My IFS Bomber Build

[Deckard]

Thanks for the details on the HH servo. I almost got one at Christmas time but ended up getting a Xpert 7701 for the B1B due to some crazy discounts. This 7701 has be the best servo I have ever owned. Next rig may get the HH or ProModeler or maybe another 7701.

Don't laugh at my front shock tower mod. It's a bit janky but it works well and lets me use the 103s on the front. I'm working on getting something made but a buddy is doing it. You know how that is though.....I may get it before I start collecting social security. Shock Keys are handy little things though.

This pic was taken last week. 1.9 enduro event in Barnwell Mountain, TX (don't let them fool you, it's a hill). After killing the motor in my 1.9 Wraith I got to play with the B1B. I had much more fun with the B1B than the 1.9 Wraith.

[84yoda]

Hahahahahaha Deckard!!!! Just kidding. Performance over looks any day.

Where did you get those short limit straps? Or did you modify a set?

[calcagno45]

Originally Posted by *Old*

Thanks Durok,

Adding a bushing on both ends sounds like a great idea. I'm wondering if I can find a bushing that will fit this pin and drill out the hole for it to fit...You got me thinking, thank you

I'll check out that link you sent when I get a moment. Thanks again.

Send that servo into Holmes for warranty. He talked about having his equipment setup to insert the bushing in existing servos.

[Deckard]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Hahahahahaha Deckard!!!! Just kidding. Performance over looks any day.

Where did you get those short limit straps? Or did you modify a set?

Limit straps are custom made from KBess Mfg. Only way I know to find him is on FaceBook. He's really cool. They match perfectly with the Hornet panels and Raptor body. I had the beater black panels on because I knew I would be beating the living hell out of the rig that day.

Clean, get dirty, clean, get dirty. /crawlerlife.

[am4x4]

Going back to checking to see if your dog bone pins are bottoming out in the cup...You need to turn the shaft 90 deg from where you had it so the pin is vertical, then look at the bottom side when the suspension is at full droop. That will be where your clearance is the tightest at any point in the rotation/travel range.

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[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Deckard

Thanks for the details on the HH servo. I almost got one at Christmas time but ended up getting a Xpert 7701 for the B1B due to some crazy discounts. This 7701 has be the best servo I have ever owned. Next rig may get the HH or ProModeler or maybe another 7701.

Don't laugh at my front shock tower mod. It's a bit janky but it works well and lets me use the 103s on the front. I'm working on getting something made but a buddy is doing it. You know how that is though.....I may get it before I start collecting social security. Shock Keys are handy little things though.

Hahaha, that looks good man . Redneck engineering at it's finest .
I'm just messin'...

As of right now, I'm not sure I can recommend the HH servo. It's nice and quiet and I like the fact that it powers off the battery, but the pin and pin hole area are really weak.
Thanks for Durok for posting that link, so I'm reading that their new ones will have bushings for the pin, so that should be a significant upgrade. I sent them an email on that so just waiting to hear back from them.
I can't say enough about their service though, and that certainly factors in my decision on going with a company like theirs.

Originally Posted by calcagno45

Send that servo into Holmes for warranty. He talked about having his equipment setup to insert the bushing in existing servos.

Yeah, just waiting to hear back from them on this. They tend to take a week to respond. I'm patient

Originally Posted by am4x4

Going back to checking to see if your dog bone pins are bottoming out in the cup...You need to turn the shaft 90 deg from where you had it so the pin is vertical, then look at the bottom side when the suspension is at full droop. That will be where your clearance is the tightest at any point in the rotation/travel range.

Thanks, I checked again and with the bones vertical, it still clears.
Deckard maybe on to something about the RPM Aarms flexing which could cause the bones to bottom out in the cup. I can't really imagine these arms flexing b/c they're so solid feeling, but anything can happen when you're doing stupid shit I guess.

[*Old*]

Wanted to just post up a reminder for anyone with locked front IFS, to check your screw shaft often. I used red loctite on mine and somehow one of them worked itself loose and cause some damage to the locker. Was very fortunate that once it got loose, it got stuck in some grease and stayed put. Could've been a lot worse of it got between the pinion and diff ring.
I checked the other screwshaft (there are 2 total), and it was loose, but not out. Red loctite is usually a bitch to try to loosen, but not in these lockers

Found out this during a high speed trail run and suddenly noticed only 3 wheels turning on a steep climb. I carried on the rest of the run with it like this, but it really made things difficult with 3WD.

Here are some super closeups.
You can see the screw shaft at the bottom there. Got lucky with that one


Here is the damage to the locker. Threads were stripped somewhat where the "tear" is, but when I put a new screwshaft back it, (with red loctite), I was able to torque it down super tight.


This is the Dlux titanium output shaft - was afraid the loose screwshaft would oval out the output hole, but it's still tight

[*Old*]

While I'm here, figure I post several pics of this cool trail we found close to my home and this place is made for the B1B. It consist of a long windy, loose dirt trail with a steep climb and some decent size root/ruts sticking up the ground towards the top.
Pics don't do it justice, but this was not a day of slow crawling. It was very high speed chasing up and down this trail with some crazing drifting turns which is different from we've been doing and really good change of pace to mix things up. Towards the top we would have to slow it down a little to crawl up/down the roots, but once we hit the loose dirt, it was full throttle back down/up. Fun day of racing.
The Wraith and solid axle Bomber would flip a lot and cause some NASCAR like crashes, but the B1B would cruise along. I plan to get some shorter shocks for the Wraith and Solid Bomber to lower the COG. They're running stock shocks now which are way too long.
Wish I had my daughter with us to take some action pics and video

[*Old*]

Figure I post a quick little thing on fixing my shock leaks.
So I got the GMade XD Piggybacks 93mm front and 103mm rear. I'm a fan of these shocks b/c they are cheap and simple and have infinite adjustability.
My 93mms don't leak at all. Must've did something right when I put them together. But my 103s been leaking like crazy since day 1. Even took it apart and carefully rebuilt it and put thicker shock oil (45wt) and that didn't help.
So after doing some research I found a lot folks mentioning this green slime stuff and some chatter about Traxxas XD rings #2362 as a good solution to fix. I can say after doing this, I ran the truck heavily through the above trail pics you see and can happily report, they do not leak.
I didn't see any write up on how to do this, so I figure I'll post one here:


So here's a pic of one of the leaky shocks.




Here is the Team Associated Green Slime and the Traxxas shock kit with the XD rings.



Here is the XD rings you want. The kit comes with 4 of them, and I used 2 each in one shock, so enough to do 2.




Before taking apart the shock, I tighten the reservoir screw to force all the oil into the shock housing.




If you didn't toss this out, find your trusty Gmade plastic shock wrench




I noticed the shock oil was black and nasty. Must've sucked in some of that creek water when my truck was completely submerged.




Because of the possible water intrusion, I completely took the shock apart to give it a thorough cleaning. You can skip this step if you are only replacing the oil and doing the green slime and XD rings as you only need to remove the plastic shock bottom to get to the O-rings.




I'm only posting this pic to remind me incase I need it in the future, that I used the 3 hole with 30wt oil.




I couldn't figure out which plastic piece to replace with the XD rings and realized the plastic piece uptop with groove was not the one to replace b/c the clip will not hold the XD rings in place.




So I replaced the little spacer in the middle with 2 XD rings. 2 of them are the right thickness.
Lubed up the Rings and the Orings with the green slime and put it back together. It should go in the shock bottom like: Oring, XDring, XD Ring, Oring, Plastic grooved piece.





I used thread sealant on the threads that are exposed to the exterior.





Also, figured out what to use for the shock eye issue I mentioned a bunch of post prior. Used the stock Axial ones that came with the Wraith Spawn. Axial # 1356. Fits perfect!




Put it all back together and donesky. No more shock leak



I hope this helps someone.

[Deckard]

The oil in my Gmades is always black. Even when I'm tuning and it's not in there for long. I used green slime when I filled them a few times. I don't even bother anymore. They don't leak as bad as some shocks I have, but more than my Traxxas big bores. The tuning had made the gmades my top choice. The price doesn't hurt either.

The spot looks amazing. I have to get in the car and drive if I want to play. Dallas sucks.

[Rumpelhardt]

Ok. At the risk of sounding like the complete noob that I am. What is the advantage of a ifs Bomber over a Yeti?

[Deckard]

It feels a lot different than a Yeti to me. I haven't driven a 1:10 Yeti much, just the Yeti XL. When I did drive the Yeti 1:10 it was okay. Nose heavy on jumps, turned like a boat, open front made trailing tiresome. I'm sure if I had my own 1:10 Yeti I could tune it enough to enjoy more. My buddies lightly modified RTR wasn't what I wanted out of a rig.

My B1B is by far my favorite rig. With the locked front I have no problem taking it on a trail run. It's my go to trail rig. I even take it crawling often but for pure crawling I like my 1.9 Wraith better. The B1B loves to go fast and if it's lowered like a U4 rig, it can go fast with ease. Mine is really well balanced (a good side effect if my rear axle weight and electronics) and is a lot of fun to jump. It's an expensive rig so I don't jump it as high as my son does his Slash. On a U4 track the B1B is a lot of fun.

It's a fun rig and the kit is reasonably priced. You start adding highend electronics and mods and like all rigs the price goes up quickly. If you have a dedicated crawler but want something different and faster, I can't recommend the B1B enough. The few events I've been to since building it, I haven't seen another one. It gets looks and I enjoying talking about it. I've had a few people say they're going to order the kit.

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Deckard

The oil in my Gmades is always black. Even when I'm tuning and it's not in there for long. I used green slime when I filled them a few times. I don't even bother anymore. They don't leak as bad as some shocks I have, but more than my Traxxas big bores. The tuning had made the gmades my top choice. The price doesn't hurt either.

The spot looks amazing. I have to get in the car and drive if I want to play. Dallas sucks.

Thanks Deck,
I didn't realized the oil always turns black, shows you how much I know , but glad to hear I don't need to disassemble my front shocks.
The front Gmades I put together are not leaking at all. Maybe I got lucky, b/c I didn't use any green slime or XDs or nothing.
I can report that the XD ring upgrade I did above fixed the rear shock leak completely as well...atleast after 3 trail runs, still not leaking .
I will also say that I just bought 4 pairs of the Gmade piggys 93mm and put them together with the green slime and XD rings and put them in my sons Wraith and Bomber and it's only been through one trail run thus far, but no leaks. The stock shocks they replaced were leaking way worse than my rear Gmades.
So in short, the XD ring mod maybe the answer to a leak free shock

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by Rumpelhardt

Ok. At the risk of sounding like the complete noob that I am. What is the advantage of a ifs Bomber over a Yeti?

No problem bro. I'm a noob just like you

To be honest, I never built or ran a Yeti, so I'm probably not the right person to ask this. Hopefully one of the more knowledgeable dudes that have built and ran both on this site can respond to that question.

But just from eyeing it up, the B1B has a smaller belly than the Yeti = less drag over rocks. From some videos I've seen, the B1B seems to be a more competent "crawler" than the Yeti, but does as good of a job as a high speed rock racer.

[*Old*]

I realized I forgot to post how I mounted the hood onto the B1B.
with the B1B shock tower brace up front, it does not allow you to run the little plastic "hood hinge" piece that the Bombers come with.
I don't like those very much anyway, since I find the hood doesn't hinge back far enough to allow you to much space when changing batteries with ridiculously tight connections like the Venom Lipo to Traxxas adapter piece.

My first inclination was to use a 1/4" cable clamp and drill some holes in the hood similar to the Wraith hood mod, however, the bomber front hood lip would hit the shock tower.

so the solution I came up with is using rare earth magnets along the front. B/c of the steel shock tower brace, the magnets are pretty strong that I have not had an issue with it being knocked off. I do use the body clips at the top of the hood.
I like this way b/c as it allows you to completely take off the hood to give my hands more room.


Here is the steel shock tower brace. As you can see no room to mount the stock hinge clip.






Here are the "rare earth magnets". They're not really "rare", but that's what they call em' .
I used the thick krazy glue gel type to glue these on.


Here it is installed.

[*Old*]

Well fellas, Not a good night of building for me .

I wanted to try a "limited slip" front end using the 20Million weight diff fluid, to see if I would like it more than a locked front on this B1B and possibly for the B2B.

Got all the parts ready and was putting it together and taking photos to document, but then realized I could not remove the VP hub from one of my axle stub. This shit is on so tight. I even heated the shit out of it with a heat gun and tried pulling it off with an adjustable wrench clamp but it just won't budge. Looking for any ideas here. ???
btw, I have removed them before in the past. I'm wondering if the pin is bent somewhat inside it.




So I gave up on that, then I go to remove the 12.9 screws from my diff and locker and snap! One of the screws twisted right off. Dammit!! Ruined a perfectly good locker.
Yes, I used red loctite, and no, I didn't use my heat gun on it.
Well, I used the heat gun on the rest of them afterwards and it worked well to loosen them up. Total rookie mistake.



So I quit for tonight and hopefully tomorrow or the next will be a better day for me.


Just another day or two before I can try this out!

[dpcardoza]

Originally Posted by *Old*

Well fellas, Not a good night of building for me .



I wanted to try a "limited slip" front end using the 20Million weight diff fluid, to see if I would like it more than a locked front on this B1B and possibly for the B2B.



Got all the parts ready and was putting it together and taking photos to document, but then realized I could not remove the VP hub from one of my axle stub. This shit is on so tight. I even heated the shit out of it with a heat gun and tried pulling it off with an adjustable wrench clamp but it just won't budge. Looking for any ideas here. ???

btw, I have removed them before in the past. I'm wondering if the pin is bent somewhat inside it.









So I gave up on that, then I go to remove the 12.9 screws from my diff and locker and snap! One of the screws twisted right off. Dammit!! Ruined a perfectly good locker.

Yes, I used red loctite, and no, I didn't use my heat gun on it.

Well, I used the heat gun on the rest of them afterwards and it worked well to loosen them up. Total rookie mistake.







So I quit for tonight and hopefully tomorrow or the next will be a better day for me.





Just another day or two before I can try this out!

One thing that I found works well is using a soldering iron on the screw head for 15-20 seconds. Releases even red locktite like it's not even there. Helps limit the heating of parts you don't want hot. I've only grabbed the ring gear once after using a heat gun. Sob stays hot for a while.


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[DenisLM]

No need for red loctite anywhere. Blue do the job just fine.
Also looks like you are using the HPI spider gears. Be careful because they are brittle and break instead wear out. I broke two of those in less than two races...

[*Old*]

Originally Posted by dpcardoza

One thing that I found works well is using a soldering iron on the screw head for 15-20 seconds. Releases even red locktite like it's not even there. Helps limit the heating of parts you don't want hot. I've only grabbed the ring gear once after using a heat gun. Sob stays hot for a while.

LOL. Yeah man, I learned the hard way as well Thanks for the tip on the soldering iron. Should've thought of that.

Originally Posted by DenisLM

No need for red loctite anywhere. Blue do the job just fine.
Also looks like you are using the HPI spider gears. Be careful because they are brittle and break instead wear out. I broke two of those in less than two races...

Good to know. I didn't think I was going to remove that locker ever, but...
and Yes, they are HPI spider gears. I didn't realize they came two sets per bag, which I thought was cheap. Now I know why. Did you find a better/stronger option for spider gears?

Although, this 20Million wt diff silicon is stiff! I have a feeling this will be very similar to running it locked. Only a real tough bind would it utilize the spider gears. I haven't ran it yet, since I'm still having issues with the one axle/knuckle in my post above.
I finally got the hub off lastnight, tore it to pieces to get it off , but found the outer smaller bearing was completely destroyed and left the outer bearing ring stuck in the knuckle. Was working it for a couple hours last night and gave up. Think I'll try to freeze it and heat it tonight and see if it'll release...
Then I can test this diff silicon.

[DenisLM]

Originally Posted by *Old*

LOL. Yeah man, I learned the hard way as well Thanks for the tip on the soldering iron. Should've thought of that.



Good to know. I didn't think I was going to remove that locker ever, but...
and Yes, they are HPI spider gears. I didn't realize they came two sets per bag, which I thought was cheap. Now I know why. Did you find a better/stronger option for spider gears?

Although, this 20Million wt diff silicon is stiff! I have a feeling this will be very similar to running it locked. Only a real tough bind would it utilize the spider gears. I haven't ran it yet, since I'm still having issues with the one axle/knuckle in my post above.
I finally got the hub off lastnight, tore it to pieces to get it off , but found the outer smaller bearing was completely destroyed and left the outer bearing ring stuck in the knuckle. Was working it for a couple hours last night and gave up. Think I'll try to freeze it and heat it tonight and see if it'll release...
Then I can test this diff silicon.

I use Axial spider gears and it work great. I run open front and rear diffs in my yeti with 1mil wt and is far away from locked but works great for my objectives (U4)