Bomber setup questions

[Spence]

Hi guys, I just got my parts mania bomber sort of together I have:
-Axial universals
-Vanquish knuckles
-Hot racing spools front and rear
-Hot racing link mounts
-Sway bar installed
-wildboar driveshafts
-(awaiting beef tubes)
-(awaiting vanquish trailing arms)


I had semi beefed up ar60's so thats why I decided to do the build lol chassis up

I have the thing setup pretty low at the moment. The chassis came with a nice Boom racing rear shock mount kit. I am on traxxas 2wd front shocks and traxxas 2wd shocks on the rear. traxxas linear rate front springs up front, traxxas linear rate rear springs on the rear, 30wt oil.

Currently I'm on 2.2" knockoff vanquish beadlocks and some hyrax 2.2's.


What suspension setup (springs and oil) do you guys run to achieve stability at high speed?

I'm only running a titan 12t motor on 2s geared 12/64 *soon to get a castle mamba x scxt 3800kv sensored combo*

I know the stock proline foams are too soft in the sidewall department mostly causing the thing to flip, I am gonna get some crawler innovations single stages 2.2".



Thanks
-Spence

[Jboucher]

Mine is only a brushed bomber (550 21T on 3s) but I do trails and flat land speed runs.

I'm running Gmade XD diaphragm shocks, kit oil (30wt?) with hard front springs and medium rear springs.
They are built with traxxas xrings and green slime.
It's super smooth, bigger bore than the kit shocks and NO MORE UGLY BLUE

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[Spence]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Mine is only a brushed bomber (550 21T on 3s) but I do trails and flat land speed runs.

I'm running Gmade XD diaphragm shocks, kit oil (30wt?) with hard front springs and medium rear springs.
They are built with traxxas xrings and green slime.
It's super smooth, bigger bore than the kit shocks and NO MORE UGLY BLUE

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Thanks, but you most likely think stiffer foams should stop the easy tipping? I wanted to keep the hyrax 2.2" tires

[Jboucher]

Yes
Stiffer foams will help and also wider wheel hubs.

Get some weight down low, use minimal preload on the shocks and get the trailing arms and front links parallel to the ground as much as possible.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[durok]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

and NO MORE UGLY BLUE

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I knew there was a reason why we get along, my friend...

The kit-version alloy caps and adjusters are only moderately offensive (and I guess, perfect if you are a King shocks fan) - but the bottom NEON blue plastic bits that are STILL present just made me wanna hurl.

GMade XDs are sweet, and I use 'em in Bomber #1.

But I'm going to be using Traxxas Big Bores in my #2 Bomber, they'll mount up easy to the Xtreme Racing carbon fiber chassis rails.

The heavy and oversized stainless steel JEC Racing links and trailing arms do wonders for keeping my current rig upright, but it's best to keep your weight fully unsprung if possible...

Links and trailing arms are basically "half" unsprung, half sprung.

[gottorque]

I run Axial Big bore 90mm (Yeti fronts basically) on all 4 corners with the rear having the longer lower rod ends so it is like 95mm. Bumped and strapped.

I had been running 5.5 CI DW standard foams but I added the extra tuning rings from a set of 4.5 Lil Novas to fill out my 2.2 KLRs a bit. Bit less bouncy than worn out single stage foams. 350 hubs and UC Fab sway bar.

Front springs are soft 1.25lb/in HR units and something like 20 or 25wt oil (too slow, will likely switch to 3 hole piston).

In the back I use a dual rate setup with the secondary springs on top being RC4WD King medium OD springs, custom secondary nuts and firm Axial spring from the front of a Yeti TT for primary springs. Happy with the tuning in the back, it floats nicely over small bumps but still has enough spring for big stuff.


Sorry its a bit of a hodgepodge but its just what I've setup for my rig over the years lol.