The French Canadian Bomber (First-time Build)

[NWKENT]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Little update tonight.
I went ahead and built the 2 shocks i have enough parts for. Went alot better than i thought but i have no clue if they are filled correctly.
I filled them to the brim with the shaft up top. If i tried with the shaft at the bottom, it was too much pressure and wouldn't cycle when closed.
Again it's my first time so i could be wrong.

I went for the variable rate, slower compression and faster rebound. I used the stock kit oil and green slime on all the o-rings.



Back to waiting for the delivery truck...

Fill the shock, (fully extended) to about 1/8 from the top of the body, then cycle slowly, being careful not to spell out the oil, once the air bubbles settle, then with shock fully compressed, add oil (if needed) to just submerging the valve/orfice washer..this allows air space, allowing the shock to fully compress, screw on the shock cap while fully compressed, avoiding oil from escaping..great that you used the "Green Slim"..I NEVER build a shock without it..

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[Jboucher]

They might be too full then. I will see how they perform but they dont leak at least.

If I ever have to replace them, I will get traxxas GTR xx-long shocks. They seems highly recommended on the web.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Little update tonight.
I went ahead and built the 2 shocks i have enough parts for. Went alot better than i thought but i have no clue if they are filled correctly.
I filled them to the brim with the shaft up top. If i tried with the shaft at the bottom, it was too much pressure and wouldn't cycle when closed.
Again it's my first time so i could be wrong.

I went for the variable rate, slower compression and faster rebound. I used the stock kit oil and green slime on all the o-rings.



Back to waiting for the delivery truck...

I don't remember those options when building the shocks in my Bomber kit.

[Jboucher]

It's in the last few pages. They also explain gearing calculations and oil weight.

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[Jboucher]

Still waiting on the missing Axial Shock parts but i received the Holmes Hobbies SHV500v2 servo.

It's a very impressive part, all metal casing, long cables, smooth operation and no need for a BEC !
I had my local shop solder some JST connectors to my ESC XT60 plug since my soldering skills are very limited.
Now i have 1 plug for the SVH500 servo and 1 plug for my front lights.



I decided to go for both front and rear lights. With the winter in Québec, it's dark outside at 5PM so if i want to use the truck at all, i need to see around it.
With the current setup, i'll be able to power the front from the main 3s battery and the rear from the receiver.

While i wait for yet more packages through the mail and some nice weather to paint, i worked a bit on Tires / Wheels.

I used the tire lettering pen from my Mustang to paint the sidewalls. Came out great but might require a second coat.


I started to tape the wheel and prep them for paint. I will try to make the outer ring red, keeping the center black and use stainless screws for the wheel hub to make it look like chrome wheel nuts.

[Jboucher]

I have a question about the kit beadlock wheels, Hopefully someone can help.

I put the center ring in the tire then the inner and outer parts.
Is it supposed to click or hold together at that stage?
Or is it really the screws that will hold it?

It's popping out and I can barely line up the breather holes. Have to squeeze the 2 halves really tight to even start the screws.

I triple checked, no foam in between, no real issue with the wheel, they fit perfectly outside the tires.

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[Mikeinsocal]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

I have a question about the kit beadlock wheels, Hopefully someone can help.

I put the center ring in the tire then the inner and outer parts.
Is it supposed to click or hold together at that stage?
Or is it really the screws that will hold it?

It's popping out and I can barely line up the breather holes. Have to squeeze the 2 halves really tight to even start the screws.

I triple checked, no foam in between, no real issue with the wheel, they fit perfectly outside the tires.

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Ya that's how they go together. I did exactly as you and put those foams in the kit tires with kit wheels. First I would say to make sure you have the inner ring facing the right way. There is a front side and back side or outer and inner. Which ever you call the side of the tire that is on the "outside" when on the vehicle. If you try to assemble a wheel without a tire you will see what I mean, it will only lock down when everything is orientated correctly. Once you are sure you are putting the wheel together right then you will have to do some squeezing while you get the screws started. Use a star pattern to tighten them down once they are all started. A clamp or two can be your friend to keep it all in place while assembling. Hope this isn't too confusing and helps.

Edit: after rereading your post I see that you have test fit the wheels already so you are on the right track.

[Jboucher]

Cool thx
It seems like a lot of pressure for plastic parts... Guess they are stronger than they look.

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[Brake Weight]

I start one and then one directly across from it, both just a couple of threads. If everything looks kosher I'll do them all in a few threads and start pattern them down. Take care and watch that the bead of the tire seats right before you start the star pattern. It's a little anal retentive, but I'll tighten them down just like I'd do lugs on a vehicle.

[Jboucher]

Big update with my first ever paint job.
I will highlight my newbie mistakes so others can hopefully learn from them...

Wheel preparation + Helmets + Fuel cell


First mistake : I didn't use a primer so going from the black plastic to Red was let's say PAINFUL

6 or 7 coats of Italian Red TS-8 later...



Little detailing with a Silver Sharpie and a couple of Oil paint pens (sharpie)



Second mistake : Sharpie ink pens and TS spray don't mix well for large areas. The ink ate some of the TS paint on the fuel cell. At least it's under it so it won't matter much.
It worked fine for the bolts on the wheels.

Third mistake : Since the TS paint is gloss when it's dry, i didn't use any clear coat... My friend who's heavily into painting Warhammer and other fantasy models kinda laughed and made me realize that the paint job won,t last long.
Guess i will have to get over all the chips and scratches...

It does looks fantastic right now and i will enjoy it while it lasts


Question for the experts, since it's my first set of beadlocks ever, can you guys tell me if this wheel looks ok ?
I have no idea if the bead is set properly and the screws can still turn but the wheel is completly set so i guess i have to stop before i strip the threads.


Current build status :
-Vanquish SLW Hubs have arrived with Axial rubber shock bushings.
-Front Lights and KOH rear lights are in the mail with HeyOK controllers, pretty excited.
-Still waiting on the replacement shock part tree from Axial...
-Interior and body are being prepared for paint this week-end.

Thank you

[NWKENT]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Big update with my first ever paint job.
I will highlight my newbie mistakes so others can hopefully learn from them...

Wheel preparation + Helmets + Fuel cell


First mistake : I didn't use a primer so going from the black plastic to Red was let's say PAINFUL

6 or 7 coats of Italian Red TS-8 later...



Little detailing with a Silver Sharpie and a couple of Oil paint pens (sharpie)



Second mistake : Sharpie ink pens and TS spray don't mix well for large areas. The ink ate some of the TS paint on the fuel cell. At least it's under it so it won't matter much.
It worked fine for the bolts on the wheels.

Third mistake : Since the TS paint is gloss when it's dry, i didn't use any clear coat... My friend who's heavily into painting Warhammer and other fantasy models kinda laughed and made me realize that the paint job won,t last long.
Guess i will have to get over all the chips and scratches...

It does looks fantastic right now and i will enjoy it while it lasts


Question for the experts, since it's my first set of beadlocks ever, can you guys tell me if this wheel looks ok ?
I have no idea if the bead is set properly and the screws can still turn but the wheel is completly set so i guess i have to stop before i strip the threads.


Current build status :
-Vanquish SLW Hubs have arrived with Axial rubber shock bushings.
-Front Lights and KOH rear lights are in the mail with HeyOK controllers, pretty excited.
-Still waiting on the replacement shock part tree from Axial...
-Interior and body are being prepared for paint this week-end.

Thank you

All looks great..I have painted 5+ full sets of six of those wheels, including spare..thats a large protect you have acomplished, just the wheels and tires..

Here are a few of my wheel bead ring painting prodject, the Yeti RR is Flouresent, Red RH side, LH is Orange..Flouresent colors are double+ the effort, because White must go down first with the flouresent colors..

Sorry wouldnt allow me to upload more photos.. ;(

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[Jboucher]

Do you think the beadlock is installed properly on my last 2 pictures?

Im kinda hesitant to mount the other 3 wheels tonight.

I will tinker on the Yeti Jr until the weather is OK for painting (damn rain this week...).

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[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Do you think the beadlock is installed properly on my last 2 pictures?

Im kinda hesitant to mount the other 3 wheels tonight.

I will tinker on the Yeti Jr until the weather is OK for painting (damn rain this week...).

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It's not seated properly. But it's close, though.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

It's not seated properly. But it's close, though.

So it need to be more like the bottom of the first picture?
Almost no lip visible?
I tried and just can't get much better than that, almost like the foams are too big.

I'll give it another try. And I thought glue-on were more of a pain...

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[Jboucher]

I actually figured it out...
It's the opposite, in my first picture the bottom part is pinched out, preventing the ring from fully seating.

Should be fine now.

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[Brake Weight]

I've got a Yeti 380 with those tires and style beadlocks. 3 or 4 looked the same, too. I know when I put them on they weren't like that. But it goes a little faster than an average Bomber.


These have a 'bead protector' like a 1:1 tire which makes it easier to get right by tugging out until it's even all the way around.

[Jboucher]

As with the axles early in the build, 3rd time is the charm, beadlocks conquered!
*images removes, they were WAY too big*

On a side note, I really like the gpm racing aluminium parts, I use them a lot on my Yeti Jr, so I'm tempted to add at least 1 part from them on my Bomber.

What do you guys think of the GPM Racing driveshaft?
https://www.gpmparts.com/axial-racin...-90075846.html

[Jboucher]

Finished the wheels last night so i decided to put the wheel hexes on and mount the wheels for fun.

First off the new vanquish SLW hubs. They should be stronger than the plastic hubs and i already have the stage 1 kit so might as well go all the way.
My Bomber will see a lot more flat terrain than rocks and trails so i went with wider hubs over the stock kit part to increase stability.



Next up the wheel hexes. Whoever invented the wheel hex with a little pin is both a genius and a damn masochist... Maybe i'm clumsy and it was late but i had so much trouble putting those on. The pin kept dropping and then the wheel hub would pull the hex out.
In the end i put locktite on the screw and made it so tight i thought i would break the clamping hex.


Funny sidenote :
Vanquish makes some of the best parts in the RC world but they also mix and match METRIC and IMPERIAL screws...
The stage 1 kit was all metric 2mm and 1.5mm screws but oh surprise the wheel hex and wheel hubs are imperial 4-40.
I only bought a set of metric screwdrivers :(
I had to reach for my actual real car toolbox and i was lucky to find a 3/32 hex key.

Quick mock up of the build in it's current state :

[JatoTheRipper]

You did an awesome job painting that stuff. I'm especially impressed with the white lettering on the tires. It looks great - like it was done by the factory! When I try it the paint runs down the sides of the letters and it looks uneven.

Did you get your parts from Axial yet? It's sad how customer service doesn't care to quickly correct their mistake.

[Jboucher]

For the tires, go to an auto part store and buy a real tire lettering pen. Then you just gently brush the surface of the raised letters.
I used the pen from my Mustang. They lettering usually lasts all summer on my car and I wash it weekly.

As far as axial goes, nope I'm still missing my shock part tree...

I was looking at the cage parts last night and the battery holding door is twisted. I am not calling axial only to have another 2 weeks+ of waiting.

I ordered the GPM Racing battery door.

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