uncut/unpainted extra bodies, chargers, radios, batteries (no LiPos, yet) and other gear. Never mind practically everything else I owned, but that's OK, wasn't home, didn't start the damn thing, had just got renter's insurance months before - it's basically all good now.

So, starting over, besides the kit - got a couple SMC 4300 3S LiPos, a Dynamite C3000 Passport Ultra 100W charger, Futaba 3PV tx/rx, Axial aluminum servo horn, Axial HD UD gears for the ass-end, Axial grey springs in stock Bomber rates, Traxxas 2662 Big Bores, Dlux Fab Big Bore shock ends and no-preload spring cups, HH spools F&R and lastly, even tho' I'm over 50 - whatever - a handful of all kinds of tiny stickers to match... 'cause they're so cute.

I got stuff to replace of all the Bomber Blue... (personal preference) This ain't no Air Force Bomber, it's a ground-to-ground projectile. Like a mortar. Launch it up in the air and it's gonna come down the other side of what's in the way and land on the enemies head.

OK, back to what's at hand here...

Driving style/terrain:

I'm pretty sure my RR10 (with the setup I have and a couple more parts) is going to be used mostly at or below 15mph, perhaps 20mph if I can get there on smooth & dusty or grassy terrain - no "big" jumps, little 1-foot hops over natural features at most. I won't be jamming the wheels and tires in between big rocks or in cracks and binding it up, no competition crawling or racing. I hope to have it perform well at what I like to think of as "scale" speeds when hill-climbing, trail-running, slow-bouncing over smaller rocks, and crawling up easier large rocks.

(more comin')

[durok]

Also - I made a Holmes Hobbies order containing a Castle Creations Mamba Monster X / HH Puller Pro 540 Std 2200kv Combo, also a HH SHV500 servo, and CC Quick Connect(s). Yes, explanation is needed!

Never had a crawler as I said - but other than some stupidity with running across fields with a nitro RC10GT and the first-gen T-Maxx, the fastest RC off-road vehicle I had was a Losi 2WD truck running a Novak Super Sport SS5800 brushless motor with 7.2v NiMH stick packs, I couldn't really run it flat-out unless I got on a really smooth surface with a very long straight. More often I just used bursts of acceleration to clear obstacles, spin the tires to get the back end to swing around on loose stuff, and climb grades. I was very happy speed-wise with that.

So I was more than kinda dense when I made the Holmes Hobbies order, because I screwed up my combo selection on the Puller Pro Std 540 motor - meant to get a 2700kv, because they were out of the 3500kv that I really thought I wanted.

You know, not just "Volt up, gear down", but also "Get the highest kv and gear down".

Hah.

Accidentally fat-fingered and ordered the 2200kv. 1st (possibly - see later in this admittedly long post) mistake.

Then I picked the Castle Creations MMX because of the adjustable drag brake on the fly, 'cause I'm not used to drag brake. Figured I'd learn easier that way. Not a mistake, still want that!

OK, I just "had" to get that fancy new HH SHV500 servo... because I didn't really realize yet that the MMX's built-in BEC could deliver plenty of servo power for a HV500 or ProModeller 420oz-in (v2, v3, v4 whatever it was at the time).

But, I didn't make it clear I needed the servo pigtail soldered to the battery leads because I can't solder for shit anymore for various reasons (sad story).

So now, I have the SHV500 that to my understanding is less than happy getting power from a BEC - even the MMX's uber-powerful one. I was just trying to avoid having to get an external! D'Oh! 2nd mistake.

Lastly, somehow I ordered 2 CC Quick Connects and I only needed one. Oh, and now I read that the "Duo" Quick Connect is what I should have got because it's specifically designed for CC ESCs with the AUX connection (for on the fly drag-brake selection, etc.) 3rd mistake

Well mistakes happen, these should be fixable.

BTW - when I first composed this I had everything crammed into one post, it was incredibly long and almost illegible. That may still be the case! I hope not, and I would like to note that I had many posts before doing this thread and I would edit the existing post if I wanted to add something. I just never had so much to say, because now - as the title states, I need to get with the program and build this here toy car! So....

(more comin')

[JatoTheRipper]

Sorry to hear about the fire, but I'm glad you had insurance!

Good post. It was entertaining.

Did you get the sensor harness for the MMX?

I the MMX's auxiliary wire is awesome. I use it to toggle the drag brake and I already love it.

I just ordered a Quick Connect. If you have to use the Duo then I ordered the wrong one well!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[durok]

As far as the kv of the Puller to use in my RR10:

John Holmes and his wild bunch have been more than supportive of my wanting options on correcting my error, offering to send me a replacement different kv motor upon receipt of my 2200kv, but I think I may just say screw it and try keeping it.

15mph top speed should be fine, really don't want to continually break plastic stuff. Because of recent financial issues I am thinking of building without all the SSD axle housings/knuckles/C-hubs that I planned. Someday they will come! So, it's going to be lighter than I thought now, and I don't want parts-breaking torque OR top speed.

Maybe run it with the 2200kv for with 64/12, and not install my rear UD HD gears in until I get the SSD stuff. Maybe bump the pinion up 1-2 clicks to a 13 or 14t to get around 15mph flat-out. So with that, plan to just go with my included kit upgrades, buy a VP aluminum servo mount and Incision aluminum wheels for a little more durability and precision in the steering and with the hubs. Have a $50 Amazon card and a small unexpected check that would cover most of that. New CI foams almost immediately thereafter for handling.

The 2200kv roughly equates to a 17.5t, and I'll be running 11.1v 3S instead of a pitiful 7.2v 6-cell NiMH, maybe good to go for now with that setup. Worst case, I run the 2200kv for a while while learning crawler basics and sell it towards a higher kv Holmes brushless later, or save it to be used with a SCX10 II or Ascender Chevy flatbed that I'd like to get in the future if all goes well!

As far as the servo goes, I was going to send the servo power pigtail back as well to be soldered to the MMX battery leads , but that means the MMX need to go to. Ack. So, I was thinkin'.... (Uh-Oh, could be dangerous)

What if:

I try running the Holmes SHV500 off the MMX BEC? I know it won't have the full rated performance figures that are listed for running from the 3S :

Torque @ 11.1v: 32.4 kg/cm (450 oz/inch)
Speed @ 11.1v: 0.10 sec
Torque @ 14v: 37.5 kg/cm (520 oz/inch)
Speed @ 14v: 0.08 sec

But if I set the ESC BEC to a high voltage, it's adjustable from 5.5V, 6.0V, 7.5V and 8.0V with an 8 AMP peak... So, set at 8v, is it going to disappoint me? Cause issues with the servo's longevity?

I'd think if I get 350-400oz/inch torque and at least 0.14 sec of speed I'd be OK. I'd be planning on eventually wiring it up right somehow, maybe meeting a local crawler that has "skillz" to do it for beer.

Maybe I should exchange it for the HV500, rated for :

Torque @ 6v: 25.9 kg/cm (360 oz/inch)
Speed @ 6v: 0.14 sec
Torque @ 7.4v: 32.4 kg/cm (450 oz/inch)
Speed @ 7.4v: 0.12 sec
Torque @ 8.4v: 36.0 kg/cm (500 oz/inch)
Speed @ 8.4v: 0.11 sec

and just not worry.

That would mean more stuff to pack up and return. Basically I could return everything and start fresh... Well, keep the MMX if I'm just gonna use it's BEC and not need any soldering done to it. Get a different servo, return the Castle Quick Connects (both, so dumb... sigh), switch to other motor kv or I could keep the motor and get a 4S LiPo for a day that I wanted more speed, and I could use it with the BEC. As it stands now, I can't use a 4S with the SHV500 if I get it soldered to the battery leads on the MMX. Too much power unless I set the charger to not put more than 16v in it.

It all boils down to this!

I'm getting very jealous of other user's builds, and have a fair amount of extra time off right now and NEED to just freakin' build the thing!!!

I'd like to just start as is with what I've got, but if it seems to be a bad idea (I don't want to plug up, run and possibly ruin the servo that way, for example, or run the electronics too hot) I suppose biting the bullet and shipping stuff back and starting over is best.

If anyone reads some (or all) of this thread so far and provides constructive input, I'll be forever in your debt!

[durok]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Did you get the sensor harness for the MMX?

I the MMX's auxiliary wire is awesome. I use it to toggle the drag brake and I already love it.

I just ordered a Quick Connect. If you have to use the Duo then I ordered the wrong one well!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Yes, Holmes included the 5.5" Sensor Wire for CC MMX to Sensored BL motors in the Combo. Has the different ends on it so it should work fine, and it's $7! He has a 10.5" version for $8. I haven't done a single thing with my kit except slip a grey Axial spring on a Big Bore to gratify myself as to how much more I was gonna love the NO BLUE aspect..........

That Duo version of the Quick Connect - I just briefly checked the Castle site because I want to use my little $75 Windows 10 tablet to program the MMX in the field, and was like, Oh - yeah, need to hurry up and send that damn coupon in for the actual Castle Link and than saw the mention about the Aux Channel on the difference between the Duo and the regular. I'm sure you can do the vast majority of your programming with the regular version, I think if you needed to program the Aux channel itself you might need to bypass the Quick Connect unless you have the Duo.

My head hurts too much to go back and read the details right now!

Many thanks for posting here, and for things you've previously posted

I have been reading and lurking for quite a while before even joining - I even came here way back before "the tragedy" when I wanted a crawler. I used to fight the urge to buy the very first Axial crawler/rock racers that appeared in the stores. All that bright Green! And then the Orange! I even had a Axial body or 2 that I was gonna mod to use on something else that I ended up losing. I even worked at a LHS for a while long ago (B.C. - Before Crawlers, at least store-bought ones). Nowhere enough money to live on in Austin.

I read really fast, comes from growing up without a TV in the house - strict parents. And, since that was before the internet and personal computers, I read everything I could get my hands on for fun.

Now, I waste away in front of this square-headed girlfriend of mine. Need to get out more. I sure do love her, though - but they tell me it's really an addiction that I think is love! RUN! It's a trick!

[84yoda]

Do you have any hobby shops around you? If so, they can solder your adapter for your servo. Or just start building your kit and send your stuff back. Im sure putting the kit together will keep you busy while you wait for shipping. But I bet you will be more then happy with your current setup. Just like your title says.... Lol.

[calcagno45]

If you're running 3s, you will be fine with the 2200kv and the SHV500. Just run the servo directly off the battery like its intended instead going thru the receiver. Then you'll still have the BEC in the MMX to power lights or a winch if necessary. 3s on the 2200kv should make good power and be able to gear up from stock a click or two for a bit more speed if necessary.

[durok]

Even though I have no plans to run lights or a winch, I do agree that ideally I should follow HH instructions and power the servo directly from the 3S.

Using a combination of mikebecher's 2200kv RR10 speed chart and RC Calculations website to up the pinion from 12t to 14t, it works out to 15.23mph max with a 64t spur and the kit standard HD diff gears and Axial BFG Baja T/A KR2 tires.

[calcagno45]

R/C Calculations

Enter the following information and you should be able to see the calculated speeds. Click the gears next to the mph and it will quick show how going up or down on the pinion will affect the speed.

[durok]

^^^ Yeah, that's where I went to get the numbers - Love that site!

I even went so far as plugging in the "fully charged" 3S voltage, different spur gears, the other HH PP kv options, a short-charged to 16v max 4S LiPo, and a couple larger tire sizes.

Everything makes a little difference...

My local LHS unfortunately doesn't do soldering... (won't name 'em, they're of little use to a crawler enthusiast)

Called a computer repair place, they said they could most likely do it - they have soldered a new capacitor back on a motherboard for me years ago.

But - I'm leaning towards my local Batteries Plus store - since they build battery packs and whatnot, they said just bring in the wires. I might even find something else I want there!

Possible good news alert... my recent financial worries maybe over, may be as soon as Monday. I should know for certain tomorrow.

To be safe I'd still wait on my complete SSD makeover, but could go ahead with ordering a few more items like the Vanquish servo mount, Incision wheels, CI foams, and perhaps a couple Carter Fabrications panels.

We will see!

[durok]

Slooowwwly....

Got the soldering done at the local Batteries Plus for $3 plus tax - Hah!

Ordered and received Incision wheels and motor mount, VP servo mount/servo clamps/trusses, SSD Pro knuckles/C-hubs/Ti steering links, CI Double Deuce foams, Yeah Racing lock-outs, Axial 14t pinion, and Boom Racing stainless Kronik axle tubes... also got my free (with coupon) Castle Link.

I went for the less expensive lock-outs ($14!) and tubes ($29 for 2 axle sets!) because this will be the setup until I can budget for SSD Diamond housings, with a centered rear. Didn't want to buy Beef Tubes at $$70 for both axles, and SSD doesn't make lockouts - not used on their centered rear axle (well, they come with little short ones). Other brands of lockouts are about $35. Put those together and I could afford the centered rear SSD axle housing!

Also dropped by the LHS and picked up a can of Tamiya PS-55 flat clear spray for polycarbonate. Planning on laying stickers/decals down and spraying the whole thing to get a matte finish and sort of hide the edges of the decals.

Filed down my rear axle ridges today just enough for them to fit through the tubes, tested the slip-fit into the Holmes Lockers, and assembled my Incision Methods/CI Double Deuces/Axial R35 kit compound Baja T/A's.

Assembled the stock spare with a stock foam and I gotta say, the Incisions with the Crawler Innovation foams were much easier to build! Hate the super-thick rim look of the stock plastic wheel, too - sticks out too far. Not polishing the outer rim of the Methods, like the all black look for now. Maybe after they get all banged-up I will change my tune.

They sho' are purty!

[durok]

(Sigh) still ordering instead of building!

SSD REAR TRAILING ARMS FOR YETI
SSD M3 HD Plastic Rod Ends for Trailing Arms
Hot Racing Aluminum Axle Lower Shock Mounts
SSD HD Diff Covers
Axial Flanged Balls (Metal)
Vanquish Products Axial OCP Axle Bearing Caps
Hot Racing Aluminum Vented Double Hex Slipper Yeti

Gonna drop by my LHS to check and see if I can find any Revo rod ends (RPP is out)

... more to come

[durok]

And...

I can't believe I finally found these - had to log into fleabay for the first time in years, but I got 2 sets of Carter Fab WildBoar WB8 HD steel driveshaft retainer rings, which he seems to have stopped selling as the source for the machine work dried up. CKRC Hobbies was the vendor, and it looks like they can be had direct from their site as well. I wouldn't expect them to have very many left. These supposedly lengthen the lifespan of the Axial plastic driveshafts to no end, even when tested in with 4S on a Yeti. Also, picked up Carter Fab full wrap-around sides that go up to the roofline, and of course one of his roof panels. I'm still unsure what hood I want to go with... either the pointed BarnDog Racing one or a custom AMF (AdvancedMetalFab) panel I spotted on fleabay as part of a complete exterior upgrade package. Contacted AMF as to if it's going to go on sale separately at some point, because I don't need the rest of the package. I have the SS skid from them, and I am somewhat interested in their rear panel with a mounted tow hook.

Guess I may not even paint up my lexan panels!

[sabo308]

Sounds the goods, man. Can't wait to see some pics!

Those Carter Fab retainer rings sound interesting, I've not heard of them before... makes total sense, though!

[rngrchad]

You'll love the 2200kv motor for sure, that was a good mistake you made in my opinion, as it's easier to change batteries than gearing, and if you want speed or slow low end resolution just change from 4s to 2s and never mess with spurs or pinions. I read your entire thread Durok! You need some pictures my man! Hahahah, hoping this Bomber comes to fruition for you!

[durok]

Thanks, guys!

Yeah - pics would be best, but right now it would just be bags of parts and the assembled wheel/tire/foam combo...

Anyone curious about the Carter Fab WB8 HD Retaining Ring update, here is a link to pics/description/ordering:

CFMWB8HD - Carter Fab Wildboar WB8 HD Driveshaft Retainer Rings | CKRC Hobbies

I experienced something that can happen when you gather parts too slowly - SSD has released an updated Version 2 of their Titanium Steering Links for Wraith, RR10, SMT10 & AX10 with AR60 axle.

It has an extra bend in the steering link for full clearance and slightly different rod ends. I recently purchased their previous version as I was worried that the Axial kit "gold" links would not be compatible with the SSD Pro knuckles and C-hubs.

As I'm trying to really set this rig up as perfect as I can for my purposes and budget, I hope I get good steering with what I ordered - sometimes manufacturers make confusing or contradicting statements when discussing compatibility:

SSD Pro aluminum knuckles "When fitted on RR10 will require Wraith steering tie rod or SSD Titanium steering link (SSD00021)"

Then they come out with a V.2 of what's recommended!

Titanium Steering Links V2 for Wraith / RR10 / SMT10

Original V.1 :

TI STEERING LINKS

Oh, well - one way or another I'll make it work out. I did score some Jato rod ends and a Team KNK SS Screw kit for my RR10 from online.

Everyone please enjoy building, tuning, upgrading and driving their Bombers, I hope to stop ordering parts and begin assembling mine soon!

[durok]

OK - I think I'm done ordering parts, just a couple more arriving and I have to start building the damn thing...

I received a ton of stuff today, most of it much sooner than expected! AMF responded to my email on fleabay - he's selling me one of those "Deluxe" hoods separately, so I bought his rear panel with tow hook while I was at it.
Gonna see if I can mount it and the Carter Fab full side panels AND still keep the Axial spare mount - might need some longer screws.

From Amazon (AsiaTees as the actual vendor) I ordered the Boom Racing "BullRopeRC" rear upper shock mount with crossbar - always liked that particular chunk of aluminum. May try running a pair of longer screws through the upper section of the Carter Fab sides and into the shock mount to keep the tips of the panels from getting pulled away in a tumble.

Lastly, I went ahead and ordered the Dlux Fab modified plastic axle housings that carry the larger pinion bearing. That should make for a very beefy and reliable setup without going to aluminum housings at this time.

That should do me - when they and the Jato rod ends and of course the Team KNK SS screw kit arrive I can't think of anything else for the near future. Someday - MAYBE I'll go with SSD Diamond housings (centered rear) and replace the transmission gears with a combo of Hot Racing steel internal and Robinson Racing spur/pinion gears. If I break more things I can go on from there - we will see how the Axial "gold" links hold up with better rod ends (although the steering is already going to be SSD Ti for geometry reasons, I suppose) and how well the plastic WildBoar HD shafts hold up with the Carter Fab steel retainer rings. Could go Ti or SS for all the links and MIP if needed. I'm happy starting this way, though - I got all the parts to kill all the Blue (LOL), add a little weight, reinforce various plastic areas known to be somewhat fragile, and of course make it unique when completed.

Now to wait a little longer for those final pieces, and then find some free time for building. I'm sure I'll run into situations where I'll get stuck and might need a bit of help, but I have been reading daily to gain more and more knowledge - just haven't built a kit in a long time, and never a crawler!


I thoroughly appreciate all the members here for posting what has and has not worked for them as well as those who have answered my specific questions - whether it be in a thread or in a PM. Thanks to the vendors for being very helpful as well!

[calcagno45]

Lots of text and talk with no pictures... what gives??

[durok]

It's just a pile of parts - no fun there!

BTW - I'm guilty of a little fib above, as well - forgot about Carter Fab inner fenders - went to his site and scored what was the last set in stock... now I'm truly done ordering...

[Sammy J.]

I'm looking forward to watching you build this rig. I took mine out for a little crawling and trailing yesterday. The Bomber is fun to build and fun to drive!


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