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Thread: My IFS Bomber Build

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Old 03-22-2017, 07:28 PM   #141
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

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Thank you Sir! I just put an order in for 2 of them.
Did you email them? I don't see an "add to cart" button.

NM, it shows they are sold out. They must remove the button when there's no stock. Guess I'm waiting. I'll run my Hot Racing cup anyway but wanted one in case I go with an open rear.

Last edited by SCREAMER; 03-22-2017 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 03-23-2017, 02:04 PM   #142
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

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Did you email them? I don't see an "add to cart" button.

NM, it shows they are sold out. They must remove the button when there's no stock. Guess I'm waiting. I'll run my Hot Racing cup anyway but wanted one in case I go with an open rear.
I think I got the last two. I haven't gotten any confirmation from them yet though. Hopefully they ship soon and hopefully they'll make more!!

The Lockedup RC front Yeti lockers should be coming in today so I'm hoping these will fit those, since they are meant to go into the stock diff cups. We'll see soon enough.
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:53 PM   #143
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Searching for a better locker option than the Axial, I recently discovered LockedUp RC offers one for the Yeti front. I'm currently using their FI spool in the rear which are just solid, so figured you can't go wrong here.

They are much different than the Axial Yeti front locker b/c they require you use the diff carrier. Now I'm not a fan of plastic in this area, but I learned from Screamer that HR makes an aluminum diff carrier so I'm thinking this would be a perfect combination.

Here is the LockedUp RC "lunch box" locker for the Yeti/Exo. They come in two halves.



When all installed they will connect together like this inside the diff carrier




I have some concerns with the Axial Yeti front axles surviving with a locker, so I'm staying with Dlux here. They're just way beefier compared to the Axial. If you go with Dlux, you need to get the output shaft for "Open diff", which are $10 more than if you got the version for Axial locker. Dlux output shafts are made of Ti.




I also want to point out a discovery here. I mentioned in prior post the the Axial Eclips Part # AXA1393, do not snap onto the output shafts. They just slip on, which makes me believe they can easily slip off Even using them on Axial AX30381 diff output shaft, it's still a loose fit.

So the Traxxas XD ring mod I mentioned on post # 109, the Traxxas part #2362, includes the same size E clips as the Axial AXA1393. I figure I just try them to see if they will snap on and lo and behold they do!!

Below, the Eclip on the Left is Axial. The right is Traxxas. Can't tell the difference, but the Traxxas will snap on and hold like the way it's supposed to be.

Edit - Actually, as I'm looking at the two again, I'm noticing the "ears" on the Traxxas Eclips are a tad larger than the Axial, which is why it's clamping better.




So anyway, Here is the FI lunchbox in the stock Axial plastic carrier. It slips in easily, so there is some play which I think will eventually cause some issues to the plastic carrier with the power I'm running.






So here it is with the HR diff carrier Part # AEX11C01

You need to use some elbow grease to get it in here. The fit is so tight, there is absolutely zero play. I lubed it with some WD40 and had to pound it in with a brass punch. I don't think I'll ever get this out and I mean that. I wanted to note I did put an O-ring inside the hole. Probably not necessary, but doesn't hurt.









Now when I put the other half on, it does slip on a bit easier. You'll still need to use some muscle to get it in and pull it off, but no tools are required to install or remove the half with the diff gear which is good, so you can still use the diff gear elsewhere if/when necessary.




A few post up, DenisLM open my eyes to a GCM diff carrier and gbean was kind enough to post a link where to order it. Thanks guys

I wanted to let yall know that the LockedUp RC Lunchbox will not fit in the GCM diff carrier. However, my plans for it is to use it in the B2B to test it running open front and rear to see how that handles at high speeds.




The GCM carriers includes two shims they require you to use and also a screw shaft so you can fill up your diff with oil without taking the whole thing apart. Genious





Last edited by *Old*; 03-27-2017 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:12 AM   #144
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

Lots of great info here, thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:24 PM   #145
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

Old, I wanted to ask if you used a gasket on the hot racing housing with the lunch box locker and if you had a chance to check gear mesh. My thinking is no gasket will make gear mesh tighter and using a gasket will make it more loose.
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Old 03-29-2017, 10:28 AM   #146
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Old, I wanted to ask if you used a gasket on the hot racing housing with the lunch box locker and if you had a chance to check gear mesh. My thinking is no gasket will make gear mesh tighter and using a gasket will make it more loose.
I didn't use a gasket. I saved those for the open diff ones since those require the better sealing.

I didn't put it in yet as I'm still messing around with the open diff, but I can try and put it in within the next few days and post results.

But as I'm thinking, it shouldn't be an issue as the diff gear to pinion positioning isn't be affected by the carrier positioning.
Now maybe the bearing on the carrier end will be too close in and not sit flush in the bulkhead or carrier though.
Thanks for bringing this to light, I'm really curious now and feeling anxious to find out!
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:08 AM   #147
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

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Old, I wanted to ask if you used a gasket on the hot racing housing with the lunch box locker and if you had a chance to check gear mesh. My thinking is no gasket will make gear mesh tighter and using a gasket will make it more loose.
Hey Screamer,

You were right about not using the gasket will cause some gear mesh issues.
If you don't have the gasket, you can use some shims on the outer bearing side to keep the diff gear from moving side to side, but much easier to just use the gasket if you have it. You will need to trim the gasket a little to be able to E-clip the locker in place.


Here is the locker/HR diff carrier installed with no gasket. You can see the shims I used on the right, just inside the bearing. I used 12x15 and used 3 - .2 shims.




So some pointers putting this together with the gasket.

On the Diff carrier and Diff gear, you'll want to use the O-rings on both side to keep the output shaft from sliding in and out. When the shaft is Eclipped in place, the Orings is like a spacer that doesn't allow the shaft the move in and out.






However, when using the O-rings and gasket, it the shaft cannot slide all the way through the locker to clip it in place.
in the pic below, you'll see the shaft is just barely peaking out of the locker.



So I cut the gasket a little, where the locker would sit to help lower it.



Then I used a little clamp to squeez the locker down as far as it could go and then I slipped the Eclip in place.



Make sure the notches in the locker and the holes in the gasket are all lined up with the diff, b/c you can't spin it in position b/c it's so tight now.




You can see the O-ring on the other side is like squeezing out too. Real tight





Fits perfect. No play.



Btw, You can install this without the O-ring outside the diff ring, and it will go in easy, even with the gasket. You'll just have a little play with the shaft. Probably not a big deal, but I'm anal about that.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:20 PM   #148
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

Bumping this because marvelous thread.

One question; do you plan to add a front stabilizer/front sway bar? How would you approach this? Very inspiring - I will have to reference this theard as a guide to making my own some day.
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Old 05-03-2017, 01:59 PM   #149
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Bumping this because marvelous thread.

One question; do you plan to add a front stabilizer/front sway bar? How would you approach this? Very inspiring - I will have to reference this theard as a guide to making my own some day.
Thanks Man, I appreciate. The B1B is undergoing some changes to improve it's crawling capabilities, while hopefully keeping it's good high speed handling.
I will post when done.

I actually thought about putting a front sway bar on and removing the rear, thinking it may possibly improve high speed handling and slow crawl rear articulation, but have not tried it yet, b/c honestly, with the VP Anti Rock Sway, it does allow pretty good rear flex.

But if I did run a front sway, I would run the one from Axial , since it's cheap and simple.
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:17 PM   #150
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So my daughter is now the proud owner of the B1B.
In my mind, the B1B is pretty much completely built, however, she wanted to tinker with it, so I had her take it apart to clean, grease the gears, etc.
But since DMG came out with the new B1B Version 2 kit, I figure I could make it a fun project for her to swap it over to the new kit. Plus I'm just curious if there were any performance differences to using the smooth high clearance plate it comes with.

The benefits I'm hoping for are:

- Higher Clearance, to help with crawling
- Lower mounted tranny, since it doesn't require the use of the tranny
adapter plate.

All good enough reasons for us to do this. Jerry was kind enough to allow me to purchase only the new skid and front mount plate. But doing this would require me to custom fab the front plate to make it fit my B1B.

Here is the new Skid and Plate.





The plate does not sit flush onto the skid, but it's beveled, so I don't see this being a problem.









Here is the new skid plate under the Bomber. You can see how flat and smooth it is. Feels very slick, which hopefully will slide over rocks, etc easily. This plate was pre-drilled to use with the Wraith style tranny. DMG can offer this for use with the Bomber style tranny as well.




Nice flat belly...just how I like it.




The skid plate is pre-drilled for two screws on each side. I decided to drill an for an extra screw to the shock mount to close the gap, just like how the stock Bomber skid is mounted.





We go and mount on the IFS plate and then noticed it's way too long
The front shock mounts are well passed the mounting holes on the Bomber cage.




Under the skid, you can see how far the plate extends pass the mounting hole.




Compared it to the original B1B plate




Contacted Jerry and he said he wasn't sure how my B1B was setup, so he sent a longer plate for me to cut and install. No problem.
My guess is, if you get the complete kit, yours will come cut to size?



So here is the plate cut to size. I didn't have any countersink drill bits for metal and tried one I had for wood and was shocked to see it drilled through. I accidently drilled too deep, but still works.
Also went ahead and made a mount for my receiver box to mount in front of the gas tank, and a mount for the MMX ESC.




Comparison with the original B1B




The new skid does add some weight. 3.5oz compared to 2.3oz.




Last edited by *Old*; 05-16-2017 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:39 PM   #151
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

Mounting on the JEC trailing arm, I noticed the new skid plate mount did not have a large enough gap to allow the TA to move freely in all directions.
Usually, it would lay flat.




Rather than extending the Rod end out further, I decided to just clearance the mounts a little to make it fit and move freely.





So ofcourse the Traxxass Revo driveshaft will no longer fit b/c of the larger link mount, so I change use Traxxas TMax Shaft which just fits.





Decided to switch my shock springs to use the Pro-Line Power stroke springs. Loved how these performed on the B2B.
Running the yellow top spring and red (stiffest) bottom spring.








Moved the electronics box to the rear, just in front of the gas tank. Did not like where I had it before, since it was protruding out a bit making the Lexan door side not sit flush.





Love how flat that belly pan is.






New total weight, no battery.








Very surprised to see it could only flex at 4.25" max. I'm thinking I didn't clearance enough on the trailing arm mount, so it's binding a little.




Last edited by *Old*; 05-16-2017 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 01:07 PM   #152
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

Tale of the Tape:

Static Height.

B1B Version 1:


Skid
2" clearance

IFS Plate
2 3/8" at the highest part (it's curved)
or 2" at the lowest


B2B Version 2:


Skid
2 3/8" Clearance.


IFS Plate

2 1/8" Clearance



Version 1



Version 2


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Old 05-15-2017, 01:34 PM   #153
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Also changed out the VP Sway bar to their new Version 2 as well.

Was having difficulty keeping the screw tight on the version one. Didn't realize they made updates to it since I didn't see info on this posted anywhere, figure I post the differences here:


The main difference is the set screw goes from 3mm to 4mm on the new (new on right).




To accomodate the larger set screw, the Swaybar arm is also thicker.
Also, the old version, you had to use set screw on both sides (2 per arm), while the new version, only 1 per arm




And lastly, the new version does not use that extra brass piece on the end.




It's definately an improvement over version, however mine did loosen a little, on the initial test run, but after tightening it, it hasn't loosen yet on a couple runs since.



And the next mod on the list is shortening the wheel base with the Twin Hammer Length Trailing arm.

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Old 05-16-2017, 09:52 PM   #154
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Alright, so I contacted JEC Racing to build me a set of Twin Hammers length T/As. The B1B currently uses the Wraith length T/As.
Because of the success I experienced with the super short wheel base of the B2B, I wanted to see if I could get this B1B to crawl better, along with a tighter turning radius with a shorter WB - all without losing it's high speed capability.



I'm sure most here are already familiar with the JEC T/As, but incase some aren't, here is what sets their T/As apart from the competition - recessed set screw, which allows the Rod ends to sit inside, minimizing damage to it.





Here is the set screw they use. I don't know what diameter it is, but I used the 3mm driver to tighten it. But those don't look like 3mm threads.





The TW T/A up top, and the Wraith length below. It's about 1" shorter





I'm using VP Wraith length upper links. I originally had Jato Rod ends on the axle side, but with the shorter T/A, I'm not using the Revo Rod ends. It's almost perfect. The pinion is pointed right at the Tranny...maybe a tad too high..??
I also flipped the upper links b/c it was bumping into my electronic box mount.







Have to cut off about that much on the driveshaft.





Just out of curiosity, I wanted to see how this thing articulate without the sway bar on....Wow!! 6 7/8" of Flex!!
I realized it's not the end all be all, but didn't realize it was capable of it.





New WB = 14" even.
IMO, this WB looks better on the Bomber.





New weight - 7lbs 12.9oz - no battery.

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Old 05-16-2017, 10:01 PM   #155
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Alright yall, I'm wondering if any of you suspension experts can figure this one out.

So I ran the new WB length B1B in my grass field back yard without the Sway bar connected, just to see if it's necessary.
Just so you know, before I made this mod, when I full throttle the B1B, the torque twist was a little crazy, even with the sway bar. You can see the passenger side front tire lift.

However, today, I did not experience any TTwist with NO sway bar..??
I was scratching my head. It actually cornered pretty well too. Some body lean, but not terrible.

So here is what I changed and could it really be possible not to experience TT with a trailing arm setup?

- Decreased WB from 14 5/8" to 14"
- Flipped the upper rear links and shortened them to fit
- Rear shocks mounted closer to rear axle (b/c of shorter WB) and slightly more upright.
- Front shock springs changed to Pro-line Yellow top and red bottom (from Gmade Stiff Red)
- Lowered Tranny/motor, since now not using tranny adapter.

That's all I can think of. Can those changes really eliminate TT?
I obviously need to run this on some real trails to see.
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:19 PM   #156
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

The combination of shorter trailing arms and moving the shocks closer to the axle did it for you. When I first dropped to Twin Hammers length arms I found the rear was way to stiff with my anti sway installed. Took it off and got the same results you did. The Yeti length/stock Bomber length arms most definitely need an anti sway bar but the Twin Hammers length are fine without it. Just another great reason to ditch those awful stockers. Axial was just saving money where they could by going to the parts bin here and there.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:23 AM   #157
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

JEC Racing uses 8-32 grub screws for his TA.
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:24 AM   #158
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The combination of shorter trailing arms and moving the shocks closer to the axle did it for you. When I first dropped to Twin Hammers length arms I found the rear was way to stiff with my anti sway installed. Took it off and got the same results you did. The Yeti length/stock Bomber length arms most definitely need an anti sway bar but the Twin Hammers length are fine without it. Just another great reason to ditch those awful stockers. Axial was just saving money where they could by going to the parts bin here and there.
Man, what a revelation! I didn't think it was possible to minimize the TT to the point that I don't really notice it on a rig with TAs. Thank you for the education/explanation. Can't wait to test this thing on the trails...I mean, have my daughter test it

I believe this simple mod is a game changer for the B1B!

And thanks Yoda for the info! Much appreciated!

Last edited by *Old*; 05-17-2017 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:17 AM   #159
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Default Re: My IFS Bomber Build

how are you liking the HR open diff vs the locked front?
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:31 AM   #160
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how are you liking the HR open diff vs the locked front?

I really like the open diff when I'm doing high speed runs. A locked front can't make corners like an open can.

But for crawling purposes, it's OK, but I'm not sure I recommend it if that is your forte. I have the Racers Edge Diff Putty on order that I'm going to try with it before switching back to fully locked. I hear those will really lock this up and only allowing movement when really bounded up to save the front end. I'll report back after I get those in.

But in short, it really depends on your purpose.

For me, I wish the 20M wt Diffy putty had a little more grab, so if the Racers edge can provide that, I'll be sticking with the open diff. If not, back to locked, since I do more trail than open high speed.
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