quick questions

[Lightning Bomber]

ok couple of questions

1. are aluminum axles necessary or are beef tubes better
2. is it a smart decision to go to a spool instead of axials locking differential in the bomber
3. is it a smart investment for HD gears from like vanquish
4. does the bomber really need a sway-bar with stock kit shocks

[Jboucher]

If im not mistaken, the kit comes with HD gears.

I went with beeftubes + FI Spools to make sure I wouldnt have to worry about the axles anytime soon.
They also add weight down low to help the CoG.

It's a very good alternative to the aluminium housings and you can spend more money on links, wheels or the electronics.

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[Ninomaniac]

4. Shock brand has nothing to do with sway bars.

[durok]

If you have the kit, it definitely comes with HD differential gears already.

Plastic axles hang up less when crawling, beef tubes add strength and weight in just the right spot.

Spools are a great idea, LockedUp F1's are excellent, as well as Holmes and Incision.

I use the ------ (edited wrong brand) Dlux Fab plastic OCP axle housings with the upsized pinion bearing, and SSD also has a plastic housing with the larger bearing - but with a centered pumpkin and only for the rear axle.

BTW - Boom Racing Kronic tubes are a cheaper alternative to the Beef Tube brand, I have a stainless steel set.

With those installed, Vanquish trusses & SSD diff covers - I am not worried at all about the strength of my plastic axle housings!

(lastly, for slow crawling - no swaybar is needed, some say it is even better without - but for any running at speed, install the swaybar.)

[Ninomaniac]

Xtra Speed tubes are even cheaper (RCmart, 10$ and free shipping).

[Jwalbiscut]

Sway bar helped mine stop flipping over every time it turn at speed.

[Lightning Bomber]

Originally Posted by durok

If you have the kit, it definitely comes with HD differential gears already.

Plastic axles hang up less when crawling, beef tubes add strength and weight in just the right spot.

Spools are a great idea, LockedUp F1's are excellent, as well as Holmes and Incision.

I use the LockedUp plastic OCP axle housings with the upsized pinion bearing, and SSD also has a plastic housing with the larger bearing - but with a centered pumpkin and only for the rear axle.

BTW - Boom Racing Kronic tubes are a cheaper alternative to the Beef Tube brand, I have a stainless steel set.

With those installed, Vanquish trusses & SSD diff covers - I am not worried at all about the strength of my plastic axle housings!

(lastly, for slow crawling - no swaybar is needed, some say it is even better without - but for any running at speed, install the swaybar.)

thank you what beef tubes, material wise, would you use
would it be smart to run beef tubes and scale brake weights or just beef tubes or just scale brake weights

[durok]

Either brass or stainless tubes, and while BeefTubes were (I believe) the original designer, they are way overpriced for simple tubes of metal - so whatever brand is the cheapest is best, in my opinion. I paid less than $30 for a full set of front and rear stainless Boom Racing Kronik axle tubes from AsiaTees. I don't think you need to add extra weights, but one nifty trick is if you get lockers for your differentials - get the Locked Up RC F1 "Heavyweight" spool for the front axle and the standard F1 spool for the rear.

[Jboucher]

Yeah I got brass tubes front and aluminium rear with Standard FI spools x2 and I think I will miss some weight on the back since I wont be using the spare tire.

Would you guys recommend weight in the fuel cell or hub weight?

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[Ninomaniac]

Fuel cell is too high.

[MasteroFlego]

I would get knuckle weights before I'd consider any weight that rotates. I've seen plenty of "brass knuckles" for the SCX10 II, but none for AR60 based rigs.

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[Motorider]

Originally Posted by MasteroFlego

I would get knuckle weights before I'd consider any weight that rotates. I've seen plenty of "brass knuckles" for the SCX10 II, but none for AR60 based rigs.

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I definitely would not use the heavyweight FI spool. Stick with the regular. Keep rotating mass as light as possible. The only place I would add weight is on the axle at the knuckles. Anywhere else is not helping you. So run the lightest drivetrain possible and tune with heavy knuckles.

Dlux makes the best knuckles on the planet for any rig. You can get them in brass or aluminum. Slugged to add or remove weight. You can have carbon, brass, or aluminum uppers and the same for the lowers. Best of luck on your project.

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[durok]

I'll back-pedal just a bit on the F1 "heavyweight" recommendation as I myself went with Holmes lockers (they're the lightest of all the aftermarket lockers/spools) but the important thing about rotating weight is that if it is kept close to the center is has much less negative effect than if it it is further away - for example, heavy hubs are better than weight on the outer rim... so if you HAVE to add it, add it to the right places. With these R/C vehicles some extra weight can make for a more realistic driving experience.

Extremely light vehicles tend to bounce rather than cycle through their suspension. If you're slow-crawling the weight can also be beneficial if kept low and centralized. Some weight can allow for more tire grip. However, running fast with heavy rotating mass can quickly wear out driveline parts. A lot depends on personal preferences... I'm not running in competitions, myself.

[Lightning Bomber]

Originally Posted by durok

If you have the kit, it definitely comes with HD differential gears already.

Plastic axles hang up less when crawling, beef tubes add strength and weight in just the right spot.

Spools are a great idea, LockedUp F1's are excellent, as well as Holmes and Incision.

I use the LockedUp plastic OCP axle housings with the upsized pinion bearing, and SSD also has a plastic housing with the larger bearing - but with a centered pumpkin and only for the rear axle.

BTW - Boom Racing Kronic tubes are a cheaper alternative to the Beef Tube brand, I have a stainless steel set.

With those installed, Vanquish trusses & SSD diff covers - I am not worried at all about the strength of my plastic axle housings!

(lastly, for slow crawling - no swaybar is needed, some say it is even better without - but for any running at speed, install the swaybar.)

Originally Posted by durok

Either brass or stainless tubes, and while BeefTubes were (I believe) the original designer, they are way overpriced for simple tubes of metal - so whatever brand is the cheapest is best, in my opinion. I paid less than $30 for a full set of front and rear stainless Boom Racing Kronik axle tubes from AsiaTees. I don't think you need to add extra weights, but one nifty trick is if you get lockers for your differentials - get the Locked Up RC F1 "Heavyweight" spool for the front axle and the standard F1 spool for the rear.

can you post a link to the locked up rc ocp axle, and the spool

[Jboucher]

"lockedup rc" in Google
Then look for bomber and ar60

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[altd896]

Twice in this thread there are mentions of LockedUp AR60 big bearing housings, (both without links)
Locked Up RC - Scale Performance Parts) have heaps of great stuff, lockers included but these housings must be really well hidden on thier site cos I sure as shit can't find them.

Can't help but think they really mean Dlux Fab, he's the primary one doing mod'd inner pinon bearings for AR60 housings that I've heard of

[durok]

LOLOLOLZ....................sheesh... I be flat busted on that, my bad.

Well, heck - at least I bought them!

[Jboucher]

Yeah lockedup rc makes a very good locker and shims for the ar60 axles.

Dlux fab makes the modified housings with bigger bearing and other nice parts including à sway bar kit.

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[durok]

OK, OK, OK, I got it. I have had extremely bad insomnia for 3 weeks. You can witness my postings to see that I have been up all night!

To be clear - I bought those housings from Dlux Fab on 11/14/2016. I just couldn't keep it straight in my head when I made the post.

Editing now...

[altd896]

Originally Posted by durok

OK, OK, OK, I got it. I have had extremely bad insomnia for 3 weeks. You can witness my postings to see that I have been up all night!

To be clear - I bought those housings from Dlux Fab on 11/14/2016. I just couldn't keep it straight in my head when I made the post.

Editing now...

lol it's all good.
I don't even look at posting time, I'm 14-16 hours ahead down here so don't even do the calc to see who's posting up late.

I was sure I knew who you meant, didn't want to confuse the newer guys is all.