Torque twist problem

[some87]

What are some things I can do to my bomber to get rid of torque twist? I wish I could flip the axles bit the skid and trans are in the way. I should mention that I took off the sway bar and flipped the diff gears to rotate the opposite way of stock. I put it back so maybe that might do something. I’m using it as a crawler so its I big issue I’m having.

[Jboucher]

If it's an RTR, get a sway bar

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[durok]

Originally Posted by some87

I should mention that I took off the sway bar and flipped the diff gears to rotate the opposite way of stock.

Originally Posted by Jboucher

If it's an RTR, get a sway bar

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He's got a sway bar already...

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by durok

He's got a sway bar already...

Yeah i should stop posting so late...

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[some87]

I put the sway bar back on it and put the diffs back to normal but it seems like the sway bar is a little stiff. I still need to get new wheels tires and get some weights on it so maybe that might help with the sway bar being so stiff. Got the truck second hand from someone that got it as a basher so it still needs a lot of work.

[Jboucher]

Which bar is it?
I think the vanquish antirock v2 is softer than the axial kit bar.
There is also the hot racing bars and the dlux fab.

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[Jim85IROC]

I'm using the sway bar that came with my Bomber kit and I have no torque twist when I use the truck. The axial sway bar (I believe it's their "medium" that comes with the kit?) is stiff enough that it completely eliminated all low speed torque twist. It also pretty much eliminated any articulation from the rear suspension, but there's more than enough articulation in the front suspension, and in my opinion, the lack of rear articulation keeps the truck a lot more stable in funky positions.

[MAC FAB]

I'd have to hunt it down but somebody made a trans (if I recall correctly) that had the front going the opposite direction so you'd have to flip the gears. That was supposed to help with the twist. Not sure how well it works, maybe just a gimmick. Sucks that you have to control it with the sway bar which in turn jacks up performance. Some of the scratch build TT guys 3 link it, connecting the uppers together so you only get as much twist as the heims will allow, reduces the torque twist. Just way harder on the links and ends. I don't know if there is any benefit over the sway on a crawler doing this. Hopefully Traxxas will offer another solid axle rig like the UDR, just smaller scale so we can pirate that rear axle. No torque twist.

[Jboucher]

I heard using the wraith transmission also helps.
You can buy an adapter plate from DMG.

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[thewildblue77]

Adding additional shocks helped me. I think it makes a difference with what power you're putting through it.

[some87]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Which bar is it?
I think the vanquish antirock v2 is softer than the axial kit bar.
There is also the hot racing bars and the dlux fab.

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It’s the soft one from axial.

[some87]

Only thing I can think of is moving the rear shocks onto the axle and mounting the top of the shock where the gas is mounted. I have seen one thing somewhere where someone did that.

[chipgibbs]

"TeamDC" RC makes a trans mission called "ATTS" Anti Torque Twist System. Looks very similar to the Axial SCX & Wraith trans except the outputs turn in opposite directions. It's cost is $99, I don't know how robust it is. Also, it's shipped from china.
They have a couple videos on YouTube showing an SCX10 driving forward & backing up on a floor with no twist.
I bought one but, have not received it yet.

[OhioSuperSport]

Try running under drive gear sets front and rear. Doing this takes away some of the torque needed to spin the driveline. You will lose some speed so you can go up a tooth on the pinion gear to make up for it.

[Derring-Do]

Wraith trans, underdrive rear, hot racing sway bar, thicker oil in the rear shocks. I've been adjusting the piano wire thickness and mounting lengths on the sway bar also.

I haven't tried this but I think I may. If you have a the HR or VQ sway bar, you can adjust the length of the parallel bars. I wonder if shortening one side will help.

[some87]

HAppy to report once you move the rear shocks to the axle and the mount on the fake gas tank the truck has no more problems with torque twist.

[thewildblue77]

Originally Posted by some87

HAppy to report once you move the rear shocks to the axle and the mount on the fake gas tank the truck has no more problems with torque twist.

Do you have any pics at all ?

[MAC FAB]

Originally Posted by some87

HAppy to report once you move the rear shocks to the axle and the mount on the fake gas tank the truck has no more problems with torque twist.

Requiring Yeti rear shocks or longer to keep performance on par, right? Otherwis you just cut your wheel travel in half.

[some87]

Originally Posted by thewildblue77

Do you have any pics at all ?

[some87]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Requiring Yeti rear shocks or longer to keep performance on par, right? Otherwis you just cut your wheel travel in half.

I’m just using the same shocks that came on the truck. The upper part of the shock isn’t using the stock mounting holes on the chassis. If you look at the fake gas tank on the back of the truck I’m using the 2 screws that are closest to the center of the chassis that hold the gas tank in. It’s pretty much just a wraith at that point.