Look what i got!! Bens build

[brapskidoo]

The day has come where I got my RR10 Bomber! I am very excited to get this build started. Im going to keep posting my build as I go and updating info even though its just another build, I like how everyones is unique to them and maby I can receive some build tips as well as hand some out. Im not doing any mods to begin with as I am going to replace and upgrade parts as I go. I honestly dont see the point in upgrading a parts that might not even break unless your into serious competiton.

I live in the middle of a forest with a giant hill in my backyard so my goal is to set this truck up more for trails. So far ive purchased a savox sg1283 servo and a rcscrewz stainless steel screw kit. As im going along ill list my likes and gripes about the kit and other items im using. I hope I got this photobucket thing figured out anyways enjoy

If the images arent loading please let me know

Heres the servo I chose to go with. Its rated somewhere around 450oz of torque and is only a 6v servo. I like how the entire case in metal for the added durability. I was lucky enough to find a spare protek arm kicking around I figured id mount up. Seeing as theres no servo saver (and I dont plan on adding one) ive decided to keep the steering knuckles stock to have some sort of give point in the steering linkage. Id rather replace a $4 plastic knuckle over a $145 servo any day.

There we go I think I got it! For a second there I thought this thread was gona turn into Ben the dumba$$

[altd896]

Pics aren't working, even though your probably doing it right.
Hate to say it but give up on photo bucket, they don't let you link out pics unless you give them your left arm, right kidney & 2 pints of blood.

[Jboucher]

IMGUR !
It's what i use in my build thread and it's great so far. You can choose the size and it's super simple with the BBCode format already setup for forums.

[brapskidoo]

OK sorry about that guys. I went through the "posting pics for dummies" thread and was sure I was doing it right. Not sure if theres a different procedure for using a mac or not but ill give IMAGUR a try

[Jboucher]

You need to copy and paste the link under the name BBCode.
It has brackets with img on both ends :

[IMG.picture.IMG]

Just click on a photo in your imgur list and you will see the links on the right.

Dont forget to pick a size at the bottom, at least large thumbnails.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[brapskidoo]

OK now to get this build back on track. Heres is a pic of the screw kit and servo ill be using





So heres what you get with bag A (minus screws). I have to say that the parts quality is excellent! I am however a little disappointed with the bearing quality. I was expecting higher grade bearings that were MUCH bigger. I guess only time will tell.



Now here is a pic of the diff being assembled. I was shocked to see 2mm screws used where all the power is being layed down. I guess thats why we have slipper clutches



I found the first oops in the manual. Nothing major but it says to use a 3x10mm caphead screw for the rear lockouts but, if you do that your going to bind with the driveshaft. Heres a pic, hard to see unless you zoom in. I found another mistake in the manual, Ill try to find it and post a pic



I noticed that the ss caphead screws have a slightly larger head than the axial screws. You can see it here especially when you zoom in. Fills a little more room making it more secure or at least I like to think so



Heres the front and rear axials all done up and yes im aware the servo arm isnt connected to the linkage. So far im only missing 2 stainless steel screws since I purcahsed a yeti kit but thanks to Keith at rcscrewz he hooked me up a deal, Thanks Keith! Now one thing to note if you are new to building kits, I cant stress enough about applying EVEN TORQUE to ALL of the screws and hardware. This will insure proper alignment in your drivetrain and also reduce the chance of stripping



I have to say that this is one of the best innovations in the RC world that I have seen in a LONG time. You got to enjoy the little things and this couldnt be any simpler, just some adhesive on the backside of the slipper pads. I can honestly say ive never seen that before. Im assuming the reason they dont do that on most vehicles is so you can flip them when worn and there less of a pin to remove.

[altd896]

Tip #1 - roll that servo over 180 so the arm is on the rhs & run the drag link to the lhs knuckle. Stops the arm & drag link rod end hitting the diff cover.

Tip #2 - should have bought some steel spools & tossed the stock plastic cup & locker. Start saving for a pair, theres a few to choose from Incision, Locked-Up, HotRacing

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by altd896

Tip #1 - roll that servo over 180 so the arm is on the rhs & run the drag link to the lhs knuckle. Stops the arm & drag link rod end hitting the diff cover.

Tip #2 - should have bought some steel spools & tossed the stock plastic cup & locker. Start saving for a pair, theres a few to choose from Incision, Locked-Up, HotRacing

Locked up RC is what I used, very nice little locker.

For the servo, mine dosent seem to hit, is it required or just in case?
It's the first time I hear it.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Locked up RC is what I used, very nice little locker.

For the servo, mine dosent seem to hit, is it required or just in case?
It's the first time I hear it.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

It's going to depend on the servo and the arm. I turned my servo mount around and mounted my servo from the back side, and the arm still doesn't hit the diff case.

[brapskidoo]

Thanks for the info. As of now im not having troubles with hitting the diff case, the back nut is hitting the servo case not allowing me to get full throw. Im just gona play with some shims because id like to continue using that servo arm

On to bag C to do the transmission. I was surprised at the scale detail in the casing. I picked up a silver sharpie to colour in some faux bolts. Be sure to compress the spring a few times to break it in



As you can see in the next picture, when connecting the transfer case you have to poke one of the shafts into an idler gear. It was a little pit of a pain and took a bit coaxing to get set with the tap of a wrench. If you zoom in you'll see what I mean



For all of my rc builds I always use Lucas Synthetic Red N Tacky grease. Works very well on driveline components. I also have been adding a bit of proline 5000wt diff fluid to all of the screw threads for easy installation and to avoid stripping



Tranny is complete! Still deciding on a motor and esc but Im really leaning towards the castle. I cant justify spending what tekin wants



On to bag D now. This is the center driveline and shock bag. Cant belive the detail and quality on the King suspension. By far the best shocks ive seen included in any kit.

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by brapskidoo

On to bag C to do the transmission. I was surprised at the scale detail in the casing. I picked up a silver sharpie to colour in some faux bolts. Be sure to compress the spring a few times to break it in



As you can see in the next picture, when connecting the transfer case you have to poke one of the shafts into an idler gear. It was a little pit of a pain and took a bit coaxing to get set with the tap of a wrench. If you zoom in you'll see what I mean



For all of my rc builds I always use Lucas Synthetic Red N Tacky grease. Works very well on driveline components. I also have been adding a bit of proline 5000wt diff fluid to all of the screw threads for easy installation and to avoid stripping



Tranny is complete! Still deciding on a motor and esc but Im really leaning towards the castle. I cant justify spending what tekin wants



On to bag D now. This is the center driveline and shock bag. Cant belive the detail and quality on the King suspension. By far the best shocks ive seen included in any kit.

We're making the same progress, I just finished the tranny with the motor.
I will post pictures in my thread soon.

The shocks kinda terrify me. First time building those in my life and I dont know what to expect.

Nice build!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by brapskidoo

Thanks for the info. As of now im not having troubles with hitting the diff case, the back nut is hitting the servo case not allowing me to get full throw. Im just gona play with some shims because id like to continue using that servo arm

run the screw in from the back and put the nut on the front.

[brapskidoo]

Now why didnt I think of that... Heres a pic of the shocks all complete. I went with the stock setup, 2 hole piston 30wt oil. I was gona go with 3 hole and 32.5wt but figured id give the stock setup a shot. Tomorow is going to be paint day. Bought some blue krylon fusion paint and want to do the roll cage and rims.

[NitroDarwin]

In the tuning section of the manual there is instructions on how to use the optional dual rate pistions(gives different travel rate for in and out)

[JatoTheRipper]

Good build so far. You'll love the Bomber!

FYI - a tip for next build is that Chapstick works as a lube to aid threading screws into plastic as well.

For the electronics get the Castle Mamba X and either a Tekin ROC412 or Holmes Puller Pro or the Brood equivalent. That ESC is a must in the BOMBER IMHO and you should pair it with a torque monster motor.

[brapskidoo]

Originally Posted by NitroDarwin

In the tuning section of the manual there is instructions on how to use the optional dual rate pistions(gives different travel rate for in and out)

Ya I had a look at it. Not sure if theres really much of a benefit but im gona have to give it a try eventually. Are people getting good results with the dual rate?

Heres a teaser of how the paints going. Did a little detailing with a silver sharpie. Hope to have it all complete today and ill give an update after dinner.



I got one of the wheels finished up and cant belive how well it turned out! Im thinking on colouring in the BF Goodrich writing on the tire.



Heres my parts tree. Up here in Canada parts do grow on trees



Fuel cell is all painted. Only did one coat to make it look a little worn. Im gona add some nitro fuel tubing to give more realism.



Got all the lexan pieces too. Added some decals and carbon wrap to make it a bit different. I dont know if it was just me but i had a bit of difficulty removing the clear plastic film.

[Jim85IROC]

I had problems with the plastic film too. The film came off, but some glue layer seemed to stay, and I had to rub it off.

[brapskidoo]

Thats exactly what was happening to me. Heres a picture of the rest of the body panels. They really turned out well and I like the look of the carbon wrap to make it stand out some. I painted the interior panel black as well figuring there would be decals for the little driver dudes. The only stickers you get for them are the seatbelts. They look kind of silly all black. I did paint the googles with sharpie to make it look a little better but for anyone else building one, I suggest you mask of there hands and shirt a different colour. Ill post a pic tomorow of how they look

[Jboucher]

Someone on another thread said to paint black under and then use the plastic film over the drivers as a mask to cut them out and paint them.

I'll try that and give them a white suit with a couple of Brown wash to look dirty and red gloves/helmets

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[brapskidoo]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Someone on another thread said to paint black under and then use the plastic film over the drivers as a mask to cut them out and paint them.

I'll try that and give them a white suit with a couple of Brown wash to look dirty and red gloves/helmets

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Thats a great idea! Id love to give the a white and red vintage Honda suit. It was funny to see how well my paint matched my decals. I thought the kit only came with the orange ones and I was at canadian tire in a hurry and just grabbed one of the first plastic paints i saw. Lucky me i guess